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  • Did My Dog’s Food Nearly Kill my Best Friend?

    Did My Dog’s Food Nearly Kill my Best Friend?

    On a Sunday evening in July 2009, I was using my computer and my 5 year old Samoyed Bundy came in shaking his head (he had left my room approximately 15 mins earlier). I thought he was bringing me the ball because he wanted to play. He was also pawing at his mouth, so I thought he must have something stuck in his mouth. I had a look but couldn’t see anything. I knew something was seriously wrong so I jumped in the car and raced to the nearest 24 hour vet as fast as I could with Bundy in the back, still acting strangely with his head.

    Luckily, the roads were empty and there was no one waiting at the vet. As we were led into the examination room, Bundy collapsed on the floor and was trembling all over. I then had to go back to the waiting room while they attended to him in the back. After a wait, I was led to the back where Bundy was in a cage and flailing about uncontrollably, which was very distressing for both him and me. I understand the vet gave him a shot of pentobarbital to knock him out. After another wait, I eventually went home but, obviously, I couldn’t sleep.

    The next day, when I visited him, he was lying on a bed with lots of tubes and machines attached. He was unconscious but his paws and face were still twitching. It was tearing me apart to see him like that but I stayed for a few hours and held his paw, because I didn’t think he was going to make it. I don’t think the vets were very optimistic either because he was developing asperatic pneumonia.

    I visited him every day and stayed for a few hours but I realised that the nurses have other animals to look after and duties to perform so I didn’t want to get in their way by staying longer. The vets and nurses that treated him gave him the best of care and I’m very grateful.

    He remained unconscious for 3 or 4 days which, I’m told, is not usual but not unheard of either. The vets there treated him with a cocktail of drugs to try to control his twitching. They recommended sending him to a specialist centre so, after about 5 days, I drove him in the back of my car. He was still unconscious so a vet nurse sat with him, assisting with the oxygen.

    The vets at the specialist centre ran a multitude of generalised tests including MRI and spinal taps but the results were inconclusive. After a day or so, he started to come around, semi conscious, but still twitching. The next day I visited, he was finally awake and when he saw me he started to whine with all the energy his weak body could muster, he could barely move but he still wanted to lick me and it became very emotional for both of us. Within a week, he got more responsive and stronger every day and was then allowed home.

    As Bundy is 5 years old, epileptic fits were a possibility but I’m told that they do not last for 3+ days and the MRI brain scan had ruled out a brain tumour.

    The vets that treated him thought it was likely he had come into contact with a toxin that acted on his nervous system. I wracked my brains as to what that could be as I wanted answers. The day of the episode, we went for a walk (on lead) at about 5 pm then he was shut inside the house and had his food about 6pm. There was no access to the garden and there are no chemicals around the house.

    The previous day, I had put a new tick collar on him and noticed a very strong smell coming from it. I assumed that this must be the cause of Bundy’s condition somehow so I didn’t put another back on him.

    When he was back home, I was feeding him brand new packets of his usual dry dog food that he likes and has had for years but, before the first episode, I had bought a different brand of food just for a change and added this to his usual food in a container, one that he had never had before (not sure if I can say the brand name, for legal reasons, but possibly the biggest and most popular brand in the world and the name is something to do with a dog’s heritage). Anyway, after a few weeks of feeding him brand new usual food strait out of the packet, I went back to adding some of his previous food on top. Within that week, he had a serious case of diahorreoa but I thought that could just be down to the drugs he was on.

    A few days later (coincidentally, again on a Sunday night and about 2 hours later in the evening than the first episode), I noticed Bundy looking at me strangely and his legs were shaking. I immediately knew what was wrong and I drove him down to the specialist centre where he was again in intensive care for a week or so.

    He came home very weak but, today, over six months later he is fit and healthy apart from his legs sometimes shaking when he stands. Obviously, there appears to be some residual nerve damage.

    The vets at the specialist centre ran more tests the second time but still nothing was remarkable.

    The four different vets that treated him between the two veterinary clinics and both episodes suspected intoxication by organophosphates, metaldehyde, (slug bait) or mycotoxins.

    It was after this second occurrence that I realised that this new brand of dog food was the only common factor in both these cases. Perhaps it was contaminated?

    I contacted the company that makes the dog food and arranged for an approximate 1kg sample to be sent off (but unfortunately I didn’t have the bag and batch code). The sample I sent did have small amounts of Bundy’s usual dog food mixed in (other brand). I sent it like this because this new food was added on top of his old food in a container and I wanted to know if they would even notice or just throw it away but, surprisingly, they did notice. I think, because of this, they did not run any tests.

    A guy qualified in veterinary science, and who works for the dog food company, dealing with complaints of this nature, sent me a letter saying he had contacted my vet and discussed the causes of ‘tremorgens’ (a group of mycotoxins). These have been associated with Blue cheese, walnuts and compost as well as others and it was unlikely that their product was responsible.

    Fortunately, Bundy has not been fed or been near those stated substances.

    When I leave the house Bundy stays inside and he is always walked on a lead, he only goes into the garden if I go into the garden and the last time I saw a slug was about 10 years ago so he has very little chance of ever coming across something I don’t know about.

    After a few weeks, I contacted the company’s vet again for the results of the test. I understand the tests didn’t show up anything abnormal. I wasn’t surprised at the company’s response because no company is ever going to test their own product and say something is wrong with it. He suggested that it was just one of those unexplained things, which I would have believed for the first episode but it is too coincidental for the second.

    I got a bit annoyed with this guy because the way he dismissed my reasoning seemed arrogant.

    He said that because they hadn’t had any other complaints, there was obviously nothing wrong with the batch and he also said that was the end of the matter and there was nothing else they would do.

    Not being content with this dismissal or his arrogant and patronising attitude, I contacted a more senior person at the company and spoke to a technical director and arranged for another sample to be tested (I only had a handful left). He said it would be sent to Singapore, would take about 6 weeks and would cost a bit of money.

    While I was waiting for these tests to be performed, I decided to conduct my own research into probable causes (something I should have done earlier) and discovered a few scientific papers freely available on the internet about Mycotoxins affecting dogs.

    Roughly speaking, Mycotoxins are a group of toxins that form as a result of mould on numerous organic sources and can be deadly and cause a number of different conditions to both humans and animals. They can be found in both cereals and dry dog food, a fact which was omitted from the letter I was sent.

    Either the veterinary guy dealing with my complaint has limited knowledge of these potential killers (for someone in his position, this seems very remiss) or he was fully aware of the potential problems but decided to keep quiet so as not to open a can of worms.

    I did provide an email link to all of the papers (listed below) but it would appear that neither of the people I have been in contact with has read them, as they have subsequently provided no comment.

    A number of the cases reported in the papers show clinical symptoms which are nearly identical to Bundy’s condition and, when biological samples from the dogs were analysed, Roquefortine and Penitrem A were detected and suspected as the probable cause.

    A few weeks later, I received in the post the results of the sample testing (it had been sent to a lab in Victoria, not Singapore). Only four tests were performed: two types of mycotoxin, namely Aflatoxin B1 and Patulin, and also lead and permethrin.

    I consider this test to be irrelevant and inconclusive due to the fact the very small sample size was statistically insignificant and they failed to test for any of the mycotoxins that are linked to tremors in dogs.(apparently there are over 30 known)

    The dog food company’s sole defence was based around the fact that they apparently hadn’t received complaints of a similar nature and that their quality control is of a very high standard, and perhaps it was the other brand of dog food that caused it?

    Addressing this statement, my research has indicated that detection and confirmation of mycotoxin poisoning has been grossly under diagnosed and, as far as I am aware, the specialist centre that treated Bundy did not test for this possibility. (I’m not even sure there is a commercial laboratory in Australia that tests for most of the different types).

    In my case, it was only after the second episode that I realised that this brand of dog food was the only common factor that was likely to be responsible and it is possible that many dogs that have a single episode of unexplained acute toxicoses unfortunately die or have to be euthanized due to excessive trauma, poor prognosis and/or lack of financial resources so a confirmed diagnosis and connection to the dog food is not made and hence it is not reported back to the company.

    While I’m confident that their quality control is of a high standard, it is unlikely that it is one hundred percent reliable and variations in the materials and process can be expected in any product.

    After doing further research I discovered a Uni in the USA (Iowa State) that specialises in veterinary medicine and also test for the two mycotoxins I’m interested in, namely Roquefortine and Penitrem A.

    I spoke to a Professor of toxicology from the department and he believed that mycotoxins are not well understood and not commercially tested for because of lack of demand. I provided him with bundy’s Vet case notes and his story and he confirmed that it did indeed fit with mycotoxin poisoning.

    I sent a 1kg sample of Bundy’s original food to be tested at my own expense, the test came back negative so I can be fairly confident that it wasn’t the other brand to blame which I believed was the case anyway because of the timing. THIS IS WHAT THE COMPANY SHOULD HAVE TESTED FOR!

    This whole incident has caused me a great deal of stress, and some days I couldn’t eat or sleep properly.

    I feel that the company didn’t take my claims seriously and underestimated two important factors:

    1. When I think I am right, I don’t give in.
    2. I won’t let anyone hurt my dog and get away with it.

    I spent most of my college fund on Bundy’s vet bills and, as he means everything in the world to me, I will do whatever it takes to protect and look after him.

    I am convinced that this brand is responsible and I want them to reimburse my vet bills and make it up to Bundy somehow but I realise that posting this statement and contacting the media in other ways will effectively put an end to any chances of financial restitution. However, I will take some comfort in the hope that this might provide an explanation and quicker diagnosis to future apparent toxic poisonings.

    I also feel I have been very fair and patient with the company in question and gave them every opportunity to do the right thing but, at every stage, they have seemed intent on absolving themselves from any responsibility. I can only conclude that from the irrelevant sample tests that either the company is grossly incompetent or they deliberately tried to mislead me.

    If my dog had died as a result of this, I would probably be standing outside the company’s headquarters with a placard saying that their food was responsible for poisoning my dog.

    My advice would be that, if your dog exhibits any acute tremors or seizure symptoms, like Bundy had, then get the vet to check for Mycotoxins (though this might be difficult in some countries) and to keep the dog food bags for future evidence if need be.

    As Bundy is a Samoyed and they are not common here, perhaps he could be more genetically pre-disposed to toxins that other breeds?

    If anyone has had a similar experience or can offer a different explanation, I would welcome a response.

    UPDATE: 12th Feb. 2010

    I decided to contact consumer affairs and they passed me onto the Pet Food Industry Association of Australia (P.F.I.A .A) and spoke to the executive manager. I provided him with Bundy’s history and my concerns and he contacted the company and said he was satisfied with their response.

    It was only after I explored their website that I read their Statement of Purpose

    #1 “To promote the prepared pet food industry in general and the interests of the members of the association.”

    So this guy had a conflict of interest to do anything about it as I understand the association is funded by its members.

    A few days later I contacted the company again and put a few questions to the guy I spoke to many times before (manager, veterinary services).

    I asked him, how many people have to complain about a product before they admit responsibility.

    Unsurprisingly he failed to specifically answer. He just reiterated what he said many times before, that no one else has complained of this problem so it is not their responsibility. Imagine if you went to the doctor with an ailment and they said, “Well no one else has complained of this so nothing I can do.”

    I also asked why he failed to test for Tremorgenic Mycotoxins in the samples I provided. His response was that they only had a small sample and they wanted to test for as wide range as possible? (a wide range of the toxins that don’t cause tremors?)

    When I pointed out that I had spoken to and expert and had the other brand properly tested for tremorgenic mycotoxins he didn’t want to know and said it was irrelevant and rudely concluded our conversation.

    Thanks to other forum members I can see that in other countries they have had serious problems with contamination of their dog food products with salmonella and melamine. Anyone would have to be crazy to feed their dog this companies products.

    To me it is obvious that the dog food is responsible and the company has done nothing to prove otherwise.

    Craig W. 2009.

    References;

    Bennett, J.W, & Klich, M. (2003) Mycotoxins. Viewed 19th Dec 2009 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC164220/

    Bough, M, (2006) Toxicology Brief: “Tremorgenic Mycotoxicosis in Dogs”. Viewed 19th Dec 2009 http://www.compendiumvet.com/ME2/Audiences/dirmod.asp?sid=F0E2AE6B0B7E437588DFCF8A9FCA8CAC&nm=CE+Programs&type=Publishing&mod=Publications%3A%3AArticle&mid=8F3A7027421841978F18BE895F87F791&tier=4&id=60963CBCF74D4156BBFCA2595B06714C&AudID=43A035C1ADDF4F5F823E087E3BEE4975

    Eriksen et al, (2009) Poisoning of dogs with tremorgenic Penicillium toxins. Viewed 19th Dec 2009 http://informahealthcare.com/doi/abs/10.3109/13693780903225821

    Hocking, A.D, Holds, K, Tobin, N.F, (1988) Intoxication by tremorgenic mycotoxin (penitrem A) in a dog. Viewed 19th December 2009 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/3401148?itool=EntrezSystem2.PEntrez.Pubmed.Pubmed_ResultsPanel.Pubmed_RVDocSum&ordinalpos=10

    Lowes, N.R, Smith, R.A, Beck, B.E (1992) Roquefortine in the stomach contents of dogs suspected of strychnine poisoning in Alberta. Viewed 19th December 2009 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1481371/pdf/canvetj00057-0057.pdf

    Schell, M.M, (2000), Tremorgenic mycotoxin intoxication. Viewed 19th Dec 2009 http://www2.aspca.org/site/DocServer/toxbrief_0400.pdf?docID=113

    Virginia Maryland Veterinary Notes (2005), Veterinary Teaching Hospital, Virginia-Maryland Regional College of Veterinary Medicine, Viewed 19th Dec 2009 http://www.vetmed.vt.edu/engagement/ext/pub/VetNotes_115.pdf

    Walter,S.L, (2002), Acute penitrem A and roquefortine poisoning in a dog. Viewed 19th Dec 2009 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC339273/?referer=www.clickfind.com.au

  • Hero Dog Saves Cats Dumped in Crisp Box

    The RSPCA is appealing for information after an unlikely hero came to the rescue of a cat and her kittens which had been dumped in a crisp box in Middlesbrough.

    The terrified trio had been left to die, trapped in a box with no food and water and dumped in bushes in a park under the cover of darkness.

    By an incredible stroke of luck the cats were sniffed out and saved by Vader the dog who was out on a late night walk with her owner Sharon.

    Sharon Smith, who lives near Pallister Park in Middlesbrough, said: “I had been throwing the ball for her, she went into the bushes to get it and I could she was nudging a box and whining. I knew it must be something important because she’d left her ball behind and she’s crazy about her ball.

    “I went over to take a look could see there were some holes in the box and it was moving so I called my son and he came and helped me take Vader and the box home.”

    Sharon was stunned when she opened the taped-up Doritos box and found a tortoiseshell cat and two ginger tabby kittens inside.

    She said: “When I pulled off the tape and opened the box I saw the cat and kittens inside and I was shocked. They were terrified. It was a small box for them, it was just heartbreaking.

    “It’s is disgusting that anyone would dump them like that. It’s absolutely appalling.”

    The mother cat, who is thought to be between one and two-years-old, and her kittens who are thought to be about eight-weeks-old, were taken to the vets to be checked over and are now in RSPCA care.

    RSPCA Inspector Emma Stainthorpe said: “The box was very small for the three of them, there was no food or water and the bottom of it was soiled with urine.

    “The mother cat was not microchipped so we do not know who her owner is. She is friendly so it would appear she’s been handled and was someone’s pet. It’s really important that people get their cats neutered if they do not want kittens.

    “Vader is such a lovely little dog, without her these little kittens may not have survived. She really is the hero of the hour.”

    Vader,a five-year-old white Staffordshire Bull Terrier named after the Star Wars villain Darth Vader, is being spoiled rotten as a reward for finding the dumped cats.

    Proud owner Sharon added: “I wouldn’t have looked in the box unless Vader had brought my attention to it. I thought it was just rubbish.

    “I don’t know what would have happened to those poor kittens if Vader hadn’t found the box, I dread to think.

    “Thank goodness for Vader, she really is a hero. I’ve given her three new tennis balls as a treat for finding the kittens as she was so focused on the box she lost her ball.”

    Anyone with information about who abandoned the kittens late on Tuesday 22 September can contact the RSPCA appeal line on 0300 123 8018 and leave a message for Inspector Emma Stainthorpe.

  • Welsh Songstress Duffy Calls on Dog Owners to Help End Annual Dog Meat Event in China

    Welsh Songstress Duffy Calls on Dog Owners to Help End Annual Dog Meat Event in China

    Welsh singer Duffy has joined with the International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW) to call for an end to an annual dog meat event in Yulin, China, which could see around 10,000 dogs butchered and eaten.

    The Grammy and multi Brit Award-winning singer/songwriter and IFAW are asking the British Ambassador in China to intervene and help ban the horrific annual mass consumption of dog meat in Yulin City.

    The event in Guangxi Province takes place around the summer solstice on 21 June. In the weeks before, many thousands of dogs are reportedly transported huge distances in cramped cages, without food and water, to await their gruesome fate.

    A big proportion of the thousands of dogs consumed are in fact reportedly stolen pets, and the theft of dogs by criminal gangs to supply the demand for dog meat is an ever-increasing problem in China.

    Speaking about the plight and why she has chosen to speak out, Duffy said: “Each year, around the 21st June, up to 10,000 dogs are slaughtered in a city called Yulin in China, for human consumption. For the love of dogs, I ask China to please #StopYulin.

    “I urge the Chinese government to listen to the growing movement of concerned Chinese citizens and animal welfare ambassadors, and the international community, to end this inhumane event and instead to focus on celebrating man’s best friends who have been beside us, loyally, for centuries.”

    In previous years, local investigators and the media reported brutal handling and slaughter of dogs, including beatings and live-skinning, all apparently in public view and in front of other dogs awaiting their own slaughter.

    The annual mass consumption of dog meat in Yulin is a modern tradition rather than a long-held cultural practice, dating back only a few years. Whilst some defend this event as a local ‘folk custom’, it is profit-driven.

    In 2011 a dog meat festival in China, the Jinhua Hutou Dog Meat Festival, was banned completely following similar worldwide condemnation.

    Duffy added: “Please take this moment to sign IFAW’s petition letter, share the #StopYulin message and help us to stop the killing and eating of dogs at Yulin.”

    IFAW is urging people to add their names to a petition for the British Ambassador to China, Barbara Woodward, which can be found here

  • Are Certain Dogs Really Overlooked in Rescues Because of Their Colour?

    Are Certain Dogs Really Overlooked in Rescues Because of Their Colour?

    Well, yes, according to the RSPCA brindle coloured dogs aren’t given the same chance that others are.

    According to the charity, over the last three years it has taken on average 41 days to find loving new homes for the dogs in their care, yet for brindle dogs this figure is 65 days.

    Here are six fantastic brindle dogs currently in rescue across the UK who can’t wait to find a home – could it be with you?

     

    1. Pippin

    This lovely cross-breed girl is around 20 months old who was rescued by Lea Valley Dog Rescue from a dog pound. She is an affectionate little girl who has gained in confidence since coming into rescue. She is roughly the size of a small Cocker Spaniel and we think she has some Whippet in her, judging by her lovely looks.

    Pippin loves the company of humans and dogs alike. She loves long walks and would love to get her very own family, someone to love her and show her how good life could be, someone who will let her enjoy the spring air and the summer sun. Pippin is ready to start the next length of her journey.

    Find out more about Pippin here

     

    2. Luca

    This fabulous blue brindle 5 year old Greyhound boy is a big huggable chunk of a boy! No longer ‘required’ he has thankfully landed on his feet with Kerry Greyhounds UK and is now in a foster home awaiting his new life with his (hopefully) soon to be forever family. He is a stunning boy with a lot of love to give.

    He really will make a lovely addition to the lucky family who adopts him. Luca always keeps a favourite soft toy close by so he can play with it and fling it in the air at any given time! He is a ray of sunshine and will make anyone and everyone smile and laugh with his funny antics and lovely character.

    Find out more about Luca here

     

    3.  Rosie

    What a stunning little girl Rosie is! This 3 year old female Staffordshire Bull Terrier needs a supportive family to offer time and tolerance to allow her to settle into her new home. Rosie was found stray/abandoned and unclaimed within a council pound until Rescue Remedies stepped forwards to offer a rescue place and save her life.

    Rosie is a gem and is now prepared for her home. She walks beside you and meets most dogs well but would tell a bouncy dog off, as indeed she should. Rosie is fostered with a young child and is marvellous amongst children in general, but would prefer to be the only dog in her new home.

    Find out more about Rosie here

     

    4. Bia!

    This beautiful girl is Bia, a Staffordshire Bull Terrier who is currently in the care of the RSPCA’s Blackberry Farm Animal Centre, Aylesbury, where she’s been for over a year. She has spent almost her whole life in kennels after being removed from her home in January 2014 where she had been tethered in a garden without proper shelter, food or water.

    When Bia came to Blackberry Farm she had a problem with lameness caused by a floating knee cap. She needed an operation to fix it but is now waiting patiently for new owners who can give her the care and attention she needs. She’s looking for an active home where she can go on lots of walks and enjoy playtime. Could this playful bundle of brindle fun be the one for you?

    Find out more about Bia here

     

    5. Smiley Skye

    This lovely girl is at the RSPCA Millbrook Animal Centre, she’s a seven-year-old Staffordshire Bull Terrier. Five months ago poor Skye was abandoned at the RSPCA’s London vet hospital and is still waiting to find a new family who will love her and look after her properly. Skye is very sweet but a little unsure of her new kennel environment. She really is a people dog and loves to have cuddles. The kennel staff describe her as a ‘constant companion’ and say she wants to be friends with any person she meets. She’s lots of fun off lead and absolutely loves playing with footballs.

    Find out more about Skye here

     

    6. Sugar!

    This sweet 2 year old Pug cross girl is Sugar. She’s very Pug like in nature and stamps her feet in true Pug style. She gets very excited but she’s such a young girl, she’ll need a home where she gets plenty of love and exercise.

    She’s a proper little poppet who will repay her new family in buckets with love, laughs and stamps.

    Find out more about Sugar here

     

    If we’ve inspired you to bring a new dog into your home, sign up to the DogsBlog.com Daily Digest eNewsletter to be kept up to date with the latest dogs looking for new homes.

    Register online >> www.dogsblog.com

  • How Good Is Your Dog at Catching?

    We’ll be honest, over the years we’ve had our fair share of dogs who’ve caught something only to then drop it. Bonnie, Chloe and Danny, to name a few.

    Let’s see how Fritz fairs against some brocolli. Watch his related videos to find out how he does vs other foods how can essay writers help you?. We’re all rooting for you Fritz!

  • Her Name is K9 & She Used to be a REAL Fussy Eater – So What Changed?

    Her Name is K9 & She Used to be a REAL Fussy Eater – So What Changed?

    K9, what a great name, eh? This K9 was one of 100 lucky dogs chosen to take part in the Butcher’s 10-Day Taste Challenge last November. Watch her story unfold below…

    Speaking after the challenge her owner Tina, who submitted K9’s entry, said: “I can’t believe that dog food could actually do that to a dog. She had a lot more energy during the Taste Challenge.”

    9 Out of 10 Dogs Love Butcher’s!
     How do we know?

    100 dogs from across the nation participated in the Butcher’s 10-Day Taste Challenge where owners swapped their pet’s normal meals for a variety of recipes from Butcher’s and shared how they got on with 9 out of 10 owners confirming that their “dogs love Butcher’s”, devouring the meaty recipes on offer.

    At Butcher’s Pet Care, we believe dogs will enjoy their dinner so much more when they are served one of our mouth-wateringly meaty meals.

    Why? Because every dinnertime, you’ll be giving your dog a tasty meal made with fresh meat, no artificial flavourings and natural ingredients – guaranteed to get them licking their lips.

    Each delicious recipe has been developed with leading nutritionists so you can be sure your dog is getting all of the meaty proteins, vitamins and minerals they need to be as Fit as a Butcher’s Dog™.

    What’s more, there are no artificial flavourings and no fillers such as soya or wheat, so they are gluten free too. An appetising bowl of Butcher’s has everything that your dog needs and nothing it doesn’t!

    For more information on the 10-Day Taste Challenge and Butcher’s Pet Care, like our Facebook page – or click the button below to visit our website and see more videos of dogs who took part in the Taste Challenge.

  • These Seasonal Habits Could Seriously Harm Your Dog

    These Seasonal Habits Could Seriously Harm Your Dog

    As we venture in to that time of year when seasonal good cheer begins to manifest at the forefront of our minds, it’s worth the effort to remind ourselves of some of the hidden dangers that could turn our dog’s festive spirits decidedly sour.

    Take a look at this list of things to think about over the winter holiday period as they might apply to your own circumstances. Some are hopefully things that you already know but others might just surprise you:

    Food

    • Too much sodium can kill animals, so if you are going to give your pet some of your leftover Christmas dinner, make sure it isn’t covered in salt or gravy.
    • Chocolate is poisonous to dogs: keep your tins of chocolate covered up and don’t put up chocolate tree decorations that your dog can reach.
      Cocktail sticks can get eaten by dogs and cats and end up stuck in their throats or puncture their gut. Be careful what you serve and be careful where you keep party food and rubbish.
    • Mesh that covers your roast meat is often hastily discarded after removing the joint from the oven. If it is left to lie in meat juices it can be gobbled up by cats or dogs when your back is turned. Mesh can cause severe damage to the gut and cause bloat, which is often fatal if medical attention is not sought immediately.

    Decorations

    • Fir trees are poisonous to cats, and cats also like to bite and eat tinsel. Cats, dogs and small mammal pets can bite through wires so be sure to tuck your Christmas tree lights away safely.
    • Holly, ivy, poinsettias and mistletoe are all poisonous to pets.

    General

    • Always supervise dogs with children – no matter how well you think you know your dog and trust it, over-excited children plus all the changes going on in your dog’s surroundings can make even a calm dog snap.
    • Many vet practices are closed over the Christmas period. Before they close, make a note of their emergency service number in case you need it urgently.

    Finally, remember that there undoubtedly will be fireworks let off on New Year’s Eve at midnight in your local area. If your pet is of a nervous disposition then make sure it is kept near you so that you can offer lots of reassurance, and bring all outdoor pets inside.

    Bonus: How To Create a Dog Friendly Christmas Tree

    Creating a Christmas tree that is both beautiful to look at for you and unattractive to your dog is a special challenge. Here are some suggestions to keep your tree pet-friendly.

    1. Tree water at the base of live trees can be harmful if preservative chemicals have been added to prolong the life of the tree. Keep your dog from drinking the water by covering the tree basin with foil or a tree skirt.

    2. Place dog-safe ornaments near the bottom of the tree in case your dog decides to use the ornaments as playthings.

    3. Tie up loose electrical cords of the lights used to decorate the tree and keep them concealed by attaching them with wire or cord to the trunk of the tree. End-to-end lights eliminate individual cords dangling from the tree that might entice your dog to chew them.

    4. If you have lots of tree lights that are not end to end, purchase a power strip in which to plug the lights. Attach the strip to the tree trunk at a level that is higher than the height of your dog. As a result, you will have only one heavy-duty power cord running from the tree to the outlet instead of several flimsy cords from single strings of lights.

    5. To prevent your dog from knocking over your holiday tree, anchor it with cord or wire to the ceiling directly above the tree’s trunk. Don’t attach it with wire to a wall behind the tree because your dog could get caught in the wire if be darts behind the tree.

    6. Spray the tower branches of the tree with bitter apple, cinnamon, lemon, eucalyptus, or other unappealing scents.

    7. Hang your ornaments with ribbons rather than hooks to keep your dog from accidentally swallowing something that could get lodged in his throat.

    8. Do not use tinsel or angel hair on your tree. Angel hair, made of glass fibre, and tinsel, made of metal, can cause internal damage if your dog swallows any.

    9. Avoid decorating your tree with strings of berries or other edible ornaments – many are harmful if swallowed. The string on which they are attached can cause damage to your dog’s intestines if swallowed, and a dog, eager to get to the “treats,” could knock over the tree.

    10. If you like, decorate a small, artificial tree for your dog with items he will find appealing, such as doggie biscuits and dog toys. Hide the tree until you are ready for your dog to open his presents.

  • Dog Names – What’s Popular (& What’s Insane!)

    Dog Names – What’s Popular (& What’s Insane!)

    Like Nostradamus, we’re going in to full on prediction mode here at K9 Magazine

    The annual popular dog names list is always fascinating reading, particularly in retrospect. We’ve also found some truly amazing adoptable dog names (see below).

    It’s great fun to read the previous popular dog names from years gone by, seeing old favourites such as ‘Max’, ‘Ben’ and popular female dog names like ‘Sasha’, ‘Maisy’ and ‘Trudy’ mixed in with Zeitgeist names such as ‘Ga Ga’, ‘Beyonce’ and ‘Britney’.

    puppy photo

    So what can we expect to be amongst the most popular dog names going forward over the next few years?

    Here’s our predictions.

    The Regulars (Most Popular Dog Names of Historical Prominence)

    1. Bella
    ——–
    2. Max
    ——
    3. Bailey
    ———
    4. Lucy
    ——-
    5. Molly
    ——–
    6. Buddy
    ——–
    7. Maggie
    ———
    8. Daisy
    ——–
    9. Chloe
    ——–
    10. Sophie
    ———-

    The New Entrants (Most Popular Dog Names by Trend Predictions)

    1. Lady
    2. Bieber
    3. Kim
    4. Perry
    5. Obama
    6. Shakira
    7. Rhianna
    8. Taylor
    9. Charlie
    10. Kanye

    Comparison With 2008 Most Popular Dog Names (International)

    For both dogs and cats, Max was the most popular name in 2008. Overall, VPI’s data indicates that traditional pet names, such as Fido, have taken a back seat to “people” names like Max. In fact, some of the most popular dog and cat names – Bella, Chloe, Sophie and Bailey – also rank among the Social Security Administration’s most popular baby names.
    Dogs                           Cats
    1. Max                          1. Max
    2. Bailey                        2. Chloe
    3. Bella                          3. Tigger
    4. Molly                         4. Tiger
    5. Lucy                          5. Lucy
    6. Buddy                        6. Smokey
    7. Maggie                      7. Oliver
    8. Daisy                        8. Bella
    9. Sophie                      9. Shadow
    10. Chloe                     10. Charlie

    “Pets are often viewed as members of the family, treated like members of the family and, as a result, named like members of the family,” said Curtis Steinhoff, senior director of corporate communications for VPI. “Max may sleep on his owner’s bed, eat gourmet food and wear clothes to go out on the town. Rover probably does not. Max is short, yet easy to distinguish from common commands, so it is easy to understand why it’s such a popular pet name.”

    This is the sixth consecutive year that Max is the top name for dogs and cats. Since last year’s results, the most notable increase in any name has been Bailey, which was No. 9 in 2007. Other changes in 2008 include the addition of Sophie (No. 9) and Chloe (No. 10) in place of Jake and Rocky for canine names, and Shadow (No. 9) and Charlie (No. 10) in place of Sophie and Princess for feline names. As in 2007, Max joined Lucy and Bella as names popular for both cats and dogs in 2008.

    Only 13 dogs in VPI’s database went by Fido in 2008, placing the name at No. 2,866. Rover wasn’t far behind at No. 2,534. Surprisingly, some dog names are more popular than Rover and Fido were Liebchen, Zowie, Munchie, Ginger Snap, Butchie, Dundee and Grendel. Other classic dog names that ranked low in popularity included Lassie (No. 1,572), Pluto (No. 1,009), Patch (No. 667), Spot (No. 659), Fluffy (No. 338), and Rex (No. 138).

    Besides being the most common name in 2008, Max also owned the distinction of the name with the most variations. VPI’s database includes such Max-inspired pet names as Maximum Max, Max Power, Max Avalanche, Maximus Gladius Spartacus, Minimax, Sergeant Maxwell T. Steel, Max the Moose, Max Crime Fighter, Cherokee Max, Peanut Max, T.J. Maxx, Duramax, Fatmax, Maxmax, Maxator Midnight and Mad Max McNaughty.

    Previous Most Popular Dog Names

    Move over Fido, Buddy is officially the new “top-dog” name. Today, Petfinder.com, the largest online database of adoptable pets, announced its 2011 ranking of the most popular and most unusual names, with an extra category for TV and celebrity “name-a-likes.” For the fifth year in a row, “Buddy” barks at the top as the most trending name for adoptable dogs in 2011, while “Lucy” once again proves to be the purrfect No. 1 choice for adoptable cats.

    The top five most popular names for dogs have all remained the same this year, while cats are a different story: “Smokey” and “Charlie” sniffed their way up to No. 2 and No. 4, respectively, while “Midnight” jumped down to No. 10 after coming in No. 2 for adoptable felines last year. As people everywhere swarmed the theatres and the Twilight saga continued to unfold in 2011, the popularity of the name “Bella” for both adoptable dogs and cats has remained strong since 2010.

    Previous Top 10 Most Popular Dog Names Previous Top 10 Most Popular Cat Names
    1.   Buddy (15,184) 1.   Lucy (4,195)
    2.   Max (13,810) 2.   Smokey (4,105)
    3.   Daisy (12,948) 3.   Bella (3,978)
    4.   Bella (11,773) 4.   Charlie (3,752)
    5.   Lucy (11,418) 5.   Tiger (3,735)
    6.   Molly (11,049) 6.   Oreo (3,574)
    7.   Charlie (10,607) 7.   Daisy (3,371)
    8.   Jack (9,949) 8.   Molly (3,355)
    9.   Sadie (9,232) 9.   Max (3,346)
    10. Rocky (8,475) 10. Midnight (3,273)

    Incredible/Insane/Memorable – Dog Names!

    Most Unusual Adoptable Pet Names Best Celebrity Name-A-Likes
    1.   Dodgy Wodgy Schnookum Doodle 1.   Barry Meow-nilow
    2.   Polly Picklepuss 2.   Katy Purry
    3.   Sukimayapoo 3.   Ally McBeagle
    4.   Iben Hooked 4.   Brad the Pit
    5.   Blue Sparkles McGillicutty 5.   Rascal Catts
    6.   Killer the Dog Dominating Declawed Cat 6.   Ringo Starr
    7.   Purr-etzle 7.   Cindy Clawford
    8.   Fluff Dog Millionaire 8.   Cindy Dogford
    9.   Jimmy Chews 9.   Vera Fang
    10. Ishkabibble 10. Lady Gaga

    Because they are just too cute to ignore, Petfinder.com also handpicked the most unusual, wacky and celebrity-themed names of adoptable pets for 2011 from nearly 300 submissions by shelters and rescue groups across North America. This year’s top creativity honors go to “Dodgy Wodgy Schnookum Doodle” and “Barry Meow-nilow.”

    “Everybody loves to have a Buddy, but many shelters and rescue groups give their adoptable pets creative names to help them stand out from the crowd,” says Betsy Banks Saul, co-founder of Petfinder. “Their names can give a peek into their personalities. For instance, ‘Killer the Dog Dominating Declawed Cat’ speaks for itself. But if your new cat doesn’t respond to his shelter-given name or you can’t imagine yourself hollering for ‘Polly Picklepuss’ at the dog park, never fear. Animal behaviorists tell us it’s okay to change their names. Here’s how: Add their new name to their old name for a few weeks, then gradually phase out the old one.”

    Popular Boy Puppy Names vs Popular Girl Puppy Names

    According to a pet health website’s study, here are the popular dog names for puppies….

    Boy Puppy Names

    Ace – Ace is a human moniker commonly given to dogs. Two of the most famous Aces include dog actor, Ace the Wonder Dog, and Batman’s loyal pooch, Ace the Bat-Hound.
    Aztec – Possibly named after the Aztec civilization, Aztec is not a common moniker for children, making it a unique puppy name (except for the fact that it made our list of popular boy puppy names).
    Max – Max is Latin for “greatest” and a popular baby boy name as well, making it another popular human name for “great” male puppies.
    Byron – Byron is yet another human name, possibly coming from poet Lord Byron, famous for his wildness and debauchery. Byron is a terrific puppy name for any rambunctious pup.
    A.J. – A.J. has become a popular human name in its own right, though originally the initials probably stood for something. Perhaps perfect for the puppy that is an “awesome jumper”?

    Girl Puppy Names

    Bella – Bella is French for “very pretty.” Though these days, girl puppies (and babies) named Bella are likely named after the main character from the widely popular Twilight series of books and movies.
    Abby – Short for Abigail, Abby is consistently one of the more popular girl names given to babies.
    Zoey – Meaning “life” in Greek, who wouldn’t want to name their puppy Zoey? For baby girls, the name has risen in popularity from 409th in 2000 to 47th in 2010.
    Buttons – A long-standing favorite for dog names, Buttons may come from the phrase “cute as a button.”
    Daisy – A daisy is a flower, and a name commonly given to baby girls throughout the 20th century. Daisy’s popularity briefly declined, but is again on the rise.

  • 27 Amazing Dog Training Tips to Remember

    All of us dog owners can identify with that moment where our dog does something that, frankly, we really wish they wouldn’t. Millions, no, billions are spent and earned around the world as a result of dog owners who simply want their beloved canine to behave more appropriately. Here we’ve got 27 foundational dog training tips that you should memorise to your internal hard-drive (that’ll be your brain!). Each excellent in its own way, but together – these are 27 rules that any dog owner will benefit from when it comes to having better behaved, happier dog and owner. Enjoy!

    1. Concentrate on what your dog is doing right. Professional dog trainers everywhere tell their students to reward their dogs when they do something right. This “positive training” method is in contrast to training that centres on punishment. Trainers recommend that owners praise and reward their dogs with treats and affection for good behaviour instead of just scolding them for bad behaviour.

    2. Be proactive and keep your dog from behaving badly in the first place. One of the most important tips that a professional dog trainer will tell his or her students is that good behaviour is not just the responsibility of the dog. The owner must make every effort to avoid giving the dog the ability to engage in bad behaviour while they are still learning the ropes. For example, if you notice that your dog likes to chew, it’s important to make sure that everyone in the home puts their shoes behind closed closet doors to remove temptation.

    3. Stop saying NO! One of the biggest mistakes that people make when training their dogs is saying NO without giving the dog an explanation of some type. Dogs, much like children, will become confused with a simple command of NO! Here’s what you should do instead. If your dog is stealing the cat’s food, tell him NO and then gently guide him to his own food dish. Or, if your dog is chewing on a table leg tell him NO and give him rawhide or another toy on which he can chew. Once your dog begins to actually use the new behaviour, reward him with treats, toys and praise.

    4. Learn the difference between boredom and separation anxiety. It is important to determine whether your dog is misbehaving when you leave home because he is bored, or because he is experiencing a case of separation anxiety. Figuring out why your dog is engaging in bad behaviours is usually the quickest way to combat the problem. If boredom seems to be the issue, you can probably keep your dog from destroying your house during alone time by providing him a toy stuffed with treats or something else that will help exercise his mind a little. If separation anxiety is the problem, you will need to learn ways to desensitise your dog to not only your absence, but also your “preparing to leave” routine.

    5. Consider trying clicker training. Clicker training is a relatively new technique in the dog training world and involves the owner using a specific sound to indicate to their dog that a particular behaviour is acceptable or desired. The owner will repeat the “click” and then reward their dog for his or her good behaviour. The positive feedback will encourage the dog to repeat the good behaviour.

    6. Be patient, persistent and consistent. These three behaviours on the part of an owner will develop similar behaviours in a dog. Patience means that you understand that learning new behaviours may take some time and a lot of practice and repetition. Persistence means that you, as the owner, do not give up when training does not seem to be going well. Consistent means that your dog knows what to expect from you. For example, if you always say NO when your dog is misbehaving, they learn to recognise NO as a sign of disapproval. Conversely, if you only give treats for good behaviour, your dog will learn to recognise such positive feedback.

    7. Start early. As soon as you get a dog, you should begin training in some capacity. If you are getting a late start, it may take some time to catch up. The key to remember is that training is often nothing more than reversing bad habits and behaviours. If your dog is young, they haven’t had a chance to develop a significant number of these bad behaviours and training will be simple. With an older dog, you really have to unteach everything the dog knows about behaviour and start to reteach behaviours that you find acceptable.

    8. Be kind and gentle for best results. An owner who constantly punishes his or her dog for bad behaviours is bound to be a lot less successful than an owner who is gentle and kind, rewarding his or her dog for acceptable behaviours. Consider offering your dog plenty of praise, and be gentle when redirecting his attention from a bad behaviour to one that is more acceptable to you.

    9. Have reasonable expectations. For example, if your dog misbehaves at home you are wise to expect that he will misbehave at the dog park or in the yard. Therefore, if your dog is having trouble paying attention to your commands you will want to make sure to keep him on a leash when outside. If your dog jumps on people in the house, expect that he will be rough with other dogs. You can reverse these behaviours through positive training, but you need to realise that bad behaviours will most likely continue regardless of the circumstances until they have been unlearned by your dog.

    10. Always enforce your commands. If you give commands, but do not enforce them, your dog will learn that there is no reason to listen to you. On the other hand, if you back up your commands with reinforcement he will quickly learn that you mean business. For example, if you tell your dog to sit and he ignores you, gently push him into the desired position and praise him. Always praise good behaviour as a means of enforcing your commands.

    11. Use the ONE command rule. Only give your dog each command one time. If you want your dog to sit, tell him SIT! If your dog decides to ignore the command the first time, gently place him into the sit position and then praise him. Do this with every command, so that your dog doesn’t think that your commands are optional. Stick to the ONE command rule, and your dog will quickly learn to take your commands seriously.

    12. Clearly define your commands. If you expect your dog to follow commands, then it is imperative that he understands what it is that you want him to do. For example, if you are trying to teach him to sit you will only confuse him if one time you use the command SIT and the next time SIT DOWN. If he’s confused he’ll most likely just ignore you. And this can lead to a vicious cycle. So, pay attention to the commands you are teaching and don’t confuse your dog by being inconsistent.

    13. Teach your dog to read your tone. Tone is just as important as the actual command that you are giving. Therefore, try to always use a consistent tone when issuing a command. Yelling a command will be less effective than just using a firm and authoritative tone. Pick a tone, and stick with it. Your dog will begin to recognise that tone, and respond to what you are telling him more effectively.

    14. Analyse stubbornness. If you find that your dog is stubborn and does not want to listen to your commands, there may be a simple explanation. Look for signs to see whether you are giving commands that your dog understands, whether your dog knows what to do when they hear a certain command and whether the command is creating an uncomfortable feeling in your dog. Most likely, you need to simply repeat training for a specific command and make your dog feel more comfortable through rewards and praise.

    15. Never use your dog’s name in anger. You should try to reprimand your dog without using his name so that there is no negative association with the name itself. When you praise your dog, call him by name so that the dog responds happily when he is called by name. You may find that simply using the dog’s name will get him to come to you eagerly in just a short period of time.

    16. Earn the respect of your dog. If you hit or scream at your dog, he will quickly lose respect for you. And instead of becoming a loving companion, will become reserved and fearful. Therefore, be sure to avoid training when you are in a bad mood and avoid negative reinforcement whenever possible. Staying upbeat will make your dog more willing to do whatever it is that you expect from him and help the two of your form a good relationship.

    17. Never use a training technique that is not natural and comfortable for you. If you are using a technique that does not come naturally, your dog will sense your hesitation as quickly as he will sense fear or anxiety. This can lead to your dog ignoring any commands given and cause frustration for both of you. Therefore, work to find techniques that you understand and feel comfortable with before starting to train your dog.

    18. Consider an obedience training class. There is no shame in asking for help with training your dog. Some people are simply not equipped to train their dog on their own, either due to a lack of patience, inexperience or not enough knowledge. Investigate different obedience training classes in your area and sit in on a few to determine whether or not they might work for you.

    19. Consider a training club. Some kennel associations offer training clubs to their members and the general public. These groups will often allow member access to professional trainers, and the knowledge of other members. Some breeds are more difficult to train than others, and having this type of resource available may be an excellent asset to your own training program.

    20. Learn about your dog’s breed. Different dog breeds may respond better to different methods of training. Dogs of different sises may also require different types of training. For example, if you have a small terrier who likes to jump it is less dangerous to all involved than if you have a St. Bernard that weighs in at 150 pounds who likes to jump! You will need to concentrate on different areas with different breeds and sises of dogs, and knowing what to expect is half of the battle.

    21. See yourself as the team leader during training. You are not the only one responsible for successful training sessions. If you see yourself and your dog as a team in training, you will be much more successful than if you assume the burden of all responsibility. You need to be aware of everything that goes on during training, because you are the leader. However, realise that your dog must be a willing participant for training to succeed.

    22. Remain calm and relaxed. Your dog will sense fear, anger and anxiety. Therefore, in order to be effective you must stay calm. Issue commands in an authoritative voice and be firm and consistent to keep your dog’s attention. Any behaviour on your part that is out of the ordinary will keep him from staying focused and reduce the effectiveness of your training efforts.

    23. Be consistent. If you aren’t serious about wanting your dog to perform or stop a specific action, then do not issue the command. Otherwise, you are going to teach your dog that you only mean what you say some of the time. This will lead to confusion on your dog’s part and frustration on yours. It’s much easier to only issue commands that you will enforce.

    24. Recognise and respect your dog’s needs. Just like people, you will find that when a dog’s basic needs are not being met he will misbehave more often. Be sure that you are providing quality food, plenty of water, constructive socialisation with people and other pets, adequate shelter and safety and lots of exercise. When these needs are met, teaching your dog the basics will be much easier.

    25. Practice, practice, practice. Practice makes perfect, isn’t that what your mom always said? Well, dog training is no exception! If you’re going to work on training your dog, make sure that you practice consistently for several 5-10 minute intervals throughout the day. Focus on practicing one skill at a time until your dog has mastered it and then move on to something new. Be sure to revisit already learned tricks and behaviours regularly though so they are not forgotten.

    26. Expose your dog, slowly over time, to different situations. It is critical to emphasise to your dog that you expect him to behave consistently regardless of his surroundings. One of the best ways to do this is to socialise with your dog. Introduce him to new people and other animals (dogs, cats, etc.) so that he learns to be social. Take him into unfamiliar surroundings whenever feasible so that he learns that regardless of where he is you are still there and in charge. This will allow you to have more effective control, and will alleviate anxiety caused by unfamiliar people and surroundings that can lead to misbehaviour in the future.

    27. Find out what works. Not every child learns the same way, and not every dog learns the same way. Therefore, you should attempt to use different training techniques until your find one that you are comfortable with, and that works with your particular dog. The general rule to remember is that if a technique isn’t working after a week, you should try something else.

  • Gluten Free Dog Food UK

    Gluten free dog food UK options are more popular today than ever. Following international pet food recalls and a wider awareness of dog allergies related to nutrition (caused by gluten, corn and other stimulants), more and more UK dog owners are seeking gluten free diets for their canine companions.

    Gluten Free Dog Food UK

    Feeding gluten free dog food to your canine friend would naturally lower its predisposition for diseases such as diabetes, celiac disease, allergies, and chronic and degenerative diseases.

    As a gluten free diet is closer to that of what a dog would eat in the wild, the dog is able to process thier food more effectively, bringing about results such as increased energy and activity and decrease in arthritic pain and symptoms related to digestive system complaints.

    One of the more common dog food allergens is wheat or, more specifically, the gluten in wheat. Dogs can have gluten allergies like humans as well. Luckily there are gluten free dog food products on the market that can alleviate this problem. Gluten is a protein that is found in wheat.
    Some people and dogs are allergic to this protein. There is also gluten found in rye and barely so if these ingredients are found in your dog’s dog food then your dog may also present an allergic reaction to those too.

    Even though some firms call their dog food’s ingredients gluten-free if it doesn’t have wheat or grain, you really want one that’s oat, barley, and rye free too. Celiac disease – the inability to digest gluten) is more common in people and animals that formerly thought. Having raised a child with celiac, I have had to learn all about this.

    A few years ago there was a huge pet food recall due to a contaminated form of gluten that contained a compound called melamine, which can be fatal to animals and humans.

    It was a very tragic time as a lot of dogs that ate the infected food ended up dieting. Ever since then, the issue of gluten has become a very popular topic, and the question always arises of how beneficial gluten free dog food actually is. Humans are prone to a type of disease known as celiac disease, which is also less formally known as gluten allergies. What most people don’t know though is that dogs can develop celiac disease just as easily, which is why monitoring gluten intake is a very important aspect of your dog’s health.

    Many dogs may also experience allergic reactions to corn. Symptoms of such reactions may include irritation of the skin, ear infections, bloating, inflammation of the kidneys and liver, head tremors, hair loss, hyperthyroidism and heart diseases. Moles and warts may also develop on the skin and even loss of hearing can occur. Dog foods that do not contain corn are also usually gluten free dog food and are rich in protein. When purchasing dog food, it is important to read the labels and examine the three ingredients that are listed first. These ingredients comprise of 75 per cent of the content of the food and as such are the most important.

    Gluten allergies are not deadly, but they can be very debilatating for your dog, and if it is the case that gluten is the cause of the problem, a high gluten diet will obviously aggravate the situation. Many vets will prescribe a gluten free dog food for your dog, but it is quite possible to make your own using natural, gluten free ingredients.

     Gluten Free Further Reading

    Gluten-Free Diet Fad: Are Celiac Disease Rates Actually Rising?

    What’s Eating You? Maybe It’s What You’re Eating

  • Dog Attacks -Why Blaming Breeds is Missing The Point

    Dog Attacks -Why Blaming Breeds is Missing The Point

    Dog bites are, in the main, avoidable and a better understanding of dog body language can help us get somewhere near to understanding the reasons and motivations for dog bites and serious dog attacks.

    Before we begin though, let’s ask – and try to answer – the question of whether dog bites are a breed specific problem.

    Dog Bites: A Breed Specific Problem?

    Across dog walking hot spots you will find a mixture of breeds, shapes, and sizes, often allowed to roam around off their leads in the open spaces.

    It can be very intimidating when a big, strong, dog approaches you and after a rise in the number of attacks by the popular pet, many people are calling for new measures to make sure that dogs are kept on leads. But are dogs being given a bad reputation unfairly?

    I myself am terrified if a large dog comes up to me as I walk my Collie cross on open fields near my home. However this never used to be the case.

    Around four years ago my family bought home a young male Weimaraner from the local dog’s home. At first everything was fine but after a few weeks things turned nasty. He went on to bite three members of the family, including me, meaning that we sadly had to send him back to the dog’s home.

    It was especially heartbreaking, as 99% of the time he was a normal, loving dog. Something seemed to snap in his mind, he’d have five minutes of savageness then return to being nice and look up at you with his soppy sad eyes. In my opinion this could only be put down to how he was brought up. The same as if a human was treated badly it could have effects later on in their lives and on their mental state.

    Despite how much I loved him and felt sorry for him it is the reason why I would never be able to trust a big, strong dog again. Just in case. I still hold the scars from his attack, and know that to have a dog’s jaw clenched around you is one of the most terrifying things that I have ever experienced.

    The argument for keeping dog’s on a lead is simple. A dog can turn nasty at any time, and recent reports of family pets turning on children is a clear example of this. When I am out walking my dog not only am I in fear for myself but also for my dog, as she is small, not big built, and would not stand a chance if attacked by a big dog, an increasingly likely event in today’s society in which many dogs are bread to attack.

    One breed in particular that has developed a bad reputation is the Staffordshire Bull Terrier. At all the local dogs homes inside almost every kennel is a dog of this breed or a Staffordshire Bull Terrier cross, with the amount of Rottweilers not far behind.

    Voluntary group and registered charity, Animal Lifeline, based in Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire has saved over 10,000 dogs since it was founded over thirty years ago. The group never puts a dog down and always has at least 100 dogs in its kennels waiting to be re-homed.

    Nick Fletcher from the centre explains why he thinks so many of these breeds get brought in: “We get all types of dogs in though there is a higher proportion of Staffies than there used to be. This is because the Staffy has become a fashion accessory for many young people, mainly young men. They then find that either the dog isn’t as fierce as they thought, and want to get rid of it, or their circumstances change, particularly if they have a partner. Young couples often have a dog until they have a baby, then they want to dump the dog. Also, many couples split up after a while and return to parents or go into rented accommodation, where they cannot keep a dog.”

    It seems that like with a lot of things in today’s world looks are more important than the dog’s behaviour.

    Nick added: “People often select a dog because of its looks, so smaller prettier dogs are always the first to be homed. Lovely dogs with nice temperaments are often ignored and remain in kennels for months just because they are plain in appearance.”

    It can be easily seen why these people think they look tough with one of these dogs when they are basically being used as a weapon. Some dogs go on to be re-homed and make loving family pets but others will never find a home ever again because of their vicious mentality from their upbringing.

    Despite their bad reputation, created through the media, Staffordshire Bull Terriers are in fact known as a trustworthy animal and sometimes referred to as the ‘Nanny Dog’ for their great affection towards children. Owners of so called ‘status dogs’ believe the facts and figures used in today’s news stories about dog attacks are unfair as the majority of attacks by smaller breeds go unreported.

    Daniel Berrisford, from Stoke-on-Trent, has owned two Staffordshire Bull Terriers and agrees that the negative press towards the breed is unfair.

    “I think the Staffordshire Bull Terrier is the same as any other dog; it all depends on how you bring them up as to how they turn out. If you bring a Staffy up to fight then they have the mentality to fight, however if you bring a Staffy up as a loving house dog that is what they will become. Both of the Staffies that I have had would not hurt anyone and I believe it is because they were brought up like that. I think that if you bring them up in the right way you will not find a more loyal and loving dog.

    “Some owners only have a Staffy or other strong dogs because they want to bring it up to fight and attack but I think that you could find any breed that has attacked somebody, so for a Staffy to have a particularly bad reputation is ridiculous.

    “Little dogs often come up to larger dogs and go to attack them, even if they are on a lead but because the bigger dog retaliates and can do more damage they get the blame. Smaller dogs should be kept on a lead just the same because they can cause just as much trouble.”

    The truth is that no dog should be branded a vicious breed when the victims of most attacks do not recognise the exact breed so stick to what they know, and certain dogs get the blame, the reason why there are no real statistics for dog attacks in this country.

    It is also difficult to distinguish what actually is an ‘attack’. A recent incident in my area occurred in which the police were involved as a dog had knocked somebody over and ripped a coat. A total accident in which the dog was playing, but accused of a vicious attack just for being a big animal.

    The truth is that however much the media tries to scare people about our favourite furry friends, the increase in ‘attacks’ has not risen that much and that dog attacks and collisions involving children have actually declined by approximately 18% over the last 10 years.

    With a UK dog population of around eight million, it is an issue that cannot be ignored. Measures need to be brought in to deal with the irresponsible owners who are giving all dogs a bad name, and to protect the public from them so that we can feel safe around the nation’s most popular pet again.

    K9 Magazine editor Ryan O’Meara outlines his thesis for our misunderstanding of canine behaviour, body language and intentions as a primary motivating factor in our failure to spot the warning signs of dog aggression.

    Understanding Canine Aggression

    In this report, you will learn about:

    Understanding errors of interpretation
    Understanding motives for aggressive behaviour
    Understanding how to minimise risk

    Summary:
    Misinterpretation of canine signals, body language and emotions due to anthropomorphic tendencies.

    Why do humans feel the need to attribute human qualities to animals in order to better understand or accept them?

    What emotions do dogs have? What we happen to presume about what dogs think is, by definition, open to interpretation and in reality unless dogs learn to talk we shall never actually know what dogs think, although we can, will and should speculate. Dogs dream, we therefore conclude they have ‘imagination’ what they dream about, we do not know. As much as we may not like to admit it, we understand dogs a lot less than we realise.

    Can dogs have a social conscience? If not they can’t possibly understand or display emotions such as guilt, shame, jealousy etc – all of which are traits often attributed to dogs in an increasingly anthropomorphic society which is conditioned to believe everything from gloved Disney mice to the socially conscious tales of Lassie. It’s little wonder we grew up with such a distorted view of animal emotions, motives and drives.

    It is my finding, having studied many dogs of different breeds in different environments that, whilst dogs are exceptionally responsive to our own emotions and body language, their own emotional spectrum is significantly different. This can be best addressed by asking the simple question; Does my dog really love me?

    Does My Dog Love Me?

    Considering how complex it is for us to understand such a powerful and misunderstood concept in humans, who have the power of speech and the written word to explain themselves, it is surprising how many of us assume that our dogs love us, love being with us and show loyalty to us for reasons equitable to those of a fellow human.

    The most probable answer is dogs do not ‘love us’ in the sense that we love them. They are hard-wired to appease us, to fit in with us and to display behaviours which suit us and our needs – it is the fact that we love them for this which often mistranslates as them performing these behaviours because they love us back.

    It is my view that canine emotions are expressed in basic forms. They may display many variations of these basic emotions. A dog can be fearful – and this can often be misinterpreted as guilt or shame. A dog may be fearful of losing rank, status or a tried and tested route to food – and this can often me misinterpreted as jealousy or envy of other dogs or people – it is still a demonstration of a variant of basic fear behaviour.

    It is us who attribute our social values and emotional structure to dogs in order to try and make them easier to understand. It is the dog’s unique ability to allow us to believe this that has to be part responsible for their successful relationship with man. The dog will be, whatever we want him to be. This is an error in translation.

    After all, if we were truly looking for a companion animal whose emotions were closely linked to our own, surely we would have domesticated the apes and we would now be talking about man’s best friend as a small, domesticated monkey. After all they have many of the same skills that dogs have, they are superior in intelligence, dexterity and trainability.

    Could it be that the reason dogs have slotted their paws so firmly under the table of man is because we can attribute any emotion they display as we please? If we say it, we can believe it to be true – with a dog – but with an ape, perhaps it is the fact that they ARE so much like us that it is harder for us to enjoy such a mutually fulfilling relationship with them?

    The dog, for want of a better description, will be anything we want him to be. They will play the role of court jester or funeral mourner, if they think it’s what we want. Perhaps it is this for reason alone that they have become the most successful socially domesticated animals on the planet. It is also possibly the reason why the more we think we know about them, the more we are kidding ourselves.

    The dog is, in my opinion, a still largely misunderstood animal. We control their environment, their diet, their stimulation, their entire lives – it’s little wonder they feel compelled to ‘love’ us.

    The perception problem: Dogs see our world from a different perspective. We can look at the same object or experience the same situations but our and their perception of both can be entirely different. There are various reasons for this. To understand what it is to see the world through the eyes of a dog we need to first accept the physical differences.

    They spend their lives between putting their nose to the ground and their eyes gazing upwards. For a dog, life is not conducted at eye level (like us) it is a story happening underfoot and events happen from way on high above. This very fact alone gives us a sense of different the world appears to a dog.

    We fail to acknowledge such a fundamental difference in perspective at our own peril. Understanding and accepting this literal matter of fact helps us to try and see things from the dog’s perspective. In the world of the dog, people are most often regarded as friends or are observed as neutral, non threatening animals. However, not all dogs share this view of all people and it is an extremely serious error for any person to assume it.

    Motives for aggression in dogs can vary and are dependent on a number of key factors.

    Genetics / breeding
    Social development in key life-stages
    Environmental factors
    Behavioural conditioning / reinforcement
    Perspective problems / misjudging situations
    Misdirection of drives

    A dog’s genetic make-up and breeding is a factor too often overlooked in instances where the less ‘extreme’ purpose bred dogs are concerned. A relative novice is inclined toward understanding that a Siberian Husky will not make an ideal pet for an owner who leads a largely urban lifestyle with little or no opportunity to provide regular opportunities for mental and physical stimulation.

    However where the edges begin to blur are with breeds (or cross breeds where breeding is unknown) which can often present an image which entices novice owners toward them without properly understanding the very specific lifestyle requirements the dog is likely to demand.

    It is the case in my experience that there are many dogs produced by people who do not have sufficient skills, experience or desire to fully comprehend the importance of identifying the suitability of the people they are supplying dogs to. Similarly, many dogs are bred with little or no attention paid to the quality of temperament within their breeding stock. Hence there is a perpetual problem – in select numbers – where unsuitable breeders supply unsuitable dogs to unsuitable new owners. Addressing this issue within the structure of existing UK legislation is not possible.

    Coming back to the central theme of under-prepared dog owners, failure to place significant emphasis or attention on the key life-stage development of dogs is a monumental failing.

    A Dog’s Key Life-Stage Phases:

    Aged between 6 and 16 weeks (extremely important)
    Aged between 16 weeks and 6 months (important)
    Aged between 6 months and 14 months (VITAL!)

    The average day of the average dog is spent waiting for stimulation or events which can break up the monotony of the dog’s normal routine. In some dogs, attempts to stimulate themselves or indeed relieve boredom can manifest in displays of destruction or even aggression. An owner’s failure to properly recognise the signs of problem behaviour, especially displays of aggression – even as a puppy – can encourage the dog to condition itself to responding to certain environmental events with aggression. Small, relatively unimportant events can spark an extreme response in a dog where inappropriate behaviour is left unchecked.

    Aggressive behaviours can be the result of misdirected drives.

    Example Scenario:
    A young dog – for the purpose of this example we shall say a West Highland Terrier – develops a habit of getting excited at 4.00pm each week day when the school children walk by on their way home.

    His initial response is curiosity as a result of what he sees an exciting visual stimulus in his otherwise relatively stimulation-free day. On some occasions the children notice the attention the dog is giving them and they tease him. His response is to bark and jump up at the front door.

    Over time this conditioned behaviour worsens. Each day he starts to bark, jump and claw at the door as soon as he sees any children in school uniform walking past. His owner’s response to this behaviour is to shout at him as and when he starts barking and jumping up at the door. His owner doesn’t re-direct the behaviour or address it in any other way other than to occasionally shout. Eventually the inevitable happens and the dog manages to escape through the front door when a visitor is leaving the house. He runs out in to the street and bites the first school child he reaches. His owner insists he has never done anything like this before (failing to recognise he had never had the chance before).

    This scenario above is a simple example of how behaviour left unchecked can result in an actual attack. The dog has displayed a clear misdirection of an intense prey drive which was initially piqued as a result of an unstimulated lifestyle and escalated as a result of both the uncontrollable element of the children who teased him but exacerbated by his owner’s shouting in response to his barking, which the dog reads as either a reward for his behaviour or sees it as his owner ‘joining in’ with his behaviour.

    The problem is confounded as the dog’s owner has failed to grasp the dog’s perspective of what is happening at 4.00pm each day – whilst his owner sees the behaviour as the dog just letting off some steam for 5 minutes per day, the dog’s perspective of the situation is far more serious – he is seeing the school children is prey items which should be pursued vigorously. The dog’s owner has not recognised the ‘value’ placed on the school children by the dog.

    The example scenario shows a failure to provide the dog with sufficient daily stimulation, a fundamental misinterpretation of the dog’s emotions (believing him to be ‘letting off steam’), a perspective problem (not recognising how the dog is viewing the school children) and a failure to re-direct a very prominent prey drive behaviour, resulting in a completely avoidable dog attack.

    Aggressive behaviour should always, without any exception, be referred to professionals starting with an assessment by a veterinarian to check that there is no medical issue causing the dog’s behaviour.

    The key to educating the public about aggressive behaviours in dogs is to impress on dog owners the need for the following:

    Initially be aware of how to identify a responsible, high quality dog breeder or rescue shelter
    Learn to understand canine emotions and body language. Avoid anthropomorphic errors.
    Be aware of the importance of critical key-life stages in the dog’s development
    Understand and implement bite inhibition techniques early and maintain them
    Provide sufficient stimulation and recognise the role environmental conditioning plays
    Understand canine drives and redirect undesirable behaviour as soon as it manifests

    In simple terms:

    Learn to understand the dog, don’t assume. Provide exercise and stimulation appropriate to the breed and the dog’s individual personality. Learn to recognise misdirected drive. In even simpler terms: dog bites and dog aggression are not breed specific, they are dog (and owner) specific. Dogs are the product of their genetics, upbringing and environment. Irresponsible supply of dogs is a major contributory factor as is the continuing failure to properly understand how dogs think, why they behave as they do and, more crucially, a failure to spot early warning signs of aggression or, more unforgivably, a failure to take appropriate action as and when a dog does show signs of aggression. Risk assessment is often poor in cases of serious dog attacks on children. Owners often misplace trust in their pets when they have no good reason to, particularly if a dog has never been exposed to certain scenarios in the past (e.g. young children visiting the home of a dog who is not used to them).

    Dog bites and dog attacks can be largely avoided. Breed bans have been a monumental failure to address the problem of serious and fatal attacks and serve as an ongoing reminder that it’s not just dog owners who misunderstand the primary causes of dog bites, legislators are as guilty of this and that, quite frankly, is unacceptable. If we really want to understand and reduce dog bites, we have to do more to better understand our dogs, properly train them and put ourselves in a position to understand and mitigate risk factors.

    © Ryan O’Meara. All rights reserved.
    You may re-distribute this white paper
    provided all credits and attributions are maintained.

  • Do Dogs Get Jealous?

    Do Dogs Get Jealous?

    According to some new research by scientists, they do. Dogs do get jealous? Really?

    Personally, I don’t believe they do and I’ll explain more about that in a moment. But first let us look at the new research done in the name of science.

    The experiment consisted of taking pairs of dogs and getting them to present a paw for a reward. On giving this “handshake” the dogs received a piece of food.

    One of the dogs was then asked to shake hands, but received no food. The other dog continued to get the food when it was asked to perform the task.

    The dog without the reward quickly stopped doing the task, and showed signs of annoyance or stress when its partner was rewarded.

    To make sure that the experiment was really showing the interaction between the dogs rather than just the frustration of not being rewarded, a similar experiment was conducted where the dogs performed the task without the partner. Here they continued to present the paw for much longer.

    Dr Frederike Range from the department of neurobiology and cognition research at the University of Vienna, says this shows that it was the presence of the rewarded partner which was the greater influence on their behaviour.

    “The only difference is one gets food and the other doesn’t, they are responding to being unequally rewarded.” she said.

    The researchers say this kind of behaviour, where one animal gets frustrated with what is happening with another, has only been observed in primates before.

    Studies with various types of monkeys and chimpanzees show they react not only to seeing their partners receiving rewards when they are not, but also to the type of reward.

    The dog study also looked at whether the type of reward made a difference. Dogs were given either bread or sausage, but seemed to react equally to either. Dr Range says this may be because they have been trained.

    “It’s through the fact they have to work for the reward, this confers it with a higher value,” she said.

    Source Here

    Let’s take a look at this in smaller chunks.

    The dog without the reward quickly stopped doing the task, and showed signs of annoyance or stress when its partner was rewarded.

    Well of course. Surely we wouldn’t expect anything different here? The dog wants the food and it sees the other dog with the food and it gravitates toward the treat. This is quite logical, nothing ground breaking yet.

    To make sure that the experiment was really showing the interaction between the dogs rather than just the frustration of not being rewarded, a similar experiment was conducted where the dogs performed the task without the partner. Here they continued to present the paw for much longer.

    Yes, again this surely to be expected? Here we have a dog with no distraction, no food or other dog in the equation and it makes logical sense that most dogs will perform differently in a situation where no distraction – of any kind – is present. This, again, does not prove jealousy as we understand it.

    Dr Frederike Range from the department of neurobiology and cognition research at the University of Vienna, says this shows that it was the presence of the rewarded partner which was the greater influence on their behaviour.

    Now we’re veering in to some strange territory. Let us imagine this experiment but with some different parameters.

    We work with just one dog, no other dog in the area.

    The dog gives its paw. Then a person will come in to the room and puts some food on the floor near to where the other dog would have been positioned positioned.

    Would the dog now be less interested in giving paw and more interested in food?

    In my opinion, yes. Most likely.

    Now repeat the same scenario but don’t have anyone put food down.

    It’s my supposition that the dog would hold paw for longer.

    No other dog present, no jealousy – merely distraction causing reaction.

    The dog study also looked at whether the type of reward made a difference. Dogs were given either bread or sausage, but seemed to react equally to either. Dr Range says this may be because they have been trained.

    Dogs like different foods. And scientists didn’t know this?

    Take my own dog Mia. She loathes banana. My other dog, Chloe, on the other hand loves fruit. So if I’m eating a banana Mia will sit for a while, realise what I’ve got and then go and lie down. Chloe will stay sitting next to me, watching until I’ve finished. I’m not a scientist but I do know this – it’s……wait for it………

    ……because Chloe likes banana and Mia doesn’t!

    Given that Mia is by far the greedier of my two dogs it proves that dogs clearly have different tastes the same as we do, this is – I would guess – pretty universal. Maybe your dog loves a type of food that my dogs don’t. Maybe your dogs go mad for aniseed whereas my dogs love cheese. Just a sec, wait. Not a good comparison – aniseed and cheese are pretty much universal ‘must eats’ on the canine menu (if your dog likes neither, please let me know – in the name of science).

    So, if I set out to train Mia with bananas as my choice of reward for her, I’d achieve less impressive results – quite simply because Mia doesn’t like banana. She places a higher value on food that she likes, similarly toys and similarly different ways of being touched – Mia doesn’t like to be stroked on the head, Chloe will take a good head stroking for several hours. So we’ve still not established jealousy in canines with this research based on the report as presented on the BBC site.

    Studies with various types of monkeys and chimpanzees show they react not only to seeing their partners receiving rewards when they are not, but also to the type of reward.

    OK. Well I’m not a scientist but I do know that monkeys and chimps are NOT dogs. They can and indeed probably do have emotions much more closely aligned to the emotion we recognise in ourselves as jealousy, similarly they have different social structures and are NOT dogs. So the relevance of this is no more apt than saying: “Well humans have jealousy, why can’t dogs?”

    Why do I not believe dogs share the emotion we recognise in ourselves as jealousy?

    If we think about what jealousy is, if we are logical about what we know about this emotion it is incredibly complex and based on a whole level of social elements.

    There are humans who feel jealousy based on widely different factors – is that an innate personality trait in them or is it nurtured? – we don’t really know.

    We have humans within the autistic spectrum who simply do not and can not feel jealous and others within that same spectrum who can be wildly jealous. It’s true that even scientists themselves still haven’t universally agreed a definition for what jealously is! That’s how complex this particular emotion is. What does it take to be jealous? It takes two people very, very different reasons to be jealous, even people within the same family who share almost identical genetics. Yet put two people in a room and mimic the ‘paw test’ and we’d never get close to seeing universal results proving jealous responses in people – we’re too different and jealousy is an emotion that does not run through us all in an identical fashion. So why should it in dogs?

    I absolutely do not doubt for a single, solitary second that they display behaviour which is very easy for us to compare with the emotion of jealousy that we recognise in ourselves. It could be displayed in acts of resource guarding, it could be manifested by dogs who are particularly greedy, territorial, pack motivated, rank motivated – but jealousy it is not. It is quite possible that I want to get my bosses’ job and sit in his chair, in his office and take home his salary but I am not motivated even in the slightest by jealousy, I simply want to do better for myself. Dogs the same. So a dog going to another dog getting rewarded is absolutely not proof positive – in my view – that we’ve cracked the canine jealousy code, we haven’t even cracked ours yet – and we can SPEAK!

    Anthropomorphism is rife. Most of the time it’s harmless but sometimes it’s nothing more than us finding another way to say: “I don’t understand my dog but I’ll bracket a particular behaviour by benchmarking it against my own”. This is, plainly, crazy. And it can lead to problems.

    It will be better for dogs and better for us if we make an effort to better understand them. But always, always, always start that voyage of discovery with one overriding caveat: Dogs are no more human than we are Zebra. They are dogs. They ARE unique and we love them for it. They are masters at making us think what they want us to think. Their understanding of human body language is an art we’re not even close to mastering. Take this example:

    Person comes home. Dog has wrecked the post (again). There it is, all laid out scattered over the floor.

    Owner opens the door.

    “Huuuuhhh!!!! What have you done???”

    “Oh, look at him. Look at that face. Look how guilty he looks.”

    (wait for it)

    “He know what he’s done!”

    Sound familiar?

    Of course he doesn’t ‘know what he’s done’ and he absolutely may ‘look guilty’ but that aint guilt he’s showing, that’s him spotting body langauage and going to fear/survival mode. He’s pretty much saying: “If you want me to look guilty, if that’s the pigeonhole you want to put me in right now, so long as it means I don’t come to any harm, I’ll do a better guilty repertoire than Laurence Olivier if it makes you happy babe!”

    And makes us happy it most certainly does. We might feel guilt for chewing through our family’s latest edition of K9 Magazine (subscribe now) but that’s because we have an understanding of how our actions will have a future negative effect on the mood of our human counterparts. Our dog, however, he was just bored and he wanted something to do. Then we come home and we’re – clearly – pretty mad at him. He’s not feeling guilty, he’s feeling plain old scared. But it makes us happy to think he thinks like us. To quote the chairman of the Kennel Club: “I don’t need no scientists telling me….” that dogs do not, in fact, think like us. They think, surprisingly, like dogs. That’s what makes em’ great!

  • Dog Leash Training Guide

    So, you’d like to know how to stop your dog pulling on the lead?

    Glorious summer days. The sounds of birds tweeting. Beautiful scenery all around….all completely overshadowed by the hound from hell dragging you at a pace you didn’t choose, in fact at a pace you can barely keep up with!

    Taking the dog for a walk is supposed to be a joy but with the dog who pulls on the leads, it becomes more of a hand chaffing nightmare!

    Let’s take a look at the steps we can take to learn how to stop a dog pulling on the lead.

    Stop Dog Pulling: Leads, Collars & Getting The Right Equipment

    Canine psychologist Natalka Jacyszyn – author of this report on ‘How to cure lead pulling in dogs‘ recommends using a flat collar and a nylon or rope lead, something that is comfortable for both you and your dog. Do not use an extending lead for training as you will find that you may not have enough control.

    Dog Leash Training

    Getting the equipment right is as crucial as teaching the desirable heel walking position using positive rewards.

    Having a dog that pulls is one thing, but having a dog that’s able to pull due to an owner using incorrect lead and collar set up is only going to make matters much, much worse.

    Dog Leash Training: Using a Clicker to Cure Lead Pulling

    Clickers are a fun and fast way to speed up your puppy’s learning process. Clicker training relies on behavior shaping principles that mark desired behavior.

    With clicker training, timing is everything. You must capture the exact moment your dog is doing something right. Also start thinking in terms of stage-by-stage training. Let’s say I want to teach my dog to make a left circle. I sit with my dog and click when my dog takes one step to the left. That’s stage one. Then I hold out my click for two steps, then three, then a full circle.

    Training this way definitely takes longer than pulling my dog in a circle, but once my dog figures out the sequence, he’s doing a circle with far more zest and enthusiasm than if I tugged him around and around.

    The second secret of clicker training: Don’t attach a spoken command to behavior until your dog has figured out what is making the clicker work. To explain, think of the behavior Sit. Each time your dog sits, click and reward.

    Getting the dog used to the concept of associating the click noise with a positive reward is how you achieve the best response when teaching the dog the desired behaviour to cure lead pulling problems.

    Tip: You do not begin with the clicker on correcting the lead pulling until you have properly established the positive response reaction with the dog by rewarding small, simple behaviours – such as sitting and coming when called.

    The Basics of Training Positive Behavior in Dogs

    Training any new desired dog behaviour follows a simple six-step method. Depending on the dog and other circumstances, a good trainer will vary his training method when he decides that a particular training challenge needs either a little more or less. When you have used the method enough to know it well, you can add your own personal touch as needed.

    The following are six steps for teaching your dog any new behaviour

    1. Get the behaviour.
    2. Mark the behaviour.
    3. Reward the behaviour.
    4. Repeat the behaviour until it happens easily at least 90{d4f4ff813a06e2c77cbb9c6effe011ebffe2f8986e44983e90e08c54deb62f63} of the time.
    5. Add the verbal cue as your dog does the behaviour to associate the word with the appropriate response.
    6. Use the verbal cue to elicit the behaviour.

    You get the behaviour by capturing, shaping, or luring it. You mark the behaviour with the click., or some other reward marker that your dog has already learned means that the reward is coming. Reward the behaviour by following the click with his favorite treat or, in some cases, with a favorite toy or other desirable reward, such as swimming or going outside.

    Repeat the behaviour until your pet is offering it easily before you add the verbal cue, so that he will associate the word with the correct behaviour response. For instance, by saying “Sit” as he does it, you are telling him that the name of the behaviour he is doing is Sit. If you ask him to do it before he’s offering the behaviour easily, you risk teaching him that the word sit means “stand there and look at me,” or worse, “sniff the ground and pull on the leash.”

    After your dog has heard the word at least a half-dozen times during the behaviour, depending on how quickly he seems to learn, then you can say the word first to elicit the behaviour. Be sure that his attention is focused on you so that he actually hears the word, and keep your body position the same as it was when you were getting the behaviour before. If you had been doing the “Sit” while you were standing and you suddenly start asking for it while you are sitting, he won’t understand that it’s the same thing.

    Give him a few seconds to respond. When he sits, click! and reward. If he doesn’t sit, use the minimum amount of assistance necessary (through body language or a lure, not through physical assistance) to get the behaviour, and repeat the exercise. If you find that he will only respond if you help him, start to minimize the amount of help you give until he is sitting for the verbal cue without any help from you.

    Would a Harness Stop Dogs Pulling?

    There are various styles of body harnesses is to choose from, but the majority of them have the basic metal D-ring which clips to the leash and is located on the strap that runs down the dog’s back. They can be used instead of collars which provide a much safer environment when the puppy tries to pull away.

    In this regard, the puppy receives the tension from the leash, instead of his or her neck, which could result in a spinal injury. Puppies are specially prone to running and darting every chance they get, even when on-leash. By removing the pressure from the dog’s airway, body harnesses are a safe and effective alternative to standard neck collars.

    If your dog is unresponsive when using a flat collar and lead – and still continues to pull – using a body harness or halter type set-up would be something to consider.

    The Basic Principles of Correcting Dog Pulling / Any Other Behavior

    Correcting the problem of a pulling dog is founded in two key principles that are universal to all dog training:

    1. Reward the desired behavior (lavishly)
    2. Do not reward the undesired behavior

    Now, you may wonder what it means to ‘not reward undesirable behavior’ but first it’s important to understand that any response can be perceived as a reward by some dogs.

    So if your dog is pulling and you respond by pulling back, for example, he may be treating this as a reward. He most certainly will if this process is just repeated over and over again.

    You need to work in small steps. Teach him to always second guess the direction you are going to walk in and the moment he is by your side, reward him. The moment he steps out too far, change direction and do not reward him.

    Be assertive and deliberate in your walking style. Do not let the dog lead the walk. If he pulls, you stop or go the other way.

    Encourage him to understand that he will be rewarded ONLY for not pulling. The moment you feel ANY tension on the lead, stop and don’t say a word to the dog. This is a non reward. Seek to establish in his mind a positive association with a loose leash and the way he is walking.

    If you have a problem with a dog who pulls on the lead, you can download K9 Magazine’s eBook ‘How to cure lead pulling in dogs ‘.

    Bonus Dog Leash Training Guide: How to Train Your Dog to Walk on a Loose Leash

    One of the biggest problems dog owners experience is out on the walk. The reason for this is due to the psychology of the pack needing a leader and more often than not, the dog thinks that he is it.

    If the dog believes he is the leader then he believes he should be at the front of the pack and this is why you will see owners being pulled by their dogs.

    Assessing the world through the dog’s eyes is paramount to helping him walk to heel. In order to change the dogs mind from pulling, we have to communicate in a gentle language he will understand.

    The dog believing he is the leader believes it is his job to protect the pack and anything that approaches such as other dogs, joggers or cars could be perceived as a threat.

    This creates all sorts of problems as the dog in a human ruled world will react to the threat in three ways: Flight, freeze and fight.

    To help the dog stay calm in a world it does not understand, we have to switch roles and become the leader. When you achieve this, the dog will have no responsibilities and look to you to react at the potential dangers. To reverse roles and teach the dog to heel we have to go back to basics where the walk starts and identify and progress through the stages. As we complete a stage we can then move forward.

    Firstly practice walking up and down the house with food reward encouraging your dog by your side rewarding him on a regular basis when he gets it right. As the dog understands where a good place to be is then you are ready to begin the first stage. The idea behind the stages is to start in a place where the dog feels comfortable with no distractions and build the foundations, as the dog improves you then slowly work up to a place with more distractions.

    The first stage is calling the dog to you to put the lead on. In this scenario the dog may become over excited at the sight of the lead and jump up, run around, nudge or make noise. If the dog does react in an undesirable manner then put the lead down. Putting the lead on when the dog is in this state will only encourage pulling out on the walk. Repeat by picking the lead up again and putting down, until the dog becomes desensitised to the lead and reacts in a calm manner. When the dog is in a calm state you are ready to put the lead on and move to the next stage.

    The second stage is putting the lead on and walking up and down the house once again encouraging your dog to the side you want him to be with food reward. If he gets it wrong we correct the mistake with a method called stop, start change direction. This method involves stopping when the dog drifts in front, encouraging him back to your chosen side, starting again when he is behind you, then changing direction. Repeating this method in the house lays the foundations for a good walk. Keep practicing and get it perfect in the house. If the dog does not listen to you in the house with no distractions, then he definitely will not listen to you outside with all the sights, smells and distractions.

    Teaching a Dog To Walk to Heel

    After teaching the dog to heel in the house you are ready to move to the third stage. The third stage is a place with more smells where the dog still feels safe like a garden, keep practicing stop, start, change direction, lots of praise, lots of food reward. If you haven’t got a garden, then choose a place outside with little distractions. Stay positive and dedicate a big space of time. Do not be in a hurry as the dog will feel if you are stressed. As the dog listens to you here then you are ready to progress to the next stage.

    The next stage is somewhere quiet with a few more distractions like a residential area, keep correcting if the dog pulls by stopping, starting and changing direction (SSCD).

    Reward The Dog When They Don’t Pull The Leash

    When they get it right keep rewarding, avoid all other dogs by crossing the road or walking in another direction, showing the dog that you lead in all areas. Keep away from all other distractions by leading the dog in a different direction. If you head towards a distraction or threat, then do not be surprised if your dog reacts. This means he is not ready so help him feel safe by keeping good distance.

    The more you play a leader role and choose flight from potential threats the more the dog will feel safe in your company and begin to trust your decisions. As the dog heels in this area and successfully follows you away from distractions then you can move on further afield to a busier place. If the dog still has problems here then spend time in this area teaching the dog.

    The next stage could be a busier residential street with more activity e.g. more cars, people and distractions. Walk up and down the street encouraging your dog by your side. If you or your dog feels anxious then go back to a stage where you both felt comfortable and progress again from there.

    When the dog is heeling to your side at this point then pick a busier place like your local village or town. This will be a test as there are many distractions. Once this is completed you are ready for the final stage, which is the park. If your dog pulls as soon as it gets here then walk back and try again. Keep repeating to you can successfully walk through the park on lead.

    Training the dog to heel is a test of wills, so no matter what keep it up and recognise your dog’s state. Staying calm, convincing and consistent and not rushing your dog will help him feel relaxed in a world he does not understand.

    Bonus #2: Puppy Leash Training – Stop Puppy Pulling on Lead

    New dog owners whom are working the basics of leash control should be attaching a leash to a harness. When you are not familiar with the basics of leash control, you don’t want to use a collar as it puts too much stress on your dog’s neck, as well as on your own back. Even a 25 pound puppy has a lot of force when he lunges forward.

    Once your puppy gets older and you have the basics of leash control down, then you can switch to a training collar. Remember, when walking your puppy, try to keep him from getting behind you and to your right side. This will only get you tangled up in his lead.

    Let’s look at the dynamics of a puppy’s pull. A pup’s hind legs act as a powerful engine that propel him forward while his shoulders steer him in the direction he wishes to go. Watch his front legs and where they are reaching – this is the direction he is going.

    Trying to hold your dog back when he pulls has the opposite effect that you wish to achieve. The more you resist his pull, the more his hind legs get revved up as if they are going into higher gear. His body sinks lower to the ground which lowers his center of gravity and the result is that your puppy now has more strength behind the pull. You don’t want to play tug-of-war with your puppy.

    The best action is to take a few steps forward into that weight, leading with your right leg so you can close in on your puppy’s head. When you do this, all that energy from his hind legs is released and flows over to his front legs – this throws his weight forward and his balance off. This action will considerably slow the movement of your puppy. This is a good time to snap the leash directly over your left shoulder and say “Wait.”

    You can also slow your puppy down by sitting lower in your seat as you walk, in other words, lowering your center of gravity. By bringing your weight down, you will physically fatigue your puppy from thrusting forward. You are using your weight to counter pull his movement. Since you weigh more than your puppy, you are using your weight to your advantage.

    Contributors

    Nigel Reed is a dog behaviourist from London. For further details about his work or to set up a consulation, visit www.dogtraininginlondon.co.uk

    Natalka Jacyszyn is a full time canine psychologist.

    Further Reading:

    If you are struggling with a dog pulling on the lead, check out Natalka Jacyszyn’s eBook ‘How to Cure Dog Pulling‘.

  • Tips For Moving Home With a Dog

    Tips For Moving Home With a Dog

    Moving house is one of the most stressful experiences known to man and, unless a pet’s individual needs are considered, it can be a testing time for them too.

    A new home environment means new territory, new smells and probably new neighbours, and all of this can be unsettling for an animal, quite aside from the journey from one property to another.

    People move house more often nowadays. Here are a few hints and tips moving success for dog owners:

    · Make sure your dog is identifiable in case it gets lost en-route or before it has settled into its new home. Dogs, cats and many other animals, including birds, can be microchipped. Dogs, even if microchipped, should always wear a collar and identity tag with the owner’s name, and address clearly marked on it when in a public place.

    · In the days before the move, keep to your dog’s usual routine as much as possible.

    · Keep dogs in a quiet room with their bedding and favourite toys while your belongings are taken out of the house. Secure the door and hang a “Do not open – pets in here” sign.

    · Talk to your vet about ways to make the journey less stressful for dogs who suffer from severe travel sickness or anxiety in a car. NEVER leave pets of any kind in a car as the car can quickly become very hot.

    · Don’t pack all of your dog’s food in the removals van. If it’s a long journey, you may need to stop and feed it. Schedule in walks on the lead for your dog en route. Make sure that plenty of water is available for your pet at all times.

    · When moving a small dog, use a secure basket. Leave the carrier around for a few days before your move, so the dog becomes used to the sight and smell of it. Put your dog inside the basket before the removal men arrive.

    · When in the car, secure larger dogs with a car safety harness and keep smaller dogs in a pet carrier securely fitted to the seat or in the foot-well. Do not put pet carriers in the removal van or the boot of your car and n ever let your dog put its head out of the car window.

    · As soon as you arrive at your new home put your dog in a secure and quiet room with their familiar bedding and toys, and provide them with food and water. It’s important to establish a routine so before you move in, work out where your dog’s feeding station will be and if your dog is used to eating from wall mounted bowls or a dog bowl holder, make sure they’re in place ready to begin your new adventure.

    · Keep dogs on a lead when you take them out in the garden for the first few days and check your boundary fencing to make sure that it is secure and free from any gaps before letting your dog run free.

    · As you settle in to your new home, remember to walk your dogs regularly to help them adjust to their new surroundings. Give your dog sufficient, but not excessive, amounts of food and attention. A regular routine will help during the adjustment period and small frequent meals will give you more contact with them in the first few weeks, helping them relax.

    · If you wish to move your dog overseas, contact worldwide pet relocation specialists. Inform your removals company well in advance. For more information, it is also worthwhile contacting DEFRA for advice on the latest laws and regulations.

  • Milk Thistle for Dogs With Liver Problems

    Milk Thistle for Dogs With Liver Problems

    For hundreds of years extracts of milk thistle have been used as “liver tonics”. Milk thistle itself is said to have protective effects on the liver improves its function. It is normally deployed to treat liver cirrhosis, chronic hepatitis (liver inflammation), toxin-induced liver damage (including the prevention of severe liver damage from Amanita phalloides (‘death cap’ mushroom poisoning), and gallbladder problems.

    A review of studies of silymarin and liver disease have shown an interesting pattern in that studies which tested low dosages of silymarin concluded that silymarin was ineffective, while studies which used significantly larger doses concluded that silymarin was biologically active and had therapeutic effects.

    According to a report on Reuters, Milk Thistle has even been said to aid patients recovering from cancer treatment (source). This goes to show just how powerful this plant extract can be.

    Milk Thistle and Liver Problems in Dogs

    Before you would even begin with a treatment program, correct diagnosis of any potential liver problems in your dog must be carried out by a veterinarian.

    Symptoms of liver problems with dogs including liver disease can include a loss of appetite, lethargy, jaundice, dark urine, pale gums, changes to drinking / eating habits and a sudden change in the dog’s weight.

    Milk thistle is used as a treatment for liver problems in many human liver conditions and has received generally widespread positive acclaim.

    Most of the trials carried out on rats also give cause for positivity. Rats have similar liver function to dogs and there has to date been no toxic effects reported.

    Diseases Of The Liver, Pancreas, And Peritoneum

    A. – The Liver. Introduction. Post-mortem changes. I. Malformations and Deformities. II. Disorders of Circulation. 1. Passive hyperaemia (nutmeg liver), 2. Thrombosis and Embolism. III. Retrograde changes, chiefly fatty infiltration, amyloid disease, and pigmentation; Icterus. IV. Acute Yellow Atrophy. V. Hypertrophy and Regeneration. VI. Inflammations. 1. Suppurative hepatitis, including tropical and pysemic abscesses; also biliary abscess. 2. Chronic interstitial hepatitis, Cirrhosis; causation; lesions; effects. Biliary and hypertrophic cirrhosis. 3. Perihepatitis. VII. Syphilis and Tuberculosis. Syphilitic cirrhosis and gummata. Tuberculosis, chiefly secondary. VIII. Tumours, chiefly cancers; occasionally primary – chiefly secondary. Parasites, chiefly Echinococcus.

    B. – Bile-ducts and Gall-bladder. 1. Gall-stones, single and multiple, 2. Obstruction of ducts, 3. Rupture and perforation, 4. Tumours.

    C. – Pancreas. Malformations, haemorrhages, inflammations, retrograde changes. Tumours, especially cancers. Concretions and obstructions of duct.

    D. – Peritoneum. Introduction. 1. Malformations; 2. Disorders of circulation, chiefly haemorrhage and ascites; chylous ascites and ascites adiposus; 3. Inflammations, septic, chronic; 4. Tuberculosis, tubercular peritonitis, healing and its results; 5. Tumours, including Retroperitoneal sarcoma.

    E. – Secondary Extension of Cancers of the Abdominal Organs.

    About Milk Thistle

    The distribution of Milk Thistle is limited to Europe from Holland southwards. It is unknown in early deposits. It is, moreover, not a native of Britain, and in Scotland and Ireland is quite rare.

    The Milk Thistle is really only an introduction. It is found on waste ground, or in gardens where it has been sown with garden seed, or dispersed in the same way as weeds, such as Mallow, Tansy, Wormwood, Chicory, Borage, Mullein, and other casuals.

    The stems are thick at the base, branched, rather tall, with cottony down, ribbed, furrowed, and leafless above. The radical leaves are spreading and prostrate, tripinnate, sinuate, shining, with spinose margin, and with white, net-like veins, the stem-leaves clasping the stem.

    The flowerheads, which are large and solitary, are purple and globose. The phyllaries are leaf-like below, closely associated, then spreading and bent back, spinous at the margin, leathery, broad, and with one long ter-minal spine. The receptacle is fleshy and hairy. The fruit is oblong, transversely wrinkled, black, with white pappus, growing obliquely. The seeds contain oil for emulsion and are used as bird-seed.

    The plant grows to a height of 5 ft. The flowers open in July. Like Cotton Thistle it is a herbaceous triennial, and may be reproduced by seed. It is worth cultivating.

    The flowers contain honey, and the tube is long and slender but enlarged above. The flower-head is like Carduus, rather large, rose-colour, with anther-stalks united into a sheath. Being of casual occurrence, observations on the number of visitors are wanting.

    The achenes are large and provided with a pappus, which enables them to be dispersed by aid of the wind.

    Milk Thistle is more or less a sand-loving plant or addicted to a sand soil or sand loam.

    Silybum, Dioscorides, is the Greek name for an edible thistle; marianus, Linnaeus, is from the Virgin Mary, and refers to a legend that drops of her milk fell on the leaves and caused the spotting. Milk Thistle is a common name for it, in allusion to the markings (white veins or spots) of the leaves and the milky juice. From its numerous sharp prickles it was recommended for “stitch” or pain in the side. The achenes are large and contain oil, formerly used for emulsion, and have also been used as food for goldfinches and other birds.

     

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