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  • Why Is Puppy Socialization So Important?

    Puppy socialization is so important, it’s worth saying twice. A failure to properly socialize young puppies is one of the single biggest reasons for bad dog behavior in adult dogs. Behavior such as aggression (dog on dog), disobedience and general bad manners around other dogs, particularly in public. The long term benefits of a high quality puppy socialization plan simply can’t be stressed enough. You can’t wind the clock back after all.

    puppy socialization

    Puppy Socialization Can Start Early

    Proper early socialization of your puppy can have the positive lasting impact over the course of your dog’s life. It really is THAT crucial.

    Socializing your puppy is such a critical part of raising a well adjusted dog. Through early puppy socialization, your young dog can learn to fit into society, learn to live with humans and also with other dogs. This leads to a calm, adaptable dog who isn’t fazed by what they encounter in day to day life.

    If dogs are not correctly socialized, they may develop inappropriate behaviors when exposed to new situations or new dogs and people. This can include being overly aggressive or fearful in unfamiliar circumstances. Puppy socialization can help your pup adjust to the world around them at an early age.

    When Does Puppy Socialization Begin?

    Socializing starts when a puppy is still with its mother and with the breeder. A puppy first learns canine body language and pack structure from around three to four weeks of age, while playing and interacting with its litter mates. It is important that a breeder handles her puppies and plays with them regularly, to give them positive early experiences with people.

    The ideal time to bring your new puppy home is when he is eight weeks old. The period from eight to twelve weeks of age is very important for socialization, as your pup is very open to learning and enjoying new experiences. It is vital to take advantage of this stage of your puppy’s social development.

    Quick puppy socialization tip: It’s a good idea to invite friends and families to your house to visit, bringing with them their well behaved dog. You can also introduce your puppy to calm, well-mannered children. This type of puppy socialization strategy can allow your pup to learn in a relaxed, informal way.

    Puppy Socialization Classes

    Puppy preschool is also very important for your young dog. It allows puppies to meet and interact with other dogs of a similar age and level of development, as well as learning some basic obedience commands.

    This improves the communication skills of your puppy, as well as enhances the bond between dog and owner. It also allows your dog to sniff and explore in a safe and supportive environment.

    Other options for socializing your dog can include going to dog friendly places such as off-leash parks and beaches. It is vital to make sure that your puppy is up to date on its vaccinations, as there may be an increased risk of disease in these places. Also, you need to remember that the other dogs which are there may not necessarily be under complete control.

    There may even be under-socialized dogs who may frighten your puppy and set it back in its learning. It may even be better to keep your puppy away from these areas until he is more mature and better able to cope.

    It takes a lot of work and effort to socialize a puppy well, but it is an investment in his future, and will help him to fit into his world. Doing a good job will lead to a well adjusted and happy companion who can take anything in his stride.

    What’s The Most Important Word to Teach Your New Puppy?

    The most important word you can teach your puppy is his name. Getting him to recognize and respond positively to his name can really help during the socialization process.  Use your pup’s name in a positive context 100{d4f4ff813a06e2c77cbb9c6effe011ebffe2f8986e44983e90e08c54deb62f63} of the time. Don’t scold them using their name, use the word “No!” instead. Their name should evoke a positive response.

    The capacity to learn is born in every puppy, to a greater or lesser degree. Your puppy starts learning the moment he enters your house. (He starts learning about you and soon picks up on all your varying idiosyncrasies – whether you realize you have them or not, mark my words – your puppy will!). His capacity to learn grows as he does and is fully developed at the age of about a year. Although he’ll stop physically growing, he never stops learning and the early puppy socialization steps you take from day one can act as the building blocks to having the most well mannered, well behaved dog over the lifetime of your pet.

    Puppy Socialization Experiences From Owners

    How are other dog owners socializing their puppies?

    A question from a puppy owner on the best methods for deploying a puppy socialization strategy that works, elicited some excellent advice:

    Get the pup as much exposure to as many different things as possible (without scaring it )

    Elsie is just coming up to 16 weeks now.

    As a rough guide, she has been coming out with us (carried until she could go down) from 8 weeks old to shops especially garden centres and pet stores which are great for meeting people and seeing different things. She has met horses, cows, dogs, cats, alpacas, sheep, pigs, ducks, geese, chickens and been exposed to cars, lorries, buses, motor cycles, pedal cycles, boats, chainsaws, tractors, JCBs, pony & trap, carriage and four, . . the list is endless.

    However she is now, at 16 weeks happy and content in more or less any situation she finds herself in.

    She has also learnt to recall (instantly – but I know we will need to keep working on that to keep her focussed as she grows) she sits and waits for her dinner and also will sit when asked now.

    Interesting Puppy Socialization Disease Query:

    What are the risks of puppy infections vs reward for early socialization?

    Today I visited a dog training establishment to observe some puppy socialisation. When I said that it would be another 3 weeks before my puppy was fully protected from her jabs she suggested that, in her opinion, the benefits of early puppy socialisation outweighed the risk of picking up an infection.

    I make an assumption that the puppies attending will all have been inoculated (you don’t spend money for socialisation and training and not do basic health care), but the field is used for lots of dog work. At my vets there is a sign saying puppies that haven’t completed their jabs should not be allowed down on the floor for risk of infection.

    Any comments/feedback appreciated.

    BTW it was really nice to see loads of pups out having fun together…the younger/less sure pups were kept seperate from the older more boisterous one’s.

    —
    A great question. Answered succinctly…

    More dogs are put to sleep due to behavioral problems than all other illnesses put together.

    To me it is a no brainer IF the environment is safe. My dogs come home at 7 weeks go on the ground immediately and do not have their first vaccination for a couple of weeks.

    None have contracted any diseases.

    Puppy Socialization Checklist: To achieve the best early puppy socialization results, be prepared to let your puppy get exposure to many new things, new people, new dogs. Be patient but be focussed on the fact that you can’t rewind the clock. Puppy socialization is absolutely crucial for the long term benefit of you and your dog.

     

  • Dog Urine Killing Lawn?

    Dog urine killing lawn? Now, that’s a problem many a dog owner has faced and it causes frustration and annoyance that on the one hand we want our dogs to enjoy our garden, on the other, WE want to enjoy our garden as well!

    Our well kept lawn is now looking more like a patchwork of green and brown circles because our beloved dog has seen fit to create their own little patterns.

    Of course, it’s really not their fault. I’m positive if your dog knew how, he’d process his internal chemicals to such an extent that instead of killing our lawn, his toilet trips were able to grow us a beautiful little flower to remind us just why we love him so much!

    In reality, dog owners with ‘doggy patches’ all over their grass is a problem we can solve with just a few simple steps.

    How to Stop Dog Urine Killing Your Lawn

    Bev McDonald offers her insight in to how she tackled this common canine problem….

    It never fails, my two dogs – both lovable and protective Rottweilers – seem to enjoy urinating in the same spot of the backyard, day in, day out. Whether it’s morning, noon or night, it’s down the steps and to the right, donating copious amounts of healthy, adult dog urine in an approximate 4-square-foot area.

    The result is a large patch of brown, ugly, burned-out lawn that surrounds the bottom step of the deck. For my nicely landscaped backyard, the large urine burns are rather unsightly.

    I realized that unless some serious changes are made (and getting rid of the dogs was NOT an option), then these spots were not going to go away on their own, so I had to start my research and will not share with you what I learned to keep my grass green and my dogs happy and to try and prevent dog urine killing my lawn.

    Why Dog Urine Turns Grass Brown

    It’s no secret that urine burns grass, as well as many types of shrubs, annual flowers and perennial plants. What causes the burn is nitrogen. When a dog eats a meal, the protein in the food is metabolized. A byproduct of metabolized protein is nitrogen.

    The kidneys are responsible for the collection and secretion of many of the body’s unwanted excesses, including byproducts of metabolized foods, such as nitrogen. So, if all is going well with the dog’s bodily functions then excess nitrogen will be flushed out of the dog’s body through his urine.

    Here is where things get a bit tricky: Those who work with lawns and plants know that nitrogen is used as fertilizer. So what’s so special about the nitrogen in dog urine that causes it to kill everything green it touches? The secret is in the solution, so to speak.

    With fertilizers containing nitrogen, a small amount goes a long way. If you’re using a rotary spreader (which is used to fertilize the lawn), spilling a pile of fertilizer in one spot would be similar to a pool of urine. The concentration would be too high and would kill the grass below.

    Once grass is dead from nitrogen burn there’s not much you can do to revive it. If you want healthy green grass, you’re going to have to replant this area. You’ll need to rake up the dead grass and plant new seed.

    Replanting dead areas, however, is somewhat of a “band-aid” approach. If you don’t get to the root of the problem (dog urine), you’re likely to wind up with more dead patches of grass all over the lawn.

    So, without further ado here’s my top tip to stop dog urine destroying your lawn…

    put a small blob of tomato ketchup in their food every day and watch what happens.

    Sounds simple, yes? It is! Try it and observe.

    So if you’re having similar problems with dog urine killing your lawn, now you have a workable solution that you can implement very easily.

  • How To Dog Proof Your Home

    Straying, dog theft and other disasters can really cause untold emotional damage to the unfortunate dog owners who have to experience the aftermath of a dog going missing. In this comprehensive guide, courtesy of our friends at K9 Magazine, we give you some simple, easy to implement instructions on how you can make your home more secure and, as close as possible, dog proof.

    When was the last time your heard a burglar alarm and immediately dropped what you were doing to call the police? More often than not, the shrill, incessant droning of a burglar alarm is the result of somebody forgetting to let the cat out, a large insect disturbing the sensor or simply a power cut. Very rarely are intruders apprehended on the presence of an alarm sounding, so those of us who wish to add an extra element of security to our homes need to think past the burglar alarm systems of old.

    For many of us, our dog constitutes a significant part of what we consider to be our house hold security, but if it is our dog that appears on the shopping list of a burglar the ‘beware of the dog’ sign will only serve as confirmation that the goods are inside. A dog being stolen to order is becoming more common, especially where rare pedigrees are concerned. This does not mean we all need to shell out thousands on hi-tech intruder systems and James Bond style gadgets. Any police officer will tell you that your common sense is your best weapon against crime.

    We also need to be aware that dogs don’t need to be in the garden to be tempted by an escape. A front door left open for a couple of seconds could be enough time for a bored dog to nip out in search of some fun only to get lost or worse, hit by a car.

    Effective home security relies on common sense more than anything. Are points of entry such as doors, windows and skylights blatant adverts to burglars that your home could easy pickings? The most common point of entry in instances of breaking and entering is a ground floor window, at the rear of a property.

    Secure Windows

    Double glazing is an obvious security enhancement, but there is usually one window that provides the weak spot. Does your downstairs toilet have double glazing, or does it have that frosted glass that obscures the view inside? If it does, that is where your burglar will try to get in first. Nine out of ten double glazed windows are as useful as no double glazed windows from a security point of view.

    If a window can’t be easily smashed, it can often be levered or ‘jimmied’ open. John Davies of Everglaze explained why their windows offer an extra element of security. “In independent tests, PVCu used in windows and doors has proven to be the most resistant of materials against break ins. This coupled with state of the art locking systems mean that you can have peace of mind as well as beautiful windows.”

    Doors

    Doors to the rear of your property are also commons means of break ins. Doors with glass panelling are the most popular for thieves, whereas doors with ‘yield’ locks are the biggest deterrent according to Home Office figures. Janette Taylor of Kershaw’s Door Warehouse explained how to pick a secure door for keeping dogs in and thieves out. “A solid timber fire door is the most secure door you can get aside from the steel ones you see on army bases and in prisons.

    The solid timber doors are not that attractive though, but we work by the rule that the door with the least amount of panels is the most secure, a solid timber fire door is one piece of wood, so it has no weak spots. If you want something a little more pleasing to the eye but still relatively tough and resistant, go for a four panel door with mortice and tennon joints.

    These are normal looking doors with reinforced joints at the hinge and handle. As far as keeping dogs inside you could go for a concealed door closer. The tension of the springs governs the time it takes for the door to close, but you are really better off making sure your dog is safely inside before you open the door, some of those door closers snap shut very quickly”

    General Household Security

    Dogs have been known to escape through ground and first floor windows. There are sophisticated locking systems available that allow a window to be partially open and locked at the same time, if you wish to allow in some air whilst ensuring the window will not be nudged open.

    Elaborate camera and panic systems are effective in identifying intruders and alerting the police, but they very rarely ensure your stolen goods are returned. Whilst being effective in improving the percentage of burglars being caught, once your home has been breached any security measures you have taken become redundant.

    Top Home Security Tips for Dog Owners:

    Make your house unappealing to intruders by keeping it well lit.

    Make entry difficult by having solid or at least near solid doors.

    Ensure all ground floor windows are double glazed, or at least have modern locking systems in place.

    Don’t leave tools for a burglar in a place where they are visible. Ladders, house bricks and even skipping ropes have been used to break into houses.

    All of the above are useless if you don’t use your common sense.
    Lock doors, close windows and ensure your house does not become a soft target.

    Dog Proof Your Garden

    One thing that strikes fear into any dog owner is the thought that their dog may escape from the garden. This is why dog owners take certain precautions such as locking the gate, accompanying their dog when he is in the garden and in some cases actually keeping the dog on lead whilst he goes for a quick stretch outside. There are obvious risks and easily imagined worst case scenarios every time your dog scratches at the back to door to be let out.

    With some careful planning and a little elbow grease, your garden can be escape proof and more importantly it can be intruder proof. The last thing you want to do is spend money ensuring your dog stays on the right side of the fence, only for someone to hop over and steal him.

    Your garden need not like a fortress either. Stylish and attractive features can be made out of the most practical and functional elements of a garden. Ensuring that your garden combines security with style and aesthetics is not an easy combination, but it is possible.

    There are three main areas that provide security within your garden, the perimeter (fences and walls), the landscape (the layout, position of trees, ponds and other features) and the lighting (Deliberate lighting such as motion activated security lights as well as strategic positioning of trees and walls to allow for more light). Each of these three areas provide focal points for any garden, adding character and charm as well as serving a practical function.

    The Perimeter

    A determined dog can dig under a fence or even negotiate his way over one. Since an overly tall fence may look displaced in some gardens, consider making access to the fence less tempting to a dog. Water features such as ponds and waterfalls can prevent a dog getting sufficient access to a fence to facilitate an escape. Bushes and shrubs can perform a similar function whilst being cheaper and providing colour.

    If you want to keep your dog away from certain parts of the garden, a fence with weld wood panels (From £92.25 for 1.2 metres) is a good option. Louise Tomlin of Jacksons Fine Fencing explained “The weld-wood panel fences are an excellent idea for dog fencing. They don’t make your garden look like an industrial site and are a great plant support providing an easy surface for climbers to grow”

    It imperative for the secure garden that the fence goes far enough into the earth to prevent a dog from digging out.

    The Landscape

    Restricting a dog’s access to points of exit is key to achieving a secure garden. A well positioned pond or rockery can be more effective than an imposing fence or wall. Combined with an effective wall they can be doubly effective. The trick is to think like a dog. How would your dog try to escape? A rockery elevating a dog half way up a fence can do more harm than good in preventing an escape, and can also allow for ease of access for any would be intruder.

    Tall trees provide an extra element to your perimeter. But they also reduce the amount of light getting into your garden. A dark, concealed fence is an ideal entry point for an intruder, whereas a pond positioned underneath the lowest point of any fence or wall provides an extra obstacle for any intruder or potential escapee.

    The Lighting

    Lighting is a key element to the security of both house and home. Placing motion detecting lights strategically around your garden (the cost of which obviously depends on the size of your garden) can ensure that any intruders are deprived of the cover of darkness. Lighting does little to prevent a determined intruder, but it is often used as a deterrent to the opportunist.

    Clever lighting adds style and beauty to any garden. Consider placing upwards pointing spot lamps underneath a tree or in a border. Make your garden look twice the size by arranging your lighting in the corners of your garden or at any elevated points such as a rockery or raised decking.

    —
    You can get more helpful (potentially life saving) tips, advice and resources like this by joining the thousands of grateful dog lovers with a K9 Magazine Premier Membership.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jTrtOGdJ7Q

  • Can Valerian Root Help Dogs With Anxiety?

    Can Valerian Root Help Dogs With Anxiety?

    Valerian Root for the treatment of anxiety in dogs is gaining popularity according to published editorials. More and more citations are popping up from dog owners and indeed dog experts who have deployed the herb as part of a balanced treatment plan for dogs who suffer with anxiety issues.

    Dogs and Valerian Root: Overview

    Herbalists describe valerian as a dry, cool, bitter, and pungent herbal remedy. The substances that are in Valerian include alkaloids, volatile oils (including borneol and isovalerianic), and inridoids. Valerian is used for many different ailments, including as an expectorant, tranquilizer, diuretic, lowering blood pressure, antispasmodic, carminative, and as a mild anodyne.

    What Is Valerian Root Used For?

    The root is the commonly used part of the plant in the making of a herbal remedy. It is normally used for relieving nervous tension. It is also known for treating insomnia, anxiety, and strengthening the heart. It is sometimes used for treating ulcers and wounds as well. This herb is normally harvested in the autumn/fall season.

    What Does Valerian Root Do?

    Often sold as a nutritional supplement, Valerian root is commonly used for insomnia and other disorders related to anxiety. It is a natural product. Basically, Valerian root is used as a natural sedative – increasingly as an alternative to drugs.

    Interesting note: Valerian root can be quite pungent and actually smells quite similar to dog ear wax!

    There has been some recorded usage of Valerian root being used in a management program to help dogs with seizures. As with all canine medical issues you should always seek the advice and opinion of a qualified vet before you give your dog any kind of medication, natural or otherwise. Particularly if they are currently on meds as unwanted drug interactions can be very serious indeed.

    Summary: Valerian Root and Dog Anxiety

    Some dog experts have recommended Valerian root for calming a dog during times of high stress and anxiety. What causes anxiety in dogs can vary from animal to animal. Some dogs hate fireworks, some hate being separated from their owners (separation anxiety) – some dogs even hate bath times.

    For those who have successfully used Valerian root in these circumstances, it has proven to be an effective herbal supplement – but it must be noted, it’s not a replacement for sound dog training and positive association behavior modification.

    Looking to buy some Valerian root for your dog? CLICK HERE!

  • Dog Leash Training Guide

    So, you’d like to know how to stop your dog pulling on the lead?

    Glorious summer days. The sounds of birds tweeting. Beautiful scenery all around….all completely overshadowed by the hound from hell dragging you at a pace you didn’t choose, in fact at a pace you can barely keep up with!

    Taking the dog for a walk is supposed to be a joy but with the dog who pulls on the leads, it becomes more of a hand chaffing nightmare!

    Let’s take a look at the steps we can take to learn how to stop a dog pulling on the lead.

    Stop Dog Pulling: Leads, Collars & Getting The Right Equipment

    Canine psychologist Natalka Jacyszyn – author of this report on ‘How to cure lead pulling in dogs‘ recommends using a flat collar and a nylon or rope lead, something that is comfortable for both you and your dog. Do not use an extending lead for training as you will find that you may not have enough control.

    Dog Leash Training

    Getting the equipment right is as crucial as teaching the desirable heel walking position using positive rewards.

    Having a dog that pulls is one thing, but having a dog that’s able to pull due to an owner using incorrect lead and collar set up is only going to make matters much, much worse.

    Dog Leash Training: Using a Clicker to Cure Lead Pulling

    Clickers are a fun and fast way to speed up your puppy’s learning process. Clicker training relies on behavior shaping principles that mark desired behavior.

    With clicker training, timing is everything. You must capture the exact moment your dog is doing something right. Also start thinking in terms of stage-by-stage training. Let’s say I want to teach my dog to make a left circle. I sit with my dog and click when my dog takes one step to the left. That’s stage one. Then I hold out my click for two steps, then three, then a full circle.

    Training this way definitely takes longer than pulling my dog in a circle, but once my dog figures out the sequence, he’s doing a circle with far more zest and enthusiasm than if I tugged him around and around.

    The second secret of clicker training: Don’t attach a spoken command to behavior until your dog has figured out what is making the clicker work. To explain, think of the behavior Sit. Each time your dog sits, click and reward.

    Getting the dog used to the concept of associating the click noise with a positive reward is how you achieve the best response when teaching the dog the desired behaviour to cure lead pulling problems.

    Tip: You do not begin with the clicker on correcting the lead pulling until you have properly established the positive response reaction with the dog by rewarding small, simple behaviours – such as sitting and coming when called.

    The Basics of Training Positive Behavior in Dogs

    Training any new desired dog behaviour follows a simple six-step method. Depending on the dog and other circumstances, a good trainer will vary his training method when he decides that a particular training challenge needs either a little more or less. When you have used the method enough to know it well, you can add your own personal touch as needed.

    The following are six steps for teaching your dog any new behaviour

    1. Get the behaviour.
    2. Mark the behaviour.
    3. Reward the behaviour.
    4. Repeat the behaviour until it happens easily at least 90{d4f4ff813a06e2c77cbb9c6effe011ebffe2f8986e44983e90e08c54deb62f63} of the time.
    5. Add the verbal cue as your dog does the behaviour to associate the word with the appropriate response.
    6. Use the verbal cue to elicit the behaviour.

    You get the behaviour by capturing, shaping, or luring it. You mark the behaviour with the click., or some other reward marker that your dog has already learned means that the reward is coming. Reward the behaviour by following the click with his favorite treat or, in some cases, with a favorite toy or other desirable reward, such as swimming or going outside.

    Repeat the behaviour until your pet is offering it easily before you add the verbal cue, so that he will associate the word with the correct behaviour response. For instance, by saying “Sit” as he does it, you are telling him that the name of the behaviour he is doing is Sit. If you ask him to do it before he’s offering the behaviour easily, you risk teaching him that the word sit means “stand there and look at me,” or worse, “sniff the ground and pull on the leash.”

    After your dog has heard the word at least a half-dozen times during the behaviour, depending on how quickly he seems to learn, then you can say the word first to elicit the behaviour. Be sure that his attention is focused on you so that he actually hears the word, and keep your body position the same as it was when you were getting the behaviour before. If you had been doing the “Sit” while you were standing and you suddenly start asking for it while you are sitting, he won’t understand that it’s the same thing.

    Give him a few seconds to respond. When he sits, click! and reward. If he doesn’t sit, use the minimum amount of assistance necessary (through body language or a lure, not through physical assistance) to get the behaviour, and repeat the exercise. If you find that he will only respond if you help him, start to minimize the amount of help you give until he is sitting for the verbal cue without any help from you.

    Would a Harness Stop Dogs Pulling?

    There are various styles of body harnesses is to choose from, but the majority of them have the basic metal D-ring which clips to the leash and is located on the strap that runs down the dog’s back. They can be used instead of collars which provide a much safer environment when the puppy tries to pull away.

    In this regard, the puppy receives the tension from the leash, instead of his or her neck, which could result in a spinal injury. Puppies are specially prone to running and darting every chance they get, even when on-leash. By removing the pressure from the dog’s airway, body harnesses are a safe and effective alternative to standard neck collars.

    If your dog is unresponsive when using a flat collar and lead – and still continues to pull – using a body harness or halter type set-up would be something to consider.

    The Basic Principles of Correcting Dog Pulling / Any Other Behavior

    Correcting the problem of a pulling dog is founded in two key principles that are universal to all dog training:

    1. Reward the desired behavior (lavishly)
    2. Do not reward the undesired behavior

    Now, you may wonder what it means to ‘not reward undesirable behavior’ but first it’s important to understand that any response can be perceived as a reward by some dogs.

    So if your dog is pulling and you respond by pulling back, for example, he may be treating this as a reward. He most certainly will if this process is just repeated over and over again.

    You need to work in small steps. Teach him to always second guess the direction you are going to walk in and the moment he is by your side, reward him. The moment he steps out too far, change direction and do not reward him.

    Be assertive and deliberate in your walking style. Do not let the dog lead the walk. If he pulls, you stop or go the other way.

    Encourage him to understand that he will be rewarded ONLY for not pulling. The moment you feel ANY tension on the lead, stop and don’t say a word to the dog. This is a non reward. Seek to establish in his mind a positive association with a loose leash and the way he is walking.

    If you have a problem with a dog who pulls on the lead, you can download K9 Magazine’s eBook ‘How to cure lead pulling in dogs ‘.

    Bonus Dog Leash Training Guide: How to Train Your Dog to Walk on a Loose Leash

    One of the biggest problems dog owners experience is out on the walk. The reason for this is due to the psychology of the pack needing a leader and more often than not, the dog thinks that he is it.

    If the dog believes he is the leader then he believes he should be at the front of the pack and this is why you will see owners being pulled by their dogs.

    Assessing the world through the dog’s eyes is paramount to helping him walk to heel. In order to change the dogs mind from pulling, we have to communicate in a gentle language he will understand.

    The dog believing he is the leader believes it is his job to protect the pack and anything that approaches such as other dogs, joggers or cars could be perceived as a threat.

    This creates all sorts of problems as the dog in a human ruled world will react to the threat in three ways: Flight, freeze and fight.

    To help the dog stay calm in a world it does not understand, we have to switch roles and become the leader. When you achieve this, the dog will have no responsibilities and look to you to react at the potential dangers. To reverse roles and teach the dog to heel we have to go back to basics where the walk starts and identify and progress through the stages. As we complete a stage we can then move forward.

    Firstly practice walking up and down the house with food reward encouraging your dog by your side rewarding him on a regular basis when he gets it right. As the dog understands where a good place to be is then you are ready to begin the first stage. The idea behind the stages is to start in a place where the dog feels comfortable with no distractions and build the foundations, as the dog improves you then slowly work up to a place with more distractions.

    The first stage is calling the dog to you to put the lead on. In this scenario the dog may become over excited at the sight of the lead and jump up, run around, nudge or make noise. If the dog does react in an undesirable manner then put the lead down. Putting the lead on when the dog is in this state will only encourage pulling out on the walk. Repeat by picking the lead up again and putting down, until the dog becomes desensitised to the lead and reacts in a calm manner. When the dog is in a calm state you are ready to put the lead on and move to the next stage.

    The second stage is putting the lead on and walking up and down the house once again encouraging your dog to the side you want him to be with food reward. If he gets it wrong we correct the mistake with a method called stop, start change direction. This method involves stopping when the dog drifts in front, encouraging him back to your chosen side, starting again when he is behind you, then changing direction. Repeating this method in the house lays the foundations for a good walk. Keep practicing and get it perfect in the house. If the dog does not listen to you in the house with no distractions, then he definitely will not listen to you outside with all the sights, smells and distractions.

    Teaching a Dog To Walk to Heel

    After teaching the dog to heel in the house you are ready to move to the third stage. The third stage is a place with more smells where the dog still feels safe like a garden, keep practicing stop, start, change direction, lots of praise, lots of food reward. If you haven’t got a garden, then choose a place outside with little distractions. Stay positive and dedicate a big space of time. Do not be in a hurry as the dog will feel if you are stressed. As the dog listens to you here then you are ready to progress to the next stage.

    The next stage is somewhere quiet with a few more distractions like a residential area, keep correcting if the dog pulls by stopping, starting and changing direction (SSCD).

    Reward The Dog When They Don’t Pull The Leash

    When they get it right keep rewarding, avoid all other dogs by crossing the road or walking in another direction, showing the dog that you lead in all areas. Keep away from all other distractions by leading the dog in a different direction. If you head towards a distraction or threat, then do not be surprised if your dog reacts. This means he is not ready so help him feel safe by keeping good distance.

    The more you play a leader role and choose flight from potential threats the more the dog will feel safe in your company and begin to trust your decisions. As the dog heels in this area and successfully follows you away from distractions then you can move on further afield to a busier place. If the dog still has problems here then spend time in this area teaching the dog.

    The next stage could be a busier residential street with more activity e.g. more cars, people and distractions. Walk up and down the street encouraging your dog by your side. If you or your dog feels anxious then go back to a stage where you both felt comfortable and progress again from there.

    When the dog is heeling to your side at this point then pick a busier place like your local village or town. This will be a test as there are many distractions. Once this is completed you are ready for the final stage, which is the park. If your dog pulls as soon as it gets here then walk back and try again. Keep repeating to you can successfully walk through the park on lead.

    Training the dog to heel is a test of wills, so no matter what keep it up and recognise your dog’s state. Staying calm, convincing and consistent and not rushing your dog will help him feel relaxed in a world he does not understand.

    Bonus #2: Puppy Leash Training – Stop Puppy Pulling on Lead

    New dog owners whom are working the basics of leash control should be attaching a leash to a harness. When you are not familiar with the basics of leash control, you don’t want to use a collar as it puts too much stress on your dog’s neck, as well as on your own back. Even a 25 pound puppy has a lot of force when he lunges forward.

    Once your puppy gets older and you have the basics of leash control down, then you can switch to a training collar. Remember, when walking your puppy, try to keep him from getting behind you and to your right side. This will only get you tangled up in his lead.

    Let’s look at the dynamics of a puppy’s pull. A pup’s hind legs act as a powerful engine that propel him forward while his shoulders steer him in the direction he wishes to go. Watch his front legs and where they are reaching – this is the direction he is going.

    Trying to hold your dog back when he pulls has the opposite effect that you wish to achieve. The more you resist his pull, the more his hind legs get revved up as if they are going into higher gear. His body sinks lower to the ground which lowers his center of gravity and the result is that your puppy now has more strength behind the pull. You don’t want to play tug-of-war with your puppy.

    The best action is to take a few steps forward into that weight, leading with your right leg so you can close in on your puppy’s head. When you do this, all that energy from his hind legs is released and flows over to his front legs – this throws his weight forward and his balance off. This action will considerably slow the movement of your puppy. This is a good time to snap the leash directly over your left shoulder and say “Wait.”

    You can also slow your puppy down by sitting lower in your seat as you walk, in other words, lowering your center of gravity. By bringing your weight down, you will physically fatigue your puppy from thrusting forward. You are using your weight to counter pull his movement. Since you weigh more than your puppy, you are using your weight to your advantage.

    Contributors

    Nigel Reed is a dog behaviourist from London. For further details about his work or to set up a consulation, visit www.dogtraininginlondon.co.uk

    Natalka Jacyszyn is a full time canine psychologist.

    Further Reading:

    If you are struggling with a dog pulling on the lead, check out Natalka Jacyszyn’s eBook ‘How to Cure Dog Pulling‘.

  • The Link Between Dog Food & Bad Behavior

    The Link Between Dog Food & Bad Behavior

    For many dog owners struggling with their dog’s behavior, one of the last places they investigate when trying to solve the problem is their dog’s food.

    The link between how dog’s behave and the food they eat is exceptionally close.

    In fact, the exact same is true of us.

    Think about it this way; if you were eating a diet fit for a high level athlete but lead a lifestyle that saw you confined to an office for 12 hours per day, you’d certainly find yourself feeling edgy, energetic and probably very frustrated.

    A key tip when trying to match your dog’s food and nutrition to their particular lifestyle is to learn to understand pet food labels. Knowing exactly what goes in to your dog’s food in terms of protein levels, fat levels and the general volume of calories per serving will open your eyes to whether your dog might be on a diet that is incompatible with their breed, age or specific lifestyle.

    Undesirable dog behavior doesn’t start and end with dog food but it is, without doubt, a huge contributory factor.

    “It is a simple fact that what you put into your dog is reflected in how they look, act and feel. Getting the right balance of nutrients is not entirely simple and depends on a seemingly endless amount of variables such as breed, activity level, age and medical condition. As a responsible dog owner, you owe it to your pet to ensure their diet is perfectly matched to their lifestyle, age and activity level. Many dog owners simply select a food and stick with it, never trying anything different and refusing to change even as the dog”s lifestyle changes.”

    Some useful resources for you to view:

    [redirect url=’http://www.dogtips.co/stop-dog-chasing-cows/’ sec=’3′]
  • Can Dogs Get Crohn’s Disease?

    Can Dogs Get Crohn’s Disease?

    Humans and dogs share many illnesses and ailments. On the question of whether dogs can get Chrons disease – which is condition that affects the bowel – the conclusion is yes.

    Symptoms of Chrons Disease in Dogs

    The symptoms to look out for include regular loose stool, watery diarrhea and a common urgency from the dog in needing to defecate.

    Chrons Disease in Dogs Affects The Intestines

    This stems from inflammation of the bowel and causes food to travel through the digestive tract much faster than in a healthy canine bowel. A condition of the disease is the bowel inflammation stopping water being absorbed properly in the dog’s digestion process.

    Treatment of Chrons Disease in Dogs

    The standard course of treatment should your dog be properly diagnosed as suffering with Chrons is ant-inflammatory medication / steroids.

    Unfortunately, as in humans, Chrons disease in dogs is not curable but can be managed with proper medication and a professional treatment plan. This can also include changes in diet so it’s important to get advice on the best nutrition for a dog with Chrons.

    If you suspect your dog may be suffering with a condition affecting their bowels you should speak to your vet and alert them to the symptoms. It’s always a good idea to keep a diary of events should you notice any changes to your dog’s behavior and / or condition.

    Chrons disease in dogs is rare.

  • Skin Problems in Dogs

    Skin problems in dogs are often serious and can lead to distress and even premature death. Identifying the signs and symptoms of canine skin problems as well as early treatment options can make a huge difference to your dog’s happiness and health, according to Iain Booth, a veterinary surgeon and founder of the on-line pet medication website VetUK.

    He explains that thousands of cats, dogs and other small furry pets suffer from minor to acute skin problems without their owners being aware of their suffering.

    “Just like humans, the skin of our pets is an organ – and it is vital to protect our furry friends from infections, caustic substances, dehydration and the harm of ultra violet light,” said Iain.

    Dog Skin Irritation

    “Not only does a skin irritation impact your pet’s health, but it can also severely change his or her personality as the itching and discomfort associated with a skin problem can make your pet stressed, moody and reluctant to be stroked.”

    Skin Problems in Dogs: Causes & Treatments

    One of the key triggers to skin problems in dogs across a wide range of pets is the reaction to biting parasites, such as fleas and mites. Because of their delicate immune systems, hamsters, rabbits and smaller dogs and cats cannot take very strong treatments, however there are a number of specialist treatments for the smaller pet.

    These include products which contain the active ingredient Ivermectin, a substance known to kill parasites that cause infestation both inside the body (endoparasites) as well as those living outside the body, on the skin (ectoparasites). Ivermectin is used in many species for the control of mites, roundworms and lice.

    Allergens: A Common Cause of Dog Skin Problems

    Skin problems are more prevalent in dogs due to the many allergens that them. Iain recommends using specially formulated foods designed to help reduce the itch/scratch cycle caused by many types of allergic skin disease. In cases of food allergy switching to the new diet exclusively can eliminate the allergic response in eight weeks.

    “Some of the signs to look for in your pet for a skin problem include reddened flaky itchy skin, overall poor coat quality, a smelly coat, gnawing, scratching and biting of the skin and possibly diarrhoea in certain cases.

    “It is highly recommended that you see your vet for a thorough clinical work up to determine the cause of your pet’s skin irritation and then implement a treatment process, which is likely to available cost effectively online at sites such as VetUK,” concludes Iain.

    Don’t let skin problems be the cause of misery for your dog. Speak to your vet and always ensure your dog is being provided with proper and appropriate nutrition.

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  • Stop Your Dog Getting Gum Disease

    Gum Disease in Dogs: A More Serious Problem Than First Glance Reveals

    Anyone who’s ever suffered with the stress and discomfort of toothache or problems with their gums will empathize with the poor dog who, after all, has only got his mouth as a means to pick things up, communicate, eat and even play – when all is not well with their teeth.

    Dog gum disease is not only a more serious health problem than many people are aware of it, the fact that it can quite easily be prevented in the first place means us dog owners should pay enough attention to what’s going on in our dog’s mouth to spot the signs and early symptoms of dog gum disease.

    Spotting The Signs of Gum Problems in Dogs

    Are Your Dog’s Gums Are Turning Very Pale In Color? Be Warned, It Could Be Serious…

    Dermatologists place a high value on paleness because the less sun you get, the lower your risk for skin cancer. Veterinarians, however, have always preferred the color pink – at least when they are looking at your pet’s gums. When the gums change from bubble-gum pink to pale, oxygen is probably in short supply, and there is an internal problem that needs to be taken care of.

    Healthy Dog Gums

    Pale gums usually mean that a pet doesn’t have enough red blood cells, a condition called anemia. Anemia is serious because red blood cells carry oxygen throughout the body. When there aren’t enough of them, oxygen levels fall, and pets get weak and tired.

    Parasites are one of the most common causes of anemia. Dogs and cats produce just enough red blood cells to stay healthy. When fleas, hookworms, or other blood-sucking parasites are drinking their fill, there may not be enough blood to go around. Pale gums may be a sign of internal bleeding, resulting from ulcers or even cancer. Internal bleeding that goes on long enough can also cause anemia.

    The light-colored gums can also be caused by a serious condition called autoimmune hemolytic anemia, in which the immune system mistakenly destroys red blood cells. This type of anemia may be hereditary, with cocker spaniels, Shetland sheepdogs, collies, English springer spaniels, Old English sheepdogs, Irish setters, and poodles having the highest risk.

    Finally, anemia may be a side effect of medications. Drugs such as estrogen, chloramphenicol (an antibiotic), and phenylbutazone (taken for pain) may inhibit the blood marrow from producing red blood cells. Dogs that are taking aspirin for pain will sometimes develop ulcers and internal bleeding.

    Pale gums don’t always mean that your pet has anemia. After a serious accident, for example, blood pressure can fall to dangerously low levels because the heart is so busy pumping blood to vital organs that it neglects more-distant regions like the gums, toes, or the tips of the ears. This drop in blood pressure and the resulting pale gums mean that a pet is going into shock and needs emergency care.

    Giving pets a balanced diet will help them recover from many forms of anemia. Your veterinarian specialist may recommend putting your pet on a prescription diet that is high in minerals, protein, and vitamins. Don’t give pets iron supplements without your veterinarian’s advice because they can be toxic.

    Even though anemia can be dangerous, it is usually not that difficult to restore the red blood cells to healthful levels. Pets that are plagued by fleas, for example, will often recover within three to four days once you get rid of the little pests. Since anemia can make pets very weak, however, it is a good idea to avoid flea dips, powders, or other strong medications.

    Bad Breath in Dogs: Could Gum Disease Be The Problem?

    If your dog has bad breath, it could signal the sign of disease. Have your dog checked by a veterinarian as bad breath can be the earliest – and most easy to detect – early warn sign of canine gum disease.

    Foul Breath, Plaque, & Gingivitis: All of these become more common in older dogs, especially if you have not taken care to keep your dog’s teeth clean throughout his life. Regular dental checkups may be necessary to ensure that any serious problems are quickly treated but by regularly brushing your dog’s teeth you can actively avoid problems in the first place.

    Bad Breath: Can it Actually KILL Your Dog?

    Freelance author R Drysdale has a sorry story to relate regarding the seriousness of keeping your dog’s teeth in tip top condition. He writes:

    I know that it’s important to cure bad breath in my dog when it occurs because I once lost a dog to periodontal disease, which often accompanies tartar buildup and foul breath in dogs. You see, tartar buildup on a dogs teeth fosters the growth of odor producing and potential harmful bacteria. If these bacteria become too numerous, and the gums become inflamed, bacteria can invade tissue, even travel to other parts of the body and set up abscesses and other types of infection there. The dog I lost had a deep jaw abscess that was basically untreatable. If you dog has foul smelling breath, deal with it now.

    Bad breath in dogs is more common in older pets because the tartar builds up over the course of a lifetime unless you have the dogs teeth cleaned regularly. Now, when I need to cure bad breath in my dog, I know what to do. the first step is a visit to the veterinarian to have the dog’s teeth examined. A veterinarian can assess the condition of the dog’s teeth and confirm that this is where the odor is coming from (it’s important to rule out other health problems that can cause an odor on the breath). Your veterinarian can also advise you as to what steps you should take, based on the degree of tartar and periodontal disease.

    I’ve found that it’s easier to prevent than to cure bad breath in my dog. The idea of brushing a dog’s teeth may seem ridiculous, but there are toothpastes on the market specifically designed for dogs and cats. they come in pleasant meaty flavors that the animals love – you can slowly train your dog to tolerate a daily brushing with an enzyme toothpaste formulated to dissolve tartar. dog owners who start this routine when the animal is quite young can often avoid bad breath in dogs altogether.

    Another way to fight tartar is to give a dog chew toys and bones to literally scrape the tartar off the teeth. Over the years, I’ve found that many of these aren’t very appealing to my pet and thus they don’t really work to cure bad breath in my dog, but recently, I discovered the “tartar buster.” It’s a more or less spherical piece of bone about 3 inches in diameter. My dog loves tartar busters and they work miraculously well to scrape off tartar and clear up bad breath in dogs; in fact, I avoided a costly veterinarian procedure by buying a couple of tartar busters. As with any bone, watch your dog to be sure it doesn’t swallow large chunks while chewing on a tartar buster.

    If all else fails, you veterinarian may recommend a cleaning under anesthetic to remove heavy tartar. This is expensive and it can be risky for older animals, but it is well worth it to avoid a serious and possibly life-threatening illness later on – bad breath in dogs is not just a cosmetic or social problem. After losing one faithful friend already, I’d be willing to go to considerable lengths to cure bad breath in my dog.

    Gingivitis in Dogs

    Gingivitis is inflammation of the gum causing them to become red and swollen, this condition is mostly caused by the buildup of plaque. Plaque is the result of when bacteria which is normally found in the mouth mixes with starches and proteins from the saliva, plaque is very gritty in nature and sticks to the teeth. This plaque later on tends to become tartar which accumulates near the gum line.

    If gingivitis is left untreated it can lead to tooth. So how do you know if your dog has gingivitis? Well, the most visible sign is the redness of the gums and the swelling. Thereafter you will need to take your dog to the vet who will carry out diagnostic tests in order to pin down exactly what’s happening. The vet may need to use some sort of sedation or anesthesia to carry out a thorough examination.

    Complete dental charting and periodontal probing will be carried out in order to gauge the amount of damage caused to the oral cavity based on which a suitable treatment will be suggested. A very similar method is used for human’s as well with the aid of a metal probe which is used examine the gums and the teeth.

    The vet may also opt to carry out a dye test in which a red coloured dye is placed on the teeth. The plaque then in turn sucks up the dye allowing the amount of plaque to be seen easily.

    Further tests may include a full blood count, serum biochemistry and urine analysis to gain a better understanding of the overall health of the dog especially if it is going to be sedated.

    X-rays are also vital in order to evaluate your dog’s teeth, also most of the tooth structure is below the gums so without an x-ray its impossible to completely diagnose Periodontitis. The X-rays will also help in discovering serious problems like tooth root abscesses. Further more, a biopsy may also be required in severe gingivitis cases.

    As a cure, ultrasonic scaling will be adopted which involves thorough cleaning above and below the gum line, and polishing the teeth will cure gingivitis and future occurrences.

    To stop gingivitis affecting your dog again you need to ensure that you brush your dog’s teeth every few days. Just as humans, dogs need their teeth brushed as well. Don’t use normal human tooth paste but rather you can buy special tooth paste for dog’s which is poultry or meat flavoured. Initially when you start brushing your dog’s teeth you may want to use a finger brush because your dog will not be used to having something go into his mouth in this manner, once your dog gets used to the idea of getting his teeth brushed then move on to a conventional brush because it’s only through the conventional brush that you can reach right at the back of the jaw.

    Apart from brushing your dog’s teeth you may want to introduce him to some chews or bones which are very effective in stopping plaque build up and can also aid in the exercise of jaw muscles.

    Pyorrhea in dogs – This is a more advanced stage of periodontal disease. Infection of the bone that leads to tooth lose and bad breath allowing disease and infection to spread to the rest your dog’s body eventually infecting every organ.

    Summary: Gum disease in dogs can not only make your dog’s life a misery, they can actually die from complications. Help your dog avoid gum disease by regular brushing, frequent vet checks and feeding them a healthy diet that’s good for their teeth and overall health. Canine gum disease is an overlooked yet potentially deadly dog health problem.

  • What Is Hyperkinesis in Dogs?

    What Is Hyperkinesis in Dogs?

    Hyperkinesis in dogs is rare. If you have a dog that appears to acting in what is common called a hyper-active way, the chances are it is NOT hyperkinesis. However, learning to understand more about this condition can help dog owners identify the signs and in this article we start out by looking at a case study where drugs were used as a treatment plan for hyperkinesis.

    You should always seek veterinary and/or professional dog training advice if you have concerns about your dog’s behavior or any sudden changes in their personality.

    Canine Hyperkinesis: A Case Study Of Drug Treatment

    The first controlled studies of hyperkinesis in dogs were an outgrowth of a long-term attempt to develop animal models of psychopathology.

    Dogs were chosen for these studies for several reasons, primarily because there were many carefully bred animals available. This allowed an evaluation of genetic strains in certain breeds. Also, dogs are the only domestic animal with a variety of emotional responses comparable to those seen in people: they worry about things not essential to their survival.

    In studies designed to evaluate responses to stress, some dogs did not respond to Pavlovian conditioning. Positive reinforcement, negative reinforcement and tranquilizers were all tried, but nothing worked.

    Typically such dogs would be eliminated from the study, but because the researchers were interested in the interaction of genetics and psychological environment, they were curious about dogs that appeared unwilling to be studied. Eventually the researcher decided they were dealing with the equivalent of a hyperkinetic children. On that basis, amphetamines were given, and the tentative diagnosis proved correct.

    The first model of hyperkinesis in a dog was Jackson, a Cocker-Beagle mix whose usual response to any approach was to snap, snarl, growl or, if possible, bite. Many experienced, gentle dog handlers were bitten, until eventually laboratory personnel refused to approach the dog. Jackson responded the same to other dogs. He viciously attacked any dog without hesitation, even friendly and docile animals. He refused to submit to Pavlovian conditioning, and destroyed laboratory equipment in his rages.

    Because depressants were not effective against Jackson’s abnormally hyperactive and vicious behavior, it was suspected that hyperkinesis may have been involved. On this assumption, the dog was given amphetamine orally. Within 2 hours, Jackson’s personality changed to complete docility. He whimpered as if he wanted to be petted. When petting was stopped, he begged for more. He became nonviolent, even submissive, toward the same dog he had attacked earlier. Jackson appeared to be perplexed and unsure of what to do.

    When placed in the Pavlovian experimental stand after medication, Jackson responded normally and learned rapidly, indicating that his previous failure was not a result of mental retardation, but rather a secondary effect of his behavior problem. After 6 weeks of drug-facilitated psychosocial therapy, medication could be withdrawn without reappearance of aggression, but hyperkinesis reappeared in low-threat situations. Aggression was apparently trained out by the drug-facilitated social interaction and conditioning experiments, indicating that what is learned under the influence of amphetamines is retained later.

    After 2 more months of psycho-social therapy using amphetamines, Jackson’s non-medicated hyperkinesis was also reduced. Because he was between 1 1/2 and 2 years old at the time of the experiments, maturation could have been associated with the cure; however, 6 older hyperkinetic dogs did not outgrow their abnormal behavior patterns.

    An Insight In to Hyperkinesis in Dogs

    Hyperkinesis is a disorder characterized by excessive activity, extreme restlessness, impulsivity, and a short attention span. In humans, especially children, it is now referred to as ADD, Attention Deficit Disorder. Veterinarians continue to use the term hyperkinesis. Hyperkinesis can affect a dog’s ability to learn new behaviors. Dogs so afflicted exhibit inattention, restlessness, and are easily distracted. The syndrome seems to be caused by both genetic and environmental factors.

    Most owners are not aware of the disease. The condition is quite rare in dogs, and when diagnosed by a veterinarian, medications, usually stimulants, can be prescribed to ameliorate the effects. Unfortunately, the popular use of the term to describe normal, but overly excited dogs, has clouded the issue for both owners and veterinarians. Dogs with extreme hyperkinesis that cannot have their symptoms improved with drug therapy, are often euthanized.

    Truly hyperkinetic dogs exhibit many of the following symptoms:

    Cannot be taught anything, even in obedience school
    Salivates constantly
    Always excited or nervous
    Cannot sit still, even for a minute
    Never becomes accustomed to everyday situations
    Chronically rapid heart rate

    The symptoms of hyperkinesis are usually exacerbated in dogs that are stressed by being kept in conditions of close confinement or short-leash tethering. Even with the clear presence of defining symptoms, it is difficult to treat the basic problem because there is often no clear reason, either physical or environmental, to explain the symptoms. Some truly hyperkinetic dogs do not respond to positive reinforcement, and tranquilizing drugs seem to have no positive effect. Truly hyperkinetic dogs can be vicious, and are known to bite owners and other dogs without provocation.

    Don’t be worried about your dog if she is simply hyperactive. This can be normal for some breeds, and is typical with new puppies who display enthusiasm for everything. Just a simple hello will have them running in circles. Some dogs are simply energetic and enjoy running, jumping, chewing, pulling, and barking. Their enthusiasm is one of the things that endear them too us.

    True hyperkinetic dogs seldom have a rest period. They exhibit abnormal frantic behavior, and continue it until they drop from exhaustion. Because the symptoms are also exhibited in simply overactive dogs, veterinarians will usually require a test trial with stimulants like amphetamines or Ritalin, which is often prescribed for children with ADD.

    If your dog is simply overactive, they can be retrained and managed with persistence and obedience training. Vigorous daily exercise will also help the overactive dog to expend energy.

    Resources:

    Nancy Cope
    K9 Magazine
    Vet Gazette

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  • How to Commission a Dog Portrait

    Wow, it’s a real tricky decision all right.

    You decide to commission someone to draw or paint your beloved pooch and woe betide the man or woman who takes up that assignment and….gets it wrong!

    We all know what our dogs look like. But there is that undoubted intangible factor of ‘capturing their personality’.

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    If you’re looking for a professional to draw or paint a portrait of your dog – or if you’re one of those kind hearted souls who’s decided to commission a piece of art as a gift for the dog lover in your life, you have a few options when it comes to selecting your artist.

    1. Take a look, if you can, at their portfolio of work.

    2. How does it make you feel?

    3. Would it take your breath away if you were the owner of the dogs depicted?

    4. Is there a distinct style, unique to the artist?

    5. Is the dog’s character captured on canvas?

    6. Are there any testimonials from happy customers? If not, would the artist be willing to supply some?

    7. Is the pricing within your budget.

    Choosing the artist for your dog’s portrait should be fun, memorable experience. Receiving the finished artwork can be an emotionally overwhelming experience – pick the right artist and you can ensure the emotion will be all for the RIGHT reasons!

  • What Is Pyorrhea in Dogs?

    A question from one of our readers leads to what is quite literally a bitesized dog tip: Which breeds tend to have the greatest incidence of pyorrhea (bone degeneration), leading to loss of teeth?

    The two breeds with the most frequent incidence of periodontal disease according to vet reports are the Dachshund and Schnauzer.

    The host resistance factor seems to be lower in these breeds.

    What Is Pyorrhea in Dogs?

    Pyorrhea is a purulent inflammation of the gums and tooth sockets, often leading to loosening of the teeth and is sometimes accompanied with puss and discharge.

    You should care for your dog’s teeth by regularly brushing and having your dog’s mouth checked at routine vet visits.

  • Is It Safe to Let Dogs Lick Your Face?

    Is It Safe to Let Dogs Lick Your Face?

    Rare is the dog owner who’s pet has never given them a canine kiss.

    Sloppy, wet dog kisses – it would seem – could hand in paw with the dog ownership experience. But can dogs pass on germs when they lick your face? One of the more commonly asked questions we get here at DogTips.co is whether dogs can pass on germs to humans, particularly by licking…

    Dogs use their long tongues for mopping up lunch crumbs, removing mud from their feet, and cleaning their privates. And yet, when they give our faces sloppy licks, there’s something endearing about it. Apart from occasional attempts to retrieve bits of glazed doughnut from our chins, dogs lick us because they like us. It isn’t a kiss, but it’s close.

    Almost as soon as they’re born, dogs experience the soft warmth of their mothers’ tongue, which bathes them with maternal affection. The licking never really stops after that. Mothers take advantage of their puppies’ relative immobility during nursing to lick them clean. They also lick their bottoms to jump-start their impulses to relieve themselves.

    Puppies do their share of licking too. They lick older dogs’ chins and faces to greet them and show respect. And when they’re hungry – and puppies are perpetually in search of something to eat – licking their mother will sometimes stimulate her to regurgitate a meal, which the puppies regard as an appetizing lunch.

    As dogs get older, they lick each other less often, but they never quit entirely. At the very least, in the absence of hands and hairbrushes, they do each other’s hair with their tongues.

    A Show Of Respect

    Dogs don’t lick people because they’re hoping for a hot meal. They lick because we’re their parents, or at least the head folks in the house. Even when dogs are old, gray, and grizzled, they see themselves in some ways as being our children, and a lick shows how much they respect us.

    You can tell a little bit about your dog’s personality by how much licking she does. Dogs who are very bold or independent are restrained with their licking because they don’t feel as though there is anyone they have to win over. Outgoing, sociable dogs, on the other hand, lick everyone all the time.

    We play a role in all this licking too. It doesn’t take dogs very long to learn that laying a wet one on the cheek is a great way to get cooed over and rubbed the right way. So in a way, the instinct to lick is both ancient and immediate; dogs do it naturally, and we en- courage them to do it more.

    People are never sure how to react to licks. The first emotion is generally “Aw, that’s cute,” closely followed by “Yuck.” Imagine where that tongue has been! But it’s not as unhygienic as it seems. At worst, dog licks are like wiping your face with a slightly dirty washcloth. Not exactly cleansing, but hardly worth worrying about. In fact, there’s some evidence that it may be good for you.

    So whilst a dog lick on the face might not be to everyone’s taste, judging by the millions and millions of dog owners who’ve received a dog lick to the chops, it’s not going to kill you (or your children!).

  • How to Clean Your Dog’s Ears

    A dog’s ears are one of the most inaccessible places on his body. You may notice if you have two or more dogs that they’ll take it in turns to clean each other’s ears.

    Nature has taught dogs that cooperation on this issue is a good thing, as infections that start in the ear and impede hearing and balance can lead to more severe problems, so the wild pack of dogs will find itself diminished and weakened if ears are left to collect dirt and grime.

    All manner of foreign bodies can make their way into your dog’s ear – from dirt and dust to seeds, gravel, pollen and even the odd small twig. Irritation to your dog’s ear, as you’ve no doubt witnessed first hand, can drive a dog to distraction. And as we all know, the vision of a dog attempting to clean out his own ear or relieve an ear based itch is not the picture of care and delicate dexterity. Quite often, this lack of a gentle touch can lead to cuts, muscle damage and infections – but what would you do if you had an irritated ear?

    This is why is the role of the conscientious dog owner to ensure that their dog’s ears are clean and free from any potential source of irritation.

    The first thing you need to do is to make sure that your dog is happy for you to touch his ears. This can be achieved most easily by starting off at a young age simply touching the ears and rewarding the dog’s calmness with a treat or reward. This process, if repeated often enough, will teach the dog that allowing his ears to be touched is a good thing.

    As the dog becomes more comfortable having his ears touched – and remember, they are sensitive – you should move on to small cleaning sessions. By lifting up the outer ear, you can gain access to the inner ear, which should be light pink in colour.

    Using a dry tissue, simply wipe away any dirt or muck that you see. Visually inspect the ear, even using a torch to get a view of what lies further inside. If the dog winces or flinches, stop the process and reassure him.

    Whilst it may be tempting, blowing into the ear in order to give a final clean, as we might do when cleaning a watch or CD player, don’t’ – this will alarm the dog and isn’t healthy for the ear.

    There are ear cleaning products available, as well as tools to perform a good ear clean. Most are unscented, but some do contain moisturisers. You should look for an ear cleaner that is PH balanced – but the best way to judge whether it is a suitable product is to monitor the results inside the ear. If there is visible irritation or an unpleasant smell, discontinue use. Quite often, a dry tissue is all that is needed to remove any dirt from the ear, but your vet will be able to advise.

    Spotting Problems

    Signs that your Dog May Have an Ear Problem Include

    Excessive head shaking

    Constant Scratching of the Ear

    Difficulty Getting Comfortable

    Visible irritation inside the ear such as inflammation or blood (usually the result of scratching)

    Unpleasant smell

    Ear problems in dogs are usually of the vicious cycle variety. A little dirt or dust finds its way in, causes irritation which leads to scratching, which leads to inflammation and possible infection, which leads to further infection.

    Keeping the inner ear clean and healthy is one of the best ways of warding off any ear discomfort or irritation. Excessive hair inside the ear can sometimes be a trap for dust and dirt, and in some cases it is necessary to remove any excess.

    Video: How to Clean Dog Ears (Veterinary Instruction)

    Keeping your dog’s ears clean and fresh will not only help them from a health perspective, the benefits extend to making your dog a much, much happier hound!

     

  • 3 Unusual Ways to Correct Aggression in Dogs

    Dog aggression, be it dog on dog aggression and especially dog aggression toward humans should ALWAYS be referred to a canine behaviour professional. Without exception. Here we present three less discussed techniques that may be worth discussing with your dog trainer as part of a tailored canine aggression correction programme.

    1. Have your dog’s teeth checked out.

    Ever heard the phrase ‘don’t mess with a tiger with toothache’? No? Perhaps I just made it up right now. Anyway, the point is, as anyone who’s ever had toothache will know, having dental problems can make even the mildest mannered person turn in to a raging, short tempered ticking time bomb. Have your dog’s teeth carefully examined by your vet.

    2. Neutering.

    Let’s make one thing clear. Neutering does NOT cure dog aggression. Behavioural therapy does.

    OK, worth repeating. Having your dog ‘fixed’ as a means to cure dog aggression is the equivalent of making a burglar have a haircut as a means to stop them breaking in to homes. Dog aggression is something to be tackled from a behavioural stand point.

    3. Understanding Dog Aggression.

    Possessive aggression is centred around a dog’s food, toys, treats, or any article that the dog may have stolen from you and this aggression should not be handled primarily with compulsion (negative reinforcement). It should be handled with positive conditioning.

    [scrollcheckpoint title=’Are You Being Lied To?’ direction=’right’]One of the biggest dog training myths has been exposed. If you are having problems with your dog, click here to read!

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    Then you have territorial aggression, fear aggression and there’s more besides. Learning to understand and recognise the motive for your dog’s aggression and to work with your dog trainer on providing the most appropriate remedial training is key.