Search results for: “What Dog Food For My Puppy”

  • Mia’s Big Christmas: A Dog Christmas Hamper Review

    Mia’s Big Christmas: A Dog Christmas Hamper Review

    Our pets play as important a role in our festive plans as our friends and family do, and so choosing the perfect gift can be something we spend a good amount of time thinking about. What will they like? What do they need? What will they most enjoy opening when they find their present under the tree?

    All of these things play an important factor in our decision making process and so over the next week or so Mia will be getting in the Christmas spirit reviewing some pet gift ideas. She will be casting her expert eye over the gifts and entertaining with her gallery of photographs, which may or may not feature her new sidekick, Christopher who’s not yet used to the limelight like she is.

    First up, wearing her obligatory Christmas jumper Mia has the pleasure of reviewing the Dog Christmas Hamper kindly sent into her from the team at JustRewardPetHampers.co.uk. Packed full of goodies and health treats, the hamper is priced at £49.99.

    Just Rewards Pet Hamper web

    Who are Just Reward Pet Hampers?

    Set up with the help of canine CEO, Arthur, Just Reward Luxury Pet Hampers was set up to deliver quality products direct to your door. Combining dog treats, toys and grooming products using only the best from both local and UK wide brands, the hampers are designed to stand out from the crowd.

    Mia’s Dog Christmas Hamper

    Being a big fan of anything food related, this hamper was perfect for Mia. Packed with posh quality dog treats, she took an immediate liking to home baked dog treats by the Daft Dog Bakery. Free from Gluten and made with human grade ingredients, they have no added salts or sugars.

    After Christopher woke up and taking inspiration from Mia, he landed (quite literally) in the hamper. We thought if he’s going to be involved, he has to look the part so with the bandana from the hamper suitably worn, he decided the Good Breath Rubber Dog Bone, Antler Chew and filling were all his.

    The Antler chew is naturally shed and responsibly sourced from premium Grade A Antler. The rubber bone toy should keep him occupied for hours and because it’s infused with a strong minty flavour we can say goodbye to puppy breath!

    In addition to Mia and Christopher’s favourites the hamper also included:

    • Lily’s Christmas Biscuits – 100 % natural and hand-baked, these bite-sized, heart-shaped dog biscuits are made with freshly-prepared turkey, liver, cranberries and thyme, plus a sprinkling of yummy Christmassy cinnamon which is also a wonderful anti-inflammatory that can help boost energy, circulation and brain health.
    • Lily’s Three Bird Feast – A tin of grain free Christmas dog food made with freshly prepared turkey, goose, and duck combined with parsnips, Swiss chard, carrots, cranberries, apples and thyme for an irresistible and wonderfully nourishing canine Christmas lunch.
    • Hungry Hector Turkey Delights Made with Turkey, whole Cranberries and some sage and approved by a qualified vet. The best treat for any dog without spoiling their appetite before having their delicious Three Bird Feast Christmas Dinner.
    • Dogsbody Shampoo – A mild yet deep cleaning shampoo which removes dirt and odour without stripping the coat of its essential oils, its ‘Easy Rinse’ technology keeps washing time to a minimum, and built in conditioners and Pro-Vitamin B5 help improve the health, strength and condition of the coat.

    Mia received the hamper with a bandana sized for her breed, but if you let Just Reward Pet Hampers know what size your dog is when ordering they will pick a bandana to best fit your dog.

    As a dog who has virtually everything a dog could need this hamper was perfect for Mia, she loves her yummy snacks and with more toys than she can shake a stick at, an almost fully treat filled hamper with one chewable toy and some shampoo to keep her coat as shiny as a TV hair model, this makes an ideal gift.

    Find your dog’s perfect Christmas hamper online at JustRewardPetHampers.co.uk!

  • Dog Names – What’s Popular (& What’s Insane!)

    Dog Names – What’s Popular (& What’s Insane!)

    Like Nostradamus, we’re going in to full on prediction mode here at K9 Magazine

    The annual popular dog names list is always fascinating reading, particularly in retrospect. We’ve also found some truly amazing adoptable dog names (see below).

    It’s great fun to read the previous popular dog names from years gone by, seeing old favourites such as ‘Max’, ‘Ben’ and popular female dog names like ‘Sasha’, ‘Maisy’ and ‘Trudy’ mixed in with Zeitgeist names such as ‘Ga Ga’, ‘Beyonce’ and ‘Britney’.

    puppy photo

    So what can we expect to be amongst the most popular dog names going forward over the next few years?

    Here’s our predictions.

    The Regulars (Most Popular Dog Names of Historical Prominence)

    1. Bella
    ——–
    2. Max
    ——
    3. Bailey
    ———
    4. Lucy
    ——-
    5. Molly
    ——–
    6. Buddy
    ——–
    7. Maggie
    ———
    8. Daisy
    ——–
    9. Chloe
    ——–
    10. Sophie
    ———-

    The New Entrants (Most Popular Dog Names by Trend Predictions)

    1. Lady
    2. Bieber
    3. Kim
    4. Perry
    5. Obama
    6. Shakira
    7. Rhianna
    8. Taylor
    9. Charlie
    10. Kanye

    Comparison With 2008 Most Popular Dog Names (International)

    For both dogs and cats, Max was the most popular name in 2008. Overall, VPI’s data indicates that traditional pet names, such as Fido, have taken a back seat to “people” names like Max. In fact, some of the most popular dog and cat names – Bella, Chloe, Sophie and Bailey – also rank among the Social Security Administration’s most popular baby names.
    Dogs                           Cats
    1. Max                          1. Max
    2. Bailey                        2. Chloe
    3. Bella                          3. Tigger
    4. Molly                         4. Tiger
    5. Lucy                          5. Lucy
    6. Buddy                        6. Smokey
    7. Maggie                      7. Oliver
    8. Daisy                        8. Bella
    9. Sophie                      9. Shadow
    10. Chloe                     10. Charlie

    “Pets are often viewed as members of the family, treated like members of the family and, as a result, named like members of the family,” said Curtis Steinhoff, senior director of corporate communications for VPI. “Max may sleep on his owner’s bed, eat gourmet food and wear clothes to go out on the town. Rover probably does not. Max is short, yet easy to distinguish from common commands, so it is easy to understand why it’s such a popular pet name.”

    This is the sixth consecutive year that Max is the top name for dogs and cats. Since last year’s results, the most notable increase in any name has been Bailey, which was No. 9 in 2007. Other changes in 2008 include the addition of Sophie (No. 9) and Chloe (No. 10) in place of Jake and Rocky for canine names, and Shadow (No. 9) and Charlie (No. 10) in place of Sophie and Princess for feline names. As in 2007, Max joined Lucy and Bella as names popular for both cats and dogs in 2008.

    Only 13 dogs in VPI’s database went by Fido in 2008, placing the name at No. 2,866. Rover wasn’t far behind at No. 2,534. Surprisingly, some dog names are more popular than Rover and Fido were Liebchen, Zowie, Munchie, Ginger Snap, Butchie, Dundee and Grendel. Other classic dog names that ranked low in popularity included Lassie (No. 1,572), Pluto (No. 1,009), Patch (No. 667), Spot (No. 659), Fluffy (No. 338), and Rex (No. 138).

    Besides being the most common name in 2008, Max also owned the distinction of the name with the most variations. VPI’s database includes such Max-inspired pet names as Maximum Max, Max Power, Max Avalanche, Maximus Gladius Spartacus, Minimax, Sergeant Maxwell T. Steel, Max the Moose, Max Crime Fighter, Cherokee Max, Peanut Max, T.J. Maxx, Duramax, Fatmax, Maxmax, Maxator Midnight and Mad Max McNaughty.

    Previous Most Popular Dog Names

    Move over Fido, Buddy is officially the new “top-dog” name. Today, Petfinder.com, the largest online database of adoptable pets, announced its 2011 ranking of the most popular and most unusual names, with an extra category for TV and celebrity “name-a-likes.” For the fifth year in a row, “Buddy” barks at the top as the most trending name for adoptable dogs in 2011, while “Lucy” once again proves to be the purrfect No. 1 choice for adoptable cats.

    The top five most popular names for dogs have all remained the same this year, while cats are a different story: “Smokey” and “Charlie” sniffed their way up to No. 2 and No. 4, respectively, while “Midnight” jumped down to No. 10 after coming in No. 2 for adoptable felines last year. As people everywhere swarmed the theatres and the Twilight saga continued to unfold in 2011, the popularity of the name “Bella” for both adoptable dogs and cats has remained strong since 2010.

    Previous Top 10 Most Popular Dog Names Previous Top 10 Most Popular Cat Names
    1.   Buddy (15,184) 1.   Lucy (4,195)
    2.   Max (13,810) 2.   Smokey (4,105)
    3.   Daisy (12,948) 3.   Bella (3,978)
    4.   Bella (11,773) 4.   Charlie (3,752)
    5.   Lucy (11,418) 5.   Tiger (3,735)
    6.   Molly (11,049) 6.   Oreo (3,574)
    7.   Charlie (10,607) 7.   Daisy (3,371)
    8.   Jack (9,949) 8.   Molly (3,355)
    9.   Sadie (9,232) 9.   Max (3,346)
    10. Rocky (8,475) 10. Midnight (3,273)

    Incredible/Insane/Memorable – Dog Names!

    Most Unusual Adoptable Pet Names Best Celebrity Name-A-Likes
    1.   Dodgy Wodgy Schnookum Doodle 1.   Barry Meow-nilow
    2.   Polly Picklepuss 2.   Katy Purry
    3.   Sukimayapoo 3.   Ally McBeagle
    4.   Iben Hooked 4.   Brad the Pit
    5.   Blue Sparkles McGillicutty 5.   Rascal Catts
    6.   Killer the Dog Dominating Declawed Cat 6.   Ringo Starr
    7.   Purr-etzle 7.   Cindy Clawford
    8.   Fluff Dog Millionaire 8.   Cindy Dogford
    9.   Jimmy Chews 9.   Vera Fang
    10. Ishkabibble 10. Lady Gaga

    Because they are just too cute to ignore, Petfinder.com also handpicked the most unusual, wacky and celebrity-themed names of adoptable pets for 2011 from nearly 300 submissions by shelters and rescue groups across North America. This year’s top creativity honors go to “Dodgy Wodgy Schnookum Doodle” and “Barry Meow-nilow.”

    “Everybody loves to have a Buddy, but many shelters and rescue groups give their adoptable pets creative names to help them stand out from the crowd,” says Betsy Banks Saul, co-founder of Petfinder. “Their names can give a peek into their personalities. For instance, ‘Killer the Dog Dominating Declawed Cat’ speaks for itself. But if your new cat doesn’t respond to his shelter-given name or you can’t imagine yourself hollering for ‘Polly Picklepuss’ at the dog park, never fear. Animal behaviorists tell us it’s okay to change their names. Here’s how: Add their new name to their old name for a few weeks, then gradually phase out the old one.”

    Popular Boy Puppy Names vs Popular Girl Puppy Names

    According to a pet health website’s study, here are the popular dog names for puppies….

    Boy Puppy Names

    Ace – Ace is a human moniker commonly given to dogs. Two of the most famous Aces include dog actor, Ace the Wonder Dog, and Batman’s loyal pooch, Ace the Bat-Hound.
    Aztec – Possibly named after the Aztec civilization, Aztec is not a common moniker for children, making it a unique puppy name (except for the fact that it made our list of popular boy puppy names).
    Max – Max is Latin for “greatest” and a popular baby boy name as well, making it another popular human name for “great” male puppies.
    Byron – Byron is yet another human name, possibly coming from poet Lord Byron, famous for his wildness and debauchery. Byron is a terrific puppy name for any rambunctious pup.
    A.J. – A.J. has become a popular human name in its own right, though originally the initials probably stood for something. Perhaps perfect for the puppy that is an “awesome jumper”?

    Girl Puppy Names

    Bella – Bella is French for “very pretty.” Though these days, girl puppies (and babies) named Bella are likely named after the main character from the widely popular Twilight series of books and movies.
    Abby – Short for Abigail, Abby is consistently one of the more popular girl names given to babies.
    Zoey – Meaning “life” in Greek, who wouldn’t want to name their puppy Zoey? For baby girls, the name has risen in popularity from 409th in 2000 to 47th in 2010.
    Buttons – A long-standing favorite for dog names, Buttons may come from the phrase “cute as a button.”
    Daisy – A daisy is a flower, and a name commonly given to baby girls throughout the 20th century. Daisy’s popularity briefly declined, but is again on the rise.

  • Want To Know What Your Dog Gets Up To While You’re Out?

    Want To Know What Your Dog Gets Up To While You’re Out?

    Do you want to know what your beloved pet does behind your back? Channel 5 are looking for animals to take part in ‘The Secret Life of Pets’. Whether your dog is stealing your food, your cat is disappearing all day or your hamster is acting strangely we will find out what is really going on.

    The Secret Life of Pets is an entertaining and informative brand new 8 part TV series for Channel 5. The show looks into the extraordinary and bizarre secret lives of our pets. We discover what our pets really get up to behind those puppy dog eyes, what they are hiding in the garden and how they have learnt to open the fridge door! Using the latest and most innovative filming techniques this series shows us what life is like from a pet’s-eye-view.

    To be in with a chance of getting your pet on TV please can you email me some information about your pet along with a photo of you and your pet, your contact number and address. Apply ASAP by emailing rob.myler@itn.co.uk to avoid disappointment!

    dog home photo

    Photo by MarcooJethro®

  • Is Meat Diet Good For Dogs?

    Is Meat Diet Good For Dogs?

    Meet Bluey, he was an Australian cattle dog, born June 7, 1910, who worked among sheep and cattle for 20 years, and survived until Nov. 14, 1939, when he was put down. He had lived for 29 years, five months and seven days. His secret to extraordinary longevity?

    Well, according to his owner Bluey lived on a diet of…wait for it….Kangaroos and Emus. He was the world’s oldest dog, a record that has never been beaten.

    If we were to take this discussion in a fairly linear direction a + b = c. Dogs who live on a diet of Kangaroos and Emus live until a grand old age.

    Dog_Bluey

    Of course, life (and death) is not so simple. Nor would it be so easy to get a regular supply of Kangaroo and Emu meat, but that’s by the by, the principle of Blue’s diet was meat is good.

    Are you weighing up the possibility of feeding your dog on a raw diet? Read this: Raw dog food pros and cons.

    Dogs like Bluey might be the exception in terms of the type of meat that makes up the largest proportion of their daily diet, but dogs around the world tend to live on meat and enjoy doing so. Cartoonists have been depicting dogs chasing a string of butcher’s sausages for generations.

    So why is it that according to the Butcher’s Healthy Happy Hound report that only 14% of dogs are being given a solus meaty dog food diet on a daily basis, while twice as many owners (29%) say they actually think their dog prefers it?

    Fit as a Butcher's dog

    Let’s tackle some of the more common questions, starting with the big one: Is a meat diet good for dogs?

    A: Most definitely, and there is no upper limit to the amount of protein a dog should eat.

    Although dogs have evolved over the years to take up firm positioning as one of the family, dogs are essentially at their core still carnivores and have the same dietary requirements as their ancestors.

    To ensure they get the right nutrients a dog’s diet must contain the right amount of protein, fat, vitamins and minerals.

    A wild dog would typically eat up to 90% meat with small amounts of fish and eggs, in addition to 10% of grasses, berries, nuts and vegetation.

    Is a meat diet good for dogs

    There are three factors that determine protein quality:

    1) Protein source – animal protein or plant & cereal protein
    2) Amino acid content – amino acids are the building blocks of protein, these blocks determine the quality of the protein
    3) Digestibility of the protein content

    Animal proteins are more ‘complete proteins’ because they contain all the essential amino acids required whereas plant and cereal proteins lack one or more of the essential amino acids and are therefore considered ‘incomplete’. Animal proteins are also more digestible than plant and cereal proteins, hence animal proteins have a higher bio-availability.

    It is important that all essential amino acids are present, if an essential amino acid is missing or there is not the correct level/amount, then protein metabolism stops. Protein is vital for cell maintenance and growth and for dogs can also provide most of their energy requirements.

    Food such as Butcher’s complete foods are developed to meet all nutritional requirements a dog needs in a highly palatable meaty recipe.

    A high quality complete diet will give dogs all the essential vitamins and minerals to the need to keep them happy and healthy, lean and fit with everything they need to maintain a healthy, active lifestyle.

    Brought To You By Fit & Fun Dog Month 2013

    Fit & Fun Dog Month sponsored by Butchers Lean & Tasty

    ‘Keep as Fit as a Butcher’s Dog’

    You may now be thinking: will my dog’s miss out on other things, like carbohydrates if they eat a solely meat based diet?

    By choosing a good quality complete meat based diet your dog will be getting all they need.

    Remember, our dogs bodies are made for meat.

    Dogs have a short digestive tract not suitable to digesting a high carbohydrate diet and their mouths have sharp teeth and strong jaws designed for ripping and shredding not grinding grains and vegetation.

    Meat is packed full of the goodness needed to ensure their coats stay healthy, eyes bright and that they have enough energy to go about their day, their strong acidic stomach will help break the meat down ensuring they get all they need.

    Dogs naturally need meat as part of a balanced diet – if you were to give your dog a choice, what would they choose?

    That isn’t to say your dog won’t enjoy the occasional treat and that given the chance to scavenge and serve themselves as if the home were their own self-service buffet they would allow the opportunity to pass.

    Dogs in the wild were hunters and scavengers which explains why they think food left out in our homes seems fair game to them. Not only will our dogs consume everything that drops on the floor, given the chance they will rifle through dustbins, and given the opportunity take it straight from a plate. After all, if you have ever fed your pet from the dinner table they will forever believe that they are entitled to it at any mealtime.

    But too many treats outside of their diet can lead to body condition and weight problems and potentially even cause medical issues.

    The advantages of choosing a naturally meaty dog food diet are many. Health and longevity are increased and the diet can be tailored to individual needs.

    Maybe old Bluey really was on to something, eh?

    Butcher’s Lean & Tasty meaty complete meals with 30% less fat is a more natural dog food, as are all of the Butcher’s products, because they contain no artificial colours, flavours or preservatives.

    Butchers-Lean-and-Tasty-dog-food-pack

    Visit the Butcher’s Pet Care website and use the tool to find the right food for your dog – butcherspetcare.co.uk

  • Why Do Dogs Kill People?

    Why Do Dogs Kill People?

    As always, there is a lot of discussion about how we can introduce laws to tackle the problem of dangerous dogs. It’s a heated debate often grounded in media hype, misguided prejudices and emotion, writes K9 Magazine’s editor Ryan O’Meara.

    Rather than make kneejerk decisions on what we THINK we might know about serious and fatal dog attacks we should be prepared to focus on what we DO actually know. Agreed?

    What we know should ALWAYS be the basis for what we do, rather than taking action based on what we THINK we know, particularly when it comes to legislation that has enormous consequences for decades to come.

    Here’s why.

    What we *think* we know is that there are certain ‘types’ of dog owners who have certain *types* of dogs that are the source of the UK’s dangerous dogs problem.

    Hoodies? Status dogs? Weapon dogs? Street gangs? Drug dealers?

    Well, that’s what some – ill informed, misguided types – *think* we know. Are they a problem? Absolutely. But we can categorise them a lot easier if we just accept this – a bad dog owner is a bad dog owner not because of who they are, what they look like or what they do for a living, but because of how they treat, train and use their dogs. Nothing else.

    If a dog is trained to protect a drug dealer, he’s a guard dog. So if all dogs that have been encouraged to guard their owners/families are now to be categorised as ‘weapon’ dogs then we have a lot of weapon dogs in the UK.

    Here’s an idea. If someone is a drug dealer, they’re a criminal. Get them off the streets. If someone is out terrorising members of the public or fellow criminals with a ‘weapon’ dog, here’s an idea – they’re ALREADY breaking the law. Get them off the streets.

    So, what DO we know?

    Take a look:

    Cadey-Lee Deacon: Killed at her grandparent’s home by two dogs (Rottweilers) when the dog’s owner was not present. The death took place at the home where the dog’s lived. The family home.

    Ellie Lawrenson: Killed at her grandmother’s home while under the supervision of her grandmother. The dog’s (Pit Bull) owner was not present at the time of the attack. The attack took place at the place where the dog lived. The family home.

    Archie-Lee Hirst: Killed at his grandparent’s home while under the supervision of someone who was not the dog’s (Rottweiler) owner. The attack took place at the dog’s home, the family home, in the yard outside but the dog’s owner was not present at the time of the fatal attack.

    Jaden Mack: Killed at his grandmother’s home whilst his grandmother (the dog’s owner) fell asleep, giving the dogs (Staffordshire Bull Terrier and Jack Russell Terrier) unrestricted access to the child who himself had been left on a table. The fatal attack took place at the dog’s (family) home whilst, in the same building, the dog’s owner was not physically present at the time of the attack (as she was sleeping).

    John Paul Massey was killed by his uncle’s dog (Pit Bull) whilst in the care of his grandmother. The attack took place at the family home, the place where the dog lived. The dog’s owner was not present at the time of the attack.

    18-month old Zumer Ahmed girl lost her life to a dog (American Bulldog) that belonged to her Uncle. The dog’s owner was not present at the time of the attack which took place in the family home where the dog lived.

    On 26th of March 2013, 14-year old Jade Anderson lost her life. She was found deceased following an attack by what is thought to be four dogs. The dogs owner was not present at the time of the attack.

    There are more cases like this, not just in the UK.

    Breeds involved:

    Rottweiler (x2 in Cadey Lee Deacon’s case, 1 in Archie Lee Hirst)

    Pit Bull – Ellie Lawrenson / John Paul Massey

    Staffordshire Bull Terrier and Jack Russell Terrier – Jaden Mack

    Staffordshire Bull Terrier and Bull Mastiff – Jade Anderson

    American Bulldog

    So, 7 fatal dog attacks and 7 remarkably similar circumstances – attacks ALL happened at the location where the dog lived (dog’s family home) and in ALL cases the owner of the dog was NOT present at the time of the attack taking place.

    These are the facts.

    It’s not ‘status dogs’ or ‘hoodies’ or any one particular breed of dog that is responsible for killing people. It’s a lack of awareness about how dogs behave, think and react in particular circumstances. Family dogs in family homes are responsible for these 7 fatal dog attacks.

    I’ll briefly touch on something from personal experience.

    I have two dogs. One of those dogs gets very stressed (and I use the word advisedly) when either myself or my wife leaves the house, even for a short time. If we both leave, she settles down quickly and understands the routine involved, but if ONE of us leaves, she gets agitated, runs from room to room, stares out of the windows, paws at the doors and gets herself in to a generally unhappy state. No amount of consoling or attempts to distract her will do the trick until the family is all back together as one unit. Interestingly, my other dog does not do this. She is calm and balanced and doesn’t seem to care when people come and go, whether it’s me or my wife.

    All dogs have their own individual personalities.

    Forget breed traits for a moment (and please don’t think for a second that I am ignoring the importance of genetics and breeding in what makes a particular dog tick) and think about this: regardless of who the dog’s parents and grandparents happen to be, their individual personality is shaped by a hugely diverse spectrum of other, environmental factors.

    My Labrador and my Rottweiler have been given very, very (almost identical) upbringings – yet one of my dogs gets incredibly agitated when either myself or my wife leaves the home and the other doesn’t care. One of my dogs is particularly fond of meeting children, one is indifferent to them. One of my dogs welcomes people who visit my home wearing a uniform with a wagging tail, the other wants to send them packing.

    If you were to ask me whether I thought it’d be OK for me (or my wife) to go out and leave my dogs in the care of someone who wasn’t their owner whilst children would be present, I’d say no. Conclusively no. No. No. Not happening. No.

    I’m NOT being wise after the event. I’m not being a smart Alec.

    Do I ‘trust’ my dogs?

    No! Of course I don’t. They’re dogs. I especially don’t ‘trust’ my dogs if I’m not even there. Placing trust in one’s dog to not eat a sausage during a training exercise is fine. Trusting a dog to behave EXACTLY how you think it’ll behave when you’re not there, isn’t. There’s no real upside to such a bet. The upside, if there is one, is; nothing bad happens. The potential downside…doesn’t bear thinking about.

    Think about this; have you ever been to someone’s home where there’s a dog and the dog’s owner is not there? The person who feeds the dog, trains the dog, can CONTROL the dog is away and the dog’s been left with someone who, whilst they may know the dog, doesn’t really have the same connection with it as the owner? I have. And it can be quite an interesting experience. A dog that spends a few hours ‘acting up’ or being naughty/aggressive/unruly/unpleasant to be around suddenly turns in to soppy, obedient puppy the minute they’re reunited with their master.

    I’ll relate a true story about the most dangerous dog I’ve ever encountered.

    My (now) wife worked at a quarantine kennels for a while. I worked at kennels in the next county as a dog trainer. We were both experienced working in kennels and, as anyone who’s worked in kennels will know, you get to see ALL elements of canine behaviour. Dogs are placed in a different setting and their owners removed from the environment and it’s then that you get to see which dogs are happy to be without their owners but perhaps get upset at being in a strange, funny smelling, noisy environment.

    You get to see which dogs just pine and pine for their missing friends. You get to see which dogs have been well trained and, despite not being happy, will still comply with commands even from a stranger. You get to see which dogs are perfectly friendly but have clearly never been taught a basic command in their lives. You get to see which dogs absolutely LOVE being in such a dog-filled environment and don’t seem to give two hoots about their owners not being there. You get to see other people’s dogs behaving in all manners of ways.

    In all of this, I can safely say the type of BREED happens to be utterly, utterly irrelevant in relation to how the dog reacts to this environment. No two Dobermans act the same, no two German Shepherds react the same way and you’ll find you’re just as likely to get a bite from a Labrador or a Border Collie as you are from a Rottweiler or a Bull breed.

    The most dangerous dog I EVER encountered was, as it happens, a Border Collie.

    My (now) wife called me to let me know that a dog had come in the quarantine kennels but he was actually a boarder rather than a quarantined dog.

    She told me the dog was launching itself at kennel staff from his kennel and that nobody had been able to get close to entering his kennel. (Bear in mind, these are experienced kennel staff, used to working with many different dogs in a quarantine environment).

    I was asked whether I could come over and take a look at the dog and see if I could get in to his kennel and calm him down and get him to be a bit happier and a little less bitey.

    A Border Collie? I thought. How bad can it be?

    Jumping at the chance to act the hero, I drove over and went to see the dog.

    Firstly, this was the largest Border Collie I’ve ever seen. He was (intact male) easily bigger than the Rottweiler I currently own. He was big and he was very, very (VERY) hostile.

    Just walking up to his kennel, he flung himself to the front, made himself big and gave a display that could not be mistaken for anything other than extreme territorial aggression.

    He was in a confined space and he wanted everyone to know that, if you entered it, he’d be willing to bite. Not just nip and retreat, bite, bite and bite some more. To say he meant business would be an understatement.

    I spent a lot of time trying all manner of approaches. I tried the friendly approach. The food through the kennel approach. The pick a ball up and see if that interested him approach. The submissive approach. The assertive approach. The downright hostile approach. I tried everything I knew – and I have worked with a number of rehabilitation case dogs who were very aggressive – but absolutely nothing worked. This was a dog that would not be subdued, at all.

    I admitted I couldn’t really help in terms of getting close with the dog and advised that, for the duration of his short stay at the kennels, the staff would be best advised to use the built in, sliding kennel partition so as to ensure the dog was never allowed to come in to contact with a person.

    I’ve worked with more than 2,000 dogs and would like to think I have a reasonably fair ability at calling a dog’s personality. I’ll confidently go on record and say that I believe this dog had the capacity to kill. He REALLY meant business.

    But here’s where the story reaches its point.

    When that dog’s owner came to collect him, he turned in to the soppiest, most playful, friendly dog you could ever wish to meet. He just melted. His tail wagged, his ears set back, his hostile “I’ll kill you if you so much as come within an inch of my kennel” personality just dissolved. As fast as that. The SECOND his owner came for him, he changed.

    Was he a dangerous dog?

    Well, I think I already called that. He WAS the most dangerous dog I ever met. Ever. UNTIL his owner turned up, whereupon he instantly became a different dog. His personality changed like the flick of a switch.

    Did he have the capacity to attack and seriously injure (possibly kill) someone? I have absolutely NO doubt that he did. But again, there’s a caveat – he became a snarling, hostile dog when his owner was not there and he found himself confronted by people he didn’t know. WHEN his owner was there, he’d lie on his back to have his belly tickled by all. What a nice dog, you’d think. But a more accurate way of putting it would be; what a nice, friendly dog (when his owner’s around), what a completely unhinged, dangerous creature (when his owner wasn’t about).

    We’ve lost 6 children in under 5 years to dog attack in the UK. We must all agree, that’s 6 too many.

    In ALL cases, circumstance was far, far more pertinent than the ‘type’ of owner or even the ‘type’ of dog.

    What is missing is education and awareness. A distinct lack of understanding as to the risks associated with unattended dogs, children and an owner not present.

    Whilst we have constant debates about so-called ‘status dogs’ and trying to define a breed as being dangerous based entirely on what that breed happens to look like or who its parents were, we can – tragically – expect more of the same. More deaths, more ignorance – and that’s ignorance condoned by the Government.

    As a nation, we must surely accept that we would ALL be better off if dog owners were more dog aware.

    Not *some* owners. Not certain *types* of owners or owners of certain *types* of dogs, all dog owners. If all dog owners knew more about dogs and what makes dogs dogs, we’d benefit. All of us. Dog owner or not.

    What we have here is a people problem, not a dog problem. People who are not fully aware of how dogs brains work.

    Dogs CAN grow up with children and be an exceptionally positive influence on youngsters, but a simple lack of awareness about what circumstances can lead to tragedies as a result of dogs doing what dogs are capable of doing is what’s costing youngsters their very existence on this planet and it is wrong. Wrong, wrong, wrong.

    Our current law doesn’t work.

    The question is, will the Government be intelligent enough to recognise that fiddling around the edges of a bad law will not provide the answers we need? That focussing on ‘types’ of owners or dogs won’t prevent deaths? Or that the problem of ‘killer’ dogs is by no means confined to the mean streets of the UK, but – in fact – is most likely to manifest itself in a family home with a family dog, being cared for by grandma whilst the dog owner happens to be somewhere else.

    This isn’t what we *think* might be true. This is what we KNOW to be true.

    It’s time for the Government to come clean on the DEFRA consultation and acknowledge what the RSPCA have confirmed; that they’ve already made their mind up regarding key aspects of dangerous dogs legislation.

    No breed bans.
    No BSL.
    No BS!

    Education is the answer.

  • Dog Attacks -Why Blaming Breeds is Missing The Point

    Dog Attacks -Why Blaming Breeds is Missing The Point

    Dog bites are, in the main, avoidable and a better understanding of dog body language can help us get somewhere near to understanding the reasons and motivations for dog bites and serious dog attacks.

    Before we begin though, let’s ask – and try to answer – the question of whether dog bites are a breed specific problem.

    Dog Bites: A Breed Specific Problem?

    Across dog walking hot spots you will find a mixture of breeds, shapes, and sizes, often allowed to roam around off their leads in the open spaces.

    It can be very intimidating when a big, strong, dog approaches you and after a rise in the number of attacks by the popular pet, many people are calling for new measures to make sure that dogs are kept on leads. But are dogs being given a bad reputation unfairly?

    I myself am terrified if a large dog comes up to me as I walk my Collie cross on open fields near my home. However this never used to be the case.

    Around four years ago my family bought home a young male Weimaraner from the local dog’s home. At first everything was fine but after a few weeks things turned nasty. He went on to bite three members of the family, including me, meaning that we sadly had to send him back to the dog’s home.

    It was especially heartbreaking, as 99% of the time he was a normal, loving dog. Something seemed to snap in his mind, he’d have five minutes of savageness then return to being nice and look up at you with his soppy sad eyes. In my opinion this could only be put down to how he was brought up. The same as if a human was treated badly it could have effects later on in their lives and on their mental state.

    Despite how much I loved him and felt sorry for him it is the reason why I would never be able to trust a big, strong dog again. Just in case. I still hold the scars from his attack, and know that to have a dog’s jaw clenched around you is one of the most terrifying things that I have ever experienced.

    The argument for keeping dog’s on a lead is simple. A dog can turn nasty at any time, and recent reports of family pets turning on children is a clear example of this. When I am out walking my dog not only am I in fear for myself but also for my dog, as she is small, not big built, and would not stand a chance if attacked by a big dog, an increasingly likely event in today’s society in which many dogs are bread to attack.

    One breed in particular that has developed a bad reputation is the Staffordshire Bull Terrier. At all the local dogs homes inside almost every kennel is a dog of this breed or a Staffordshire Bull Terrier cross, with the amount of Rottweilers not far behind.

    Voluntary group and registered charity, Animal Lifeline, based in Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire has saved over 10,000 dogs since it was founded over thirty years ago. The group never puts a dog down and always has at least 100 dogs in its kennels waiting to be re-homed.

    Nick Fletcher from the centre explains why he thinks so many of these breeds get brought in: “We get all types of dogs in though there is a higher proportion of Staffies than there used to be. This is because the Staffy has become a fashion accessory for many young people, mainly young men. They then find that either the dog isn’t as fierce as they thought, and want to get rid of it, or their circumstances change, particularly if they have a partner. Young couples often have a dog until they have a baby, then they want to dump the dog. Also, many couples split up after a while and return to parents or go into rented accommodation, where they cannot keep a dog.”

    It seems that like with a lot of things in today’s world looks are more important than the dog’s behaviour.

    Nick added: “People often select a dog because of its looks, so smaller prettier dogs are always the first to be homed. Lovely dogs with nice temperaments are often ignored and remain in kennels for months just because they are plain in appearance.”

    It can be easily seen why these people think they look tough with one of these dogs when they are basically being used as a weapon. Some dogs go on to be re-homed and make loving family pets but others will never find a home ever again because of their vicious mentality from their upbringing.

    Despite their bad reputation, created through the media, Staffordshire Bull Terriers are in fact known as a trustworthy animal and sometimes referred to as the ‘Nanny Dog’ for their great affection towards children. Owners of so called ‘status dogs’ believe the facts and figures used in today’s news stories about dog attacks are unfair as the majority of attacks by smaller breeds go unreported.

    Daniel Berrisford, from Stoke-on-Trent, has owned two Staffordshire Bull Terriers and agrees that the negative press towards the breed is unfair.

    “I think the Staffordshire Bull Terrier is the same as any other dog; it all depends on how you bring them up as to how they turn out. If you bring a Staffy up to fight then they have the mentality to fight, however if you bring a Staffy up as a loving house dog that is what they will become. Both of the Staffies that I have had would not hurt anyone and I believe it is because they were brought up like that. I think that if you bring them up in the right way you will not find a more loyal and loving dog.

    “Some owners only have a Staffy or other strong dogs because they want to bring it up to fight and attack but I think that you could find any breed that has attacked somebody, so for a Staffy to have a particularly bad reputation is ridiculous.

    “Little dogs often come up to larger dogs and go to attack them, even if they are on a lead but because the bigger dog retaliates and can do more damage they get the blame. Smaller dogs should be kept on a lead just the same because they can cause just as much trouble.”

    The truth is that no dog should be branded a vicious breed when the victims of most attacks do not recognise the exact breed so stick to what they know, and certain dogs get the blame, the reason why there are no real statistics for dog attacks in this country.

    It is also difficult to distinguish what actually is an ‘attack’. A recent incident in my area occurred in which the police were involved as a dog had knocked somebody over and ripped a coat. A total accident in which the dog was playing, but accused of a vicious attack just for being a big animal.

    The truth is that however much the media tries to scare people about our favourite furry friends, the increase in ‘attacks’ has not risen that much and that dog attacks and collisions involving children have actually declined by approximately 18% over the last 10 years.

    With a UK dog population of around eight million, it is an issue that cannot be ignored. Measures need to be brought in to deal with the irresponsible owners who are giving all dogs a bad name, and to protect the public from them so that we can feel safe around the nation’s most popular pet again.

    K9 Magazine editor Ryan O’Meara outlines his thesis for our misunderstanding of canine behaviour, body language and intentions as a primary motivating factor in our failure to spot the warning signs of dog aggression.

    Understanding Canine Aggression

    In this report, you will learn about:

    Understanding errors of interpretation
    Understanding motives for aggressive behaviour
    Understanding how to minimise risk

    Summary:
    Misinterpretation of canine signals, body language and emotions due to anthropomorphic tendencies.

    Why do humans feel the need to attribute human qualities to animals in order to better understand or accept them?

    What emotions do dogs have? What we happen to presume about what dogs think is, by definition, open to interpretation and in reality unless dogs learn to talk we shall never actually know what dogs think, although we can, will and should speculate. Dogs dream, we therefore conclude they have ‘imagination’ what they dream about, we do not know. As much as we may not like to admit it, we understand dogs a lot less than we realise.

    Can dogs have a social conscience? If not they can’t possibly understand or display emotions such as guilt, shame, jealousy etc – all of which are traits often attributed to dogs in an increasingly anthropomorphic society which is conditioned to believe everything from gloved Disney mice to the socially conscious tales of Lassie. It’s little wonder we grew up with such a distorted view of animal emotions, motives and drives.

    It is my finding, having studied many dogs of different breeds in different environments that, whilst dogs are exceptionally responsive to our own emotions and body language, their own emotional spectrum is significantly different. This can be best addressed by asking the simple question; Does my dog really love me?

    Does My Dog Love Me?

    Considering how complex it is for us to understand such a powerful and misunderstood concept in humans, who have the power of speech and the written word to explain themselves, it is surprising how many of us assume that our dogs love us, love being with us and show loyalty to us for reasons equitable to those of a fellow human.

    The most probable answer is dogs do not ‘love us’ in the sense that we love them. They are hard-wired to appease us, to fit in with us and to display behaviours which suit us and our needs – it is the fact that we love them for this which often mistranslates as them performing these behaviours because they love us back.

    It is my view that canine emotions are expressed in basic forms. They may display many variations of these basic emotions. A dog can be fearful – and this can often be misinterpreted as guilt or shame. A dog may be fearful of losing rank, status or a tried and tested route to food – and this can often me misinterpreted as jealousy or envy of other dogs or people – it is still a demonstration of a variant of basic fear behaviour.

    It is us who attribute our social values and emotional structure to dogs in order to try and make them easier to understand. It is the dog’s unique ability to allow us to believe this that has to be part responsible for their successful relationship with man. The dog will be, whatever we want him to be. This is an error in translation.

    After all, if we were truly looking for a companion animal whose emotions were closely linked to our own, surely we would have domesticated the apes and we would now be talking about man’s best friend as a small, domesticated monkey. After all they have many of the same skills that dogs have, they are superior in intelligence, dexterity and trainability.

    Could it be that the reason dogs have slotted their paws so firmly under the table of man is because we can attribute any emotion they display as we please? If we say it, we can believe it to be true – with a dog – but with an ape, perhaps it is the fact that they ARE so much like us that it is harder for us to enjoy such a mutually fulfilling relationship with them?

    The dog, for want of a better description, will be anything we want him to be. They will play the role of court jester or funeral mourner, if they think it’s what we want. Perhaps it is this for reason alone that they have become the most successful socially domesticated animals on the planet. It is also possibly the reason why the more we think we know about them, the more we are kidding ourselves.

    The dog is, in my opinion, a still largely misunderstood animal. We control their environment, their diet, their stimulation, their entire lives – it’s little wonder they feel compelled to ‘love’ us.

    The perception problem: Dogs see our world from a different perspective. We can look at the same object or experience the same situations but our and their perception of both can be entirely different. There are various reasons for this. To understand what it is to see the world through the eyes of a dog we need to first accept the physical differences.

    They spend their lives between putting their nose to the ground and their eyes gazing upwards. For a dog, life is not conducted at eye level (like us) it is a story happening underfoot and events happen from way on high above. This very fact alone gives us a sense of different the world appears to a dog.

    We fail to acknowledge such a fundamental difference in perspective at our own peril. Understanding and accepting this literal matter of fact helps us to try and see things from the dog’s perspective. In the world of the dog, people are most often regarded as friends or are observed as neutral, non threatening animals. However, not all dogs share this view of all people and it is an extremely serious error for any person to assume it.

    Motives for aggression in dogs can vary and are dependent on a number of key factors.

    Genetics / breeding
    Social development in key life-stages
    Environmental factors
    Behavioural conditioning / reinforcement
    Perspective problems / misjudging situations
    Misdirection of drives

    A dog’s genetic make-up and breeding is a factor too often overlooked in instances where the less ‘extreme’ purpose bred dogs are concerned. A relative novice is inclined toward understanding that a Siberian Husky will not make an ideal pet for an owner who leads a largely urban lifestyle with little or no opportunity to provide regular opportunities for mental and physical stimulation.

    However where the edges begin to blur are with breeds (or cross breeds where breeding is unknown) which can often present an image which entices novice owners toward them without properly understanding the very specific lifestyle requirements the dog is likely to demand.

    It is the case in my experience that there are many dogs produced by people who do not have sufficient skills, experience or desire to fully comprehend the importance of identifying the suitability of the people they are supplying dogs to. Similarly, many dogs are bred with little or no attention paid to the quality of temperament within their breeding stock. Hence there is a perpetual problem – in select numbers – where unsuitable breeders supply unsuitable dogs to unsuitable new owners. Addressing this issue within the structure of existing UK legislation is not possible.

    Coming back to the central theme of under-prepared dog owners, failure to place significant emphasis or attention on the key life-stage development of dogs is a monumental failing.

    A Dog’s Key Life-Stage Phases:

    Aged between 6 and 16 weeks (extremely important)
    Aged between 16 weeks and 6 months (important)
    Aged between 6 months and 14 months (VITAL!)

    The average day of the average dog is spent waiting for stimulation or events which can break up the monotony of the dog’s normal routine. In some dogs, attempts to stimulate themselves or indeed relieve boredom can manifest in displays of destruction or even aggression. An owner’s failure to properly recognise the signs of problem behaviour, especially displays of aggression – even as a puppy – can encourage the dog to condition itself to responding to certain environmental events with aggression. Small, relatively unimportant events can spark an extreme response in a dog where inappropriate behaviour is left unchecked.

    Aggressive behaviours can be the result of misdirected drives.

    Example Scenario:
    A young dog – for the purpose of this example we shall say a West Highland Terrier – develops a habit of getting excited at 4.00pm each week day when the school children walk by on their way home.

    His initial response is curiosity as a result of what he sees an exciting visual stimulus in his otherwise relatively stimulation-free day. On some occasions the children notice the attention the dog is giving them and they tease him. His response is to bark and jump up at the front door.

    Over time this conditioned behaviour worsens. Each day he starts to bark, jump and claw at the door as soon as he sees any children in school uniform walking past. His owner’s response to this behaviour is to shout at him as and when he starts barking and jumping up at the door. His owner doesn’t re-direct the behaviour or address it in any other way other than to occasionally shout. Eventually the inevitable happens and the dog manages to escape through the front door when a visitor is leaving the house. He runs out in to the street and bites the first school child he reaches. His owner insists he has never done anything like this before (failing to recognise he had never had the chance before).

    This scenario above is a simple example of how behaviour left unchecked can result in an actual attack. The dog has displayed a clear misdirection of an intense prey drive which was initially piqued as a result of an unstimulated lifestyle and escalated as a result of both the uncontrollable element of the children who teased him but exacerbated by his owner’s shouting in response to his barking, which the dog reads as either a reward for his behaviour or sees it as his owner ‘joining in’ with his behaviour.

    The problem is confounded as the dog’s owner has failed to grasp the dog’s perspective of what is happening at 4.00pm each day – whilst his owner sees the behaviour as the dog just letting off some steam for 5 minutes per day, the dog’s perspective of the situation is far more serious – he is seeing the school children is prey items which should be pursued vigorously. The dog’s owner has not recognised the ‘value’ placed on the school children by the dog.

    The example scenario shows a failure to provide the dog with sufficient daily stimulation, a fundamental misinterpretation of the dog’s emotions (believing him to be ‘letting off steam’), a perspective problem (not recognising how the dog is viewing the school children) and a failure to re-direct a very prominent prey drive behaviour, resulting in a completely avoidable dog attack.

    Aggressive behaviour should always, without any exception, be referred to professionals starting with an assessment by a veterinarian to check that there is no medical issue causing the dog’s behaviour.

    The key to educating the public about aggressive behaviours in dogs is to impress on dog owners the need for the following:

    Initially be aware of how to identify a responsible, high quality dog breeder or rescue shelter
    Learn to understand canine emotions and body language. Avoid anthropomorphic errors.
    Be aware of the importance of critical key-life stages in the dog’s development
    Understand and implement bite inhibition techniques early and maintain them
    Provide sufficient stimulation and recognise the role environmental conditioning plays
    Understand canine drives and redirect undesirable behaviour as soon as it manifests

    In simple terms:

    Learn to understand the dog, don’t assume. Provide exercise and stimulation appropriate to the breed and the dog’s individual personality. Learn to recognise misdirected drive. In even simpler terms: dog bites and dog aggression are not breed specific, they are dog (and owner) specific. Dogs are the product of their genetics, upbringing and environment. Irresponsible supply of dogs is a major contributory factor as is the continuing failure to properly understand how dogs think, why they behave as they do and, more crucially, a failure to spot early warning signs of aggression or, more unforgivably, a failure to take appropriate action as and when a dog does show signs of aggression. Risk assessment is often poor in cases of serious dog attacks on children. Owners often misplace trust in their pets when they have no good reason to, particularly if a dog has never been exposed to certain scenarios in the past (e.g. young children visiting the home of a dog who is not used to them).

    Dog bites and dog attacks can be largely avoided. Breed bans have been a monumental failure to address the problem of serious and fatal attacks and serve as an ongoing reminder that it’s not just dog owners who misunderstand the primary causes of dog bites, legislators are as guilty of this and that, quite frankly, is unacceptable. If we really want to understand and reduce dog bites, we have to do more to better understand our dogs, properly train them and put ourselves in a position to understand and mitigate risk factors.

    © Ryan O’Meara. All rights reserved.
    You may re-distribute this white paper
    provided all credits and attributions are maintained.

  • How to Avoid Dog Health Problems

    We all love our dogs and want to do the best for them. You can give them all the love, attention and affection in the world but you also need to be aware of your pet’s health, so you can give them a longer, happier and healthier life.

    From the day we bring our new puppy home, there are some key areas to look out for to help keep your dog healthy and enjoying life to the full:

    Dog Health Problems Start From The Inside

    · Diet: Providing the right food for their breed, size and age is vital. Making sure they get all the right nutrients – whilst not over or under feeding.

    A large dog, such as a Great Dane, has different dietary needs to that of a Chihuahua, so some food brands even offer tailormade diets.

    Dog Health Symptoms: Is Your Dog’s Weight A Cause For Concern?

    · Exercise: You should be making sure they get enough exercise to keep them fit and active for as long as possible – dog walking can work to your benefit too!

    · Vet visits: You should make sure they get regular health checks and injections with your local vet – as you would with your doctor – to prevent illness occurring and catch problems before they become threatening.

    So how do you check if your dog is healthy?

    This article discuss about the best cbd oil for dogs with arthritis and takes you through a ten-point health check that you can easily undertake at home. It works just as well on cats as it does dogs and I’ve called it the DIY MOT health check. You can monitor your pets’ health in-between regular visits to your vet, which will help alert you to any problem areas.

    Eyes

    Should be clear and sparkling without any discharge or redness, as this could be a sign of infection. The eyelids should also be checked for warts or cysts. Diet can also have an impact on eye health, if you have concerns, consider switching your dog’s food.

    Teeth & gums

    Gently lift your pet’s lips – the gums should be salmon pink, don’t worry some dogs can have naturally black pigmented gums, teeth should be clean and white with no yellow plaque or tartar and there should not be a bad smell!

    Look out for loose teeth or bleeding gums, which should also be taken care of by your vet.

    Paws

    Check the pads for open cuts, splinters or seeds which can become embedded. Nails should be short and healthy looking without splitting. Some dogs will need to have nails regularly clipped at the vet.

    Body checks

    Check for any lumps or wounds by running your hands over your dog’s body and part the hair to check for signs of fleas or ticks. Your vet can recommend suitable treatments. Check a dog’s testicles and bitch’s mammary glands for any unusual swellings.

    Weight

    Be aware of what weight your dog should be and monitor it carefully – overfeeding can be as damaging as underfeeding. As a general rule run your hands down the sides of your dog’s belly and you should be able to feel the rib cage.

    By feeling the rib cage you should be able to tell if they are under, over or just right! If your pet seems overweight check with your vet, they may recommend a light food, which has fewer calories or you might consider a different type of a dog bowl which steadies how fast your dog eats his food.

    There are some which are floor bowls, which look similar to a puzzle, and dogs navigate the ‘spikes’ to eat. Or a raised dog bowl which can either sit in a dog bowl stand or be wall mounted alters how your dog eats, and can also slow them down.

    Obesity can contribute to heart disease, joint disease, diabetes and many more health complications. As in humans exercise also plays an important part in weight control. Make sure your dog is getting plenty of exercise. Walks are the easy answer. Large dogs don’t necessarily need more exercise; it really does depend on their breed and age.

    Ears

    The inside of your dog’s ears should be clean with no odour. If they do smell this could be a sign that they are infected. Ears should be cleaned regularly – ask your vet to recommend a cleaning product and just as importantly, the best way to clean them without damage.

    Muzzle

    The nose should be free of discharge – pets get colds too. Noses should be wet but not runny, a dry nose could also signal health problems.

    Coat and skin

    The coat should look glossy and feel tangle free, not dull. Look out for any balding or irritation which could be caused by allergies, mange etc and should be checked out by a vet for treatment. The skin should not feel greasy or look flaky (no dandruff).

    If you have concerns that your dog’s dull coat or flaky skin may be caused by an allergy, speak with your vet. If you are concerned that it may be parasite related, seek out a good flea treatment for dogs to restore.

    Energy

    Dependent on its age, your dog should be alert and energetic without any signs of stiffness or breathlessness – any reluctance to exercise should be looked into. Feeding the right amount of food and nutrients to your pet helps make sure they maintain high energy levels even into old age.

    Under the tail

    Hold up the tail and see if there are any signs of soreness or discharge. Also check your dog’s stools, they should be firm and fairly small – this is a sign of healthy digestion.

    Stools are a good way of determining your pet’s health, a sudden change can bring your attention to a health issue that might have gone unnoticed. It is also the way your animal gets rid of all the waste in his food that he doesn’t need. Lots of products are bulked up with water and cereals when one of the most important ingredients to carnivorous animals is protein – that means meat.

    A good rule of thumb is: the more meat ingredients a food contains the higher the quality of the feed, look on the side of the bag where the ingredients are listed, manufacturers have to list the largest quantity first.

    What are the benefits of dry over wet food?

    Once you’ve determined your dog’s life stage and lifestyle needs, you need to decide whether to feed dry or wet (canned) food.

    It’s important to remember that while dry food can be left in a bowl, wet food should not be left out all day if not consumed. Therefore, dry food can often be the most convenient choice for busy people.

    Although a recent BBC report suggested that brushing is the best way to keep a dog’s teeth clean, dry foods also promote good oral hygiene for teeth and gums through abrasive action.

    How do I switch my dog’s food?

    If you are looking to change your dog’s diet we would recommend you introduce the new food gradually over a period of 4 days.

    Make the change slowly, try mixing of the new food with of old food then gradually change the proportions over the next three days until he’s eating new food. There are also a few tricks you could use to help make the change over to a complete dry food– for example, start by adding a little water or by warming the food in the microwave.

    Vet visits

    Remember that although you can monitor your pet’s health at home using the above guidelines I would also strongly recommend you make regular check-ups appointments with your local vet even if your pet seems healthy. And if this article has alerted you to any health issues please do contact your vet for a more thorough examination.

    Dog Health Symptom Checker

  • Small Breed Dog Food

    Small Breed Dog Food

    Small Breed Dog Food – Is A Specialist Diet For Small Breeds Worthwhile?

    Small dog breeds have specific, specialist nutritional requirements. In the case of a small breed puppy, their stomach is not large enough to hold sufficient food in one feeding to provide his daily nutritional needs without causing stress to their system, so smaller, broken down meals are advised. This is why some commercial dog food suppliers are now providing dog owners with the option of specialist small breed dog food.

    Small Breed Dog Food (Chihuahua)

    Small Breed Dog Food For Puppies

    When a puppy graduates from mother’s milk to solid food at about six weeks of age, he will require three to four meals a day, with the exception of Toys, who may need four to six meals. When he reaches about four to five months old, twice-a-day feedings may be sufficient. He can graduate to once-a-day meals at eight to nine months of age.

    A pup’s nutritional requirements for growth and development are greater than those for an adult dog. If you opt to feed your small dog breed pup a commercially prepared diet try to ensure it is a feed specially formulated for puppies and enables the youngster to get the full range of nutrients he needs.

    Balanced Diet: Small Breed Dog Food

    A small dog breed pup who eats a complete and balanced commercial puppy diet – whether it is a small breed dog food prepared diet or another puppy formulated specialist food – doesn’t need additional supplements. Adding supplements can cause nutritional imbalance as most modern commercial dog foods are prepared to contain all required nutritional elements your small breed puppy will require in this important growth stage. However, if you are supplying your dog with a home-cooked or fresh-diet meal plan, supplements may be necessary. Consult with a veterinary nutritionist to get further advice.

    Dry food can be moistened with warm water to encourage puppies to eat. Milk can be used, too, but only in extremely small amounts. Goats milk for puppies is often favoured by many breeders. Cow’s milk causes digestive upset in some puppies and dogs. A tablespoon of canned food can be added to increase interest, as well. These are general guidelines for feeding your small dog breed pup; consult with your veterinarian for more specific advice. If your pup doesn’t appear to be developing as you believe he should, feeding small breed dog food without first consulting a specialist in the area of dog nutrition would not be advised as your dog may have underlying problems that need to be investigated by a professional expert first.

    Small Breed Dog Food: Adults

    Feeding Adult small dog breeds: The adult small dog breed is a mature dog, usually age one year or older. Healthy adult dogs who are not pregnant, nursing, or hardworking have somewhat low nutritional requirements. Feeding is fairly straightforward if you’re feeding commercially prepared kibble. Buy a complete and balanced diet made for the adult dog and give your dog the recommended amount once or twice a day. Add a tablespoon of canned food for taste if you wish. Adjust the amount according to the small dog breed’s activity level and body condition.

    Feeding Hardworking small dog breeds: Highly active small dog breeds use a lot of energy. The hard-working dog can require two to three time more kilocalories per pound of body weight than what is required for normal activity. To maintain good body condition and keep up his stamina, the hardworking small dog breed must eat a high-energy diet.

    Many veterinarians recommend commercially prepared “performance” diets for highly active dogs. Higher fat, higher-protein diets supply the working dog with needed calories. Because performance diets are higher in protein than maintenance diets, there s a misconception that the active dog just needs extra protein. However, all nutrients are required in greater amounts. Additionally, research indicates that moderately high-protein diets are unlikely to cause kidney damage – in spite of some breeders’ and owners’ beliefs that it does.

    Feeding Your Elderly small dog breed: Older small dog breeds (those who have reached the last 25 percent of their expected life span) are usually less active than adult dogs and pups. Thus, their energy requirements are reduced and they can gain weight easily if fed too much or fed a high-calorie diet. Some veterinarians recommend “senior” diets; foods high in nutrients but reduced in calories to keep senior small dog breeds at a healthy weight.

    Feeding Small Dogs

    How Often Should a Small Dog Breed be Fed?

    There’s no exact answer on how much and how often to feed your small breed because it depends on the size, age, and activity level of each individual small breed. Feeding amount and schedule also depend on which diet you’re using and how cold it is outside. (Dogs who spend a lot of time outdoors in cold temperatures require more food.)

    Begin by following the feeding instructions spelled out on the dog food package. Realize that these instructions are a starting point, and apply to all breeds of a certain weight. Your small breed is an individual and every dog is different.

    Following that, observe your dog’s body condition:

    Is my puppy too thin?

    An overly thin small breed will have visible or easily felt ribs and hip bones may be visible. The waist and belly are obviously tucked up when viewed from the side. Increase food. Speak to your vet to find out if there are any underlying medical conditions causing your dog to be underweight.

    Just Right: The ribs should have just a little fat over them; you should be able to easily feel them with slight pressure. Your small breed should have a waist when viewed from above, and the belly should be tucked up when viewed from the side.

    Is My Dog Overweight?

    Too Fat: If you can’t easily feel your small breed s ribs and can easily see fat covering them, he is too heavy. His waist is absent or barely visible when viewed from above, or his belly may hang. Decrease food.

    How often you feed your small breed depends on how old he is and his (or your) personal preference. Pups must be fed several times a day, usually three..The average adult small breed can be fed once or twice a day, in the morning, evening, or both. Many owners like the idea of feeding twice a day, while others find it inconvenient and opt to feed once a day. Toy puppies have a very rapid metabolism and may require four to six meals a day to avoid hypoglycemia, a life-threatening drop in blood sugar levels. By six months of age, most Toy pups can cut back to three or four meals a day.

    Dogs are creatures of habit, and seem to enjoy eating at the same time every day. Feeding your small breed pup at the same time every day helps establish eating habits and makes housebreaking easier. Pups usually need to urinate or defecate after eating. If you feed him at the same time every day, you can predict when nature calls.

    Note: Free-feeding, leaving food out for the small breed at all times, is not recommended because it can lead to excess weight gain.

    Small Breed Dog Feeding: Conclusion

    Dog owners are fortunate to live in an age where there is an increasing awareness about proper dog nutrition. We understand that there is not a one-size-fits-all approach to feeding dogs. Specialist diets, such as small breed dog food, large breed dog food and dog foods specialist formulated for active/working dogs allow us to match our dog to a nutritional plan that perfectly matches their age, weight, breed and overall lifestyle. If you are considering feeding a dedicated small breed dog food, it makes sense to first understand the basic principles of why your breed would benefit for a tailored feeding plan.

    As with humans, dogs all have varying degrees of dietary requirements. Olympic athletes may require double the volume of calories in comparison to an ‘average’ person even if they are the same age, weight and height. On this basis, feeding a dog on the wrong diet could lead to weight gain, weight loss or even more serious health and behavioural problems. Dedicated diets can be a great benefit to owners who are keen to make sure their dog is receiving the right nutrition to match their breed’s individual requirements. On this basis it would be worthwhile to investigate the options when it comes to selecting small breed dog food that has been specifically formulated to provide the proper nutrition for your dog.

    Small Dog Breed Resources

     

  • Why Is My Dog Being Sick?

    Why Is My Dog Being Sick?

    My dog has started vomitting and I’m worried. What should I do?

    A) Firstly, you should always get in touch with your nearest vet and seek immediate professional advice on an issue this serious.

    dog being sick

    When Your Dog Is Vomiting

    The dog vomits with ease, seemingly at will, and often without apparent cause. One thing that almost never causes a dog to vomit is eating too fast. Bolting food is the natural way for a dog.

    Eating too much, however, is another matter. The capacity of a p stomach to hold food is phenomenal. Life Magazine once ran a story about a five-pound puppy that ate a five-pound ham, all but the bone! Such examples, of course, are the ultra-extreme. Adult dogs, on the other hand, can hold only about one and one-half ounces of liquid for each pound the dog weighs. Some dogs may even hold as much as two ounces per pound of body weight, but any quantities above this almost always produce vomiting.

    Vomiting, like diarrhea, is often seen in puppies. Dogs at this age have the exasperating habit of eating such things as dirt, stones, sand, bedding, toys, foil, paper, socks or almost anything else they can get into their mouths. Vomiting also occurs in adults from eating bones, sour food, garbage, carrion or feces. In these cases, vomiting is a sign of gastritis, which is an inflammation of the stomach. Gastritis is rapidly produced by such things as garbage, carrion or caustic chemicals. Most older dogs eventually learn that the foreign materials will make them sick, and stop eating them. The same dogs never seem to realize that garbage, buried bones or sour food may do the same thing – and neither do many owners!

    One of the most serious consequences of vomiting is that, once begun, vomiting can persist, even though the cause no longer exists. The usual course in such cases, if uncorrected, follows a characteristic pattern. The dog has a more or less violent seizure of vomiting that ordinarily eliminates the causative substance or object. The vomiting continues, but in a somewhat less violent nature, giving the appearance that the dog is improving.

    The loss of fluids and electrolytes in the vomiting causes an imbalance and a noticeable thirst develops. Mild depression develops as well as anorexia, and the vomiting begins to become more severe. Thirst is exaggerated, loss of fluids and electrolytes is accelerated and depression becomes marked. The vomiting becomes more and more violent and the continued loss of fluids and electrolytes creates a critical imbalance. If the situation is allowed to continue uninterrupted, the dog eventually dies from electrolyte imbalance and dehydration.

    To help with your dog’s vomiting problem, liquid foods should be fed first. Such things as beef and chicken broth not only supply a few calories, but are excellent tor establishing many of the electrolyte balances that have been disturbed by vomiting. Within 48 hours it is usually possible to finely chop a little hard-boiled egg into the broth. If this does not cause a return of the vomiting, then a little cottage cheese, some vanilla ice cream or a little toast and milk can be offered. Resumption of the regular diet can commence as soon as the bland foods are tolerated for at least 24 hours.

  • Is My Puppy Too Thin?

    Is My Puppy Too Thin?

    As a responsible pet owner, you need to be aware of your dog’s growth progress, from puppyhood to adulthood, to make sure that he stays in the best shape for the rest of his life. One of the things that you should do is to keep a weekly record of his weight until he reaches his 1st birthday. This is important in order to determine whether or not you have to modify his diet.

    is my puppy too thin

    A chubby puppy may look cute and cuddly, but he is at great risk of developing joint problems or a bone disease. On the other hand, a puppy who is not eating his required daily meal may be experiencing an illness by type of food he is eating. If you have a large-breed puppy, he should be at least 2 years old before you can see a dramatic growth in his size.

    Determining The Size/Ideal Weight Of Your Puppy

    Obese puppies lead to obese dogs. The best way to find out if your puppy is overweight or underweight is to feel his ribs. The correct way to do this is to position your puppy on the table. Place one hand on his right shoulder and the other on his left shoulder.

    Next, feel his ribs by applying a gentle press using the palm of your hand. You should be able to feel his ribs with just a little bit of fat and muscle. If you are having difficulty locating his ribs, then your puppy may need to shed some pounds. On the other hand, if you have no trouble finding every single rib in his body, you may have to add a little bit more calorie to his diet.

    Worried Your Puppy Is Too Thin? Check With Your Veterinarian

    If your puppy needs to lose some weight, the best way to handle the situation is to make an appointment with your vet. Your vet will give you specific instructions that you must implement on a day-to-day basis. Your puppy will probably be given a special diet designed specifically for weight loss, one that is going to satisfy his appetite and contain required nutrients that his body needs while helping him lose weight at the same time.  Your vet may also recommend regular exercise to help those extra calories. These include walking, occasional running, and lots of playing.

  • BARF Diet For Dogs

    ‘Natural approach to feeding can improve behaviour according to some experts’

    Raw dog food, natural dog food, the BARF diet – all gaining in popular appeal amongst dog owners. In this detailed report Carol O’Herily examines the impact of feeding raw on your dog’s health, behaviour and more.

    To BARF or not to BARF – that’s the bone of contention at the moment in the dog world.

    barf for dogs

    Australian vet Dr Ian Billinghurst’s book Give Your Dog A Bone, which introduced the BARF (biologically appropriate raw food) diet for dogs, threw the cat among the pigeons when it was first published in l993.

    While we long ago discovered the physical benefits of feeding this species-appropriate diet to our own dogs, we didn’t see it as our place to interfere with or try to convert those people who were happy with the convenience of feeding their dogs a commercially produced product.

    Raw Dog Food: Is it Natural?

    After all, dogs are scavengers and will try to pick up nutrients from pretty well anything that even remotely resembles food – sticks, stones, faeces, wood, grass, garden plants, coal, soap, dog food. It’s when they start on other things like the kitchen walls, skirting boards, carpets, the remote control, the post or the family’s pet rabbit that their owners start to think about calling in professional help for a behavioural problem.

    The catalyst for one dog owner calling us for help was when she came home from work to find that her new dog had dug up her old dog and was blissfully feeding on its rotting corpse in the garden. It took a lot of talking to get the lady to understand that what her dog did, though horrific from the human viewpoint, was perfectly normal and instinctive behaviour for a scavenger short on nutrition.

    Most dog owners try very hard to do the right thing by their pet. They take it to an obedience class and put in a lot of work in an effort to have a well-behaved dog. It can be soul destroying when the dog’s behaviour is great in class but atrocious at home.

    BARF Diet for Dogs

    Frustrated owners often re-home these badly behaved dogs. Some are destroyed because they breached the bounds of human decency by biting somebody. People have come to accept that horses bite. So do cats, hamsters, birds, pigs and rabbits. When a dog bites a person, we kill them rather than try to understand what happened. Dogs and humans are two totally different species trying to live together as friends, but each species has vastly different rules for survival.

    What we have come to understand after dealing with numerous problem dogs is the link between diet and bad behaviour. We’ve found that a lot, if not all, of the dog behavioural problems we treat happen for the most part as a direct result of the desperation and stress suffered by dogs when owners innocently give them a diet which is inappropriate for their species.

    However, it is simplistic to say that all bad behaviour can be cured by diet. This is not a cure all. Dogs need to be treated individually, not only in relation to diet but also according to their environment, pack, breed and history. However, suitable rehabilitation of problem dogs can be achieved very quickly if re-training is combined with sensible feeding.

    Owners are told that their dog will grow out of bad behaviour such as chewing, digging up the garden, jumping up and weeing all over the house. The good news is this is correct. The bad news is that some dogs can also grow into bad behaviour.

    The connection is food. Pups are generally fed multiple meals from a variety of ingredients and they are usually very happy little creatures. Something happens between happy puppyhood and out-of-control adulthood. A once happy puppy can become desperate and very badly behaved if its nutrition diminishes at the same time as its growth speeds up.

    Frequently the onset of bad behaviour can be traced close in time to when the frequent feeding regime was changed. If the feeds are reduced before the pup’s growth slows down, the puppy will instinctively seek to supplement its diet by trying to find edible items either in the house or garden. Unfortunately they don’t have a reference book of edible items, so they try anything and everything within reach.

    These young dogs can become quite loopy in their search for nutritional supplements. One of the symptoms of this desperation is hyperactivity. The owner then tries to do the right thing and take the dog for long walks ‘to use up its energy’. This can actually make matters worse as the dog expends the energy needed for growth.

    CASE HISTORY: We work closely with a small, private shelter called Just for Dogs in Derbyshire. Margaret and Doug Smith who run the shelter followed our suggestion and took on the BARF diet for one of the young dogs at the shelter whose behaviour was so atrocious that people would sidle gingerly past her enclosure when they were viewing dogs. No one in their right mind would want Sasha in their home.

    Because she was housed in a kennel with a cement floor, she was deprived of her ability to forage and supplement her diet. Also, the stress factor associated with kennelling further depleted her of vital nutrients. She consequently became unmanageable in her desperation to supplement and survive. Her behaviour changed dramatically with proper feeding and Sasha is now happily doing much better.

    After this experience, Doug and Margaret gradually adopted the BARF diet for all of the rescue dogs in the shelter. Their feeding and veterinary expenses have markedly reduced and the previously unwanted dogs are being d very quickly. It is easy to re-home a placid, well-behaved dog.

    Most people have been through the pangs of dietary excesses and deficiencies at some stage. You may not consciously recognise it as such but you will probably relate to standing in front of an open refrigerator, wanting to eat something but not knowing quite what you want. Mothers of teenage boys will recognise this behaviour. At times of stress and change such as during the teenage years, pregnancy, lactation, grief, loneliness or excessive exercise, our bodies crave different nutrients.

    Dogs are no different when some nutrient is missing from their diet. They are even more attuned to their body’s needs than we are and develop all sorts of ways to supplement their diet. They don’t stand in front of an open refrigerator, but they do raid food cupboards and feast on table legs, tissues (particularly used ones) and anything else that comes within teeth range.

    Listed below are some common behavioural problems and a brief outline of how the problems link to diet:

    • barking – to call the person who supplies the food (or) ‘stay away from my food supply’
    • chewing – trying items to find out if they supply nutrients
    • destructive behaviour – looking for the elusive “something” to satisfy a dietary deficiency
    • digging – searching for nutrients
    • pulling on the lead – on the hunt
    • inappropriate toileting habits in the adult dog – marking areas in the house where food is regularly eaten
    • food stealing – dogs are opportunists, especially when chronically hungry for appropriate nutrition
    • obsessive behaviour – often relates to the obsessive need to satisfy a craving or an expression of frustration when stopped from foraging to supplement the diet
    • sibling rivalry – the leader gets first go at the food
    • separation anxiety – their only source of food supply (owner) has gone
    • jumping up – to stimulate vomiting which produces food in the animal world

    Any or all of these problems can and do create havoc in the home of dog owners who just want their dogs to behave like the dogs on television.

    People Aggression

    The more desperate the dog, the more desperate the behaviour. If dogs knew that biting whilst living with us in our world would result in them being destroyed they wouldn’t do it, particularly since all their actions are about survival. So why do they do it?

    If you have ever embarked on a weight reduction diet with determination and have been very good for weeks eating all the right things and seeing results, you will know that there comes a time when you would happily rip the arm from someone to get a chocolate bar.

    Inappropriate dieting can produce aggression in the most amiable of people. This can happen also with the sudden withdrawal of previously often-taken substances such as nicotine, alcohol, barbiturates or sugar. Quite a lot of commercially produced dog food contains addictive ingredients, some as innocent as sugar. The rapid fluctuations in blood sugar levels has a lot to do with dogs that have ‘a mad half hour’ either before or after eating.

    Left to their own devices, dogs will forage all day and feed on a large variety of plants, insects, bacteria and animal matter. They will roll themselves in all sorts of smelly muck. They come home and spend hours “cleaning” themselves. They pick up a lot of nutrients this way and can become quite aggressive if owners try to wipe them clean or bath them. It’s not that they don’t want to be bathed, but more that they see your behaviour as robbing them of the vital dietary supplements they have managed to pick up and bring home on their feet and fur.

    CASE HISTORY: Stroller, a fourteen-month-old Blue Roan Cocker Spaniel was booked in for destruction when the owner contacted Bark Busters. He had attacked his owner. In unravelling the story, we found that Stroller had jumped up on the table, snatched a tissue and run under the table guarding his trophy aggressively. What Stroller didn’t know was that the owner’s engagement ring was inside the tissue. She naturally went under the table to retrieve it and Stroller attacked her. She was heartbroken because she thought that Stroller had turned on her.

    He was brought to Bark Busters’ head office farm for rehabilitation. One of the first things we noticed about him was the putrid smell from both ends. This is one of the signs of dietary stress that we look for. We started him on the BARF diet immediately. Over the next four weeks, the smell disappeared and so did his aggressive possessiveness with items. He took naturally to the diet as do most dogs and that, with a combination of training, exercise and manipulation, produced an absolute treasure of a dog that anyone would be proud to own. He doesn’t now need to ‘hunt’ to supplement his diet, as he was doing when he snatched the tissue. It would have been so easy to destroy him for his ‘aggressive’ behaviour.

    Dog or Food Aggression

    Dogs also learn to jealously guard areas where they regularly collect minute dietary supplements. This can lead to what appears to be dog aggression if a dog from another pack approaches what they see as their hunting grounds. They have no idea that the area they’re guarding is a public park.

    Dogs that are regularly fed from a bowl placed always in the same place can become aggressively protective of the bowl since they see it as their only source of food.

    They are particularly driven by food, as are most animals. If you want your dog to be well behaved, study what dogs are meant to eat and feed it to your dog. Don’t just take our word for it. Do your research. There is a huge groundswell of change happening as people become more and more aware of how diet affects behaviour.

    Zoo keepers go to great lengths to supply food which animals in their care instinctively eat in a wild situation – bamboo shoots for the giant pandas, leaves from the eucalyptus tree for koalas, fresh fruit and vegetables for the monkeys. Zoo keepers go to these lengths because they know that this ensures their animals remain happy and healthy.

    We are our dog’s keepers. Why then would we not feed them a diet which is biologically correct for their species? We should try to ‘listen’ to what they’re trying so desperately to us with their ‘bad’ behaviour.

    About The Writer:
    Carol O’Herlihy is a director of Bark Busters UK www.barkbusters.co.uk
    She is an experienced dog trainer and has helped to rehabilitate many dogs with behavioural problems.

  • Dog Leash Training Guide

    So, you’d like to know how to stop your dog pulling on the lead?

    Glorious summer days. The sounds of birds tweeting. Beautiful scenery all around….all completely overshadowed by the hound from hell dragging you at a pace you didn’t choose, in fact at a pace you can barely keep up with!

    Taking the dog for a walk is supposed to be a joy but with the dog who pulls on the leads, it becomes more of a hand chaffing nightmare!

    Let’s take a look at the steps we can take to learn how to stop a dog pulling on the lead.

    Stop Dog Pulling: Leads, Collars & Getting The Right Equipment

    Canine psychologist Natalka Jacyszyn – author of this report on ‘How to cure lead pulling in dogs‘ recommends using a flat collar and a nylon or rope lead, something that is comfortable for both you and your dog. Do not use an extending lead for training as you will find that you may not have enough control.

    Dog Leash Training

    Getting the equipment right is as crucial as teaching the desirable heel walking position using positive rewards.

    Having a dog that pulls is one thing, but having a dog that’s able to pull due to an owner using incorrect lead and collar set up is only going to make matters much, much worse.

    Dog Leash Training: Using a Clicker to Cure Lead Pulling

    Clickers are a fun and fast way to speed up your puppy’s learning process. Clicker training relies on behavior shaping principles that mark desired behavior.

    With clicker training, timing is everything. You must capture the exact moment your dog is doing something right. Also start thinking in terms of stage-by-stage training. Let’s say I want to teach my dog to make a left circle. I sit with my dog and click when my dog takes one step to the left. That’s stage one. Then I hold out my click for two steps, then three, then a full circle.

    Training this way definitely takes longer than pulling my dog in a circle, but once my dog figures out the sequence, he’s doing a circle with far more zest and enthusiasm than if I tugged him around and around.

    The second secret of clicker training: Don’t attach a spoken command to behavior until your dog has figured out what is making the clicker work. To explain, think of the behavior Sit. Each time your dog sits, click and reward.

    Getting the dog used to the concept of associating the click noise with a positive reward is how you achieve the best response when teaching the dog the desired behaviour to cure lead pulling problems.

    Tip: You do not begin with the clicker on correcting the lead pulling until you have properly established the positive response reaction with the dog by rewarding small, simple behaviours – such as sitting and coming when called.

    The Basics of Training Positive Behavior in Dogs

    Training any new desired dog behaviour follows a simple six-step method. Depending on the dog and other circumstances, a good trainer will vary his training method when he decides that a particular training challenge needs either a little more or less. When you have used the method enough to know it well, you can add your own personal touch as needed.

    The following are six steps for teaching your dog any new behaviour

    1. Get the behaviour.
    2. Mark the behaviour.
    3. Reward the behaviour.
    4. Repeat the behaviour until it happens easily at least 90{d4f4ff813a06e2c77cbb9c6effe011ebffe2f8986e44983e90e08c54deb62f63} of the time.
    5. Add the verbal cue as your dog does the behaviour to associate the word with the appropriate response.
    6. Use the verbal cue to elicit the behaviour.

    You get the behaviour by capturing, shaping, or luring it. You mark the behaviour with the click., or some other reward marker that your dog has already learned means that the reward is coming. Reward the behaviour by following the click with his favorite treat or, in some cases, with a favorite toy or other desirable reward, such as swimming or going outside.

    Repeat the behaviour until your pet is offering it easily before you add the verbal cue, so that he will associate the word with the correct behaviour response. For instance, by saying “Sit” as he does it, you are telling him that the name of the behaviour he is doing is Sit. If you ask him to do it before he’s offering the behaviour easily, you risk teaching him that the word sit means “stand there and look at me,” or worse, “sniff the ground and pull on the leash.”

    After your dog has heard the word at least a half-dozen times during the behaviour, depending on how quickly he seems to learn, then you can say the word first to elicit the behaviour. Be sure that his attention is focused on you so that he actually hears the word, and keep your body position the same as it was when you were getting the behaviour before. If you had been doing the “Sit” while you were standing and you suddenly start asking for it while you are sitting, he won’t understand that it’s the same thing.

    Give him a few seconds to respond. When he sits, click! and reward. If he doesn’t sit, use the minimum amount of assistance necessary (through body language or a lure, not through physical assistance) to get the behaviour, and repeat the exercise. If you find that he will only respond if you help him, start to minimize the amount of help you give until he is sitting for the verbal cue without any help from you.

    Would a Harness Stop Dogs Pulling?

    There are various styles of body harnesses is to choose from, but the majority of them have the basic metal D-ring which clips to the leash and is located on the strap that runs down the dog’s back. They can be used instead of collars which provide a much safer environment when the puppy tries to pull away.

    In this regard, the puppy receives the tension from the leash, instead of his or her neck, which could result in a spinal injury. Puppies are specially prone to running and darting every chance they get, even when on-leash. By removing the pressure from the dog’s airway, body harnesses are a safe and effective alternative to standard neck collars.

    If your dog is unresponsive when using a flat collar and lead – and still continues to pull – using a body harness or halter type set-up would be something to consider.

    The Basic Principles of Correcting Dog Pulling / Any Other Behavior

    Correcting the problem of a pulling dog is founded in two key principles that are universal to all dog training:

    1. Reward the desired behavior (lavishly)
    2. Do not reward the undesired behavior

    Now, you may wonder what it means to ‘not reward undesirable behavior’ but first it’s important to understand that any response can be perceived as a reward by some dogs.

    So if your dog is pulling and you respond by pulling back, for example, he may be treating this as a reward. He most certainly will if this process is just repeated over and over again.

    You need to work in small steps. Teach him to always second guess the direction you are going to walk in and the moment he is by your side, reward him. The moment he steps out too far, change direction and do not reward him.

    Be assertive and deliberate in your walking style. Do not let the dog lead the walk. If he pulls, you stop or go the other way.

    Encourage him to understand that he will be rewarded ONLY for not pulling. The moment you feel ANY tension on the lead, stop and don’t say a word to the dog. This is a non reward. Seek to establish in his mind a positive association with a loose leash and the way he is walking.

    If you have a problem with a dog who pulls on the lead, you can download K9 Magazine’s eBook ‘How to cure lead pulling in dogs ‘.

    Bonus Dog Leash Training Guide: How to Train Your Dog to Walk on a Loose Leash

    One of the biggest problems dog owners experience is out on the walk. The reason for this is due to the psychology of the pack needing a leader and more often than not, the dog thinks that he is it.

    If the dog believes he is the leader then he believes he should be at the front of the pack and this is why you will see owners being pulled by their dogs.

    Assessing the world through the dog’s eyes is paramount to helping him walk to heel. In order to change the dogs mind from pulling, we have to communicate in a gentle language he will understand.

    The dog believing he is the leader believes it is his job to protect the pack and anything that approaches such as other dogs, joggers or cars could be perceived as a threat.

    This creates all sorts of problems as the dog in a human ruled world will react to the threat in three ways: Flight, freeze and fight.

    To help the dog stay calm in a world it does not understand, we have to switch roles and become the leader. When you achieve this, the dog will have no responsibilities and look to you to react at the potential dangers. To reverse roles and teach the dog to heel we have to go back to basics where the walk starts and identify and progress through the stages. As we complete a stage we can then move forward.

    Firstly practice walking up and down the house with food reward encouraging your dog by your side rewarding him on a regular basis when he gets it right. As the dog understands where a good place to be is then you are ready to begin the first stage. The idea behind the stages is to start in a place where the dog feels comfortable with no distractions and build the foundations, as the dog improves you then slowly work up to a place with more distractions.

    The first stage is calling the dog to you to put the lead on. In this scenario the dog may become over excited at the sight of the lead and jump up, run around, nudge or make noise. If the dog does react in an undesirable manner then put the lead down. Putting the lead on when the dog is in this state will only encourage pulling out on the walk. Repeat by picking the lead up again and putting down, until the dog becomes desensitised to the lead and reacts in a calm manner. When the dog is in a calm state you are ready to put the lead on and move to the next stage.

    The second stage is putting the lead on and walking up and down the house once again encouraging your dog to the side you want him to be with food reward. If he gets it wrong we correct the mistake with a method called stop, start change direction. This method involves stopping when the dog drifts in front, encouraging him back to your chosen side, starting again when he is behind you, then changing direction. Repeating this method in the house lays the foundations for a good walk. Keep practicing and get it perfect in the house. If the dog does not listen to you in the house with no distractions, then he definitely will not listen to you outside with all the sights, smells and distractions.

    Teaching a Dog To Walk to Heel

    After teaching the dog to heel in the house you are ready to move to the third stage. The third stage is a place with more smells where the dog still feels safe like a garden, keep practicing stop, start, change direction, lots of praise, lots of food reward. If you haven’t got a garden, then choose a place outside with little distractions. Stay positive and dedicate a big space of time. Do not be in a hurry as the dog will feel if you are stressed. As the dog listens to you here then you are ready to progress to the next stage.

    The next stage is somewhere quiet with a few more distractions like a residential area, keep correcting if the dog pulls by stopping, starting and changing direction (SSCD).

    Reward The Dog When They Don’t Pull The Leash

    When they get it right keep rewarding, avoid all other dogs by crossing the road or walking in another direction, showing the dog that you lead in all areas. Keep away from all other distractions by leading the dog in a different direction. If you head towards a distraction or threat, then do not be surprised if your dog reacts. This means he is not ready so help him feel safe by keeping good distance.

    The more you play a leader role and choose flight from potential threats the more the dog will feel safe in your company and begin to trust your decisions. As the dog heels in this area and successfully follows you away from distractions then you can move on further afield to a busier place. If the dog still has problems here then spend time in this area teaching the dog.

    The next stage could be a busier residential street with more activity e.g. more cars, people and distractions. Walk up and down the street encouraging your dog by your side. If you or your dog feels anxious then go back to a stage where you both felt comfortable and progress again from there.

    When the dog is heeling to your side at this point then pick a busier place like your local village or town. This will be a test as there are many distractions. Once this is completed you are ready for the final stage, which is the park. If your dog pulls as soon as it gets here then walk back and try again. Keep repeating to you can successfully walk through the park on lead.

    Training the dog to heel is a test of wills, so no matter what keep it up and recognise your dog’s state. Staying calm, convincing and consistent and not rushing your dog will help him feel relaxed in a world he does not understand.

    Bonus #2: Puppy Leash Training – Stop Puppy Pulling on Lead

    New dog owners whom are working the basics of leash control should be attaching a leash to a harness. When you are not familiar with the basics of leash control, you don’t want to use a collar as it puts too much stress on your dog’s neck, as well as on your own back. Even a 25 pound puppy has a lot of force when he lunges forward.

    Once your puppy gets older and you have the basics of leash control down, then you can switch to a training collar. Remember, when walking your puppy, try to keep him from getting behind you and to your right side. This will only get you tangled up in his lead.

    Let’s look at the dynamics of a puppy’s pull. A pup’s hind legs act as a powerful engine that propel him forward while his shoulders steer him in the direction he wishes to go. Watch his front legs and where they are reaching – this is the direction he is going.

    Trying to hold your dog back when he pulls has the opposite effect that you wish to achieve. The more you resist his pull, the more his hind legs get revved up as if they are going into higher gear. His body sinks lower to the ground which lowers his center of gravity and the result is that your puppy now has more strength behind the pull. You don’t want to play tug-of-war with your puppy.

    The best action is to take a few steps forward into that weight, leading with your right leg so you can close in on your puppy’s head. When you do this, all that energy from his hind legs is released and flows over to his front legs – this throws his weight forward and his balance off. This action will considerably slow the movement of your puppy. This is a good time to snap the leash directly over your left shoulder and say “Wait.”

    You can also slow your puppy down by sitting lower in your seat as you walk, in other words, lowering your center of gravity. By bringing your weight down, you will physically fatigue your puppy from thrusting forward. You are using your weight to counter pull his movement. Since you weigh more than your puppy, you are using your weight to your advantage.

    Contributors

    Nigel Reed is a dog behaviourist from London. For further details about his work or to set up a consulation, visit www.dogtraininginlondon.co.uk

    Natalka Jacyszyn is a full time canine psychologist.

    Further Reading:

    If you are struggling with a dog pulling on the lead, check out Natalka Jacyszyn’s eBook ‘How to Cure Dog Pulling‘.

  • How Do I House Train My Dog?

    House training, house breaking, potty training or toilet training refers to teaching the dog when and where to go to the bathroom or to the designated toilet area. Everyone wants to have a dog around but nobody wants to clean the mess created by the pet especially if the accident happened on the carpet, on the bed or in other areas inside the house. The ease or the difficulty of house training the dog will basically depend on the persistence and on the methods used by the dog owner. The task of teaching the dog to eliminate in the designated area will basically depend on the training methods used and on the patience and persistence of the dog owner.

    House breaking the puppy is not the responsibility of the breeder. As with any other kind of training, the task of housebreaking the pet would be easier if started while the dog is still a puppy. Dog owners will notice that these animals are creatures of habit.

    Dogs that have soiled a particular area will return to the same place over and over again to defecate or urinate. It would be your responsibility to guide the dog so that the habit that will be formed is to relieve itself in the designated area. This task would be difficult for pet owners that are not at home most of the time. Don’t be disheartened as dogs being intelligent animals would adapt to the potty training in a very short time.

    You need to designate an area to be the dog’s very own toilet. Suitable areas can be the garage, a corner of the bathroom or in the yard. Dogs have to do their business after waking up, after eating and before sleeping thus you can take the dog to the toilet area during these times to eliminate. A pat or a praise given after the dog has eliminated in the correct place will make the dog repeat the good deed again. Dogs that are allowed to roam inside the house can have accidents thus an owner need to know the telltale signs that the dog is about to do its business so that it can be taken to the designated place right away.

    Dogs make wonderful companions but these animals are entirely dependent on their owners. Getting a dog for a pet entails a huge responsibility as aside from the food and the care that must be provided for the dog, various training will also be necessary to mold the dog into a wonderful individual that will be significant member of the family

    Find out more about how to house train your dog as well as information on dog first aid at Sarah’s Dogs.

  • Dog Adoption: New Dog Comes to Your Home

    If you’re considering getting a dog, why not consider adopting a new friend? Shelters are generally full to overflowing, with dogs ending up there through no fault of their own. Adoption fees are often less than the cost of a new puppy, with adoption fees set to cover any healthcare, food and housing costs of the dogs in their care, but your decision should be based on finding the right dog for you.

    There are as many pure breed dogs as cross-breeds in rescue, so if you’re considering adopting a pure breed dog make sure you know what to expect with any hereditary health issues.

    On a recent visit, I saw one Great Dane, 2 German Shepherds, 2 Dalmatians and 3 Labrador Retrievers that were most definitely purebreds. They ended up in a shelter because of owners who don’t know how to train them – or have no time for them. Labs, in particular, are often dropped off at shelters for “chewing things up” – but that is the nature of that breed when young.  They are “mouthy” and will chew everything in sight until trained what is and isn’t permissible as a chew toy.  Many Lab owners take drastic steps to control chewing by buying special gates and pens or confining the dogs to special rooms when the owner is absent.

    Although it’s true that a few dogs may end up at the shelter due to barking or antisocial behaviour, those problems are able to be worked through if you are dedicated and committed.  All dogs simply need a bit of obedience training to become valuable companions.

    Some shelter dogs may have been through various situations before landing at the shelter. They may have been maltreated, abandoned by a roadway, become lost and wandered alone for some time and they won’t understand what’s happened, but if given a second chance in the right home with the right commitment any dog will thrive and give you as much love as you give them. Giving a dog a second chance isn’t just something you do for them, you benefit hugely too. A lot of people who’ve adopted a dog say they believe their dog ‘knows’. Whether they do or not, it doesn’t really matter because when you bring a dog – any dog – into your home, you also bring unconditional love too, unlike any other.

    Once you bring your new dog home, the best thing you can do is to instil a routine for at least a few weeks. For some dogs who’ve had a tough start, a routine is something they grasp onto for security. My own rescue dog likes the security of knowing when it’s breakfast time and when it’s bedtime (whether we like it or not!), where he eats (I have three dogs, each with their own raised dog bowls feeding station), where his lead is for ‘walkies’. Dogs are quick to adapt to the schedules of their people and some canines seem to have their own inner clocks.

    Dogs are quick to adapt to the schedules of their people and some canines seem to have their own inner clocks.As much as you can set a schedule, your dog will also set their own. Your dog may want to play early in the morning and again in the late afternoon – and if you have children, no doubt your dog will learn when to expect his small human friends home!

    In all cases, dogs need kindness given – in some cases with rescue dogs, you may need to change how you normally discipline to correct unwanted behaviours. Most rescues offer full post adoption support, so it is best to seek advice from them and a behaviourist if you are unsure. Remember that some dogs may have been mishandled or mistreated. If you quickly raise an arm or make a sudden movement and notice your dog will cringe or growl – you know there is some history there to overcome. Kindness and patience will solve the problem but it will take time to gain the total trust of the animal.

    From the first day you bring your adopted dog home, put your hands on him often and get him used to gentle strokes, building up trust with you. Look at his ears, his paws; look closely through his fur or at the skin of his belly.  What are you looking for? Nothing. You are letting the dog know from the first meeting that you will be touching and looking at him closely. Many dogs will become very nervous at this attention but it is important to establish your “right” to do this as ease of grooming, dog baths and veterinary visits depend on being able to handle the dog in this way.

    You also start basic behaviour training the moment you bring the dog home. Spoil him with healthy dog treats – but make him “sit” before getting each biscuit.  Take him for walks or bring it to a dog daycare to allow your pet understand and experience what it truly means to be socialized. Let the dog know what is expected of him and through your voice let him know what is good and bad. Knowing what is expected of him allows a dog to settle in and learn to trust his new owner.

     

  • Everything You Want to Know About Housebreaking Your Dog

    Everything You Want to Know About Housebreaking Your Dog

    Housebreaking your new dog may seem like a daunting prospect, buy it’s usually pretty easy. No matter what age your dog is, the same principles apply: praise, supervision, confinement, and patience. Take your dog to his proper toilet area as often as possible, and praise him; supervise him at all times when he is in the house; and when you can’t supervise, confine him in some way. But above all, be patient.

    Right from the beginning, whether your dog is old enough to control himself or not, the real training needs to begin. Here’s how to do it:

    Rule out any medical problem first. Have him checked out by a veterinarian to make sure he’s fit. A “wormy” puppy with diarrhea can’t be expected to control himself.

    Feed low-residue food. Give him two or three meals daily of a well-balanced, low-residue food (your vet can recommend a brand), rather than leaving the food out all day. Be consistent in his mealtimes to make the times of elimination more predictable. Try to make the last meal no later than 5 PM to help your dog make it through the night. Picking up his water at 8 PM may also be helpful as long as he doesn’t have a medical problem (such as kidney disease) that would make water restriction dangerous.

    Select one area as his toilet. Take your dog to an area of the yard you’ve pre-selected as his toilet zone. Show him where it is (don’t expect him to find it on his own) at the times he is expected to need to eliminate: immediately upon awakening, soon after eating, and at exciting times (after meeting new people, after a car ride, before and after play). When you’re puppy gives you that “uncomfortable” look, take him to the toilet area immediately. A puppy usually needs to be taken tom his area approximately every 2 to 4 hours. An older Boston terrier dog may only need to be taken every 4 to 6 hours.

    Teach a cue word. When you get to the area and your pup begins to search for the right spot, say to him “Hurry up,” “Do your business,” or any other creative phrase. That phrase will soon act as a cue to spend him up.

    Always praise and play afterward-not before. Pay your pup lots of compliments immediately after he eliminates in the right area. Then play with him in another spot outside. If your pet doesn’t do his business in his area after about 5 minutes, bring him back into the house and either tie or confine him for another 5 minutes. Then take him out to the toilet area again. The second time around is usually successful.

    Supervise your dog in the house at all times. Always keep your dog with you. If you’re too busy to watch him, put him in his pen or confined area. Keep him in his pen (with papers when he needs them and without papers when he gets older) or confined area when you are not home.

    Never use punishment after the fact. Even if you’re doing everything in your power to prevent accidents, they do happen. If you catch your puppy in the act, clap your hands to startle him, and say “No!” Take him outside to finish immediately. If he does, praise him for doing a good job. If you find an accident, do not raise your voice, spank your pup, or rub his nose in it. You won’t make him afraid of having accidents, but you will make him afraid of you.

    Learn from hi mistakes. Keep good records of accidents. Use these records to predict when your pup needs to eliminate so that you can alter your schedule to prevent the next one.

    Neutralize the odor. When cleaning up accidents, use products that neutralize urine odor. Avoid products with ammonia, as these may genuinely attract young pets like Boston Terrier puppies to urinate in the same location.

    Be patient and positive. This last tip is the most important. It’s possible to housebreak just about any dog like a Boston Terrier, though it may have to be done at his pace.