Search results for: “What Dog Food To Avoid”

  • How to Keep Children and Dogs Safe Together

    How to Keep Children and Dogs Safe Together

    The RSPCA is encouraging parents to teach their children how to behave – and more importantly, how not to behave – around dogs.

    As Dog Bite Prevention Week (12 – 19 June) nears, the oldest and largest animal welfare organisation is urging parents to spend some time educating children on the best way to approach a dog, and how to act around dogs.

    RSPCA dog welfare expert Dr Samantha Gaines said: “As a mother and dog owner myself, it’s clear that children and dogs can be really great friends. Dogs can also help children develop kindness, understanding and respect for living things. Having a dog as a friend can improve a child’s social skills with people and caring for a pet can encourage responsibility.

    “But, just as parents teach their children how to act around traffic and how to safely cross the road, it’s also their responsibility to show youngsters how to behave when they’re around their own or other dogs – either in public places, or in private homes and gardens.”

    This is particularly important as the summer holidays approach and as the weather improves, meaning children and dogs are more likely to be sharing outside spaces and are likely to come into contact with each other.

    According to data from the Health and Social Care Information Centre, the age group with the highest number of hospital admissions for dog bites was children aged under nine*. And hospital bite statistics also show that young children are more likely to be bitten by a family dog rather than one they don’t know.

    As well as dog owners ensuring their pets are trained and socialised properly, it is also important for children to understand dog behaviour and how to interact with them safely.

    In 2014, the RSPCA partnered up with vet and animal behaviourist Dr Sophia Yin to develop a series of educational material to teach children how they should and shouldn’t interact with dogs, and with certified clinical animal behaviourist Julie Bedford to produce a leaflet for parents highlighting different behaviours dogs use depending on how they feel.

    Giving this advice to children and vital information to parents should help avoid situations where children could get bitten by dogs..

    Children and Dog Safety: Six Golden Rules

    The RSPCA has six golden rules for keeping kids safe and dogs happy:

    Never leave your child alone in a room with a dog, even your own dog.

    Teach kids not to approach dogs if they are eating or have food; if they have a toy or something else they really like; if they are sleeping or on their bed; or are sick, sleeping, in pain or tired.

    Remind your child to be kind, gentle and polite to their pets.

    Teach your child to play nicely with their dog, by encouraging them to teach fun tricks like paw, play dead and roll over.

    Always supervise your child when they are with a dog, and look for signs that the dog might be feeling uncomfortable such as yawning, lip licking or avoiding eye contact.

    Teach children not to approach an unfamiliar dog or one which you, as parents, don’t know to be friendly towards children.

    “We also recommend providing your dog with a cosy spot in a quiet room where they can retreat to if they need or want their own space,” Dr Gaines adds. “It’s good to teach your children to leave the dog alone when he/she is in this area.

    “It’s also a nice idea for children to strengthen their bond with the family dog by playing fun and safe games such as hiding treats in the garden for the dog to find, playing fetch, and trying simple training.”

  • Staying Safe When Walking Your Dog

    For those of us partial to a heart-warming re-homing story or the occasional cheeky Labrador video, the pet news is a regular coffee break go-to. Unfortunately for dog owners, it seems that dog thefts and malicious acts against our pets are constantly in the headlines at the moment.

    Coupled with the time of year, many of us are still walking our dogs in the hours of darkness, making those usual strolls seem a little more secluded and lonely.

    spot

    While it’s nice to think that your faithful friend will protect you if you were ever threatened, for most of us our soft, loveable pets are more likely to lick a perpetrator then growl at them. We also know that most dogs can’t resist anything edible, making recent ‘spiking’ stories (The Mirror, 28/02/16) even more worrying.

    Staying safe when out and about is a matter of keeping alert, but it helps to reinforce those key safety guidelines that we often forget to put into practise when we’re going about our daily routines. Read our top tips and add your own safety advice to the comments below.

    Tell somebody where you’re going

    Even if the rest of the house is still sound asleep when you’re heading off into the elements, send a text or write a note letting everybody what route you’ll be taking and what time you set off. It’s also worth going on a route that you regularly take with the family so everybody has a good idea of roughly where you’ll be at what time. For more information about walking alone (or working alone if you’re a professional dog walker), The Suzy Lamplugh Trust website is full of useful advice on personal safety – http://www.suzylamplugh.org/personal-safety-tips/

    It’s also worth sticking to routes where you know you’ll have phone reception if you should injure yourself on your walk or see anything which immediately causes suspicion.

    Clear your head

    For many, an early morning or evening walk is an ideal time to relax, but try not to listen to music at times when you need your wits about you. As well as potentially failing to hear oncoming traffic, it makes it easier for somebody to approach you from behind without your knowledge. Wearing things around your neck (such as head phones or placing a lead around your shoulders) also makes it easier for somebody to apply pressure to your throat. Wear a hat instead of a hood too – hoods restrict your peripheral vision, making it harder to see traffic and anybody else who might be around.

    If you’re worried about visibility in poor light, LED dog collars and fluorescent strips are widely available from pet stores. If you can, try and spread any fluorescent clothing/lighting evenly about you and your dog – this will ensure that it’s clear you’re a dog walker (as opposed to a single person or cyclist) to oncoming traffic.

    Set up a walking group

    Most dog owners get to know all the local dogs – from the bulldog around the corner to the dachshund from the park. If there’s fellow dog owners you get on with, set up a walking group with set times that suit everybody. If you live in a rural area, this may be even more essential when your usual routes become increasingly isolated in the colder months.

    Dog in woodland

    Don’t assume a boisterous dog is safe off its lead

    If your dog is unpredictable around other dogs, don’t assume an early morning jaunt is going to mean you’re the only one about. A classic long lead will allow you to give your dog some freedom and bring him in if any other dogs come in sight.

    101

    Sadly, there have been numerous news articles of late reporting ‘spiking’ in popular dog walking spots. The Mirror and the Manchester Evening News have shared news of spiked food reports at Dovestone Reservoir (North West), Wandsworth (London) and Connah’s Quay (North Wales) in recent weeks. If anything makes you suspicious, call the local police line and report what you’ve seen. If you can try to alert other dog walkers and report your findings to the RSPCA.

    Dog Thefts

    Contrary to popular belief, it isn’t only pedigree dogs that get stolen for selling on. Criminals can target any pet where there’s a chance of a reward. When you’re out and about, always keep your dog in sight and train him to be obedient to your calls (easier said than done!). By simply calling him back and giving him some fuss and a small treat when he responds, you can soon train your dog to come running even when they’ve spotted something that really tempts them! It’s also worth making your garden secure from snoopers by fitting a bell or security light on your garden gate. It goes without saying that dogs should be micro-chipped, but the Blue Cross also suggest avoiding adding your pet’s name on their identification tag.

    This article was provided by the pet care team at Swell Pets. Specialising in dog food, bedding, healthcare and grooming, please contact our team for advice on caring for your dog – http://www.swellpets.co.uk/dog/dog-food-698.html

    screenshot-www.swellpets.co.uk 2016-03-14 11-31-12

  • 5 Amazing Dog Hacks Every Owner Should Know About

    5 Amazing Dog Hacks Every Owner Should Know About

    1. For most dogs they have a discreet feature connecting their body to their heads. It is called the neck. The dog’s neck is almost custom made to fit a range of collars and leads. No longer do you have to take your dog out on to a busy high street and let him walk in a dangerous (and illegal) manner, frightening worried onlookers as you ‘show off’ what a great dog owner you are by allowing your dog to walk ahead of or behind you and risking your dog causing an accident/being killed simply because you’re ‘too good’ to put your pet on a leash in public.

    2. Most towns and cities have a small to medium sized building out of which a group of specially trained animal experts work. They are known as veterinarians and they have a fair to good understanding of many ailments and problems affecting dogs. With this knowledge, the next time your dog is showing signs of being genuinely ill, in discomfort, pain or close to death as a result of an injury or sickness you no longer have to ask for the advice of random people in your Facebook friend’s circle as to what to do about your dog who is clearly in desperate need of professional attention. So instead of posting a status update like,”My dog was stung by a bee and is now violently convulsing on the kitchen floor. What should I do? lol.” You can instead use the internet to find the address of one of these small buildings where veterinarians work from and they will actually be able to physically do something to stop your dog suffering.

    3. Most dogs require food and water to operate in a functional and efficient manner. As a result they will sometimes need to demonstrate the full workings of a mammalian digestive system, leading to them depositing small parcels of digested food from the tiny hole that sits neatly at the base of the dog’s spine. In order to prepare for this quirky little habit, a small bag can be used to neatly collect the dog’s deposit which can then be safely placed in a refuse bin rather than simply gawking in amazement at how astonishing your dog’s bowel movements are before walking off and leaving a nasty pile of warmed up excrement for everyone else to navigate around.

    4. Referring to hack number one, now you know about the head-to-body connection device on your dog – the neck – when your canine is running merrily in a public place and makes a beeline toward other dogs, people, children or wildlife you can avoid accidents, injuries and all round distress by teaching your dog to come back to you (a hack known as ‘dog training’) and utilising your dog’s head-to-body connection feature by temporarily installing a leash, thus giving you full control over your dog’s movements. This is a great way to avoid your dog getting bitten or preventing your own dog from playfully attempting to remove other dog’s heads from their own head-to-body connection mounts.

    5. Most dogs have a great internal intelligence unit. It is commonly referred to as their brain. They use this device for learning and remembering things, things that you have the ability to input. One of the best uses of the internal intelligence unit is its ability to respond to clear, consistent commands which are then followed up with acknowledgements by you such as giving the dog something they enjoy. The internal intelligence unit has not yet been effectively modified enough to respond to repeated shouting from you as you stand, slack-jawed, observing your dog from a great distance whilst you simultaneously carry out a conversation on your mobile phone pausing randomly to bellow toward your run-away canine companion who is in the process of terrorising all pets, people and animals at a distance of about 1,000 yards from where you are.

    Bonus hack: Your dog’s internal intelligence unit rarely breaks down. If your dog’s appears to have malfunctioned and the person standing opposite you behind the reception desk of your nearest animal shelter is nodding politely and seems to give the impression that this sort of thing happens regularly, it’s because they are being polite and they are nodding and smiling as they suppress the urge to inform you that they have goldfish in their care who are better informed and mentally adroit than you. The reality is, your dog does not need to be rehomed because ‘he’s too much of a handful’, it’s more the case that your own internal intelligence unit not fit for purpose.

    Various examples of dogs with brilliantly functioning internal intelligence unit’s can be found at dogsblog.com.

  • These Seasonal Habits Could Seriously Harm Your Dog

    These Seasonal Habits Could Seriously Harm Your Dog

    As we venture in to that time of year when seasonal good cheer begins to manifest at the forefront of our minds, it’s worth the effort to remind ourselves of some of the hidden dangers that could turn our dog’s festive spirits decidedly sour.

    Take a look at this list of things to think about over the winter holiday period as they might apply to your own circumstances. Some are hopefully things that you already know but others might just surprise you:

    Food

    • Too much sodium can kill animals, so if you are going to give your pet some of your leftover Christmas dinner, make sure it isn’t covered in salt or gravy.
    • Chocolate is poisonous to dogs: keep your tins of chocolate covered up and don’t put up chocolate tree decorations that your dog can reach.
      Cocktail sticks can get eaten by dogs and cats and end up stuck in their throats or puncture their gut. Be careful what you serve and be careful where you keep party food and rubbish.
    • Mesh that covers your roast meat is often hastily discarded after removing the joint from the oven. If it is left to lie in meat juices it can be gobbled up by cats or dogs when your back is turned. Mesh can cause severe damage to the gut and cause bloat, which is often fatal if medical attention is not sought immediately.

    Decorations

    • Fir trees are poisonous to cats, and cats also like to bite and eat tinsel. Cats, dogs and small mammal pets can bite through wires so be sure to tuck your Christmas tree lights away safely.
    • Holly, ivy, poinsettias and mistletoe are all poisonous to pets.

    General

    • Always supervise dogs with children – no matter how well you think you know your dog and trust it, over-excited children plus all the changes going on in your dog’s surroundings can make even a calm dog snap.
    • Many vet practices are closed over the Christmas period. Before they close, make a note of their emergency service number in case you need it urgently.

    Finally, remember that there undoubtedly will be fireworks let off on New Year’s Eve at midnight in your local area. If your pet is of a nervous disposition then make sure it is kept near you so that you can offer lots of reassurance, and bring all outdoor pets inside.

    Bonus: How To Create a Dog Friendly Christmas Tree

    Creating a Christmas tree that is both beautiful to look at for you and unattractive to your dog is a special challenge. Here are some suggestions to keep your tree pet-friendly.

    1. Tree water at the base of live trees can be harmful if preservative chemicals have been added to prolong the life of the tree. Keep your dog from drinking the water by covering the tree basin with foil or a tree skirt.

    2. Place dog-safe ornaments near the bottom of the tree in case your dog decides to use the ornaments as playthings.

    3. Tie up loose electrical cords of the lights used to decorate the tree and keep them concealed by attaching them with wire or cord to the trunk of the tree. End-to-end lights eliminate individual cords dangling from the tree that might entice your dog to chew them.

    4. If you have lots of tree lights that are not end to end, purchase a power strip in which to plug the lights. Attach the strip to the tree trunk at a level that is higher than the height of your dog. As a result, you will have only one heavy-duty power cord running from the tree to the outlet instead of several flimsy cords from single strings of lights.

    5. To prevent your dog from knocking over your holiday tree, anchor it with cord or wire to the ceiling directly above the tree’s trunk. Don’t attach it with wire to a wall behind the tree because your dog could get caught in the wire if be darts behind the tree.

    6. Spray the tower branches of the tree with bitter apple, cinnamon, lemon, eucalyptus, or other unappealing scents.

    7. Hang your ornaments with ribbons rather than hooks to keep your dog from accidentally swallowing something that could get lodged in his throat.

    8. Do not use tinsel or angel hair on your tree. Angel hair, made of glass fibre, and tinsel, made of metal, can cause internal damage if your dog swallows any.

    9. Avoid decorating your tree with strings of berries or other edible ornaments – many are harmful if swallowed. The string on which they are attached can cause damage to your dog’s intestines if swallowed, and a dog, eager to get to the “treats,” could knock over the tree.

    10. If you like, decorate a small, artificial tree for your dog with items he will find appealing, such as doggie biscuits and dog toys. Hide the tree until you are ready for your dog to open his presents.

  • Want To Know What Your Dog Gets Up To While You’re Out?

    Want To Know What Your Dog Gets Up To While You’re Out?

    Do you want to know what your beloved pet does behind your back? Channel 5 are looking for animals to take part in ‘The Secret Life of Pets’. Whether your dog is stealing your food, your cat is disappearing all day or your hamster is acting strangely we will find out what is really going on.

    The Secret Life of Pets is an entertaining and informative brand new 8 part TV series for Channel 5. The show looks into the extraordinary and bizarre secret lives of our pets. We discover what our pets really get up to behind those puppy dog eyes, what they are hiding in the garden and how they have learnt to open the fridge door! Using the latest and most innovative filming techniques this series shows us what life is like from a pet’s-eye-view.

    To be in with a chance of getting your pet on TV please can you email me some information about your pet along with a photo of you and your pet, your contact number and address. Apply ASAP by emailing rob.myler@itn.co.uk to avoid disappointment!

    dog home photo

    Photo by MarcooJethro®

  • Is My Dog Underweight?

    Is My Dog Underweight?

    As pet owners we’re conscious to make sure our dogs are as happy and healthy as they can be, good citizens of the canine world, and do our best to repay them for the unconditional love and fun moments they bring to our lives.

    According to the Butcher’s Pet Care Healthy Happy Hound report, over a third (37%) of dog owners don’t know how much their dog should weigh. By this definition, if an owner doesn’t know how much their dog should weigh, they won’t know how much they should be feeding and we know that the worry that your dog could be underweight, can be just as much of a concern as whether he’s overweight.

    Let’s look at the PFMA’s Weigh in Wednesday guide to analyse your dog’s weight category.

    Is your dog…

    1. Very Thin

    • Ribs, spine and hip bones are very easily seen (in short haired pets)
    • Obvious loss of muscle bulk
    • No fat can be felt under the skin

    very thin dog graphic

    2. Underweight

    • Ribs, spine and hip bones easily seen
    • Obvious waist and abdominal tuck
    • Very little fat can be felt under the skin

    underweight dog graphic

    3. Ideal Weight

    • Ribs, spine and hip bones easily felt
    • Visible waist with an abdominal tuck
    • A small amount of fat can be felt

    ideal dog weight graphic

    Illustrations courtesy of the Weigh in Wednesday campaign

    The above guide is to help you determine if your dog is in fact underweight and which category they fall into. There is no hard number as to what your dog should weigh based on their breed, but there is an average, healthy weight as indeed there is for humans.

    For example, during his professional boxing career, standing 5 feet and 10 inches tall ‘Iron’ Mike Tyson weighed in at just 6 pounds under 17 stone. According to the NHS BMI calculator, Tyson’s body mass index score rated him 32.99, right at the very extreme end of the obesity scale. In fact, the BMI reading suggests Tyson was not only obese but was at risk of a whole host of other medical problems related to his being grossly over-weight.

    Let’s look again, this time at the other end of the scales.

    ‘Golden Boy’ Oscar de la Hoya, like Tyson was a world champion boxer who also stands at 5 feet and 10 inches tall. De la Hoya weighed in at 9 stone and 2 pounds for his debut professional contest. Almost 8 stone less than Tyson. De la Hoya’s BMI score (18.38), at the time, tells us he’s classed as underweight and at risk of the associated health problems that this entails.

    The reason for the example is to show that what someone ‘should’ weigh, doesn’t always match the reality based on their statistics.

    The same can be said of a dog breed. You may have two dogs, same breed, different shapes. One is classed as a healthy weight, the other not.

    Brought To You By Fit & Fun Dog Month 2013

    Fit & Fun Dog Month sponsored by Butchers Lean & Tasty

    ‘Keep as Fit as a Butcher’s Dog’

     

    No one knows your dog better than you, you are best placed to determine what’s a healthy weight for your dog and knowing their weight by regularly assessing your dog’s size and weight you can adapt feeding and exercise regimes quickly to ensure your dog remains in top condition. Always seek professional advice if you feel there may be an underlying health issue

    “Holly Lloyd, owns a 4 year old Labrador called Scout. Holly says, “Scout has always been a lean dog and was fed on a dry food diet but after he developed allergies to dust and storage mites, I had to find an alternative type of food to avoid the possibilities of mites. After trying different brands which didn’t suit him, even though I’d always felt he had a cast iron stomach, I knew I had to find one which had the right amount of ‘good’ ingredients and came across Butcher’s tinned food which had 99% natural ingredients, according to the label.”

    After a short time Holly started to notice a huge difference to Scout’s coat, which had been affected by his allergies and noticed an improvement in Scout’s muscle tone, which he had started to lose as a result of arthritis in his back legs as well as him starting to regain some of the lost weight.

    Is my dog underweight

    Scout, before trialing Butcher’s Lean & Tasty

    Three months on a diet of Butcher’s, Scout no longer needs steroids or antihistamines for his allergies, his skin is healthy, his coat is shiny, his joints are no longer showing signs of problems and he is a much healthier weight.

    Scout after trialing Butchers Lean & Tasty

    Scout, after trialing Butcher’s Lean & Tasty

    Holly says, “I knew I needed to find a good, stable food and I’m hugely grateful I did my research before choosing Butcher’s. The label gave me the confidence that it included all of the goodness Scout needed, and luckily he agreed.”

    Scout now

    The diet you feed and the lifestyle your dog leads will determine their weight as much as any genetic factor.

    If your dog isn’t a big eater and that may be the underlying cause of their weight loss, try changing their feeding habits.

    For example, if you typically feed dry food and your dog is the only pet in the home, don’t leave their food down for them to dip into and out of. It may be your dog is relying on the fact the food is constantly available. Try feeding little and often, but always taking the unfinished food away and monitoring how much has been eaten.

    However, the biggest change you can make is by making food more appealing by putting a little meat on top if you feed a dry diet, Butcher’s Tripe recipes for instance, is known as a great appetite trigger, so that your dog gets the food he really enjoys and you can gradually increase the amount over time so that his digestion system can get used to the new food.

    As a wet food, Butcher’s Tripe Mix meaty canned food creates immediate interest from the smell to the texture. Tripe is full of animal protein, it’s a natural dog food and sometimes referred to as ‘catnip for dogs’! This could be ideal for those of you with one or more dog in the home trying to get your dog to eat their whole meal at once.

    Understanding the value of feeding your dog and the right nutritional elements to suit them, as an individual, is one of the biggest determining factors as to how healthy your dog can be, both now and in to their old age.

    Butcher’s Lean & Tasty meaty complete meals with 30% less fat is a more natural dog food, as are all of the Butcher’s products, because they contain no artificial colours, flavours or preservatives.

    Butchers-Lean-and-Tasty-dog-food-pack

    Visit the Butcher’s Pet Care website and use the tool to find the right food for your dog – butcherspetcare.co.uk

     

  • How To Stop Dog Stealing Food?

    How To Stop Dog Stealing Food?

    To eliminate stealing, whether it is overt (taking food from children) or covert (pilfering the thawing dinner steak), it is necessary to initiate a program of at least 4 weeks, during which no food is ever placed within the pup’s reach. It goes without saying that no tidbits should be given during this period.

    Remedies that often fail include lacing some food with pepper or ammonia, saying “No-no” while tempting the pup, and physically punishing the animal when it approaches the family’s food. These fail because they require the presence of some agent other than the food, either the aversive-tasting element or the owner. When these elements are not present, the pup is rarely discouraged from stealing the food. It learns to discriminate between treated and untreated morsels, and to avoid food in the owner’s presence.

    Begging food from the dinner table is one of the easiest things to teach a dog, and also one of the hardest habits to break. Your pet’s training to beg begins when he is a young, adorable puppy. It does not take too many repetitions before he learns that he gets fed from the table by begging. Then he sits by your chair while you are eating and stares at you. Occasionally he’ll get up on his hind legs and paw you, or he’ll nudge your arm and remind you that he is waiting. And he drools, that’s the worst part. He looks as though you never feed him.

    If you don’t have this problem, prevention is quite simple. Don’t start giving your dog food from the table. If you must give your dog table scraps, give them in moderation and in his own dish after you have finished eating or, better yet, with his regular meal. Once you have a dog that begs, it becomes a self-perpetuating problem. Begging is rewarded with food.

    Chances are, if you have this problem, you’ve tried to stop his begging, you’ve yelled at him when he begs, pushed him away, and even gotten really angry, but he just gets more persistent. So you’ve had to give him something to be able to eat in peace. What you have done is to reward his persistence. Each time you have tried holding out longer, but have ultimately given in, you have further trained him that no matter how far away the rainbow looks, there is a pot of gold at the end if he simply waits.

    When you are tired of this behaviour and want to end it, when you get to the point that you can’t stand the drooling, the whining, the pawing and the sad eyes staring at you, then you have to steel yourself for the cure. Using the positive approach, give him the command “Down” and have him do a long “Down” by your chair during dinner. Be prepared for many interruptions initially, while you reinforce his “Down.” Each time he gets up, repeat the command and replace it if necessary so that he remains down during your dinner.

    With a truly persistent begger, your first week of dinners may be quite a trial. Some dogs bark repeatedly and go through all manner of random actions to try to get you to feed them from the table. But once you have begun the training, stick with it. If you give in at any time, no matter how small the tidbit you sneak him, not only have you lost that battle, you may very well have lost the entire war. If you have made up your mind that you don’t want begging, then it’s just a matter of time before you have your dog resigned to the fact that the party is over, at least at the dinner table.

    When your dog is steady enough to do the long “Down” away from your side during dinner, then establish his place where he stays while you eat. He should be put in his place every evening while you are eating, and praised when you release him at the end of the meal. It won’t be too long before you will be eating dinner in the company of a well-trained, well- behaved dog lying quietly in the corner.

    This article is extracted from K9 Magazine’s ‘How To Stop Dog Begging’ – read in full here.

  • Help! My Dog Has Canine Osteoarthritis, Should I Change His Diet?

    Help! My Dog Has Canine Osteoarthritis, Should I Change His Diet?

    If your dog has just been diagnosed with osteoarthritis, you may be confused and worried about the effect of his condition on his enjoyment of life. Fortunately there are several things you can do to slow the progression of the disease, and keep him happy and mobile. Lifestyle changes, anti-inflammatory/anti-pain medication and nutritional supplements are the cornerstones of treating osteoarthritis.

    Lifestyle Changes

    The great thing about making lifestyle changes for your dog is that they are within your control. They are not going to be easy to make, but keep in mind that pet dogs are like toddlers in that they are largely a reflection of their parents. Managing your dog’s lifestyle is almost completely your responsibility.

    Here is what you should be focusing on:

    Weight Reduction

    This is a biggie! The target weight for an arthritic dog should be leaner than normal to ease the burden on his joints.

    Aim for a gradual reduction in weight. Numbers are your friend in this: weigh your dog regularly and chart it; initially every two weeks, then every month. Once his target weight is reached, put him on the scales quarterly or semi-annually. Similarly, use a weighing machine or a measuring cup to ensure that his food intake is regulated.

    As your dog gets older, his energy needs will reduce. If you continue to chart his weight, you should have no trouble noticing the weight gain and reacting to it.

    A weight reduction program is a lot easier to write about than to implement. You must ensure that all members of the family realise the importance of the program. Table scraps have to be few and far between; better still, eliminate them completely. Your pet will not be happy during the period that he is losing weight. But, once his weight is stabilised, he will be healthier and happier than before.

    Exercising Your Dog

    Exercise is important for your arthritic pet. Not only will it help him remain at his target weight, but regular mild exercise has been known to improve the health and mobility of the affected joints. It reduces the pain of arthritis and the progression of the disease while maintaining good muscle mass.

    The important part of any exercise program for arthritic dogs is that it is low impact.

    Try to prevent him from jumping; also, avoid asking him to repeatedly climb up and down stairs. Remember that medications could mask his pain, thus allowing him to get more vigorous than is good for him. To prevent such ‘accidents’, it is best to exercise him on a leash.

    Swimming is an excellent exercise for dogs with osteoarthritis. It encourages mobility in the joints, but without painful weight-bearing. Hydrotherapy also builds up muscle mass which helps to support the painful joint.

    Medication and Nutritional Supplements

    As well as help you with a weight loss diet, your veterinarian can prescribe pain relieving medication and suggest nutritional supplements that will make your dog feel better. Glucosamine and chondroitin are safe and effective at relieving joint pain and can be used in conjunction with prescription treatments. It’s very important that you give the correct dose of medications in the correct schedule as some drugs can have side effects. You may also want to consider other natural therapies such as acupuncture or laser treatment, which may help ease arthritic pain.

    Supleneo flex is a nutritional joint supplement, which is suitable for all breeds, sizes and ages of dog and contains the key ingredients that can improve joint health, such as glucosamine.

    In addition, Supleneo flex’s natural liver flavour means dogs love the taste, making it’s easy and fun to give them their supplement every day. It is low calorie, so you can give it to your dog, instead of a treat without worrying about weight gain.

    For further information go to www.freedomtomove.co.uk

    Conclusion

    Canine osteoarthritis is not life-threatening, but it is progressive and can make your dog extremely uncomfortable.  With your help and support, there is no reason why he cannot enjoy a happy and fun-filled life.

    [note color=”#fddda5″]For further information about canine arthritis and canine arthritis treatment, including an on-line symptom checker please go to www.freedomtomove.co.uk[/su_note]

  • 27 Amazing Dog Training Tips to Remember

    All of us dog owners can identify with that moment where our dog does something that, frankly, we really wish they wouldn’t. Millions, no, billions are spent and earned around the world as a result of dog owners who simply want their beloved canine to behave more appropriately. Here we’ve got 27 foundational dog training tips that you should memorise to your internal hard-drive (that’ll be your brain!). Each excellent in its own way, but together – these are 27 rules that any dog owner will benefit from when it comes to having better behaved, happier dog and owner. Enjoy!

    1. Concentrate on what your dog is doing right. Professional dog trainers everywhere tell their students to reward their dogs when they do something right. This “positive training” method is in contrast to training that centres on punishment. Trainers recommend that owners praise and reward their dogs with treats and affection for good behaviour instead of just scolding them for bad behaviour.

    2. Be proactive and keep your dog from behaving badly in the first place. One of the most important tips that a professional dog trainer will tell his or her students is that good behaviour is not just the responsibility of the dog. The owner must make every effort to avoid giving the dog the ability to engage in bad behaviour while they are still learning the ropes. For example, if you notice that your dog likes to chew, it’s important to make sure that everyone in the home puts their shoes behind closed closet doors to remove temptation.

    3. Stop saying NO! One of the biggest mistakes that people make when training their dogs is saying NO without giving the dog an explanation of some type. Dogs, much like children, will become confused with a simple command of NO! Here’s what you should do instead. If your dog is stealing the cat’s food, tell him NO and then gently guide him to his own food dish. Or, if your dog is chewing on a table leg tell him NO and give him rawhide or another toy on which he can chew. Once your dog begins to actually use the new behaviour, reward him with treats, toys and praise.

    4. Learn the difference between boredom and separation anxiety. It is important to determine whether your dog is misbehaving when you leave home because he is bored, or because he is experiencing a case of separation anxiety. Figuring out why your dog is engaging in bad behaviours is usually the quickest way to combat the problem. If boredom seems to be the issue, you can probably keep your dog from destroying your house during alone time by providing him a toy stuffed with treats or something else that will help exercise his mind a little. If separation anxiety is the problem, you will need to learn ways to desensitise your dog to not only your absence, but also your “preparing to leave” routine.

    5. Consider trying clicker training. Clicker training is a relatively new technique in the dog training world and involves the owner using a specific sound to indicate to their dog that a particular behaviour is acceptable or desired. The owner will repeat the “click” and then reward their dog for his or her good behaviour. The positive feedback will encourage the dog to repeat the good behaviour.

    6. Be patient, persistent and consistent. These three behaviours on the part of an owner will develop similar behaviours in a dog. Patience means that you understand that learning new behaviours may take some time and a lot of practice and repetition. Persistence means that you, as the owner, do not give up when training does not seem to be going well. Consistent means that your dog knows what to expect from you. For example, if you always say NO when your dog is misbehaving, they learn to recognise NO as a sign of disapproval. Conversely, if you only give treats for good behaviour, your dog will learn to recognise such positive feedback.

    7. Start early. As soon as you get a dog, you should begin training in some capacity. If you are getting a late start, it may take some time to catch up. The key to remember is that training is often nothing more than reversing bad habits and behaviours. If your dog is young, they haven’t had a chance to develop a significant number of these bad behaviours and training will be simple. With an older dog, you really have to unteach everything the dog knows about behaviour and start to reteach behaviours that you find acceptable.

    8. Be kind and gentle for best results. An owner who constantly punishes his or her dog for bad behaviours is bound to be a lot less successful than an owner who is gentle and kind, rewarding his or her dog for acceptable behaviours. Consider offering your dog plenty of praise, and be gentle when redirecting his attention from a bad behaviour to one that is more acceptable to you.

    9. Have reasonable expectations. For example, if your dog misbehaves at home you are wise to expect that he will misbehave at the dog park or in the yard. Therefore, if your dog is having trouble paying attention to your commands you will want to make sure to keep him on a leash when outside. If your dog jumps on people in the house, expect that he will be rough with other dogs. You can reverse these behaviours through positive training, but you need to realise that bad behaviours will most likely continue regardless of the circumstances until they have been unlearned by your dog.

    10. Always enforce your commands. If you give commands, but do not enforce them, your dog will learn that there is no reason to listen to you. On the other hand, if you back up your commands with reinforcement he will quickly learn that you mean business. For example, if you tell your dog to sit and he ignores you, gently push him into the desired position and praise him. Always praise good behaviour as a means of enforcing your commands.

    11. Use the ONE command rule. Only give your dog each command one time. If you want your dog to sit, tell him SIT! If your dog decides to ignore the command the first time, gently place him into the sit position and then praise him. Do this with every command, so that your dog doesn’t think that your commands are optional. Stick to the ONE command rule, and your dog will quickly learn to take your commands seriously.

    12. Clearly define your commands. If you expect your dog to follow commands, then it is imperative that he understands what it is that you want him to do. For example, if you are trying to teach him to sit you will only confuse him if one time you use the command SIT and the next time SIT DOWN. If he’s confused he’ll most likely just ignore you. And this can lead to a vicious cycle. So, pay attention to the commands you are teaching and don’t confuse your dog by being inconsistent.

    13. Teach your dog to read your tone. Tone is just as important as the actual command that you are giving. Therefore, try to always use a consistent tone when issuing a command. Yelling a command will be less effective than just using a firm and authoritative tone. Pick a tone, and stick with it. Your dog will begin to recognise that tone, and respond to what you are telling him more effectively.

    14. Analyse stubbornness. If you find that your dog is stubborn and does not want to listen to your commands, there may be a simple explanation. Look for signs to see whether you are giving commands that your dog understands, whether your dog knows what to do when they hear a certain command and whether the command is creating an uncomfortable feeling in your dog. Most likely, you need to simply repeat training for a specific command and make your dog feel more comfortable through rewards and praise.

    15. Never use your dog’s name in anger. You should try to reprimand your dog without using his name so that there is no negative association with the name itself. When you praise your dog, call him by name so that the dog responds happily when he is called by name. You may find that simply using the dog’s name will get him to come to you eagerly in just a short period of time.

    16. Earn the respect of your dog. If you hit or scream at your dog, he will quickly lose respect for you. And instead of becoming a loving companion, will become reserved and fearful. Therefore, be sure to avoid training when you are in a bad mood and avoid negative reinforcement whenever possible. Staying upbeat will make your dog more willing to do whatever it is that you expect from him and help the two of your form a good relationship.

    17. Never use a training technique that is not natural and comfortable for you. If you are using a technique that does not come naturally, your dog will sense your hesitation as quickly as he will sense fear or anxiety. This can lead to your dog ignoring any commands given and cause frustration for both of you. Therefore, work to find techniques that you understand and feel comfortable with before starting to train your dog.

    18. Consider an obedience training class. There is no shame in asking for help with training your dog. Some people are simply not equipped to train their dog on their own, either due to a lack of patience, inexperience or not enough knowledge. Investigate different obedience training classes in your area and sit in on a few to determine whether or not they might work for you.

    19. Consider a training club. Some kennel associations offer training clubs to their members and the general public. These groups will often allow member access to professional trainers, and the knowledge of other members. Some breeds are more difficult to train than others, and having this type of resource available may be an excellent asset to your own training program.

    20. Learn about your dog’s breed. Different dog breeds may respond better to different methods of training. Dogs of different sises may also require different types of training. For example, if you have a small terrier who likes to jump it is less dangerous to all involved than if you have a St. Bernard that weighs in at 150 pounds who likes to jump! You will need to concentrate on different areas with different breeds and sises of dogs, and knowing what to expect is half of the battle.

    21. See yourself as the team leader during training. You are not the only one responsible for successful training sessions. If you see yourself and your dog as a team in training, you will be much more successful than if you assume the burden of all responsibility. You need to be aware of everything that goes on during training, because you are the leader. However, realise that your dog must be a willing participant for training to succeed.

    22. Remain calm and relaxed. Your dog will sense fear, anger and anxiety. Therefore, in order to be effective you must stay calm. Issue commands in an authoritative voice and be firm and consistent to keep your dog’s attention. Any behaviour on your part that is out of the ordinary will keep him from staying focused and reduce the effectiveness of your training efforts.

    23. Be consistent. If you aren’t serious about wanting your dog to perform or stop a specific action, then do not issue the command. Otherwise, you are going to teach your dog that you only mean what you say some of the time. This will lead to confusion on your dog’s part and frustration on yours. It’s much easier to only issue commands that you will enforce.

    24. Recognise and respect your dog’s needs. Just like people, you will find that when a dog’s basic needs are not being met he will misbehave more often. Be sure that you are providing quality food, plenty of water, constructive socialisation with people and other pets, adequate shelter and safety and lots of exercise. When these needs are met, teaching your dog the basics will be much easier.

    25. Practice, practice, practice. Practice makes perfect, isn’t that what your mom always said? Well, dog training is no exception! If you’re going to work on training your dog, make sure that you practice consistently for several 5-10 minute intervals throughout the day. Focus on practicing one skill at a time until your dog has mastered it and then move on to something new. Be sure to revisit already learned tricks and behaviours regularly though so they are not forgotten.

    26. Expose your dog, slowly over time, to different situations. It is critical to emphasise to your dog that you expect him to behave consistently regardless of his surroundings. One of the best ways to do this is to socialise with your dog. Introduce him to new people and other animals (dogs, cats, etc.) so that he learns to be social. Take him into unfamiliar surroundings whenever feasible so that he learns that regardless of where he is you are still there and in charge. This will allow you to have more effective control, and will alleviate anxiety caused by unfamiliar people and surroundings that can lead to misbehaviour in the future.

    27. Find out what works. Not every child learns the same way, and not every dog learns the same way. Therefore, you should attempt to use different training techniques until your find one that you are comfortable with, and that works with your particular dog. The general rule to remember is that if a technique isn’t working after a week, you should try something else.

  • Dog Attacks -Why Blaming Breeds is Missing The Point

    Dog Attacks -Why Blaming Breeds is Missing The Point

    Dog bites are, in the main, avoidable and a better understanding of dog body language can help us get somewhere near to understanding the reasons and motivations for dog bites and serious dog attacks.

    Before we begin though, let’s ask – and try to answer – the question of whether dog bites are a breed specific problem.

    Dog Bites: A Breed Specific Problem?

    Across dog walking hot spots you will find a mixture of breeds, shapes, and sizes, often allowed to roam around off their leads in the open spaces.

    It can be very intimidating when a big, strong, dog approaches you and after a rise in the number of attacks by the popular pet, many people are calling for new measures to make sure that dogs are kept on leads. But are dogs being given a bad reputation unfairly?

    I myself am terrified if a large dog comes up to me as I walk my Collie cross on open fields near my home. However this never used to be the case.

    Around four years ago my family bought home a young male Weimaraner from the local dog’s home. At first everything was fine but after a few weeks things turned nasty. He went on to bite three members of the family, including me, meaning that we sadly had to send him back to the dog’s home.

    It was especially heartbreaking, as 99% of the time he was a normal, loving dog. Something seemed to snap in his mind, he’d have five minutes of savageness then return to being nice and look up at you with his soppy sad eyes. In my opinion this could only be put down to how he was brought up. The same as if a human was treated badly it could have effects later on in their lives and on their mental state.

    Despite how much I loved him and felt sorry for him it is the reason why I would never be able to trust a big, strong dog again. Just in case. I still hold the scars from his attack, and know that to have a dog’s jaw clenched around you is one of the most terrifying things that I have ever experienced.

    The argument for keeping dog’s on a lead is simple. A dog can turn nasty at any time, and recent reports of family pets turning on children is a clear example of this. When I am out walking my dog not only am I in fear for myself but also for my dog, as she is small, not big built, and would not stand a chance if attacked by a big dog, an increasingly likely event in today’s society in which many dogs are bread to attack.

    One breed in particular that has developed a bad reputation is the Staffordshire Bull Terrier. At all the local dogs homes inside almost every kennel is a dog of this breed or a Staffordshire Bull Terrier cross, with the amount of Rottweilers not far behind.

    Voluntary group and registered charity, Animal Lifeline, based in Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire has saved over 10,000 dogs since it was founded over thirty years ago. The group never puts a dog down and always has at least 100 dogs in its kennels waiting to be re-homed.

    Nick Fletcher from the centre explains why he thinks so many of these breeds get brought in: “We get all types of dogs in though there is a higher proportion of Staffies than there used to be. This is because the Staffy has become a fashion accessory for many young people, mainly young men. They then find that either the dog isn’t as fierce as they thought, and want to get rid of it, or their circumstances change, particularly if they have a partner. Young couples often have a dog until they have a baby, then they want to dump the dog. Also, many couples split up after a while and return to parents or go into rented accommodation, where they cannot keep a dog.”

    It seems that like with a lot of things in today’s world looks are more important than the dog’s behaviour.

    Nick added: “People often select a dog because of its looks, so smaller prettier dogs are always the first to be homed. Lovely dogs with nice temperaments are often ignored and remain in kennels for months just because they are plain in appearance.”

    It can be easily seen why these people think they look tough with one of these dogs when they are basically being used as a weapon. Some dogs go on to be re-homed and make loving family pets but others will never find a home ever again because of their vicious mentality from their upbringing.

    Despite their bad reputation, created through the media, Staffordshire Bull Terriers are in fact known as a trustworthy animal and sometimes referred to as the ‘Nanny Dog’ for their great affection towards children. Owners of so called ‘status dogs’ believe the facts and figures used in today’s news stories about dog attacks are unfair as the majority of attacks by smaller breeds go unreported.

    Daniel Berrisford, from Stoke-on-Trent, has owned two Staffordshire Bull Terriers and agrees that the negative press towards the breed is unfair.

    “I think the Staffordshire Bull Terrier is the same as any other dog; it all depends on how you bring them up as to how they turn out. If you bring a Staffy up to fight then they have the mentality to fight, however if you bring a Staffy up as a loving house dog that is what they will become. Both of the Staffies that I have had would not hurt anyone and I believe it is because they were brought up like that. I think that if you bring them up in the right way you will not find a more loyal and loving dog.

    “Some owners only have a Staffy or other strong dogs because they want to bring it up to fight and attack but I think that you could find any breed that has attacked somebody, so for a Staffy to have a particularly bad reputation is ridiculous.

    “Little dogs often come up to larger dogs and go to attack them, even if they are on a lead but because the bigger dog retaliates and can do more damage they get the blame. Smaller dogs should be kept on a lead just the same because they can cause just as much trouble.”

    The truth is that no dog should be branded a vicious breed when the victims of most attacks do not recognise the exact breed so stick to what they know, and certain dogs get the blame, the reason why there are no real statistics for dog attacks in this country.

    It is also difficult to distinguish what actually is an ‘attack’. A recent incident in my area occurred in which the police were involved as a dog had knocked somebody over and ripped a coat. A total accident in which the dog was playing, but accused of a vicious attack just for being a big animal.

    The truth is that however much the media tries to scare people about our favourite furry friends, the increase in ‘attacks’ has not risen that much and that dog attacks and collisions involving children have actually declined by approximately 18% over the last 10 years.

    With a UK dog population of around eight million, it is an issue that cannot be ignored. Measures need to be brought in to deal with the irresponsible owners who are giving all dogs a bad name, and to protect the public from them so that we can feel safe around the nation’s most popular pet again.

    K9 Magazine editor Ryan O’Meara outlines his thesis for our misunderstanding of canine behaviour, body language and intentions as a primary motivating factor in our failure to spot the warning signs of dog aggression.

    Understanding Canine Aggression

    In this report, you will learn about:

    Understanding errors of interpretation
    Understanding motives for aggressive behaviour
    Understanding how to minimise risk

    Summary:
    Misinterpretation of canine signals, body language and emotions due to anthropomorphic tendencies.

    Why do humans feel the need to attribute human qualities to animals in order to better understand or accept them?

    What emotions do dogs have? What we happen to presume about what dogs think is, by definition, open to interpretation and in reality unless dogs learn to talk we shall never actually know what dogs think, although we can, will and should speculate. Dogs dream, we therefore conclude they have ‘imagination’ what they dream about, we do not know. As much as we may not like to admit it, we understand dogs a lot less than we realise.

    Can dogs have a social conscience? If not they can’t possibly understand or display emotions such as guilt, shame, jealousy etc – all of which are traits often attributed to dogs in an increasingly anthropomorphic society which is conditioned to believe everything from gloved Disney mice to the socially conscious tales of Lassie. It’s little wonder we grew up with such a distorted view of animal emotions, motives and drives.

    It is my finding, having studied many dogs of different breeds in different environments that, whilst dogs are exceptionally responsive to our own emotions and body language, their own emotional spectrum is significantly different. This can be best addressed by asking the simple question; Does my dog really love me?

    Does My Dog Love Me?

    Considering how complex it is for us to understand such a powerful and misunderstood concept in humans, who have the power of speech and the written word to explain themselves, it is surprising how many of us assume that our dogs love us, love being with us and show loyalty to us for reasons equitable to those of a fellow human.

    The most probable answer is dogs do not ‘love us’ in the sense that we love them. They are hard-wired to appease us, to fit in with us and to display behaviours which suit us and our needs – it is the fact that we love them for this which often mistranslates as them performing these behaviours because they love us back.

    It is my view that canine emotions are expressed in basic forms. They may display many variations of these basic emotions. A dog can be fearful – and this can often be misinterpreted as guilt or shame. A dog may be fearful of losing rank, status or a tried and tested route to food – and this can often me misinterpreted as jealousy or envy of other dogs or people – it is still a demonstration of a variant of basic fear behaviour.

    It is us who attribute our social values and emotional structure to dogs in order to try and make them easier to understand. It is the dog’s unique ability to allow us to believe this that has to be part responsible for their successful relationship with man. The dog will be, whatever we want him to be. This is an error in translation.

    After all, if we were truly looking for a companion animal whose emotions were closely linked to our own, surely we would have domesticated the apes and we would now be talking about man’s best friend as a small, domesticated monkey. After all they have many of the same skills that dogs have, they are superior in intelligence, dexterity and trainability.

    Could it be that the reason dogs have slotted their paws so firmly under the table of man is because we can attribute any emotion they display as we please? If we say it, we can believe it to be true – with a dog – but with an ape, perhaps it is the fact that they ARE so much like us that it is harder for us to enjoy such a mutually fulfilling relationship with them?

    The dog, for want of a better description, will be anything we want him to be. They will play the role of court jester or funeral mourner, if they think it’s what we want. Perhaps it is this for reason alone that they have become the most successful socially domesticated animals on the planet. It is also possibly the reason why the more we think we know about them, the more we are kidding ourselves.

    The dog is, in my opinion, a still largely misunderstood animal. We control their environment, their diet, their stimulation, their entire lives – it’s little wonder they feel compelled to ‘love’ us.

    The perception problem: Dogs see our world from a different perspective. We can look at the same object or experience the same situations but our and their perception of both can be entirely different. There are various reasons for this. To understand what it is to see the world through the eyes of a dog we need to first accept the physical differences.

    They spend their lives between putting their nose to the ground and their eyes gazing upwards. For a dog, life is not conducted at eye level (like us) it is a story happening underfoot and events happen from way on high above. This very fact alone gives us a sense of different the world appears to a dog.

    We fail to acknowledge such a fundamental difference in perspective at our own peril. Understanding and accepting this literal matter of fact helps us to try and see things from the dog’s perspective. In the world of the dog, people are most often regarded as friends or are observed as neutral, non threatening animals. However, not all dogs share this view of all people and it is an extremely serious error for any person to assume it.

    Motives for aggression in dogs can vary and are dependent on a number of key factors.

    Genetics / breeding
    Social development in key life-stages
    Environmental factors
    Behavioural conditioning / reinforcement
    Perspective problems / misjudging situations
    Misdirection of drives

    A dog’s genetic make-up and breeding is a factor too often overlooked in instances where the less ‘extreme’ purpose bred dogs are concerned. A relative novice is inclined toward understanding that a Siberian Husky will not make an ideal pet for an owner who leads a largely urban lifestyle with little or no opportunity to provide regular opportunities for mental and physical stimulation.

    However where the edges begin to blur are with breeds (or cross breeds where breeding is unknown) which can often present an image which entices novice owners toward them without properly understanding the very specific lifestyle requirements the dog is likely to demand.

    It is the case in my experience that there are many dogs produced by people who do not have sufficient skills, experience or desire to fully comprehend the importance of identifying the suitability of the people they are supplying dogs to. Similarly, many dogs are bred with little or no attention paid to the quality of temperament within their breeding stock. Hence there is a perpetual problem – in select numbers – where unsuitable breeders supply unsuitable dogs to unsuitable new owners. Addressing this issue within the structure of existing UK legislation is not possible.

    Coming back to the central theme of under-prepared dog owners, failure to place significant emphasis or attention on the key life-stage development of dogs is a monumental failing.

    A Dog’s Key Life-Stage Phases:

    Aged between 6 and 16 weeks (extremely important)
    Aged between 16 weeks and 6 months (important)
    Aged between 6 months and 14 months (VITAL!)

    The average day of the average dog is spent waiting for stimulation or events which can break up the monotony of the dog’s normal routine. In some dogs, attempts to stimulate themselves or indeed relieve boredom can manifest in displays of destruction or even aggression. An owner’s failure to properly recognise the signs of problem behaviour, especially displays of aggression – even as a puppy – can encourage the dog to condition itself to responding to certain environmental events with aggression. Small, relatively unimportant events can spark an extreme response in a dog where inappropriate behaviour is left unchecked.

    Aggressive behaviours can be the result of misdirected drives.

    Example Scenario:
    A young dog – for the purpose of this example we shall say a West Highland Terrier – develops a habit of getting excited at 4.00pm each week day when the school children walk by on their way home.

    His initial response is curiosity as a result of what he sees an exciting visual stimulus in his otherwise relatively stimulation-free day. On some occasions the children notice the attention the dog is giving them and they tease him. His response is to bark and jump up at the front door.

    Over time this conditioned behaviour worsens. Each day he starts to bark, jump and claw at the door as soon as he sees any children in school uniform walking past. His owner’s response to this behaviour is to shout at him as and when he starts barking and jumping up at the door. His owner doesn’t re-direct the behaviour or address it in any other way other than to occasionally shout. Eventually the inevitable happens and the dog manages to escape through the front door when a visitor is leaving the house. He runs out in to the street and bites the first school child he reaches. His owner insists he has never done anything like this before (failing to recognise he had never had the chance before).

    This scenario above is a simple example of how behaviour left unchecked can result in an actual attack. The dog has displayed a clear misdirection of an intense prey drive which was initially piqued as a result of an unstimulated lifestyle and escalated as a result of both the uncontrollable element of the children who teased him but exacerbated by his owner’s shouting in response to his barking, which the dog reads as either a reward for his behaviour or sees it as his owner ‘joining in’ with his behaviour.

    The problem is confounded as the dog’s owner has failed to grasp the dog’s perspective of what is happening at 4.00pm each day – whilst his owner sees the behaviour as the dog just letting off some steam for 5 minutes per day, the dog’s perspective of the situation is far more serious – he is seeing the school children is prey items which should be pursued vigorously. The dog’s owner has not recognised the ‘value’ placed on the school children by the dog.

    The example scenario shows a failure to provide the dog with sufficient daily stimulation, a fundamental misinterpretation of the dog’s emotions (believing him to be ‘letting off steam’), a perspective problem (not recognising how the dog is viewing the school children) and a failure to re-direct a very prominent prey drive behaviour, resulting in a completely avoidable dog attack.

    Aggressive behaviour should always, without any exception, be referred to professionals starting with an assessment by a veterinarian to check that there is no medical issue causing the dog’s behaviour.

    The key to educating the public about aggressive behaviours in dogs is to impress on dog owners the need for the following:

    Initially be aware of how to identify a responsible, high quality dog breeder or rescue shelter
    Learn to understand canine emotions and body language. Avoid anthropomorphic errors.
    Be aware of the importance of critical key-life stages in the dog’s development
    Understand and implement bite inhibition techniques early and maintain them
    Provide sufficient stimulation and recognise the role environmental conditioning plays
    Understand canine drives and redirect undesirable behaviour as soon as it manifests

    In simple terms:

    Learn to understand the dog, don’t assume. Provide exercise and stimulation appropriate to the breed and the dog’s individual personality. Learn to recognise misdirected drive. In even simpler terms: dog bites and dog aggression are not breed specific, they are dog (and owner) specific. Dogs are the product of their genetics, upbringing and environment. Irresponsible supply of dogs is a major contributory factor as is the continuing failure to properly understand how dogs think, why they behave as they do and, more crucially, a failure to spot early warning signs of aggression or, more unforgivably, a failure to take appropriate action as and when a dog does show signs of aggression. Risk assessment is often poor in cases of serious dog attacks on children. Owners often misplace trust in their pets when they have no good reason to, particularly if a dog has never been exposed to certain scenarios in the past (e.g. young children visiting the home of a dog who is not used to them).

    Dog bites and dog attacks can be largely avoided. Breed bans have been a monumental failure to address the problem of serious and fatal attacks and serve as an ongoing reminder that it’s not just dog owners who misunderstand the primary causes of dog bites, legislators are as guilty of this and that, quite frankly, is unacceptable. If we really want to understand and reduce dog bites, we have to do more to better understand our dogs, properly train them and put ourselves in a position to understand and mitigate risk factors.

    © Ryan O’Meara. All rights reserved.
    You may re-distribute this white paper
    provided all credits and attributions are maintained.

  • My Dog is Nervous, What Can I Do?

    Owning a dog with a predisposition toward nervousness is not an insurmountable obstacle. These top tips should help.

    5) In situations where your dog shows fear towards strangers or visitors to them home, try and explain to visitors that you would prefer if simply ignored the dog completely, not even looking at the dog once or paying them the slightest bit of attention. Very often visitors feel the need to try and ‘comfort’ the dog and this can lead to the dog feeling even more threatened. 

    http://i.imgur.com/K2LQJ.jpg 

    Once the dog has learned not to react at all to visitors, ask the occasional ‘dog-knowledgeable’ guest to nonchalantly and without any ceremony, simply drop a treat by the dog and then walk off in another direction. It is important they don’t try and make a fuss of the dog or offer the treat from the hand. Doing this regularly with different guests will accustom the dog to the idea that all visitors are not intruders to the ‘den’ and they are not intent on causing harm to the dog or his pack. 

    4) Complimentary therapies and treatments can be very helpful for aiding nerves. Diet also plays an important role. If a dog is unusually nervous, listless, depressed or lacking coat condition a change of food may be in order. There are specialist dieticians and holistic vets who may be able to greatly increase your dog’s physical and psychological well-being, thus improving the dog’s confidence and reducing nervousness. Try the Internet or Yellow pages and look for holistic vets and animal dieticians. 

    3) Keep in your mind at all times how your body language impacts the shy or nervous dog. You are a very large creature with an ability to make all sorts of frightening noises (hoovers, washing machines, shouting at the TV). Imagine another creature that was the equivalent distance in size to what you are to a dog and you will have an appreciation of how the shy or nervous dog may see you. 

    Now imagine that creature ‘bearing’ down on you with wide eyes, a booming voice and hands the size of saucepans on their way to touch your face. Frightening isn’t it? Well, to a shy or nervous dog that can be how they see the world of humans and your body language can be interpreted wrongly by the dog. 

    The fact that you are so much bigger than him and the fact that people at large generally have a tendency to approach dogs from a standing position thus bearing down on them can make the world a scary place. Always try and narrow the size difference with a nervy dog by getting down to their level. Avoid direct eye contact at all times, don’t wear sunglasses (to a dog, they look like a pair of wide, staring eyes that never go away) and remember how the dog sees the world from different angles than you. Body language is vital in helping nervous dogs overcome their fears. 

    2) Make use of other dogs. Dogs, as a rule, will copy and emulate their canine counterparts. If you have a nervous dog it can be a wonderful experience for him or her to meet a carefully selected friend. Just one other dog to begin with. Let them play, let the explore and the nervous dog will very soon begin to absorb the confidence of their bolder playmate and mimic their behaviour around people. It may take a while but regular ‘play sessions’ with other dogs can be the ultimate technique for curing many of the nervousness dog’s hang-ups about life. 

    Ensure the play mate is well selected, is playful but not boisterous and has no aggressive tendencies. Don’t, under any circumstances try and help a nervous dog by introducing them to an equally nervous playmate, it will double the problem. Meeting other dogs is a pastime best done socially where a ‘screening’ process can take place. Taking a nervous dog somewhere where there are likely to be lots of other dogs can be problematic. Explain your problems to friends, family, co-workers and be honest about your need to find a well-mannered, confident dog for yours to play with from time to time. 

    1) Consistency is a word used by all dog trainers and behaviour experts on a, well, consistent basis. Never is it more pertinent than in the case of the nervous or shy dog. You may be an erratic person, disorganised, impulsive, loud, prone to bad moods or shouting with none of these characteristics meant for the dog’s consumption. However even the most ebullient of pooches will catch the vibes if something’s ‘up’ in the household. 

    Ensuring stability, calm and an even tempered approach to home life will not only allow you to live longer and avoid an ulcer it will, above any other training tip or technique, help the more nervous of dogs to adjust to the world. Be patient, be calm, be understanding and be empathetic towards the dog’s disposition. Even if he or she has done something particularly naughty you must accept that there are certain ways to correct the problem that may work on 99.9{d4f4ff813a06e2c77cbb9c6effe011ebffe2f8986e44983e90e08c54deb62f63} of dogs, even on dogs you have previous owned, but on THIS nervous or shy pet, the wrong response from you could literally kill their spirit.

  • Feeding Older Dogs

    Feeding older dogs doesn’t have to mean drastic changes. Obesity is possibly the most common health related problem to affect dogs as they get older. An overweight dog is an unhappy dog and subsequent health problems can drastically reduce a dog’s life and render his later years void of any real quality. The key is to be aware of nutritional requirement changes when feeding older dogs, adjust slowly and gradually and keep on top of your older dog’s specific feeding requirements on a regular basis.

    Feeding Older Dogs: Nutritional Requirements

    All dogs relish a tasty treat and they are an excellent way to reward good behaviour, but if overused your dog could end up suffering from obesity before you even realise you are spoiling him. It is important to pay close attention to your dog’s diet for many reasons, but particularly if your dog is overweight. A balanced diet is essential to keeping a dog fit and healthy.

    Feeding Older Dogs

    Modern prepared foods contain an adequate supply of essential nutrients without too many calories, as do many home mixed diets. Complete, dry dog food is popular today, as it is an easy to prepare meal which contains a good supply of all the right nutrients. Commercial canned foods, whether mixed or on their own, are a good source of nutrition and are easy to prepare and store. Some dog owners favour a nutritional supplement to add to the dog’s meal, rice is a good source of carbohydrates and is easily mixed with other foods.

    Feeding Older Dogs: Be Treat Aware

    Certain treats make a nutritious supplement to a meal and also serve as a good reward for him, but dog biscuits alone to not offer adequate nutrition to be served as meal on their own.

    The majority of young, healthy and active dogs are at a low risk of becoming overweight as most of their calorific intake is used during play but as they get older and their metabolic rates slow in conjunction with a decline in expended energy, the chances of calories leading to a piling on of the pounds grows higher every day.

    If you have ever taken your dog off the lead in a large forest or field you will have noticed that they will always do more miles than you because they run off and come back as you are walking and thus for every mile you walk, they will normally RUN four!

    This is one of the reasons that young, active dogs stay healthy whether their diet is perfect or not. But there will come a point in the dog’s life when he or she is unable to do as much exercise so it is important to control the diet accordingly.

    Scroll down for some expert nutritional advice in our Q&A with Suzie from  Pawtions.co.uk about the benefits of portion control

    feeding older dogs

    Monitor Lifestyle Changes in Your Older Dog

    During the more active years, it is still important to take care of your dog’s diet to ensure that they are receiving a good balance of protein and other valuable nutrients. Your vet will be able to advise you on this matter should any uncertainty arise.

    You may not notice it at first, but should your dog become obese there are certain tell tale signs apart from the obvious physical weight gain. A diminished level of activity not conducive to their age is always a cause for concern, but a likely cause is that he or she has put on a little weight.

    Another symptom is laboured breathing. If your dog struggles for breath after an activity which he or she could once perform effortlessly then perhaps it is time to get the scales out.

    Avoiding Weight Gain in Older Dogs

    As a dog owner it is often difficult to notice if your dog is putting on weight because you see them every day. Paying close attention to other elements of their physical state may enlighten you to any weight problems.

    As the majority of dogs become less and less active in their later years it is often difficult for them to loose weight through increased exercise, so it is up to you as an owner to monitor and control what your dog eats. Prevention, as is so often the case, is better than cure, especially when it comes to a more senior dog and weight control.

    A good way of monitoring weight is by simply reducing portion size. It is often the case that a regular portion of dry or complete dog food offers more than enough nutrition and therefore it is quite possible to reduce the meal sizes without affecting the nutritional intake of the dog. In this day in age, with the science behind many commercial pet foods, you may be able to find the perfect, balanced diet your breed of dog needs, relating to their age, on your supermarket or pet shop shelf.

    Target Weight When Feeding Older Dogs

    You should have a target weight in mind and plan thoroughly to ensure your dog does not err over or above it to any great degree. Your vet should be able to advise what your dog’s ideal target weight is – don’t go on breed averages – one Labrador could be as many as 10lbs heavier than another yet still be perfectly fine weight wise.

    If your dog has put on a few too many pounds as they have gotten older, a diet is needed. Unlike us, a dog is unable to steal biscuits or cakes in the middle of the night so they are not reliant on their own will-power to lose weight, they are reliant on YOU ensuring they don’t become dangerously obese, so don’t give in to his pleas for a chocolate digestive every time you go to the kitchen!

    As a dog owner it is important for you to be disciplined. Your dog will probably not notice the reduced size of his meals. But you will, so ensure you don’t sneak him a treat unless you have reduced a similar amount of calories from his main meal – it’s a balancing act of which you have complete control and your dog is relying on you to get right.

    Older dogs have special needs in many areas and diet is one of the most important.

    Don’t let your dog’s later years in life be ruined by health problems that can easily be avoided when it comes to weight, too many calories or general nutritional mismatch between your dog’s age and their specific daily nutritional requirements. If you feed a natural diet, monitor the volumes. If you feed a commercial pet food, make sure you have the most suitable one for your dog’s age, weight, breed and activity level. When it comes to feeding older dogs, the science is all there, you just need to follow it.

    Expert Advice from Suzie, Pawtions Veterinary Nurse and Nutritionist

    feeding older dogs

    Why is portion control so important for dogs?

    At Pawtions we believe that portion control is very important to maintain a healthy life for each and every dog. When faced with the massive choice of dog foods available to us, it is very easy to become confused when trying to work out how much food our dog actually requires. Feeding guidelines are often very generalised and can’t take into consideration your dog’s age, breed, level of exercise, or whether your dog has been neutered.

    We often over-indulge our dogs out of love, but a quick treat a little too often or a bowl of leftovers from your own meals may lead to dietary problems or your dog becoming overweight. This can also upset the careful balance of nutrients provided by the dog food. By feeding a portion size which has been recommended for your individual animal – such as that provided by Pawtions – you know that you are providing enough nutrients, vitamins and minerals to meet your dog’s unique needs.

    In their PAW report of the last year the PDSA assessed the weight and general health of nearly 30,000 dogs across the UK. They discovered that 35% of UK dogs are overweight. This is a very alarming figure, especially when we consider ourselves a nation of dog lovers. An overweight dog cannot possibly enjoy life to the full, is likely to encounter more health problems, which may sadly lead to an early grave.

    What are your key priorities when choosing the perfect plan for dogs from Pawtions?

    We understand that all dogs are unique, so we make sure we have all the information we need to really help us to understand each dog better.

    By asking the owner relevant questions about their dog, our veterinary nutritionist can work out the portion size for each and every dog individually. This takes the confusion away from the owner when trying to work out how much food their dog actually needs. It also means continuity in the household when the job of feeding pets is shared by several people.

    In order to provide customers with a recommended feeding plan, we ask them to provide us with vital pieces of information including:
    • age
    • breed
    • weight
    • sex
    • whether your dog is neutered
    • daily exercise
    • physique
    • any special dietary requirements
    • your preferred flavour

    It’s very important that the information customers provide is as accurate as possible and also kept up to date. We recommend that owners regularly weigh their dogs so that we can change their portion size should their nutritional requirements change.

    However, the Pawtions perfect plan isn’t just about the food! We also include treats, poop bags, flea and wormer treatment (just when they’re needed) and free gifts to provide a complete care package.

    Do you think age and breed make a difference in selecting the right diet for your dog?

    Yes, definitely! By telling us your dog’s breed we are able to check whether this falls into the recognised weight bracket. If the dog’s weight doesn’t fall within this bracket, we discuss this further with the owner, as all dogs are unique, and breed standards can very significantly.

    We understand that small dogs may prefer a smaller kibble, and larger breeds a larger one. Also, different breeds are classed as puppies and senior dogs at different ages. Therefore knowing the breed allows us to decide when to recommend a change from a puppy diet to a maintenance one, or a maintenance diet to a senior one.

    Puppies require very different levels of nutrients to adult dogs, so must be fed a diet that meets their specific needs. They also need more regular feeding, and we take this into consideration when calculating portion size.

    However, as dogs age, their energy levels decrease, reducing their calorific need. Their nutritional requirements also change with the aging process and we believe the diet should change to support this.

    What 5 top tips would you give dog owners who might be thinking about changing diet to a more portion controlled diet?

    When thinking about changing your dog’s diet to a recommended Pawtions plan you should consider the following points:

    1) If your dog has serious medical problems, we strongly advise you contact your vet before
    you make any change of diet.

    2) Provide us with as much information as possible so that we can recommend the right Pawtions plan for your dog.

    3) It’s really important to make sure you gradually introduce a new food. The best way is to start adding a small amount to the current food. Slowly increase the proportion of new food to current food over the period of a week until a complete change is achieved.

    4) We encourage you to weigh your dog regularly so that we can make any alterations to the diet as necessary.

    5) If you have any questions regarding your dog’s health or diet, we encourage owners to ask, it could be important. We are here to help.

    Lastly, tell us a little about Pawtions. Where did your inspiration to start the company and healthy menu for dogs come from?

    The idea for Pawtions stemmed from our founder’s own frustrations with looking after and feeding Bella, his cocker spaniel. First he would have to drive to a supermarket or pet store and carry a big heavy bag back to the car. Then, once home he would have to find somewhere to store it. He found there was a tendency to be over-generous when the bag was first opened and the food fresh, whilst towards the end of the bag the food often become dried out and crumbly, losing its appeal. He also found that he would run out of food, treats and poop bags at the most inconvenient times.

    But the biggest problem came with the inconvenience of deciding how much to feed, due to the vague feeding guidelines, and then weighing out the correct amount every day!

    At Pawtions we know what it means to be lucky enough to own a dog and we want to encourage people to be more aware of their dog’s nutritional needs. Through our complete care package we hope to promote responsible dog ownership. The package includes wormer and flea treatment throughout the year, so you’ll never forget when treatments are due, free tasty treats, and free poop bags. Now and again we’ll also pop in a surprise toys as a little present for your best friend. All this is delivered to your door every 4 weeks.

    To find out more about Pawtions and investigate a plan for your dog, visit www.pawtions.co.uk today!

    Resources: Older Dogs

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HimMjk-1rg4

  • How to Avoid Dog Health Problems

    We all love our dogs and want to do the best for them. You can give them all the love, attention and affection in the world but you also need to be aware of your pet’s health, so you can give them a longer, happier and healthier life.

    From the day we bring our new puppy home, there are some key areas to look out for to help keep your dog healthy and enjoying life to the full:

    Dog Health Problems Start From The Inside

    · Diet: Providing the right food for their breed, size and age is vital. Making sure they get all the right nutrients – whilst not over or under feeding.

    A large dog, such as a Great Dane, has different dietary needs to that of a Chihuahua, so some food brands even offer tailormade diets.

    Dog Health Symptoms: Is Your Dog’s Weight A Cause For Concern?

    · Exercise: You should be making sure they get enough exercise to keep them fit and active for as long as possible – dog walking can work to your benefit too!

    · Vet visits: You should make sure they get regular health checks and injections with your local vet – as you would with your doctor – to prevent illness occurring and catch problems before they become threatening.

    So how do you check if your dog is healthy?

    This article discuss about the best cbd oil for dogs with arthritis and takes you through a ten-point health check that you can easily undertake at home. It works just as well on cats as it does dogs and I’ve called it the DIY MOT health check. You can monitor your pets’ health in-between regular visits to your vet, which will help alert you to any problem areas.

    Eyes

    Should be clear and sparkling without any discharge or redness, as this could be a sign of infection. The eyelids should also be checked for warts or cysts. Diet can also have an impact on eye health, if you have concerns, consider switching your dog’s food.

    Teeth & gums

    Gently lift your pet’s lips – the gums should be salmon pink, don’t worry some dogs can have naturally black pigmented gums, teeth should be clean and white with no yellow plaque or tartar and there should not be a bad smell!

    Look out for loose teeth or bleeding gums, which should also be taken care of by your vet.

    Paws

    Check the pads for open cuts, splinters or seeds which can become embedded. Nails should be short and healthy looking without splitting. Some dogs will need to have nails regularly clipped at the vet.

    Body checks

    Check for any lumps or wounds by running your hands over your dog’s body and part the hair to check for signs of fleas or ticks. Your vet can recommend suitable treatments. Check a dog’s testicles and bitch’s mammary glands for any unusual swellings.

    Weight

    Be aware of what weight your dog should be and monitor it carefully – overfeeding can be as damaging as underfeeding. As a general rule run your hands down the sides of your dog’s belly and you should be able to feel the rib cage.

    By feeling the rib cage you should be able to tell if they are under, over or just right! If your pet seems overweight check with your vet, they may recommend a light food, which has fewer calories or you might consider a different type of a dog bowl which steadies how fast your dog eats his food.

    There are some which are floor bowls, which look similar to a puzzle, and dogs navigate the ‘spikes’ to eat. Or a raised dog bowl which can either sit in a dog bowl stand or be wall mounted alters how your dog eats, and can also slow them down.

    Obesity can contribute to heart disease, joint disease, diabetes and many more health complications. As in humans exercise also plays an important part in weight control. Make sure your dog is getting plenty of exercise. Walks are the easy answer. Large dogs don’t necessarily need more exercise; it really does depend on their breed and age.

    Ears

    The inside of your dog’s ears should be clean with no odour. If they do smell this could be a sign that they are infected. Ears should be cleaned regularly – ask your vet to recommend a cleaning product and just as importantly, the best way to clean them without damage.

    Muzzle

    The nose should be free of discharge – pets get colds too. Noses should be wet but not runny, a dry nose could also signal health problems.

    Coat and skin

    The coat should look glossy and feel tangle free, not dull. Look out for any balding or irritation which could be caused by allergies, mange etc and should be checked out by a vet for treatment. The skin should not feel greasy or look flaky (no dandruff).

    If you have concerns that your dog’s dull coat or flaky skin may be caused by an allergy, speak with your vet. If you are concerned that it may be parasite related, seek out a good flea treatment for dogs to restore.

    Energy

    Dependent on its age, your dog should be alert and energetic without any signs of stiffness or breathlessness – any reluctance to exercise should be looked into. Feeding the right amount of food and nutrients to your pet helps make sure they maintain high energy levels even into old age.

    Under the tail

    Hold up the tail and see if there are any signs of soreness or discharge. Also check your dog’s stools, they should be firm and fairly small – this is a sign of healthy digestion.

    Stools are a good way of determining your pet’s health, a sudden change can bring your attention to a health issue that might have gone unnoticed. It is also the way your animal gets rid of all the waste in his food that he doesn’t need. Lots of products are bulked up with water and cereals when one of the most important ingredients to carnivorous animals is protein – that means meat.

    A good rule of thumb is: the more meat ingredients a food contains the higher the quality of the feed, look on the side of the bag where the ingredients are listed, manufacturers have to list the largest quantity first.

    What are the benefits of dry over wet food?

    Once you’ve determined your dog’s life stage and lifestyle needs, you need to decide whether to feed dry or wet (canned) food.

    It’s important to remember that while dry food can be left in a bowl, wet food should not be left out all day if not consumed. Therefore, dry food can often be the most convenient choice for busy people.

    Although a recent BBC report suggested that brushing is the best way to keep a dog’s teeth clean, dry foods also promote good oral hygiene for teeth and gums through abrasive action.

    How do I switch my dog’s food?

    If you are looking to change your dog’s diet we would recommend you introduce the new food gradually over a period of 4 days.

    Make the change slowly, try mixing of the new food with of old food then gradually change the proportions over the next three days until he’s eating new food. There are also a few tricks you could use to help make the change over to a complete dry food– for example, start by adding a little water or by warming the food in the microwave.

    Vet visits

    Remember that although you can monitor your pet’s health at home using the above guidelines I would also strongly recommend you make regular check-ups appointments with your local vet even if your pet seems healthy. And if this article has alerted you to any health issues please do contact your vet for a more thorough examination.

    Dog Health Symptom Checker

  • Small Breed Dog Food

    Small Breed Dog Food

    Small Breed Dog Food – Is A Specialist Diet For Small Breeds Worthwhile?

    Small dog breeds have specific, specialist nutritional requirements. In the case of a small breed puppy, their stomach is not large enough to hold sufficient food in one feeding to provide his daily nutritional needs without causing stress to their system, so smaller, broken down meals are advised. This is why some commercial dog food suppliers are now providing dog owners with the option of specialist small breed dog food.

    Small Breed Dog Food (Chihuahua)

    Small Breed Dog Food For Puppies

    When a puppy graduates from mother’s milk to solid food at about six weeks of age, he will require three to four meals a day, with the exception of Toys, who may need four to six meals. When he reaches about four to five months old, twice-a-day feedings may be sufficient. He can graduate to once-a-day meals at eight to nine months of age.

    A pup’s nutritional requirements for growth and development are greater than those for an adult dog. If you opt to feed your small dog breed pup a commercially prepared diet try to ensure it is a feed specially formulated for puppies and enables the youngster to get the full range of nutrients he needs.

    Balanced Diet: Small Breed Dog Food

    A small dog breed pup who eats a complete and balanced commercial puppy diet – whether it is a small breed dog food prepared diet or another puppy formulated specialist food – doesn’t need additional supplements. Adding supplements can cause nutritional imbalance as most modern commercial dog foods are prepared to contain all required nutritional elements your small breed puppy will require in this important growth stage. However, if you are supplying your dog with a home-cooked or fresh-diet meal plan, supplements may be necessary. Consult with a veterinary nutritionist to get further advice.

    Dry food can be moistened with warm water to encourage puppies to eat. Milk can be used, too, but only in extremely small amounts. Goats milk for puppies is often favoured by many breeders. Cow’s milk causes digestive upset in some puppies and dogs. A tablespoon of canned food can be added to increase interest, as well. These are general guidelines for feeding your small dog breed pup; consult with your veterinarian for more specific advice. If your pup doesn’t appear to be developing as you believe he should, feeding small breed dog food without first consulting a specialist in the area of dog nutrition would not be advised as your dog may have underlying problems that need to be investigated by a professional expert first.

    Small Breed Dog Food: Adults

    Feeding Adult small dog breeds: The adult small dog breed is a mature dog, usually age one year or older. Healthy adult dogs who are not pregnant, nursing, or hardworking have somewhat low nutritional requirements. Feeding is fairly straightforward if you’re feeding commercially prepared kibble. Buy a complete and balanced diet made for the adult dog and give your dog the recommended amount once or twice a day. Add a tablespoon of canned food for taste if you wish. Adjust the amount according to the small dog breed’s activity level and body condition.

    Feeding Hardworking small dog breeds: Highly active small dog breeds use a lot of energy. The hard-working dog can require two to three time more kilocalories per pound of body weight than what is required for normal activity. To maintain good body condition and keep up his stamina, the hardworking small dog breed must eat a high-energy diet.

    Many veterinarians recommend commercially prepared “performance” diets for highly active dogs. Higher fat, higher-protein diets supply the working dog with needed calories. Because performance diets are higher in protein than maintenance diets, there s a misconception that the active dog just needs extra protein. However, all nutrients are required in greater amounts. Additionally, research indicates that moderately high-protein diets are unlikely to cause kidney damage – in spite of some breeders’ and owners’ beliefs that it does.

    Feeding Your Elderly small dog breed: Older small dog breeds (those who have reached the last 25 percent of their expected life span) are usually less active than adult dogs and pups. Thus, their energy requirements are reduced and they can gain weight easily if fed too much or fed a high-calorie diet. Some veterinarians recommend “senior” diets; foods high in nutrients but reduced in calories to keep senior small dog breeds at a healthy weight.

    Feeding Small Dogs

    How Often Should a Small Dog Breed be Fed?

    There’s no exact answer on how much and how often to feed your small breed because it depends on the size, age, and activity level of each individual small breed. Feeding amount and schedule also depend on which diet you’re using and how cold it is outside. (Dogs who spend a lot of time outdoors in cold temperatures require more food.)

    Begin by following the feeding instructions spelled out on the dog food package. Realize that these instructions are a starting point, and apply to all breeds of a certain weight. Your small breed is an individual and every dog is different.

    Following that, observe your dog’s body condition:

    Is my puppy too thin?

    An overly thin small breed will have visible or easily felt ribs and hip bones may be visible. The waist and belly are obviously tucked up when viewed from the side. Increase food. Speak to your vet to find out if there are any underlying medical conditions causing your dog to be underweight.

    Just Right: The ribs should have just a little fat over them; you should be able to easily feel them with slight pressure. Your small breed should have a waist when viewed from above, and the belly should be tucked up when viewed from the side.

    Is My Dog Overweight?

    Too Fat: If you can’t easily feel your small breed s ribs and can easily see fat covering them, he is too heavy. His waist is absent or barely visible when viewed from above, or his belly may hang. Decrease food.

    How often you feed your small breed depends on how old he is and his (or your) personal preference. Pups must be fed several times a day, usually three..The average adult small breed can be fed once or twice a day, in the morning, evening, or both. Many owners like the idea of feeding twice a day, while others find it inconvenient and opt to feed once a day. Toy puppies have a very rapid metabolism and may require four to six meals a day to avoid hypoglycemia, a life-threatening drop in blood sugar levels. By six months of age, most Toy pups can cut back to three or four meals a day.

    Dogs are creatures of habit, and seem to enjoy eating at the same time every day. Feeding your small breed pup at the same time every day helps establish eating habits and makes housebreaking easier. Pups usually need to urinate or defecate after eating. If you feed him at the same time every day, you can predict when nature calls.

    Note: Free-feeding, leaving food out for the small breed at all times, is not recommended because it can lead to excess weight gain.

    Small Breed Dog Feeding: Conclusion

    Dog owners are fortunate to live in an age where there is an increasing awareness about proper dog nutrition. We understand that there is not a one-size-fits-all approach to feeding dogs. Specialist diets, such as small breed dog food, large breed dog food and dog foods specialist formulated for active/working dogs allow us to match our dog to a nutritional plan that perfectly matches their age, weight, breed and overall lifestyle. If you are considering feeding a dedicated small breed dog food, it makes sense to first understand the basic principles of why your breed would benefit for a tailored feeding plan.

    As with humans, dogs all have varying degrees of dietary requirements. Olympic athletes may require double the volume of calories in comparison to an ‘average’ person even if they are the same age, weight and height. On this basis, feeding a dog on the wrong diet could lead to weight gain, weight loss or even more serious health and behavioural problems. Dedicated diets can be a great benefit to owners who are keen to make sure their dog is receiving the right nutrition to match their breed’s individual requirements. On this basis it would be worthwhile to investigate the options when it comes to selecting small breed dog food that has been specifically formulated to provide the proper nutrition for your dog.

    Small Dog Breed Resources

     

  • Vets Cast Doubt On Natural Dog Food

    Vets Cast Doubt On Natural Dog Food

    While natural food is a rising trend among humans, pet owners should be careful before feeding similar types of food to their pets, according to a Kansas State University veterinarian.

    All too often pet owners assume that because certain foods, such as fruits and vegetables, are healthy for them, they are also healthy for their pets, said Susan Nelson, K-State assistant professor of clinical services.

    “Natural and veggie-based pet foods are based more on market demand from owners, not because they are necessarily better for the pet,” she said.

    Natural pet food isn’t necessarily unhealthy for pets, and there are good brands on the market. But cats and dogs have specific nutritional needs that some of these foods may not provide, Nelson said.

    For instance, a natural dog food may provide antioxidants through fruits and vegetables, but it may be deficient in other nutrients the dog needs. If pet owners opt for natural pet food, it’s important to make sure pets still receive a well-balanced diet, she said.

    Before buying any pet food that is labeled natural, owners should make sure it comes from a reputable company. Nelson said the Association of American Feed Control Officials, or AAFCO, sets guidelines for the production, labeling and distribution of pet food and sets minimum standards for the nutritional adequacy of diets.

    To ensure that food contains the proper nutrients a pet needs, pet owners should only buy pet food that has at least one of the two AAFCO nutritional adequacy statements on its label, Nelson said. The association’s standards determine whether a pet food company’s product is complete and balanced for a specific life stage according to one of two criteria: the diet’s formula meets the minimum nutrient requirements established by the association or the diet has undergone association feeding trials.

    Feeding trials, while not perfect, generally give the best assessment on how well the food performs for a specific life stage, Nelson said. Owners should look closely at the feeding statement on the label, as some foods are intended for intermittent feeding or only for specific life stages, and they could be detrimental to a pet if fed long-term.

    Nelson said it is important to differentiate between terms such as natural, organic and holistic. Organic and holistic currently have no specific definitions for pet foods under the Association of American Feed Control Officials guidelines. Organic is defined by the U.S. Department of Agriculture for human food, but the department has no definition of natural foods for humans.

    The feed control association defines natural products as those that don’t contain any chemically synthesized ingredients except vitamins or minerals. The labels for natural products containing any of these ingredients must state: “Natural with added vitamins, minerals and other trace nutrients.” Consumers should be wary of any pet food company that claims to have organic or holistic food because they don’t exist by the association’s definition, Nelson said.

    Consumers should also pay attention to food ingredients. For instance, cats and dogs should not eat onions or garlic. While flaxseed oil can provide fatty acids for dogs, cats can’t use it for this purpose. Any manufacturer that uses these ingredients should be avoided, Nelson said.

    “Most reputable companies have a veterinary nutritionist on hand,” Nelson said. “These companies also conduct nutritional research and have their own internal quality control in place.”

    Because dry pet food needs preservatives, there is often debate about whether artificial or natural preservatives are better. Studies show that synthetic preservatives seem to work better and aren’t bad for pets at the levels contained in the food. However, market demand is for using vitamins E and C because they are natural preservatives.

    As with any pet diet, pet owners who opt for natural pet food should keep an eye on their pets to make sure the food is not negatively affecting them, Nelson said.

    “Assuming the diet you have chosen meets AAFCO minimum standards of nutritional adequacy, and if your pet looks healthy, has good coat quality, is in good body condition, has good fecal consistency and is able to do its job, the diet is probably adequate for him,” she said.

    http://www.k-state.edu/media/mediaguide/bios/nelsonbio.html

    What Say You?

    Do you agree that natural dog foods are not always the best?
    Or do you subscribe to the theory that feeding dogs a natural diet offers greater health benefits?