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  • Do Dogs Get Jealous?

    Do Dogs Get Jealous?

    According to some new research by scientists, they do. Dogs do get jealous? Really?

    Personally, I don’t believe they do and I’ll explain more about that in a moment. But first let us look at the new research done in the name of science.

    The experiment consisted of taking pairs of dogs and getting them to present a paw for a reward. On giving this “handshake” the dogs received a piece of food.

    One of the dogs was then asked to shake hands, but received no food. The other dog continued to get the food when it was asked to perform the task.

    The dog without the reward quickly stopped doing the task, and showed signs of annoyance or stress when its partner was rewarded.

    To make sure that the experiment was really showing the interaction between the dogs rather than just the frustration of not being rewarded, a similar experiment was conducted where the dogs performed the task without the partner. Here they continued to present the paw for much longer.

    Dr Frederike Range from the department of neurobiology and cognition research at the University of Vienna, says this shows that it was the presence of the rewarded partner which was the greater influence on their behaviour.

    “The only difference is one gets food and the other doesn’t, they are responding to being unequally rewarded.” she said.

    The researchers say this kind of behaviour, where one animal gets frustrated with what is happening with another, has only been observed in primates before.

    Studies with various types of monkeys and chimpanzees show they react not only to seeing their partners receiving rewards when they are not, but also to the type of reward.

    The dog study also looked at whether the type of reward made a difference. Dogs were given either bread or sausage, but seemed to react equally to either. Dr Range says this may be because they have been trained.

    “It’s through the fact they have to work for the reward, this confers it with a higher value,” she said.

    Source Here

    Let’s take a look at this in smaller chunks.

    The dog without the reward quickly stopped doing the task, and showed signs of annoyance or stress when its partner was rewarded.

    Well of course. Surely we wouldn’t expect anything different here? The dog wants the food and it sees the other dog with the food and it gravitates toward the treat. This is quite logical, nothing ground breaking yet.

    To make sure that the experiment was really showing the interaction between the dogs rather than just the frustration of not being rewarded, a similar experiment was conducted where the dogs performed the task without the partner. Here they continued to present the paw for much longer.

    Yes, again this surely to be expected? Here we have a dog with no distraction, no food or other dog in the equation and it makes logical sense that most dogs will perform differently in a situation where no distraction – of any kind – is present. This, again, does not prove jealousy as we understand it.

    Dr Frederike Range from the department of neurobiology and cognition research at the University of Vienna, says this shows that it was the presence of the rewarded partner which was the greater influence on their behaviour.

    Now we’re veering in to some strange territory. Let us imagine this experiment but with some different parameters.

    We work with just one dog, no other dog in the area.

    The dog gives its paw. Then a person will come in to the room and puts some food on the floor near to where the other dog would have been positioned positioned.

    Would the dog now be less interested in giving paw and more interested in food?

    In my opinion, yes. Most likely.

    Now repeat the same scenario but don’t have anyone put food down.

    It’s my supposition that the dog would hold paw for longer.

    No other dog present, no jealousy – merely distraction causing reaction.

    The dog study also looked at whether the type of reward made a difference. Dogs were given either bread or sausage, but seemed to react equally to either. Dr Range says this may be because they have been trained.

    Dogs like different foods. And scientists didn’t know this?

    Take my own dog Mia. She loathes banana. My other dog, Chloe, on the other hand loves fruit. So if I’m eating a banana Mia will sit for a while, realise what I’ve got and then go and lie down. Chloe will stay sitting next to me, watching until I’ve finished. I’m not a scientist but I do know this – it’s……wait for it………

    ……because Chloe likes banana and Mia doesn’t!

    Given that Mia is by far the greedier of my two dogs it proves that dogs clearly have different tastes the same as we do, this is – I would guess – pretty universal. Maybe your dog loves a type of food that my dogs don’t. Maybe your dogs go mad for aniseed whereas my dogs love cheese. Just a sec, wait. Not a good comparison – aniseed and cheese are pretty much universal ‘must eats’ on the canine menu (if your dog likes neither, please let me know – in the name of science).

    So, if I set out to train Mia with bananas as my choice of reward for her, I’d achieve less impressive results – quite simply because Mia doesn’t like banana. She places a higher value on food that she likes, similarly toys and similarly different ways of being touched – Mia doesn’t like to be stroked on the head, Chloe will take a good head stroking for several hours. So we’ve still not established jealousy in canines with this research based on the report as presented on the BBC site.

    Studies with various types of monkeys and chimpanzees show they react not only to seeing their partners receiving rewards when they are not, but also to the type of reward.

    OK. Well I’m not a scientist but I do know that monkeys and chimps are NOT dogs. They can and indeed probably do have emotions much more closely aligned to the emotion we recognise in ourselves as jealousy, similarly they have different social structures and are NOT dogs. So the relevance of this is no more apt than saying: “Well humans have jealousy, why can’t dogs?”

    Why do I not believe dogs share the emotion we recognise in ourselves as jealousy?

    If we think about what jealousy is, if we are logical about what we know about this emotion it is incredibly complex and based on a whole level of social elements.

    There are humans who feel jealousy based on widely different factors – is that an innate personality trait in them or is it nurtured? – we don’t really know.

    We have humans within the autistic spectrum who simply do not and can not feel jealous and others within that same spectrum who can be wildly jealous. It’s true that even scientists themselves still haven’t universally agreed a definition for what jealously is! That’s how complex this particular emotion is. What does it take to be jealous? It takes two people very, very different reasons to be jealous, even people within the same family who share almost identical genetics. Yet put two people in a room and mimic the ‘paw test’ and we’d never get close to seeing universal results proving jealous responses in people – we’re too different and jealousy is an emotion that does not run through us all in an identical fashion. So why should it in dogs?

    I absolutely do not doubt for a single, solitary second that they display behaviour which is very easy for us to compare with the emotion of jealousy that we recognise in ourselves. It could be displayed in acts of resource guarding, it could be manifested by dogs who are particularly greedy, territorial, pack motivated, rank motivated – but jealousy it is not. It is quite possible that I want to get my bosses’ job and sit in his chair, in his office and take home his salary but I am not motivated even in the slightest by jealousy, I simply want to do better for myself. Dogs the same. So a dog going to another dog getting rewarded is absolutely not proof positive – in my view – that we’ve cracked the canine jealousy code, we haven’t even cracked ours yet – and we can SPEAK!

    Anthropomorphism is rife. Most of the time it’s harmless but sometimes it’s nothing more than us finding another way to say: “I don’t understand my dog but I’ll bracket a particular behaviour by benchmarking it against my own”. This is, plainly, crazy. And it can lead to problems.

    It will be better for dogs and better for us if we make an effort to better understand them. But always, always, always start that voyage of discovery with one overriding caveat: Dogs are no more human than we are Zebra. They are dogs. They ARE unique and we love them for it. They are masters at making us think what they want us to think. Their understanding of human body language is an art we’re not even close to mastering. Take this example:

    Person comes home. Dog has wrecked the post (again). There it is, all laid out scattered over the floor.

    Owner opens the door.

    “Huuuuhhh!!!! What have you done???”

    “Oh, look at him. Look at that face. Look how guilty he looks.”

    (wait for it)

    “He know what he’s done!”

    Sound familiar?

    Of course he doesn’t ‘know what he’s done’ and he absolutely may ‘look guilty’ but that aint guilt he’s showing, that’s him spotting body langauage and going to fear/survival mode. He’s pretty much saying: “If you want me to look guilty, if that’s the pigeonhole you want to put me in right now, so long as it means I don’t come to any harm, I’ll do a better guilty repertoire than Laurence Olivier if it makes you happy babe!”

    And makes us happy it most certainly does. We might feel guilt for chewing through our family’s latest edition of K9 Magazine (subscribe now) but that’s because we have an understanding of how our actions will have a future negative effect on the mood of our human counterparts. Our dog, however, he was just bored and he wanted something to do. Then we come home and we’re – clearly – pretty mad at him. He’s not feeling guilty, he’s feeling plain old scared. But it makes us happy to think he thinks like us. To quote the chairman of the Kennel Club: “I don’t need no scientists telling me….” that dogs do not, in fact, think like us. They think, surprisingly, like dogs. That’s what makes em’ great!

  • Dog Food Nutrition

    Dog Food Nutrition

    The process of evolution tells us that dogs developed as carnivores. Wolves are still carnivores and relatively, dogs were still wolves until very recently. So in theory, should not our dogs still be strict carnivores, craving protein and fibre and dreaming of hunks of juicy beef?

    The majority of people still view the dog as a solely carnivorous feeder, but in reality the modern dog is a versatile and healthy eater. The nutritional needs of the dog have changed since his domestication; as a consequence, so have his dietary needs. Most dogs have swapped the baron fields of Europe for the comfort of a basket or bed in a heated house.

    Dog Food Nutrition

    Dogs are less active nowadays too; they do not need to hunt so they need less energy. Most dogs get used to getting fed and acquire tastes of their own. So they tend not to gorge in order to stock up, they can afford to be more picky (this is rare, however; most dogs will still try to stuff themselves, but they no longer need to).

    Dog Food Nutrition: Evolution

    Already we can see three reasons why the canine diet has changed. They no longer need large amounts of fat to stay warm, our houses do that for them; they no longer need huge amounts of energy to hunt with, so their need for protein is diminishing and they no longer need to gorge on a day’s worth of food.

    So is there anything they do need in their diets that they may not be getting? Well, due to the advancements in veterinary care, our dogs are living much longer. In order to do this and benefit from a prolonged lifespan, dogs would benefit from foods rich in omega 3 oils which promote healthy joints.

    Foods such as fatty fish contain high amounts of these essential oils, but surprisingly grass-fed beef is even richer in omega 3.

    Dog Food Nutrition: Sensitivity

    Sensitivity is relative to ones surroundings. To some sensitivity is a matter of interpretation; in fact the French have one word denoting both ‘sensitive’ and ‘sensible’. You can be ‘a bit funny’ after eating dark chocolate or ‘disagree’ with curries, but you can still get away with it if you want. My eyes itch after eating bananas, but it’s bearable, but give someone with an allergy a nut and the situation could turn grave very quickly.

    Dog Food Nutrition: Food Intolerance

    Some dogs can have an intolerance or a reaction to certain food ingredients. By working closely with your vet, you can discover what that ingredient is and then change your dog’s diet accordingly. The intolerance or allergic reaction to a food ingredient is usually part of the protein content in the food and this can manifest itself as itching or in some cases diarrhoea.

    As you are responsible for the well being of your dog and responsible for the managing of his diet, you have to work with the vet in order to discover which ingredient is causing the problem. Finding the cause of the problem means that you can eliminate it from your dog’s diet. Simple isn’t it?

    It’s actually rather more serious than we think as a food allergy can have very severe consequences.

    Dog Food Nutrition: Food Allergies in Dogs

    Let’s start from the beginning and try to work out how we can help our dogs. A food allergy causes only 1% of all skin problems in dogs, that’s what vets’ estimate anyway.

    The majority of other allergic skin problems, such as an allergy to fleabites are much more common. It is hard to find exactly what percentages of gastrointestinal problems like vomiting or diarrhoea are caused by food allergies. Dog owners often change the food that they feed their dog once one type of food is tolerated.

    A dog, which has skin that itches, as well as intestinal problems is more likely to have food allergies.

    There is a mystery surrounding exactly why a food ingredient causes the symptoms of food allergy. Some animal specialists suspect that abnormal amounts, or certain types of protein particles from food, are absorbed into the bloodstream from the digestive tract.

    This releases antibodies and inflammatory chemicals from the cells of the digestive tract and skin, which is a process commonly called “hypersensitivity”.

    The skin and the digestive tract may then become sensitive to food that contains that particular ingredient. The offending item is a ruthless one and a dog that has a sensitive reaction, such as itchy skin, vomiting or diarrhoea may start to suffer from these within minutes, although they can occur up to a few days later.

    It doesn’t help that the offending food ingredient is not necessarily something new in the diet. Your dog can develop allergies to foods that he has been eating for years, and the allergy may come on suddenly. Once an allergy has developed, the sensitivity to the ingredient may last a lifetime.

    It is important that foods containing that ingredient be kept out of your dog’s diet on a permanent basis.

    Useful Dog Food Nutrition Resources

    Dog Food: Nutrition, Dog Food Ingredients & Nutritional Advice

    The Dog Food Project – How does your Dog Food Brand compare?

    Nutrition for your dog, Canine Nutrition, Dog Nutrition

    Dog food

    Dog health

  • Tips for Keeping Your Dog Safe at Christmas

    Tips for Keeping Your Dog Safe at Christmas

    Pine needles, glass decorations, left over food and an abundance of chocolate – this might sound like your average family Christmas but for dogs and their owners it can be an extremely hazardous environment. A survey carried out by Churchill Pet Insurance and dog rehoming website Dogsblog.com has revealed Christmas to be a hazardous time of year for dogs and their owners. With alcohol, bad weather, crowded homes and Christmas decorations contributing most to the problem.

    Almost half of all dog owners admitted over-feeding their dog during the festive season. Normal table scraps, that are fine in moderation, soon mount up over Christmas and Boxing Day and dogs are often the grateful recipients of the overspill, but DogsBlog.com founder Ryan O'Meara warns against giving your dog anything extra from the table.

    (more…)

  • Help to Switch Your Pet’s Food Using Complimentary Sampling Programs

    We all love our pets and want to feed them the healthiest food we can afford to supply them with. Unfortunately, many of those healthier and pricier pet foods aren’t the most palatable for our beloved friends and we find ourselves wasting money bouncing from one expensive pet food to another with no light at the end of the tunnel . I know this from personal experience. There are plenty of finicky eaters in our household and they are all of the four-legged variety. I swear, their favorite foods resembled Cheetos and all of my pets had weight issues, which I attributed to poor diets.

    After many failed experiments of switching to a better , healthier pet food like duck and rabbit dog bites, a friend advised me that there are many websites and blogs where you can get pet food samples and other free stuff online for pets. I had no idea that so many companies offer these complimentary pet food samples, but after learning about it, I can see how it makes perfect sense. It’s very difficult to switch your pet to a new food and quite costly if your pet doesn’t take a liking to it and you wind up throwing out a perfectly good bag of food because your pet abhores it. I’ve been through that enough times. Pet food companies realize your dilemma and offer the freebies samples in the hopes that your pet will like the new food and you can then purchase that same new food without all of the usual fear and trepidation of another wasted bag of expensive food because you already know whether or not your pet approves . The pet food companies often include a great coupon with the sample. All of their coupons generally range from one to several dollars off your next purchase. I’ve even had a few companies put me on their mailing lists and I regularly receive coupons in the mail without having to request them. I have to admit, several companies sent me free products coupon for full size bags. It’s wonderful to get a full size bag for free!

    After many samples and rejections, my pets have settled on some newer, healthier options. Thanks to the sample programs, I didn’t have to spend a fortune to find them healthier food that they also found palatable . If you are considering switching your pet’s food, I highly recommend giving the complimentary pet food samples a shot.

  • Tips For Caring For Dogs With Arthritis

    Tips For Caring For Dogs With Arthritis

    It is not unusual for older dogs to suffer from arthritic symptoms. As dogs, and people, become older, their joints often weaken and arthritis occurs. However, contrary to want most canine lovers believe, arthritis can also be diagnosed in younger dogs and puppies. Arthritis is often a very painful condition that causes much discomfort no matter what age of animal it affects. Thankfully, there are several things that dog owners can do at home to ease some of the pain caused by canine arthritis.

    Control Arthritis by Diet

    One option for helping your dog with arthritis is keeping a close watch on the food that it is fed. Overweight dogs often suffer more greatly than leaner dogs due to the added weight on their joints. Stay away from foods that are high in calories. If the dog is obese, choose a food specially designed for overweight animals. Refrain from giving your dog table foods and reduce the amount of treats that are fed to the pet. Once your dog’s weight is under control, you will likely see a positive change in its activity level.

    Consider also getting some stainless steel raised dog bowls. The easier you make it for your dog to stoop less, the better it will be in cases of arthritis in the neck.

    Give Your Arthritic Dog Better Sleep

    Everyone can benefit from better sleep, even your dog. Lying on hard and cold surfaces often worsens arthritis. In order to ease the pain, consider purchasing an orthopedic bed for your pet. These beds are specifically designed to balance the animal’s weight in order to relieve joints from pressure. During the colder months, allowing your dog to sleep indoors or on a heated bed will also offer a lot of relief.

    Exercise Your Pet

    Healthy joints are a lot less painful. Getting your dog into a regular exercise routine that strengthens muscles and cartilage will lead to healthier joints as well. Playing with your pet or walking on a daily basis will increase the blood flow through the joints. Be cautious about planning activities that are low impact and will not cause stress or additional pain to the animal. Dogs with less severe cases of arthritis can withstand heavier exercise while those with more server cases will need lighter activities.

    Give Your Dog Extra TLC

    In addition to the tasks listed above, all arthritic dogs will appreciate their owner giving them a little extra attention. Simply raising feed dishes off the floor so the animal is not required to bend down as far can be helpful in reducing joint pain. Consider providing steps to areas where your dog once jumped. Allow your pet to use a ramp when getting on the back of trucks or into vehicles.

    Arthritis pain can be very stressful to dogs. Once the condition is diagnosed, pet owners can begin carrying out tasks to help ease the discomfort that their pets feel. In addition to treatments offered by the vet, there are many ways that canine owners can let their pet know that they care. Being conscious about the dog’s diet, sleeping arrangements, and exercise routines are all ways to enhance its quality of life with arthritis.

    http://arthritisdogsreview.com/

  • Treating Dog Arthritis With Natural Supplements

    Dog arthritis is one of the most common diseases that affect canines; especially large breed dogs (60-90 lbs) the best thing you can do is to prevent the occurrence of this disease with the appropriate supplements when your dog is 4 or 5 years old and not wait until symptoms show, but if your dog is already presenting symptoms and/or pain you should consider the option of natural treatment for your pet’s condition.

    Osteoarthritis in dogs (or just dog arthritis) can be treated effectively with natural supplements that are as effective as commonly prescribed drugs and much safer because of the less risk of side effects. Prescribed drugs may relieve pain, but they also can cause further degeneration of your dog’s joints and health, which could include, damage to the liver, kidneys, muscles and gastrointestinal bleeding, among others.

    Just as human arthritis, dog arthritis tends to get worse with age, and you can find some senior dog food formulas that claim to contain glucosamine and chondroitin, both of them are supplements used to prevent and treat dog arthritis, but in the majority of cases, the amount included is not enough to do any difference in your dog’s symptoms. So, probably the best option is to feed your dog regular dog food and back that up with a supplement. Below you will find some of the most effective supplement used for the treatment of arthritis in dogs.

    Herbal Glucosamine Blend, which is one of the most comprehensive canine muscle and joint support formulations available today, it includes Glucosamine HCl, MSM and Vitamins B1, B2, B6 and C, along with a proprietary herbal blend of Yucca, Devil’s Claw, White Willow, Meadowsweet and Alfalfa.

    Glucosamine is essential for the formation of joint cartilage and synovial fluid, MSM, has an anti-inflammatory effect slows the progression of arthritis and relieves pain.

    Alfalfa and Yucca extract, a combination of five time-honored herbs for chronic rheumatic conditions it also includes Burdock, Licorice, and Shepherd’s Purse. This extract is designed to help the body cope with the pain, swelling, and stiffness of arthritis and rheumatism while maintains the tone of the liver and kidneys to help eliminate excess waste materials and water from the joints.

    Ortho-Flex Joint Ease Supplement for dogs this formula is a supplement for muscle, ligament, tendon, cartilage, and bone problems. It does not only to help in the relief of pain, but to also treat the underlying problem. It really helps older animals. This formula contains Chondroitin Sulfate, which is used to help dogs with joint conditions and arthritis.

    The benefits of using natural, organic pet products are in the preventive measure, you want a healthy pet with a longer lifespan, but also an enhanced quality of life, there’s no use on living longer if the quality of life is not good, holistic pet care, will provide a better quality of life for your pet and ultimately will save you money with less visits to the veterinarian, bills and prescriptions.

    Dr. Jeff has a major in Animal Science and Pre-Veterinary and runs the day-to-day operations of her home-based business and website in which you can learn how homeopathic remedies could prolong and improve your pet’s life. She can also help you start your own home-based 100{d4f4ff813a06e2c77cbb9c6effe011ebffe2f8986e44983e90e08c54deb62f63} natural pet supplies business, you can visit online at:

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  • Destructive Chewing In Dogs

    Destructive Chewing In Dogs

    The act of chewing seems to be a matter of individual orientation among dogs: some have an innate desire to chew as a pleasurable activity in itself, and some seem to have no need to chew whatever unless they’re driven to it out of sheer boredom.

    The phrase “destructive chewing” may sound redundant, because – by its very nature! – all chewing is destructive. Your dog has strong jaws full of sharp, pointy teeth: just about anything she starts to chew on is likely going to show the effects of it inside of a minute. So just to clarify, when I use the phrase “destructive chewing”, I’m referring to inappropriate chewing: the kind of chewing that’s focussed on your own possessions and household items, alternatively of on your dog’s own designated toys and chews.

    The three main understandings why dogs chew:

    – Most dogs have a instinctive desire to chew. It’s fun, it passes the time, and it’s a self-rewarding, self-reinforcing activity (for example, if she’s chewing on something that tastes good.)

    – Chewing provides a nervous, bored, or lonely dog with an outlet for her emotions. To an anxious dog, the repetitive act of chewing is soothing – it’s the doggie equivalent of comfort food.

    – Underexercised dogs often use chewing as a way of burning up nervous energy and giving themselves something to do.

    – How to forestall destructive chewing –

    Dogs are perfectly able of learning not to chew your material – you just have to put in a little effort first, that’s all.

    It is aslo possibly that your dog could be suffering from seperation Anxiety  read more here Anxiety Separation Dogs

    1. Take control of the site: manage your own possessions. Your first step should be to dog-proof your home. Even if you have the best-behaved dog in the world, there’s still no reason to test her self-command – after all, dogs explore the world with their mouths.

    Dog-proofing your home means taking whatever you don’t want to end up in her mouth, and making it unavailable. Consider her size and agility when deciding whether something’s out of reach: can she jump? Can she climb, or leap onto something else to reach the desired object? How tall is she when standing on her back legs?

    Common targets in the home include books, eyewear, clothing, shoes, garbage, and small crunchy appliances like cameras, cell phones, and remote controls.

    It should go without saying that all food needs to be put securely away: don’t leave snacks on low tables (or even countertops – you’d be surprised how acrobatic she can be when there’s food at stake!), put all food into containers or the pantry. Rinse your dirty plates clean of any food scraps before leaving them by the sink.

    2. Prevent her from learning the joys of illegal chewing. The more times she manages to bite a jawful of a forbidden substance – a chair-leg, a pillow, a run shoe – the more readily she’ll target those items in future. If you can prevent her from chewing your stuff in the first spot, it’s a lot easier for her to understand what you expect of her. Practically speaking, this means restricting her in a dog-proofed area until you’re confident of her reason? of the house rules.

    3. Don’t set her up for failure by blurring the boundaries between her stuff (OK to chew) and your stuff (not OK to chew). Don’t work your dog cast-off clothes, shoes, or towels to chew and play with: realistically, you can’t perhaps expect her to be able to tell the difference between your current shoes and the one she’s got in her mouth that you gave her five minutes ago.

    4. Provide her with lots of tasty alternatives to your stuff. If her environment is relatively barren of attractive, appropriate chewing objects, you can scarcely blame her for targeting your possessions. Remember, most dogs need to chew; if she’s an adolescent (under three years) or a puppy (under one year), her needs will be even more pronounced. Go on a toy and chew shopping spree, then give her two or three to play with at a time. Rotating the available toys every few days will keep things novel and interesting for her.

    5. Spend lots of time in active supervision. Yes, it might be easier for you to just keep her penned up in her crate, run, or the yard – but that’s boring and horrible for her, and hardly much fun for you either (if you wanted a pet that you don’t need to interact with, you’d have got a goldfish, right?) She can’t learn what you expect of her if she’s spending all her time boxed up in the dog-proof zone: she needs the opportunity to explore the boundaries of your expectations, so she can understand what’s appropriate and what’s not.

    6. When you catch her chewing something inappropriate, interrupt her by making a loud racket: clap your hands or make an “Ah-ah-aaaah!” noise. Then, immediately hand her a tasty and dog-appropriate alternative (a rawhide bone or other chew toy); as soon as her jaws close around it, praise her lavishly. There is no better way to get your dog to understand that chewing “her” toys equals praise from you, but everything else equals fuss.

    – hold a generative attitude –

    Above all, remember to keep your expectations realistic. You’re not perfect, and neither is your dog: there’s likely to be at least one incident where a treasured item is damaged by her curiosity.

    Particularly in the early stages of your relationship, she’s still learning the ropes: it’ll take awhile before she’s completely reliable (and even then, if she’s left by herself for too long or feels neglected, she may choose your stuff over hers to take her time and jaws with.) Remember to give her time to learn the rules, and plenty of ‘you-time’ to help her learn faster – and don’t forget to take precautions and keep things out of reach until she’s got the hang of the chewing rules!

    For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like chewing), check out Anxiety Separation Dogs. It’s the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog’s learning.
    You can visit the Anxiety Separation Dogs site by clicking on the link below:

  • Crate Training Your Dog The Easy Way

    Learn how to tap into your dog’s elementary den instincts, and make her more obedient—naturally.

    Like their ancestors, dogs are born, nurse, and later eat solid foods in a good enclosed area (called a den in the wild), and therefore tend to accept being confined to a crate when necessary. Teaching your dog that her crate is a safe site, and helping her make happy associations with it, can help you and your home survive behavior problems such as housebreaking and adolescent chewing.

    Having said that, a crate should only be used along with proper training, exercise, and socialization. With a few basic guidelines, you can use it as a valuable tool in a variety of situations.

    Crate Expectations

    Whatever the age of your dog, it’s important to present her to the crate gradually. Here’s how to make a good start.

    * Put the crate in an area of your home wherever you or others will be around. You may want to keep the crate in the kitchen during the day and your bedroom at night. To make your dog’s first experiences with the crate as pleasant as imaginable, put a soft blanket or towel (preferable one that smell like you) on the floor of the crate. Then throw a toy and some foods treats inside.

    * Do not use force to make your dog go into the crate. Instead, let her seek and find the goodies. When she enters the cage, praise her, and let   her come and go as she pleases. Play this game for several minutes. If your Boston Terrier takes to this game, close the door for a few seconds after she goes in. Increase the amount of time that the door is closed, but stay close to the crate while you offer praise and treats as this is one way of crate training Boston Terriers effectively.

    * Now that you’ve familiarized her with the crate concept, gradually get her used to being in the cage for longer period of time. Start feeding your dog her meals in the crate with the door closed. Leave the room while your dog is eating and then when she is just resting. When your dog shows no opposition, leave the house: First, go out for only 5 minutes, gradually increase your time away to 30 minutes. If your dog can stay in the crate for half an hour without getting agitated, she should be comfortable for hours.
             
    * Don’t overdo it. Try to use the crate for short times, both when you’re home and when you’re out. You shouldn’t confine your dog for more than 4 hours at a time and for no longer than a sum of 10 hours in any given day. Always give your Boston Terriers a special treat when you crate her. And remember, crated dogs need exercise and playtime too.

  • Everything You Want to Know About Housebreaking Your Dog

    Everything You Want to Know About Housebreaking Your Dog

    Housebreaking your new dog may seem like a daunting prospect, buy it’s usually pretty easy. No matter what age your dog is, the same principles apply: praise, supervision, confinement, and patience. Take your dog to his proper toilet area as often as possible, and praise him; supervise him at all times when he is in the house; and when you can’t supervise, confine him in some way. But above all, be patient.

    Right from the beginning, whether your dog is old enough to control himself or not, the real training needs to begin. Here’s how to do it:

    Rule out any medical problem first. Have him checked out by a veterinarian to make sure he’s fit. A “wormy” puppy with diarrhea can’t be expected to control himself.

    Feed low-residue food. Give him two or three meals daily of a well-balanced, low-residue food (your vet can recommend a brand), rather than leaving the food out all day. Be consistent in his mealtimes to make the times of elimination more predictable. Try to make the last meal no later than 5 PM to help your dog make it through the night. Picking up his water at 8 PM may also be helpful as long as he doesn’t have a medical problem (such as kidney disease) that would make water restriction dangerous.

    Select one area as his toilet. Take your dog to an area of the yard you’ve pre-selected as his toilet zone. Show him where it is (don’t expect him to find it on his own) at the times he is expected to need to eliminate: immediately upon awakening, soon after eating, and at exciting times (after meeting new people, after a car ride, before and after play). When you’re puppy gives you that “uncomfortable” look, take him to the toilet area immediately. A puppy usually needs to be taken tom his area approximately every 2 to 4 hours. An older Boston terrier dog may only need to be taken every 4 to 6 hours.

    Teach a cue word. When you get to the area and your pup begins to search for the right spot, say to him “Hurry up,” “Do your business,” or any other creative phrase. That phrase will soon act as a cue to spend him up.

    Always praise and play afterward-not before. Pay your pup lots of compliments immediately after he eliminates in the right area. Then play with him in another spot outside. If your pet doesn’t do his business in his area after about 5 minutes, bring him back into the house and either tie or confine him for another 5 minutes. Then take him out to the toilet area again. The second time around is usually successful.

    Supervise your dog in the house at all times. Always keep your dog with you. If you’re too busy to watch him, put him in his pen or confined area. Keep him in his pen (with papers when he needs them and without papers when he gets older) or confined area when you are not home.

    Never use punishment after the fact. Even if you’re doing everything in your power to prevent accidents, they do happen. If you catch your puppy in the act, clap your hands to startle him, and say “No!” Take him outside to finish immediately. If he does, praise him for doing a good job. If you find an accident, do not raise your voice, spank your pup, or rub his nose in it. You won’t make him afraid of having accidents, but you will make him afraid of you.

    Learn from hi mistakes. Keep good records of accidents. Use these records to predict when your pup needs to eliminate so that you can alter your schedule to prevent the next one.

    Neutralize the odor. When cleaning up accidents, use products that neutralize urine odor. Avoid products with ammonia, as these may genuinely attract young pets like Boston Terrier puppies to urinate in the same location.

    Be patient and positive. This last tip is the most important. It’s possible to housebreak just about any dog like a Boston Terrier, though it may have to be done at his pace.

  • Coping with Dogs and Separation Anxiety

    Dogs are pack animals. You and your family, and any other pets in the family, are his pack. When everyone leaves for work and school, some dogs get highly upset and may become destructive or aggravate the neighbors with constant barking and whining. What causes this behavior and is there anything that you can do about it?

    My Experience

    Long ago, I had a dog named Pepper. She was part Australian Sheppard, and was a very sweet dog, although she was also really…ahem….active. I had her for 11 years, and for the first 9, she was a great dog. Even as a pup, she never chewed on furniture, shoes, or clothes. Each day, everyone left for work and school, and Pepper caused no problems. After 9 years, she suddenly became very destructive. It started when she got left in the basement one day, and it stormed. Being deathly afraid of storms, she wanted access to her usual hiding place – under a bed. So, she dug her way through the basement/kitchen hollow-core door. I came home to find the poor thing hiding under the bed, along with a big hole in the door.

    But this was merely the beginning. In the next 24 months, Pepper dug through doors, walls, and even the front door. She crashed through windows screens and shredded upholstered furniture. We bought her a sizable crate, and on her first day inside it, she broke the thick plastic floor lining, and her even-thicker plastic water dish, into shards. She also broke both of her upper eye teeth off along the gum line attempting to chew her way out. We took her to the vet to have her teeth fixed, and I asked for a prescription for doggy Valium. The vet told me that, without a doggy psychiatrist’s treatment, doggy Valium only works in about 5{d4f4ff813a06e2c77cbb9c6effe011ebffe2f8986e44983e90e08c54deb62f63} of cases. And in many cases even with a psychiatrist, they just help in about 15{d4f4ff813a06e2c77cbb9c6effe011ebffe2f8986e44983e90e08c54deb62f63} of cases. I have since heard better numbers than that, but at the time, it left us feeling pretty hopeless.

    In the last few months that Pepper lived with us, we moved into a big, brand-new home. In the beginning, she seemed as happy as we were with our new digs. But before long, she started her destructiveness again. She chewed on woodwork, shredded the carpet in several places, and destroyed some window screens. We finally came to the heart-breaking decision that we were going to have to find her a different home, before she totally ruined ours. At 11 years of age, we weren’t sure that anyone would want her. But we did find her a great home, with a lot of room to run, and someone who is home for her the whole day.

    We never could determine what caused Pepper’s sudden separation anxiety. Looking back, I think it may have started about the time we purchased a new box springs and mattress. Up till then, Pepper had always slept on the bed – not at the foot of the bed, but right up there on the pillows. It had gotten to the stage that when I rolled over onto my stomach or side at night, I’d get a mouthful of her shed hair. So when we got the new mattresses, I stopped letting Pepper sleep on it. Maybe being alone all day was ok, so long as she got her cuddle time during the night, and all of the destructiveness was her means of letting me know she didn’t appreciate being exiled from sleeping on the bed.

    I believe Pepper’s case was somewhat unusual, but there are actually steps that can help with more “normal” cases of separation anxiety. Start reading this article about CBD for dogs and then move on to the next few things that can help too:

    Food and Exercise

    Give your dog sufficient exercise. An exercised dog is a happy dog, and is also a tired dog. Plus a full belly is a happy belly. A dog that has been on a nice run and gotten his belly full is more likely to take a nap and sleep much of the day away. Ah, the life of a dog 🙂 And of course, you should also be sure that there’s fresh water and food readily available for your canine friend.

    Sights, Smells, and Sounds

    Leave the television or even a radio on. It can be reassuring to your dog if he can hear human voices. Leave a window open. Dogs like the fresh air plus the outside smells, plus they are able to see and hear people and other animals that are outside. You might have to leave it open only a crack, though, depending on your dog’s behavior. Pepper would go right through a screen that was open wide enough.

    Something to Do

    Leave your dog some favorite toys. It will give him something to do. Toys that both you and your dog have played with, and therefore have your smell on, can reassure. Ropes, nylon bones (not real ones, they could splinter and cause all kinds of problems or worse), squeaky toys, and balls are all good. The dog I have now goes out in the front yard on a 20-foot lead. I’ve seen him play with the lead, as though it were a live person or animal, when there was nothing else to do.

    Answering Machines and Web Cams

    Set your answering machine to screen calls, so the caller’s voice can be heard, and call your dog once or twice during the day and let him hear your voice. If at all possible, set up a web cam at home and at work so that you can look in on your pup and see what he is up to. If he’s misbehaving, call the answering machine and reprimand him. If he appears to be getting anxious, call and speak to him in a soothing voice.

    Put Your Dog in a Crate

    Although it didn’t work with Pepper, it may work for you. It might sound mean to confine your dog to this type of small space each day, but it can actually be reassuring to him. A dog often comes to think of his crate as his own familiar “bedroom”. One Fourth of July, when my current dog, Bo, was just a pup, he ventured outside and heard a huge firecracker boom. He ran back inside, cowering. He came out again, and it happened again. His third time out, several loud fireworks went off at once, and Bo ran back inside, down the steps, into his crate, and curled up and hid in there. It was his safe place to go. Crating works best if your dog is used to it, or is raised from a pup using a crate.

    Stay Calm

    When you leave, and when you initially get home, stay calm. Your dog will detect your vibes, and if you become nervous because he is likely to be nervous or upset, your dog will detect it. Make coming and going no big deal.

    Interval Training

    Leave the house for just a couple of seconds, then come back in. Go out again, and wait a few minutes and then come back in. Vary the amounts of time that you are gone. Get your dog used to being separated for small amounts of time, and gradually increase the time. Go in or out different doors. Take your keys with you one time, but not another. Go when your dog is looking, and when he isn’t. And stay calm. Eventually, your dog is not going to know if you will leave for a long or short time. But he will begin to realize that you always return.

    I’m hoping these tips will help you and your best friend to live in harmony. Love My Dog Blog would love to hear any stories you have about your dog and separation anxiety, or any stories about your dog. You can also visit Love My Dog Blog for information and facts, tips, and human dog interest stories.

  • Cataracts in Dogs: What You Need to Know

    Canine Cataracts: A Total Dog Care Sheet

    Owners of older dogs often notice begin to notice a bluish white film start to develop over the eyes of their dog. As dogs age, eye problems – particularly cataracts – are more common. The condition is a thickening of the lenses, which is a function of age. It can become present in dogs of any age but normally happens as the dog enters their senior years and it tends to progress slowly. (more…)

  • Are You Feeding Your Dog Too Many Carbs?

    There is a significant difference between humans and dogs in their need for carbohydrates and in their ability to digest them. The digestive tract of a human is longer than that of a dog, and the formation of jaws and teeth is entirely different. A dog’s digestion starts in the stomach. Dogs’ teeth – all 42 of them – are built to tear flesh apart. Dogs gulp their food as fast as they can, which then reaches the stomach with no digestion having taken place.

    Human digestion starts in the mouth. A human chews food with 32 teeth, which have flat surfaces for grinding and breaking down food. Enzymes contained in the saliva contribute to this breakdown of the food, which is being digested before it reaches the stomach.

    Terrance Eating
    Creative Commons License photo credit: deovolenti

    Carbohydrates come in two forms, simple and complex. Simple carbohydrates come from grains such as wheat, corn, rice, oats, soy and millet.

    They break down into starches and sugar when properly cooked. Complex carbohydrates come in the form of various fibres such as brans, hulls and peanut shells from the outside of plants. A small amount is needed for proper digestion and stool formation. Nutrients are obtained from both sources, but most come from simple carbohydrates.

    If carbohydrates are a major part of your dog’s diet, the time and energy needed for digestion increase, the dog performs less well, large amounts of stool are produced, and a protein deficiency disease may develop. Dogs have evolved as meat eaters and although they need some grains, their health and longevity will be better served on a diet containing more animal protein than protein from grains.

    Think about the origin of the dog.

    It is unrecorded in history that wolves lit fires and cooked grains picked in fields! But there were whole carcasses available that contained everything needed for wolves to survive, including predigested vegetable matter in the intestinal tracts of their prey.

    The reason the majority of dry dog foods contain such large amounts of cereal grains is that grains are a cheap source of nutrients. According to the NRC guidelines, “Carbohydrates provide an economical source of energy in the diet of dogs.”

    In some cases, some dogs don’t want to eat because of their environment. One of my dogs for example, eats less if he has to stoop for the bowl – a raised dog bowl solved his problem. In other cases, your dog might just know best and by refusing to eat he’s doing all he can to tell you this.

    Allergic reactions to grains are common in dogs. The best diet for your dog matches that fed in the breed’s country of origin as the breed developed. Each dog is an individual, and if yours refuses to eat his food, check the grains listed on the package. It could be your dog is allergic to one of the grains in their food which is why they don’t want to eat.

  • UK Lawmakers To Debate Welfare Issues Surrounding Greyhound Racing

    On Monday 28 March, MPs will debate e-petition 554073, relating to greyhound racing. Christina Rees MP, a member of the Petitions Committee, has been asked by the Committee to open the debate. Jo Churchill MP, a Minister from the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs will respond.

    ‘Ban greyhound racing to end unnecessary deaths & suffering of racing dogs’

    The petition, which has more than 104,000 signatures, states: “The Government must introduce legislation to abolish greyhound racing, via managed shutdown of activities, and ensure welfare of redundant dogs through a levy on the industry. In 2019 Greyhound Board of Great Britain (GBGB) data confirmed 4970 injuries & 710 deaths (14 per week).”

    In its response to the petition, provided on 26 November 2020, the Government said: “Defra supports high welfare for racing greyhounds, considers that welfare concerns are being addressed in many ways, and believes a ban is unnecessary.”

    The debate will last up to 90 minutes, and will provide opportunities for MPs to question the Government directly on this issue. The debate will take place in Westminster Hall from 16:30, and will be available to view on Parliament TV and on YouTube.

    Petition details

    • ‘Ban greyhound racing to end unnecessary deaths & suffering of racing dogs’- view on petition signature map.
    • Any Library Briefing Papers for this debate will be available here.

    Follow the debate

     

    Where in the country were these petitions signed?

    The top 10 parliamentary constituencies that supported the ‘Ban greyhound racing to end unnecessary deaths & suffering of racing dogs’ are as follows:

    Constituency

    MP

    Signature Count

     

    Isle of Wight

    Bob Seely MP

    316

    Central Devon

    Rt Hon Mel Stride MP

    314

    Brighton, Kemptown

    Lloyd Russell-Moyle MP

    311

    Brighton, Pavilion

    Caroline Lucas MP

    308

    Torridge and West Devon

    Rt Hon Sir Geoffrey Cox QC MP

    296

    Tiverton and Honiton

    Neil Parish MP

    294

    Hastings and Rye

    Sally-Ann Hart MP

    293

    Camborne and Redruth

    Rt Hon George Eustice MP

    282

    Edinburgh North and Leith

    Deidre Brock MP

    282

    Somerton and Frome

    David Warburton MP

    280

     

  • Could The UK FINALLY Be Set To Abolish Breed Specific Legislation?

    Could The UK FINALLY Be Set To Abolish Breed Specific Legislation?

    The RSPCA has today welcomed an inquiry by the Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (EFRA) Committee into the current legislation on dangerous dogs.

    The announcement comes almost two years after the RSPCA – the country’s largest and oldest animal welfare charity – launched its high-profile #EndBSL campaign, calling on the UK Government to review Section 1 of the Dangerous Dogs Act (DDA) 1991 which, under Breed Specific Legislation (BSL), prohibits the ownership of four types of dogs: pitbull terrier, fila Brasiliero, dogo Argentino, Japanese tosa.

    Today, EFRA has launched an inquiry into this legislation following considerable debate about the effectiveness of banning dogs based on their breed or type.

    https://i.imgur.com/NYuSvnr.png

    RSPCA dog welfare expert and lead author of the charity’s report – Breed Specific Legislation: A Dog’s Dinner – Dr Samantha Gaines welcomed the move: “We are really pleased that Parliament has listened to the concerns raised by us and dozens of other animal welfare charities and organisations, not only here in the UK but also around the world.

    “Launching this inquiry is an important step towards the ultimate goal of our #EndBSL campaign – to repeal Section 1 of the law and replace it with legislation that not only better protects dog welfare in this country, but also effectively protects public safety.

    “Since this legislation was brought in almost 27 years ago, hospital admissions in England due to dog bites have continued to increase showing that the targeting of certain types of dogs simply isn’t working.

    “Not only is the legislation failing to protectthe public, but it is also failing dogs. Thousands of dogs have been kennelled unnecessarily and huge numbers put to sleep over the years simply for looking a certain way and that’s a serious welfare and ethical issue.”

    Data collected by the RSPCA has shown that of 37 people who have died in the UK in dog-related incidents since 1991, 28 involved breeds/types not prohibited by law*.

    “There is no scientific basis to BSL,” Dr Gaines added. “There’s no robust scientific evidence to suggest the types that are banned pose a heightened risk to the public compared to other types and no research that shows dogs traditionally selected for fighting are inherently aggressive or that their bite style could cause more serious damage than another dog.

    “The simple fact here is that the way a dog looks is not a predictor of whether he or she is a risk or is likely to be aggressive. Aggression is a much more complex behaviour than that and any dog, regardless of its breed or type, has the potential to be dangerous if they are not properly bred, reared or given the right experiences in life.”

    More than 67,000 people have signed the RSPCA’s #EndBSL petition – calling for the launch of an inquiry – and organisations around the world have stood side-by-side with the charity.

    “The Dangerous Dogs Act was brought into force in 1991 following a number of high-profile dog attacks but, since it’s launch, has proven to be ineffective at protecting public safety and unjust for thousands of dogs who have lost their lives just for looking a certain way,” RSPCA public affairs manager, David Bowles, said.

    “Our campaign has had support from organisations around the world and, in many countries, there is now a trend to repeal BSL with a focus on encouraging responsible dog ownership and improving education around dog safety.

    “The RSPCA has long been calling for a legislative framework that uses effective laws and enforcement to tackle dog-related issues regardless of the dog’s breed or type; encourages responsible dog ownership; ensures better education, particularly targeted at children, who are most vulnerable to dog bites; and gains a better understand of why dogs bite so steps can be taken to address the reasons and reduce risk.”

    The RSPCA will now be working on a submission for the Committee’s consultation and will continue to work tirelessly to bring about a change in the law.

  • Why is Breed Specific Legislation Wrong?

    Why is Breed Specific Legislation Wrong?

    Dog experts from two of the country’s leading animal welfare charities highlighted to members of the London Assembly public safety and dog welfare concerns around part of the current dangerous dogs legislation.

    Battersea Dogs & Cats Home and the RSPCA briefed members of the Assembly at City Hall on Thursday (14 September) to highlight the flaws in Breed Specific Legislation, the 26-year-old legislation which prohibits owning four types of dog in the UK.

    The RSPCA launched its #EndBSL campaign in August 2016 – to mark the 25th anniversary of Section 1 of the Dangerous Dogs Act – calling for an urgent parliamentary inquiry into Breed Specific Legislation.


    Two happy, well-adjusted family dogs. In the UK, one of these dogs would be illegal.

    Dr Samantha Gaines – dog welfare expert and lead author of the RSPCA’s ‘A Dog’s Dinner’ report – told London Assembly members that the law was not working, why it is ineffective at protecting public safety and how it seriously compromises dog welfare.

    “In the 26 years since BSL was introduced hospital admissions for dog bites have increased and prohibited types of dogs continue to be seized from our streets,” Dr Gaines, pictured, explained.

    “Public safety is not protected by targeting certain types of dogs. The welfare of thousands of dogs has been affected by this law and countless dogs have been euthanased because of how they look.”

    “The opportunity to brief members of the London Assembly means that they have the evidence they need to see that this law is completely ineffective at safeguarding the public, and are armed with the information as to how it unfairly affects dogs.

    “We are hoping that with this knowledge they can influence change which will positively impact on the lives of thousands of family pets.”

    https://i.imgur.com/g3Hcq0C.jpg

    Trevor Cooper, dog law expert, representing Battersea Dogs & Cats Home, and also pictured, said “This part of the Dangerous Dogs Act 1991 isn’t fit for purpose. The intention of Breed Specific Legislation was to weed out potentially dangerous dogs before they have a chance to be dangerous. Yet the impact has been to condemn many innocent dogs for no reason at all other than looking the wrong shape. The legislation was relaxed in 1997 and amended further in 2015 but it remains an unfair law that particularly affects rescues as they are unable to re-home certain types of dog even if they pose no danger to anyone.”

    In December, the RSPCA welcomed a motion unanimously agreed by members of the London Assembly to request a formal review into the Dangerous Dogs Act 1991.

    The London Assembly agreed a motion calling on the Mayor of London to write to the Secretary of State for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs to request a formal review of the act, brought in 25 years ago. However, the Mayor is yet to support it.

    Now, the RSPCA is hoping that the Assembly will again approach the Mayor to support it to improve welfare for London and the UK’s dogs.

    The charity – the oldest and largest animal welfare organisation in the country – has taken a stand against the part of the Act which prohibits owning four types of dog – pit bull terrier, Japanese tosa, dogo Argentino and fila Brasileiro.

    David Bowles, assistant director of external affairs at the RSPCA, said: “This legislation is outdated and flawed and urgently needs reviewing, repealing and replacing with something which ensures the public can be protected from dangerous dogs while also protecting innocent dogs from being punished simply for looking a certain way.

    “Currently, breed specific legislation means that a well-adjusted, well-behaved, much-loved family pet which has never shown any signs of aggression can be torn from his home and everything he knows and could face being put to sleep simply for looking a certain way.

    “The RSPCA is calling on the Government to launch a public inquiry into breed specific legislation. Ultimately, we’d like to see this part of the Dangerous Dogs Act repealed and replaced with legislation which deals with dogs on an individual case-by-case basis and does not penalise dogs simply for the way the look.”

    Almost 85,000 people have signed the RSPCA’s petition and the campaign has gained the support of organisations and charities both nationally and internationally, as well as being backed by world-renowned actor and pit bull terrier lover Sir Patrick Stewart.

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