Hollyoaks dog lovers talk to K9 Magazine…
Alex Fletcher
[leadplayer_vid id=”50183281B3004″]Stephanie Davis
[leadplayer_vid id=”501832E216ACE”]Hollyoaks dog lovers talk to K9 Magazine…
Alex Fletcher
[leadplayer_vid id=”50183281B3004″]Stephanie Davis
[leadplayer_vid id=”501832E216ACE”]Puppy house training is one of the more common challenges faced by new dog owners.
In fact, it’s probably the first thing any new dog owner seeks to accomplish. Let us help…
[leadplayer_vid id=”5017D7785C9F5″]It’s often said that pet owners see their pets as members of the family, treasured as much as any children and thought of as much as any family member. The pets of yesteryear provided certain functions as companions, such as sourcing food, whereas today, we ask nothing more than they be there as a companion in the home to comfort us, keep us secure, watch TV with us, make us laugh and simply be a part of the family. But how do we react when we think they may be falling ill?

Job security may be an issue we’re all too aware of these days but a recent survey carried out by Direct Line Pet Insurance and K9 Magazine uncovered that over 81% of Britain’s dog owners would risk their jobs by calling in sick if they were worried their pet was falling ill but only 6% would tell their boss the real reason for their absence. A massive 94% of those surveyed felt more comfortable saying they were unwell themselves.
The same pet lovers compared this to themselves where only 69% said they would call in sick if they themselves were feeling under the weather.
Adam Whiteley, Head of Direct Line Pet Insurance, said: “Most people consider their pet to be part of the family, so it’s no surprise that they would take a day off work to care for Fido or Fluffy, just as they would for a child. It’s a well-known fact that pets improve the quality of life for their owners, and employees who know their pet is happy and healthy won’t spend time worrying while they are at work.”
So what could be done to help prevent as many sick days being taken? Could Britain’s employers take steps to becoming more pet friendly?
Ryan O’Meara, publisher of K9 Magazine believes more can be done to follow in the footsteps of employers such as Google, known for their pet friendly policy.
He says, “The benefits of a pet friendly office are known to those who have had the benefit to take advantage of them. Well behaved dogs are always welcome at our office, we even have a ‘dog rota’ so it can be planned in advance. A pet friendly policy can be great at bringing a new vibe to the office and can act as a great stress reliever. A short sharp burst of fresh air from a quick walk can also be great for freshening the mind.”

(Chloe and Jackson, pictured above, K9 Magazine’s original office dogs)
Top Tips for a Pet Friendly Office
1) Always have treats handy. Some people may not be used to being around dogs all the time, this obviously needs careful handling and introduction to make sure everyone is as comfortable as possible.
2) Take your pet for a short walk every few hours to give them some fresh air and a burst of exercise.
3) Before introducing a full pet friendly policy, have a trial. Create a rota and have a plan in place for the trial so it can be assessed how it can work for you long-term.

Dog bites are, in the main, avoidable and a better understanding of dog body language can help us get somewhere near to understanding the reasons and motivations for dog bites and serious dog attacks.

Before we begin though, let’s ask – and try to answer – the question of whether dog bites are a breed specific problem.
Across dog walking hot spots you will find a mixture of breeds, shapes, and sizes, often allowed to roam around off their leads in the open spaces.
It can be very intimidating when a big, strong, dog approaches you and after a rise in the number of attacks by the popular pet, many people are calling for new measures to make sure that dogs are kept on leads. But are dogs being given a bad reputation unfairly?
I myself am terrified if a large dog comes up to me as I walk my Collie cross on open fields near my home. However this never used to be the case.
Around four years ago my family bought home a young male Weimaraner from the local dog’s home. At first everything was fine but after a few weeks things turned nasty. He went on to bite three members of the family, including me, meaning that we sadly had to send him back to the dog’s home.
It was especially heartbreaking, as 99% of the time he was a normal, loving dog. Something seemed to snap in his mind, he’d have five minutes of savageness then return to being nice and look up at you with his soppy sad eyes. In my opinion this could only be put down to how he was brought up. The same as if a human was treated badly it could have effects later on in their lives and on their mental state.
Despite how much I loved him and felt sorry for him it is the reason why I would never be able to trust a big, strong dog again. Just in case. I still hold the scars from his attack, and know that to have a dog’s jaw clenched around you is one of the most terrifying things that I have ever experienced.
The argument for keeping dog’s on a lead is simple. A dog can turn nasty at any time, and recent reports of family pets turning on children is a clear example of this. When I am out walking my dog not only am I in fear for myself but also for my dog, as she is small, not big built, and would not stand a chance if attacked by a big dog, an increasingly likely event in today’s society in which many dogs are bread to attack.
One breed in particular that has developed a bad reputation is the Staffordshire Bull Terrier. At all the local dogs homes inside almost every kennel is a dog of this breed or a Staffordshire Bull Terrier cross, with the amount of Rottweilers not far behind.
Voluntary group and registered charity, Animal Lifeline, based in Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire has saved over 10,000 dogs since it was founded over thirty years ago. The group never puts a dog down and always has at least 100 dogs in its kennels waiting to be re-homed.
Nick Fletcher from the centre explains why he thinks so many of these breeds get brought in: “We get all types of dogs in though there is a higher proportion of Staffies than there used to be. This is because the Staffy has become a fashion accessory for many young people, mainly young men. They then find that either the dog isn’t as fierce as they thought, and want to get rid of it, or their circumstances change, particularly if they have a partner. Young couples often have a dog until they have a baby, then they want to dump the dog. Also, many couples split up after a while and return to parents or go into rented accommodation, where they cannot keep a dog.”
It seems that like with a lot of things in today’s world looks are more important than the dog’s behaviour.
Nick added: “People often select a dog because of its looks, so smaller prettier dogs are always the first to be homed. Lovely dogs with nice temperaments are often ignored and remain in kennels for months just because they are plain in appearance.”
It can be easily seen why these people think they look tough with one of these dogs when they are basically being used as a weapon. Some dogs go on to be re-homed and make loving family pets but others will never find a home ever again because of their vicious mentality from their upbringing.
Despite their bad reputation, created through the media, Staffordshire Bull Terriers are in fact known as a trustworthy animal and sometimes referred to as the ‘Nanny Dog’ for their great affection towards children. Owners of so called ‘status dogs’ believe the facts and figures used in today’s news stories about dog attacks are unfair as the majority of attacks by smaller breeds go unreported.
Daniel Berrisford, from Stoke-on-Trent, has owned two Staffordshire Bull Terriers and agrees that the negative press towards the breed is unfair.
“I think the Staffordshire Bull Terrier is the same as any other dog; it all depends on how you bring them up as to how they turn out. If you bring a Staffy up to fight then they have the mentality to fight, however if you bring a Staffy up as a loving house dog that is what they will become. Both of the Staffies that I have had would not hurt anyone and I believe it is because they were brought up like that. I think that if you bring them up in the right way you will not find a more loyal and loving dog.
“Some owners only have a Staffy or other strong dogs because they want to bring it up to fight and attack but I think that you could find any breed that has attacked somebody, so for a Staffy to have a particularly bad reputation is ridiculous.
“Little dogs often come up to larger dogs and go to attack them, even if they are on a lead but because the bigger dog retaliates and can do more damage they get the blame. Smaller dogs should be kept on a lead just the same because they can cause just as much trouble.”
The truth is that no dog should be branded a vicious breed when the victims of most attacks do not recognise the exact breed so stick to what they know, and certain dogs get the blame, the reason why there are no real statistics for dog attacks in this country.
It is also difficult to distinguish what actually is an ‘attack’. A recent incident in my area occurred in which the police were involved as a dog had knocked somebody over and ripped a coat. A total accident in which the dog was playing, but accused of a vicious attack just for being a big animal.
The truth is that however much the media tries to scare people about our favourite furry friends, the increase in ‘attacks’ has not risen that much and that dog attacks and collisions involving children have actually declined by approximately 18% over the last 10 years.
With a UK dog population of around eight million, it is an issue that cannot be ignored. Measures need to be brought in to deal with the irresponsible owners who are giving all dogs a bad name, and to protect the public from them so that we can feel safe around the nation’s most popular pet again.
K9 Magazine editor Ryan O’Meara outlines his thesis for our misunderstanding of canine behaviour, body language and intentions as a primary motivating factor in our failure to spot the warning signs of dog aggression.
In this report, you will learn about:
Understanding errors of interpretation
Understanding motives for aggressive behaviour
Understanding how to minimise risk
Summary:
Misinterpretation of canine signals, body language and emotions due to anthropomorphic tendencies.
Why do humans feel the need to attribute human qualities to animals in order to better understand or accept them?
What emotions do dogs have? What we happen to presume about what dogs think is, by definition, open to interpretation and in reality unless dogs learn to talk we shall never actually know what dogs think, although we can, will and should speculate. Dogs dream, we therefore conclude they have ‘imagination’ what they dream about, we do not know. As much as we may not like to admit it, we understand dogs a lot less than we realise.
Can dogs have a social conscience? If not they can’t possibly understand or display emotions such as guilt, shame, jealousy etc – all of which are traits often attributed to dogs in an increasingly anthropomorphic society which is conditioned to believe everything from gloved Disney mice to the socially conscious tales of Lassie. It’s little wonder we grew up with such a distorted view of animal emotions, motives and drives.
It is my finding, having studied many dogs of different breeds in different environments that, whilst dogs are exceptionally responsive to our own emotions and body language, their own emotional spectrum is significantly different. This can be best addressed by asking the simple question; Does my dog really love me?
Considering how complex it is for us to understand such a powerful and misunderstood concept in humans, who have the power of speech and the written word to explain themselves, it is surprising how many of us assume that our dogs love us, love being with us and show loyalty to us for reasons equitable to those of a fellow human.
The most probable answer is dogs do not ‘love us’ in the sense that we love them. They are hard-wired to appease us, to fit in with us and to display behaviours which suit us and our needs – it is the fact that we love them for this which often mistranslates as them performing these behaviours because they love us back.
It is my view that canine emotions are expressed in basic forms. They may display many variations of these basic emotions. A dog can be fearful – and this can often be misinterpreted as guilt or shame. A dog may be fearful of losing rank, status or a tried and tested route to food – and this can often me misinterpreted as jealousy or envy of other dogs or people – it is still a demonstration of a variant of basic fear behaviour.
It is us who attribute our social values and emotional structure to dogs in order to try and make them easier to understand. It is the dog’s unique ability to allow us to believe this that has to be part responsible for their successful relationship with man. The dog will be, whatever we want him to be. This is an error in translation.
After all, if we were truly looking for a companion animal whose emotions were closely linked to our own, surely we would have domesticated the apes and we would now be talking about man’s best friend as a small, domesticated monkey. After all they have many of the same skills that dogs have, they are superior in intelligence, dexterity and trainability.
Could it be that the reason dogs have slotted their paws so firmly under the table of man is because we can attribute any emotion they display as we please? If we say it, we can believe it to be true – with a dog – but with an ape, perhaps it is the fact that they ARE so much like us that it is harder for us to enjoy such a mutually fulfilling relationship with them?
The dog, for want of a better description, will be anything we want him to be. They will play the role of court jester or funeral mourner, if they think it’s what we want. Perhaps it is this for reason alone that they have become the most successful socially domesticated animals on the planet. It is also possibly the reason why the more we think we know about them, the more we are kidding ourselves.
The dog is, in my opinion, a still largely misunderstood animal. We control their environment, their diet, their stimulation, their entire lives – it’s little wonder they feel compelled to ‘love’ us.
The perception problem: Dogs see our world from a different perspective. We can look at the same object or experience the same situations but our and their perception of both can be entirely different. There are various reasons for this. To understand what it is to see the world through the eyes of a dog we need to first accept the physical differences.
They spend their lives between putting their nose to the ground and their eyes gazing upwards. For a dog, life is not conducted at eye level (like us) it is a story happening underfoot and events happen from way on high above. This very fact alone gives us a sense of different the world appears to a dog.
We fail to acknowledge such a fundamental difference in perspective at our own peril. Understanding and accepting this literal matter of fact helps us to try and see things from the dog’s perspective. In the world of the dog, people are most often regarded as friends or are observed as neutral, non threatening animals. However, not all dogs share this view of all people and it is an extremely serious error for any person to assume it.
Genetics / breeding
Social development in key life-stages
Environmental factors
Behavioural conditioning / reinforcement
Perspective problems / misjudging situations
Misdirection of drives
A dog’s genetic make-up and breeding is a factor too often overlooked in instances where the less ‘extreme’ purpose bred dogs are concerned. A relative novice is inclined toward understanding that a Siberian Husky will not make an ideal pet for an owner who leads a largely urban lifestyle with little or no opportunity to provide regular opportunities for mental and physical stimulation.
However where the edges begin to blur are with breeds (or cross breeds where breeding is unknown) which can often present an image which entices novice owners toward them without properly understanding the very specific lifestyle requirements the dog is likely to demand.
It is the case in my experience that there are many dogs produced by people who do not have sufficient skills, experience or desire to fully comprehend the importance of identifying the suitability of the people they are supplying dogs to. Similarly, many dogs are bred with little or no attention paid to the quality of temperament within their breeding stock. Hence there is a perpetual problem – in select numbers – where unsuitable breeders supply unsuitable dogs to unsuitable new owners. Addressing this issue within the structure of existing UK legislation is not possible.
Coming back to the central theme of under-prepared dog owners, failure to place significant emphasis or attention on the key life-stage development of dogs is a monumental failing.
Aged between 6 and 16 weeks (extremely important)
Aged between 16 weeks and 6 months (important)
Aged between 6 months and 14 months (VITAL!)
The average day of the average dog is spent waiting for stimulation or events which can break up the monotony of the dog’s normal routine. In some dogs, attempts to stimulate themselves or indeed relieve boredom can manifest in displays of destruction or even aggression. An owner’s failure to properly recognise the signs of problem behaviour, especially displays of aggression – even as a puppy – can encourage the dog to condition itself to responding to certain environmental events with aggression. Small, relatively unimportant events can spark an extreme response in a dog where inappropriate behaviour is left unchecked.
Example Scenario:
A young dog – for the purpose of this example we shall say a West Highland Terrier – develops a habit of getting excited at 4.00pm each week day when the school children walk by on their way home.
His initial response is curiosity as a result of what he sees an exciting visual stimulus in his otherwise relatively stimulation-free day. On some occasions the children notice the attention the dog is giving them and they tease him. His response is to bark and jump up at the front door.
Over time this conditioned behaviour worsens. Each day he starts to bark, jump and claw at the door as soon as he sees any children in school uniform walking past. His owner’s response to this behaviour is to shout at him as and when he starts barking and jumping up at the door. His owner doesn’t re-direct the behaviour or address it in any other way other than to occasionally shout. Eventually the inevitable happens and the dog manages to escape through the front door when a visitor is leaving the house. He runs out in to the street and bites the first school child he reaches. His owner insists he has never done anything like this before (failing to recognise he had never had the chance before).
This scenario above is a simple example of how behaviour left unchecked can result in an actual attack. The dog has displayed a clear misdirection of an intense prey drive which was initially piqued as a result of an unstimulated lifestyle and escalated as a result of both the uncontrollable element of the children who teased him but exacerbated by his owner’s shouting in response to his barking, which the dog reads as either a reward for his behaviour or sees it as his owner ‘joining in’ with his behaviour.
The problem is confounded as the dog’s owner has failed to grasp the dog’s perspective of what is happening at 4.00pm each day – whilst his owner sees the behaviour as the dog just letting off some steam for 5 minutes per day, the dog’s perspective of the situation is far more serious – he is seeing the school children is prey items which should be pursued vigorously. The dog’s owner has not recognised the ‘value’ placed on the school children by the dog.
The example scenario shows a failure to provide the dog with sufficient daily stimulation, a fundamental misinterpretation of the dog’s emotions (believing him to be ‘letting off steam’), a perspective problem (not recognising how the dog is viewing the school children) and a failure to re-direct a very prominent prey drive behaviour, resulting in a completely avoidable dog attack.
Aggressive behaviour should always, without any exception, be referred to professionals starting with an assessment by a veterinarian to check that there is no medical issue causing the dog’s behaviour.
The key to educating the public about aggressive behaviours in dogs is to impress on dog owners the need for the following:
Initially be aware of how to identify a responsible, high quality dog breeder or rescue shelter
Learn to understand canine emotions and body language. Avoid anthropomorphic errors.
Be aware of the importance of critical key-life stages in the dog’s development
Understand and implement bite inhibition techniques early and maintain them
Provide sufficient stimulation and recognise the role environmental conditioning plays
Understand canine drives and redirect undesirable behaviour as soon as it manifests
In simple terms:
Learn to understand the dog, don’t assume. Provide exercise and stimulation appropriate to the breed and the dog’s individual personality. Learn to recognise misdirected drive. In even simpler terms: dog bites and dog aggression are not breed specific, they are dog (and owner) specific. Dogs are the product of their genetics, upbringing and environment. Irresponsible supply of dogs is a major contributory factor as is the continuing failure to properly understand how dogs think, why they behave as they do and, more crucially, a failure to spot early warning signs of aggression or, more unforgivably, a failure to take appropriate action as and when a dog does show signs of aggression. Risk assessment is often poor in cases of serious dog attacks on children. Owners often misplace trust in their pets when they have no good reason to, particularly if a dog has never been exposed to certain scenarios in the past (e.g. young children visiting the home of a dog who is not used to them).
Dog bites and dog attacks can be largely avoided. Breed bans have been a monumental failure to address the problem of serious and fatal attacks and serve as an ongoing reminder that it’s not just dog owners who misunderstand the primary causes of dog bites, legislators are as guilty of this and that, quite frankly, is unacceptable. If we really want to understand and reduce dog bites, we have to do more to better understand our dogs, properly train them and put ourselves in a position to understand and mitigate risk factors.
© Ryan O’Meara. All rights reserved.
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Dog toys have taken on a life of their own. The market for dog toys gets bigger and broader each year as modern dog owners look for the latest, greatest, best dog toy that is going to make their dog smarter, entertain them longer or simply draw a smile. US-based BestFriends General Store has been selling dog toys online since 2002 and they have put together their list of their biggest and best dog toys of the year.First on the list are Egg Babies Replacement Eggs, by Kyjen; they make the list every year.
Second is the Oy Vey! Gefilte Fish by Multipet. This talking fish is fun for people as well as their dogs.
Third are the IQube Replacement Balls, by Kyjen. These dog balls are fun with or without the IQube dog puzzle.
Babble Balls come in three sizes and three different sounds; however, the small Talking Babble Ball, by Pet Qwerks, is fourth on the 2009 list.
Tyler Gobbling Turkey, by Multipet, is a fun voice chip dog toy, and it is fifth on the list.
Sixth is the 14-inch Push-n-Play Jolly Ball, by Jolly Pet. This is the largest-size durable dog ball on the market; plus, all Jolly Ball dog toys are made in the USA!
Sweet singing Awreatha the Christmas Wreath, by Multipet, is seventh on the list; it plays a music-box version of “We Wish You a Merry Christmas.” Eighth is the perfect Hanukkah dog gift, a singing Hanukkah Dreidel, by Multipet.
The Hide a Squirrel Plush Dog Puzzle, by Kyjen, always makes the list, and it is number nine for 2009.
Dogs who love noisy dog toys love the Deedle Dudes Cow by Multipet; that is why it is number ten this year.
Number eleven is REPLACEMENT Squirrels by Kyjen.
The BARKING Shaggy Christmas Dogs, also by Kyjen, bark Christmas carols and are twelfth on the list.
Numbers 13 and 14 are both by Party Pets; the Ball Jack and the Bungee Octopus are classic bright-colored dog toys.
Fifteenth on the list is Trap Mouse by Ty Bow-Wow Beanie Babies. Bow Wow Beanies are one of the best dog toy values — they are made from quality plush and not only have a squeaker, they have crinkle paper, too!
Another Multipet Look Who’s Talking made the list, at number 16: the crowing Rooster, which makes a realistic crowing sound.
A new plush dog puzzle, the Magic Hat with Rabbits, by Kyjen, is seventeenth on the list.
All Nina Ottosson Zoo Active dog problem-solving puzzles are very popular; however, the Dog Tornado is number eighteen on the list. One of the Dr. Noys’ Toys always makes this list.
This year the Extra Small Duckie Duck is number nineteen. Dr. Noys’ Toys have little or no stuffing, and they have replacement squeakers, too!
In at number twenty is the Sheep Bottle Buddies. Water bottle cover dog toys are so popular because they never stop their crinkly sound.
Now K9 Magazine has put together a feature profiling 5 of the best harnesses for dogs, highlighting the benefits of each with an insightful profile of this increasingly popular piece of dog training equipment.
K9 Magazine says:
“We’re always on the hunt for the best dog products around, and we suddenly thought – what’s the point in us knowing if we don’t tell you? Continuing our series of the Best Dog Products, we’ve been hard at work finding the best dog harnesses for Spring.”
Profile in the feature are:
On the specific issue of pulling on the lead, the magazine has this advice:
“Assessing the world through the dog’s eyes is paramount to helping him walk to heel. In order to change the dogs mind from pulling, we have to communicate in a gentle language he will understand.
The dog believing he is the leader believes it is his job to protect the pack and anything that approaches such as other dogs, joggers or cars could be perceived as a threat.
This creates all sorts of problems as the dog in a human ruled world will react to the threat in three ways: Flight, freeze and fight.”
Find out more about K9 Magazine’s recommendations for buying a dog harness (http://www.k9magazine.com/best-dog-harnesses/)
Owning a dog with a predisposition toward nervousness is not an insurmountable obstacle. These top tips should help.
Once the dog has learned not to react at all to visitors, ask the occasional ‘dog-knowledgeable’ guest to nonchalantly and without any ceremony, simply drop a treat by the dog and then walk off in another direction. It is important they don’t try and make a fuss of the dog or offer the treat from the hand. Doing this regularly with different guests will accustom the dog to the idea that all visitors are not intruders to the ‘den’ and they are not intent on causing harm to the dog or his pack.
4) Complimentary therapies and treatments can be very helpful for aiding nerves. Diet also plays an important role. If a dog is unusually nervous, listless, depressed or lacking coat condition a change of food may be in order. There are specialist dieticians and holistic vets who may be able to greatly increase your dog’s physical and psychological well-being, thus improving the dog’s confidence and reducing nervousness. Try the Internet or Yellow pages and look for holistic vets and animal dieticians.
3) Keep in your mind at all times how your body language impacts the shy or nervous dog. You are a very large creature with an ability to make all sorts of frightening noises (hoovers, washing machines, shouting at the TV). Imagine another creature that was the equivalent distance in size to what you are to a dog and you will have an appreciation of how the shy or nervous dog may see you.
Now imagine that creature ‘bearing’ down on you with wide eyes, a booming voice and hands the size of saucepans on their way to touch your face. Frightening isn’t it? Well, to a shy or nervous dog that can be how they see the world of humans and your body language can be interpreted wrongly by the dog.
The fact that you are so much bigger than him and the fact that people at large generally have a tendency to approach dogs from a standing position thus bearing down on them can make the world a scary place. Always try and narrow the size difference with a nervy dog by getting down to their level. Avoid direct eye contact at all times, don’t wear sunglasses (to a dog, they look like a pair of wide, staring eyes that never go away) and remember how the dog sees the world from different angles than you. Body language is vital in helping nervous dogs overcome their fears.
2) Make use of other dogs. Dogs, as a rule, will copy and emulate their canine counterparts. If you have a nervous dog it can be a wonderful experience for him or her to meet a carefully selected friend. Just one other dog to begin with. Let them play, let the explore and the nervous dog will very soon begin to absorb the confidence of their bolder playmate and mimic their behaviour around people. It may take a while but regular ‘play sessions’ with other dogs can be the ultimate technique for curing many of the nervousness dog’s hang-ups about life.
Ensure the play mate is well selected, is playful but not boisterous and has no aggressive tendencies. Don’t, under any circumstances try and help a nervous dog by introducing them to an equally nervous playmate, it will double the problem. Meeting other dogs is a pastime best done socially where a ‘screening’ process can take place. Taking a nervous dog somewhere where there are likely to be lots of other dogs can be problematic. Explain your problems to friends, family, co-workers and be honest about your need to find a well-mannered, confident dog for yours to play with from time to time.
1) Consistency is a word used by all dog trainers and behaviour experts on a, well, consistent basis. Never is it more pertinent than in the case of the nervous or shy dog. You may be an erratic person, disorganised, impulsive, loud, prone to bad moods or shouting with none of these characteristics meant for the dog’s consumption. However even the most ebullient of pooches will catch the vibes if something’s ‘up’ in the household.
Ensuring stability, calm and an even tempered approach to home life will not only allow you to live longer and avoid an ulcer it will, above any other training tip or technique, help the more nervous of dogs to adjust to the world. Be patient, be calm, be understanding and be empathetic towards the dog’s disposition. Even if he or she has done something particularly naughty you must accept that there are certain ways to correct the problem that may work on 99.9{d4f4ff813a06e2c77cbb9c6effe011ebffe2f8986e44983e90e08c54deb62f63} of dogs, even on dogs you have previous owned, but on THIS nervous or shy pet, the wrong response from you could literally kill their spirit.

Trying to determine if your dog is experiencing anger, love, or any other “human” emotion is difficult. To date, no one has been able to provide convincing scientific evidence that we can distinguish one emotion from another by what our brains or hormones do. We obviously feel differently when we’re in a loving versus an angry mood; however, what our brain does to influence us to feel those very different emotions is less clear.

Nonetheless, we believe that our pets love us, they appear to be embarrassed when we dress them up in silly clothes, and they certainly look like they’re feeling guilty after doing something wrong.” But do they know right from wrong, and when they do the wrong thing, do they really feel guilty?
What would it take for us to be convinced that our pet actually experiences a specific emotion? Is it possible that his appearance, the way he looks in his body language and behaviour, leads us to confuse guilt with submissive, defensive behaviour? Do we think that he’s experiencing guilt from the way he looks or from the situation that seems to call for guilt? Do we think that our dog actually feels emotions such as guilt, love, shame, hope, pride, relief, regret, or revenge? It’s an interesting question, and behaviourists are still working on it. But let’s look at it in terms of revenge.
When we think of getting revenge against someone who has “done us wrong,” we think of doing something to get back at the person. We decide on the appropriate revenge by imagining how it would make the person feel to have such-and-such happen to him. If we think it would really make him feel bad, and it would get back at him in an appropriate way, it makes us feel good, even if we just imagine it. We don’t actually need to get revenge, we just need to imagine his reaction if he were to get what he deserves.
Your dog probably doesn’t have the ability to imagine how you would feel if he were to soil your bed as revenge for leaving him alone all weekend. And he probably wouldn’t chew your favourite shoes as revenge for locking him in the bedroom and keeping him from enjoying that piece of chicken you had last night. The ability to look into another’s psyche to imagine one’s emotional response to a planned endeavour is what behaviourists call revenge. Revenge requires a “theory of mind” that dogs do not have.
Dogs see the world from their perspective. That’s why arranging their daily lives from their point of view works so well. Not only would it seem strange to understand why you won’t give him a dog biscuit before dinner because it would spoil his appetite, but it would seem even more strange if he is seen planning something later that evening to make you feel bad in some way for your stinginess. Yet we often find ourselves believing that this is exactly what our pet must have done when we discover that he’s chewed our best shoes. In reality, our pet’s behaviour is probably caused by a disruption of his routine, an increased arousal or excitement, or a way to relieve discomfort or frustration.
Now that you understand your dog’s emotions, you can go about changing them to create a mood that is incompatible with the mood that drives his misbehaviour. The concept is called the principle of competing motivations: A dog cannot be angry, fearful, or depressed and happy or exited at the same time!
[note color=”#FFCC00″]A test for the observant dog experts: can you explain what, exactly, is ‘unusual’ about the picture of two Labradors featured above? Submit your theories below in the comments section :)[/note]
“I live on a cow farm and my dog is a Samoyed. Every once in a while he gets out and chases the cows and we are afraid that one of the cows will fall and break a leg, or fall and injure the dog. Can you tell me a way I could break his habit of chasing cows?”

Answer:
For most dogs there is a possible answer, but your Samoyed is in a different category than most breeds. Perhaps you are unaware that your Samoyed’s ancestors were charged with the responsibility of going out on their own – unattended by humans – to round up reindeer and heard them back to the camp.
This herding instinct has not been lost to the Samoyed down through the ages, and has in fact remained surprisingly strong.
To attempt to break your Samoyed of responding to the natural instinct could quite possibly have an adverse affect on his mental processes. I would suggest that you first enroll your dog in an obedience training class. Once thoroughly trained in basic obedience, you can then find a specialized instructor that may be able to instruct you on how to curb your dog’s appetite for herding.
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When we think about dog grooming, we often picture Poodles, Pomeranians and posh pooches. But grooming is essential for all dogs. Dogs skin and coats are a vital health concern for dog owners to consider.

When it comes time to brush up on your dog’s grooming, here are some helpful hints.
1. Select a brush that is intended for your dog’s hair type. Brushes with bristles that are farther apart, such as pin brushes, are useful on dogs with longer, thicker hair, while brushes with shorter, harder bristles are useful on shorthaired dogs.
2. If you’ve purchased your dog from a breeder, ask the breeder what kind of brush is best to use on your breed.
3. Wire brushes and slicker brushes help remove dry, dead skin from your dog’s coat along with the excess hair. Getting the hair out of the wire brushes and slickers once you’ve groomed your dog can be difficult if not impossible. To help remove the hair deposits on the wire brush, use a toothpick between the bristles.
4. An alternative to a brush is a grooming glove that you wear on your hand. The tiny prongs on the glove’s surface remove dead hair as you gently stroke your dog. Pull the hair off for disposal in the trash.
5. An undercoat rake will help remove the undercoat of hair on your pet that typically knots up. Note: If you are showing your dog, make certain that removing the undercoat of your dog’s coat is acceptable for the show ring.
6. To remove excess loose hair from your dog, wrap masking tape around your hand and run the tape lightly over his coat.
7. Massage your dog with dampened hands after you take a shower or bath to remove excess hair.
8. A damp rubber glove will help remove excess hair from your dog as well as your furniture.
9. If your dog enjoys being massaged, purchase a battery-operated massager or one that also functions as a brush and a way to collect loose hair. The gentle sound relaxes tension and the massage soothes sore muscles as you groom your dog.
10. Vacuuming hair from your dog helps when shedding season arrives and prevents some of it from attaching itself to your furniture. Some dogs like the vacuum cleaner; others don’t. To accustom your dog to the vacuum being gently run over his coat, begin using it when he is a puppy.
11. If burrs have become tangled in your dog’s hair, crush them with a pair of pliers before brushing them out. Another method of removing burrs is to first saturate them with white petroleum jelly or mineral oil, then work them out of your dog’s hair with your hands.

A puppy personality test enables you to conduct some (very) unscientific research prior to choosing your puppy. We’ve got four short tips to help you run a puppy personality test but be advised, like people, puppy personality transforms as a result of training, experiences and genetic influence that may not be present when you run the puppy personality test at a very early age.
Here are four tests you can perform with each puppy if you are selecting from a litter of 7-weeks or older:
1. Hold each puppy up so that its feet are a few inches off the floor. Observe its reaction: A normal puppy will struggle for a few seconds and then settle down. This reaction indicates spirit but also a willingness to accept authority. A dominant puppy will continue struggling and may howl and bite. A submissive puppy will just dangle passively and accept the situation or in severe cases, panic and submissively urinate.
2. Hold each puppy on its back in your lap. Comfort it by stroking its belly and talking to it softly. Observe its reaction: A normal puppy will struggle briefly, then settle. This is the response that most buyers should look for. A dominant puppy will struggle constantly, howl, and perhaps try to bite. A submissive puppy will succumb and perhaps urinate or, in an extreme case, panic.
3. Set the puppy on its feet on the floor. Then toss a ball or a crumpled piece of paper away from the puppy and observe its reaction: A normal puppy will chase the object, play with it, and perhaps bring it back to you if you call out to it. It will allow you to take the object away without much fuss. A dominant puppy will chase the object, take it to a corner, and ignore you when you call out to it. It may growl at you if you attempt to reclaim the object. A submissive puppy may not react at all to the object or may actually be afraid of it.
4. Crouch down a few feet from the puppy and encourage it to come to you by clapping or whistling. Observe its reaction: A normal puppy will happily come over to you in a confident, playful manner. A dominant puppy will either charge you and jump up on you recklessly or completely ignore you. A submissive puppy may hide in a corner or come over cautiously and expose its belly, perhaps even urinating upon being touched.
Let us consider extremely submissive behaviour to be far left of centre, normal to be at the centre, and extremely dominant to be far right of centre. Most buyers who are looking for a loving, trainable family pet should consider a puppy that performs as close to the centre as possible. If you desire a working or obedience dog, or if you are a robust, physically imposing person, you may wish to consider a puppy that is slightly to the right of centre. If you are a quiet, slight person, look for a puppy that is slightly left of centre.
When dealing with a dominant breed such as the Rottweiler, Mastiff, or German Shepherd, you would do well to consider a puppy that is slightly left of centre. When dealing with a submissive breed such as the Maltese, Greyhound, or Wheaten Terrier, you might wish to consider a puppy that is slightly right of centre. In all cases, avoid the extremes.