Total Dog Magazine

Category: Magazine

  • I Want To Adopt A Dog

    There are many dogs out there that are, for several reasons, left without a home and end up being displaced at a shelter. If you are thinking about helping these homeless dogs but aren’t sure what to do, the best way to improve the lives of shelter dogs is to adopt one.

    I Want To Adopt A Dog

    Giving these dogs a good home is the most important thing that you can do. But if adopting a dog is just not an option right now, there are other things that you can do to better the lives of shelter dogs. Below are several suggestions to keep in mind.

    1. Visit your local shelter and spend some time with the dogs. Donating some of your time to simply hang out and play with these canine residents can make a huge difference to their lives. Most of the time, shelter staff are very busy with their work and they do not have the extra time to interact with the dogs. Shelter employees can always use the help of others to come and play and socialize with their residence. They are more than happy to show you around and figure out what you can do to help out.

    As a volunteer, you can take the dogs for a walk around the block, give them a little pampering by brushing their coats, or just be there and hang out with them. Shelter dogs get very little attention, and a short visit with them does a lot to improve their well-being.

    2. You may volunteer to take these dogs to an obedience class that will better their chances for an adoption.

    3. Take one day of the week to help wash and groom the dogs and then bring them to adoption fairs.

    4. Sponsor a fund raising party and donate the cash to your local rescue organisation. You may also ask for donations of items that you can bring to the shelter. These include blankets, food and treats, collars, leashes, toys, kennels, etc.

    5. You may also volunteer to be a foster parent and keep the rescued dog at your house until he or she finds a permanent home.

    6. Inform people about dog adoption and being a shelter volunteer by placing an ad in your local paper or putting up signs on bulletin boards and at dog parks.

    7. And last but not the least, keep in mind that the best way to prevent shelter overcrowding is to spay or neuter your pets and to spread the word about the benefits of getting these house pets fixed.

    Find out more about dog adoption.

  • How To Stop Puppy Chewing

    The sense of taste is well developed even in newborn pups. This has led to the marketing of several commercial substances designed to prevent destructive chewing by pups and mature dogs. If these are used regularly from the age at which conditioned responses are possible (3 weeks), investigative chewing may be minimised or prevented in later life, especially when teething becomes a stimulus for the problem.

    What Age Do Puppies Stop Teething?

    Puppies all vary by breed and individual personality types, but as a general rule puppies stop teething once their adult teeth start to come through. This means you will have a short period in the puppy’s early life when they will seemingly want to chew everything as a result of their teething pains.

    However, because the breeder would have to begin this type of regimen, and because most litters are raised under conditions that do not expose puppies to chewing taboos, correction is usually necessary.

    Almost every owner recognizes that pups need to chew, if only to teethe properly. On the other hand, few appreciate that a dog’s mouth is somewhat similar to the human hand as an investigative tool, or that the healthy development of nervous and muscle tissue depends on hearty chewing exercise. The usual procedure is to give a pup numerous chewables, hoping these will be so attractive that electric cords, rugs, clothing and shoes will be saved from destruction – and the pet spared a possibly serious (or fatal) injury. However, furnishing many different kinds of things to chew may lead the pup to believe that everything is chewable.

    Chewing appears to be an enjoyable experience for nearly all pups and many older dogs. So, the element of fun may also be part of chewing problems. The best approach to destructive chewing involves prevention and then guidance to chewable articles, such as a ball or bone. This helps the pup to discriminate between toys and inappropriate items. Practices that risk creating an orally oriented puppy include: playing tug-of-war, allowing personal belongings (socks, shoes) to be chewed, excessive attention to pup’s mouth during teething, and punishment for chewing taboos.

    Some pups are more oral than others. When this is coupled with an excitable or extremely inhibited nervous type, minor stress produces tension that tends to be released orally (rather than vocally or physically). Some of the causes for excessive tension in pups are: emotional departures and homecomings by the owner, excessive attention to the pup, social isolation, barrier frustration, delay of feeding, and boredom.

    When 2 or more pups live together, chewing may result from competition for articles. Also, pups play games. When these involve articles of some value, the owner often attributes such chewing to spite or revenge. “Sparky’s mad at me for leaving him alone, and he’s getting even.” This is seldom the case. Usually one or more of the aforementioned conditions are involved. As diligently as one might try to be a model puppy owner, it is obvious that few people can avoid all of the causes for chewing.

  • Happy Dog’s Ostrich Meat Food Helps To Aid Projects In Rwanda

    Happy Dog, Germany’s leading and largest dried premium dog food manufacturer, in keeping with its philosophies, has recently introduced to the UK, as part of its on going programme of providing premium quality products to a discerning market, a new innovative product for dogs with sensitive digestive systems – AFRICA .

    AFRICA is one of Happy Dog’s Halo Brands, inspired by the cuisine of different countries around the world, Happy Dog’s Supreme Sensible Nutrition range not only provides wholesome and tasty food for dogs but it also provides specific solutions for feeding demanding and sensitive dogs, Lovingly prepared and developed by vets in Happy Dog’s factory in Bavaria, this range is even tastier and more easily digestible than many other foods on the market. The food is suitable for fully-grown dogs of all breeds and contains ingredients that reflect regional cuisine.

    Happy Dog’s AFRICA contains ostrich meat and is suitable for dogs with food intolerances. There is only one animal protein source in the food and it contains no cereals and only uses gluten-free potatoes so is ideal for dogs with cereal allergies and intolerances..

    Ostrich meat is becoming increasingly important for feeding dogs with demanding nutritional requirements. The meat is characterised by its special dark red colour and easy digestibility.

    The food is available in a medium kibble size, in a range of bag sizes, 300g, 1 kg, 4 kg and 12.5 kg and in small kibble in the ‘My Little Range’ in bags of 700g and 2.5Kg.

    Happy Dog is reknowned worldwide for its innovative approach to dog nutrition and continues to develop premium quality products to a discerning market and a further new ‘Halo brand product’ is planned to be launched at Crufts 2012. Further information on this new product will be released in the next few months.

    Buying Happy Dog’s AFRICA will help to fund projects in Rwanda

    The smallest country in Africa, Rwanda, is one of the poorest countries in the world. Over 60% of the population lives below the poverty line. The rate of adult illiteracy is 35%. Happy Dog donates 1.30 euro from every 12.5 kg Africa-pack sold (0.50 euro for 4 kg, 0.14 euro for 1 kg) to the SOS-Hermann-Gmeiner school and the SOS-vocational training centre in Kigali, the country’s capital. This gives young people a start in a self-determined life.

    For further information on any of the Happy Dog ranges, email: info@happydoguk.com or visit the website: www.happydoguk.com

  • Dog Arthritis: What To Expect If Your Dog Has Been Diagnosed

    Dogs can develop arthritis at any age, although generally it’s assumed if your dog is older, it’s more likely to develop through wear and tear over the years. Canine osteoarthritis can be extremely painful and can cause a lot of distress for some dogs.

    Symptoms such as limping and struggling to get up from a lying down position, or reluctance to walk up stairs can be signs.

    Although you may not think it, regular light exercise, such as short walks, rather than longer walks can be a good way to help your dog if it suffers from arthritis. If your dog does little to no exercise, then the joints will only worsen and stiffen up more. By encouraging your dog to do regular movements and stretches, as shown in the video below courtesy of www.awalkinthepark.co.uk, it will help the natural release of lubricating fluids in the joints which in turn will help with their flexibility.

    Expert Tails Case Study from Jane Alexander

    Jane is the proud owner of Oak, a female Flatcoat Retriever, who is now nearly 13 years old.  Oak has suffered from canine osteoarthritis for 5 years and has a very stiff left shoulder because of the condition.

    Being a professional vet, Jane was 99{d4f4ff813a06e2c77cbb9c6effe011ebffe2f8986e44983e90e08c54deb62f63} sure it was osteoarthritis, but because Flat-coated Retrievers also have a tendency to develop cancer, she did not immediately rule out other sicknesses.  After a complete examination, Jane confirmed Oak’s osteoarthritis and knew they needed to look for a suitable treatment that would allow Oak the same full and active lifestyle that she was used to.

    Jane noticed that Oak wasn’t able to keep up with her other younger dogs and wasn’t jumping and moving as freely and quickly as she used to which was difficult to see. However since Jane has started to manage Oak’s osteoarthritis, she has continued to run freely.

    Most dogs that have canine osteoarthritis can live a relatively pain free life when teaming treatments with a complete care program. Always consult your vet before trying new medications and remedies.

    Article Brought To You By Canine Arthritis Awareness Month

  • 5 Most Common Dog Ear Problems

    5 Most Common Dog Ear Problems

    Our dogs ears are prone to a variety of unpleasant problems. Whether it’s ear infections, debris, ear mites or damage caused by external sources. Here we outline the 5 most common dog ear problems so you know what to look out for when caring for your dog’s health…

    The following are the top 5 common dog ear problems.

    Allergies

    An allergy is often caused by environmental irritants like dust or pollen. Or it caused by food ingredients. Symptoms of an allergy can be itchiness, inflamed ears, and paws. Feeding your dog with food low in allergen will help in preventing allergies. Low-allergen foods do not contain soy, corn, and wheat. Keeping the environment free from dust would be beneficial too. Consult a veterinarian if your dog happens to experience chronic ear infections, as they are experts in determining the cause of the recurring problem.

    Ear Infections

    Dog ear infections are commonly caused by ear mites, hygiene problems, obscene or warm environment, bacterial infections, and food allergies. Floppy-eared dogs are more likely to experience ear infections and can be a recurring problem. A warm and moist atmosphere caused by the ear flaps would be an ideal place for yeast and bacterial growth. A dog with an ear infection may experience noticeable ear wax discharges. It looks rusty or yellow ear discharges which has an unpleasant odor.

    Debris in ears

    Dogs’ ear debris must be removed regularly as part of hygiene. Common debris inside a dog’s ear can be foxtails, plant awns, and others. It is advisable to inspect the inner area of the dog’s ear for any possible debris. A regular ear cleaning would be necessary for debris prevention. Debris in a dog’s ear can be bothering and may lead to ear infection.

    Parasites

    Parasites like to live on your dog’s hair, skin, and even inside their ears. Many of dogs’ diseases are caused by dog parasites. Fleas, ticks, and mites suck your dog’s blood which affects their health. If a dog is constantly itching or scratching and experiencing hair loss, it is possible that there are parasites living on the dog’s body. It must be treated as soon as possible before it leads to a serious problem.

    Trauma

    It is commonly called dog ear hematoma. It is a type of ear injury that causes swelling. An ear hematoma can be unbearable for a dog. This serious ear problem can be treated through a surgery; however, if it is untreated it can lead to disfigurement of dog’s ear and nearby areas.

    For more information on how to care for your dog’s ears, we recommend you take a look here: Ear problems in dogs.

  • Bringing Your New Puppy Home

    The fun of bringing a new puppy home and introducing him to his new family is a very special experience. He will, of course, become a well-mannered dog, staying quietly at our side, eager to follow our every command. Well, it is a long road from the cuddly puppy to the mature dog, but with some effort and understanding it can be travelled successfully. It all begins with day one in the new home.

    The first few days a puppy is in his new home can be trying for both the puppy and the new owner because both are trying to adjust to a new situation. After all, the puppy finds he has been suddenly taken from his den and litter mates and is expected to immediately accept a new, foreign way of life. However, with patience and a sense of humour on the part of the new owner, the first few days can be accomplished with good feelings on both sides.

    Breeders and behaviourists generally agree that seven weeks of age (forty-nine days) is the ideal age for a puppy to go to his new home, with six to eight weeks being the most desirable age range. The six- to eight-week old puppy still needs a lot of rest and will take morning and afternoon naps. For the first day or two, however, he might be very excited and spend much of the day in motion, checking out his new home. As long as he is not hurting himself or anything else in the environment, let him investigate wherever and whatever takes his fancy.

    If the puppy is eight weeks old when he first comes home, be very patient with him. This is the fear period and sharp noises or harsh treatment will leave him with fear which may take months to overcome. Let him take his time getting acquainted with everything and do not take him to places where he will be subjected to loud and frightening sounds or activities. If possible, trips to the veterinarian should be arranged either before or after the eighth week.

    This Article Has Been Brought To You This Month By

    If the puppy is ten to twelve weeks old when you first bring him home, he will be more rambunctious, especially if he is one of the larger breeds, and he will sleep considerably less during the day. However, he is at an age where you can get his attention quite easily and where he will want to please you and stay close to you.

    Common natural behaviours you will experience include:

    – Howling
    – Nipping / mouthing
    – Crying
    – Soiling indoors
    – Chewing

    Believe it or not, many new owners panic when their pup starts to display one or all of these behaviours. In fact, some owners get so spooked, they convince themselves they have acquired a ‘naughty’ dog and may even return it to the breeder. Relax. All of these things are normal and expected. Puppies play, the mouth, they whine, they howl, they chew. In the early days it’s simply a case of managing and minimising the risks.

    You can cure your puppy biting (www.puppybiting.co.uk).
    You can cure your puppy’s howling (www.dogadvice.co.uk)
    You can housetrain your puppy very easily (www.k9magazine.com)
    You can stop your puppy chewing (www.dogtips.co)

    Enjoy your puppy, don’t stress and be prepared to spend some time digesting high quality advice and information on how to shape their behaviours.

    Don’t forget, you’ll get even more peace of mind by insuring your pup with a reputable provider – so tick that job off as early as possible.

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  • I Found Blood In My Dog’s Urine, What Does it Mean?

    I Found Blood In My Dog’s Urine, What Does it Mean?

    To find blood in your dog’s urine can be alarming. In reality, so it should be. Blood in the urine is an early warning system that, without exception, should prompt you to take your dog to the vet for tests.

    In this guide we’ll explain what some of the potential problems blood in the urine can be an indicator of.

    • Urinary Tract Infection or UTI – These are the effects related to urinary tract infection in the dog. When a urinary tract infection already exists, it can get worse because it spreads to different areas of your dog’s urinary system. The infection can spread and can cause inflammation to the dog’s kidneys, bladder, prostate, and urethra.

    • Bladder Infections or Bladder Stones.

    • Kidney Stones. This is caused by the minerals and crystal increase which affects the dog’s urethra.

    • Urinary Tract Tumours. A urinary tumour can cause blood discharges through the urine.

    • Swallowing Toxic or Poisonous Materials. Blood in the dog’s urine can be caused by poisoning. Chemicals found in insects and rodent’s poisons are a few known causes of such poisoning.

    • Internal Bleeding.

    • External Injury or Trauma. A dog that has suffered a physical injury can be affected by trauma. Trauma can very be often almost unnoticeable to the eye. If your dog is suffering with trauma, though physically well to the naked eye, blood in the dog’s urine can be an indicator that all is not well.

    • Diseases transmitted from Ticks. Babesiosis, Lyme, and other diseases causes by ticks can result in bloody urine in your dog.

    • Prostate Gland Infection. This infection only exists in male dogs. Frequent or difficulty in urinating or pain when urinating are some of the known symptoms.

    • Uterine Infection. This infection commonly happens in female dogs. If your female dog’s urine is mixed with blood, she may have a uterine infection. It can also exist when your dog is currently on her heat cycle or if the dog has recently given birth.

    Physical examination of your dog’s stomach and kidney’s health history are the primary steps your vet will undertake when diagnosing the problem. A urine test is also essential in identifying if your dog’s kidney and bladder are working properly.

    If you suspect that your dog has kidney stones, it needs to be treated as soon as possible.

    Other diagnostic tests such x-rays and ultrasound may be carried out by the vet when checking the health of your dog’s urinary system.

    Possible Treatments

    Antibiotics – Kidney stones and urinary tract infections in dogs can be treated with antibiotics.

    Surgical Operation – Performing surgery is generally the last option in most situations, but blood in the urine is often serious enough that surgical intervention may be required if the condition your dog is suffering with has progressed.

    In all cases, should you spot blood in your dog’s urine you must get him or her examined by a vet as soon as possible.

  • Why Is Puppy Socialization So Important?

    Puppy socialization is so important, it’s worth saying twice. A failure to properly socialize young puppies is one of the single biggest reasons for bad dog behavior in adult dogs. Behavior such as aggression (dog on dog), disobedience and general bad manners around other dogs, particularly in public. The long term benefits of a high quality puppy socialization plan simply can’t be stressed enough. You can’t wind the clock back after all.

    puppy socialization

    Puppy Socialization Can Start Early

    Proper early socialization of your puppy can have the positive lasting impact over the course of your dog’s life. It really is THAT crucial.

    Socializing your puppy is such a critical part of raising a well adjusted dog. Through early puppy socialization, your young dog can learn to fit into society, learn to live with humans and also with other dogs. This leads to a calm, adaptable dog who isn’t fazed by what they encounter in day to day life.

    If dogs are not correctly socialized, they may develop inappropriate behaviors when exposed to new situations or new dogs and people. This can include being overly aggressive or fearful in unfamiliar circumstances. Puppy socialization can help your pup adjust to the world around them at an early age.

    When Does Puppy Socialization Begin?

    Socializing starts when a puppy is still with its mother and with the breeder. A puppy first learns canine body language and pack structure from around three to four weeks of age, while playing and interacting with its litter mates. It is important that a breeder handles her puppies and plays with them regularly, to give them positive early experiences with people.

    The ideal time to bring your new puppy home is when he is eight weeks old. The period from eight to twelve weeks of age is very important for socialization, as your pup is very open to learning and enjoying new experiences. It is vital to take advantage of this stage of your puppy’s social development.

    Quick puppy socialization tip: It’s a good idea to invite friends and families to your house to visit, bringing with them their well behaved dog. You can also introduce your puppy to calm, well-mannered children. This type of puppy socialization strategy can allow your pup to learn in a relaxed, informal way.

    Puppy Socialization Classes

    Puppy preschool is also very important for your young dog. It allows puppies to meet and interact with other dogs of a similar age and level of development, as well as learning some basic obedience commands.

    This improves the communication skills of your puppy, as well as enhances the bond between dog and owner. It also allows your dog to sniff and explore in a safe and supportive environment.

    Other options for socializing your dog can include going to dog friendly places such as off-leash parks and beaches. It is vital to make sure that your puppy is up to date on its vaccinations, as there may be an increased risk of disease in these places. Also, you need to remember that the other dogs which are there may not necessarily be under complete control.

    There may even be under-socialized dogs who may frighten your puppy and set it back in its learning. It may even be better to keep your puppy away from these areas until he is more mature and better able to cope.

    It takes a lot of work and effort to socialize a puppy well, but it is an investment in his future, and will help him to fit into his world. Doing a good job will lead to a well adjusted and happy companion who can take anything in his stride.

    What’s The Most Important Word to Teach Your New Puppy?

    The most important word you can teach your puppy is his name. Getting him to recognize and respond positively to his name can really help during the socialization process.  Use your pup’s name in a positive context 100{d4f4ff813a06e2c77cbb9c6effe011ebffe2f8986e44983e90e08c54deb62f63} of the time. Don’t scold them using their name, use the word “No!” instead. Their name should evoke a positive response.

    The capacity to learn is born in every puppy, to a greater or lesser degree. Your puppy starts learning the moment he enters your house. (He starts learning about you and soon picks up on all your varying idiosyncrasies – whether you realize you have them or not, mark my words – your puppy will!). His capacity to learn grows as he does and is fully developed at the age of about a year. Although he’ll stop physically growing, he never stops learning and the early puppy socialization steps you take from day one can act as the building blocks to having the most well mannered, well behaved dog over the lifetime of your pet.

    Puppy Socialization Experiences From Owners

    How are other dog owners socializing their puppies?

    A question from a puppy owner on the best methods for deploying a puppy socialization strategy that works, elicited some excellent advice:

    Get the pup as much exposure to as many different things as possible (without scaring it )

    Elsie is just coming up to 16 weeks now.

    As a rough guide, she has been coming out with us (carried until she could go down) from 8 weeks old to shops especially garden centres and pet stores which are great for meeting people and seeing different things. She has met horses, cows, dogs, cats, alpacas, sheep, pigs, ducks, geese, chickens and been exposed to cars, lorries, buses, motor cycles, pedal cycles, boats, chainsaws, tractors, JCBs, pony & trap, carriage and four, . . the list is endless.

    However she is now, at 16 weeks happy and content in more or less any situation she finds herself in.

    She has also learnt to recall (instantly – but I know we will need to keep working on that to keep her focussed as she grows) she sits and waits for her dinner and also will sit when asked now.

    Interesting Puppy Socialization Disease Query:

    What are the risks of puppy infections vs reward for early socialization?

    Today I visited a dog training establishment to observe some puppy socialisation. When I said that it would be another 3 weeks before my puppy was fully protected from her jabs she suggested that, in her opinion, the benefits of early puppy socialisation outweighed the risk of picking up an infection.

    I make an assumption that the puppies attending will all have been inoculated (you don’t spend money for socialisation and training and not do basic health care), but the field is used for lots of dog work. At my vets there is a sign saying puppies that haven’t completed their jabs should not be allowed down on the floor for risk of infection.

    Any comments/feedback appreciated.

    BTW it was really nice to see loads of pups out having fun together…the younger/less sure pups were kept seperate from the older more boisterous one’s.

    —
    A great question. Answered succinctly…

    More dogs are put to sleep due to behavioral problems than all other illnesses put together.

    To me it is a no brainer IF the environment is safe. My dogs come home at 7 weeks go on the ground immediately and do not have their first vaccination for a couple of weeks.

    None have contracted any diseases.

    Puppy Socialization Checklist: To achieve the best early puppy socialization results, be prepared to let your puppy get exposure to many new things, new people, new dogs. Be patient but be focussed on the fact that you can’t rewind the clock. Puppy socialization is absolutely crucial for the long term benefit of you and your dog.

     

  • Dog Urine Killing Lawn?

    Dog urine killing lawn? Now, that’s a problem many a dog owner has faced and it causes frustration and annoyance that on the one hand we want our dogs to enjoy our garden, on the other, WE want to enjoy our garden as well!

    Our well kept lawn is now looking more like a patchwork of green and brown circles because our beloved dog has seen fit to create their own little patterns.

    Of course, it’s really not their fault. I’m positive if your dog knew how, he’d process his internal chemicals to such an extent that instead of killing our lawn, his toilet trips were able to grow us a beautiful little flower to remind us just why we love him so much!

    In reality, dog owners with ‘doggy patches’ all over their grass is a problem we can solve with just a few simple steps.

    How to Stop Dog Urine Killing Your Lawn

    Bev McDonald offers her insight in to how she tackled this common canine problem….

    It never fails, my two dogs – both lovable and protective Rottweilers – seem to enjoy urinating in the same spot of the backyard, day in, day out. Whether it’s morning, noon or night, it’s down the steps and to the right, donating copious amounts of healthy, adult dog urine in an approximate 4-square-foot area.

    The result is a large patch of brown, ugly, burned-out lawn that surrounds the bottom step of the deck. For my nicely landscaped backyard, the large urine burns are rather unsightly.

    I realized that unless some serious changes are made (and getting rid of the dogs was NOT an option), then these spots were not going to go away on their own, so I had to start my research and will not share with you what I learned to keep my grass green and my dogs happy and to try and prevent dog urine killing my lawn.

    Why Dog Urine Turns Grass Brown

    It’s no secret that urine burns grass, as well as many types of shrubs, annual flowers and perennial plants. What causes the burn is nitrogen. When a dog eats a meal, the protein in the food is metabolized. A byproduct of metabolized protein is nitrogen.

    The kidneys are responsible for the collection and secretion of many of the body’s unwanted excesses, including byproducts of metabolized foods, such as nitrogen. So, if all is going well with the dog’s bodily functions then excess nitrogen will be flushed out of the dog’s body through his urine.

    Here is where things get a bit tricky: Those who work with lawns and plants know that nitrogen is used as fertilizer. So what’s so special about the nitrogen in dog urine that causes it to kill everything green it touches? The secret is in the solution, so to speak.

    With fertilizers containing nitrogen, a small amount goes a long way. If you’re using a rotary spreader (which is used to fertilize the lawn), spilling a pile of fertilizer in one spot would be similar to a pool of urine. The concentration would be too high and would kill the grass below.

    Once grass is dead from nitrogen burn there’s not much you can do to revive it. If you want healthy green grass, you’re going to have to replant this area. You’ll need to rake up the dead grass and plant new seed.

    Replanting dead areas, however, is somewhat of a “band-aid” approach. If you don’t get to the root of the problem (dog urine), you’re likely to wind up with more dead patches of grass all over the lawn.

    So, without further ado here’s my top tip to stop dog urine destroying your lawn…

    put a small blob of tomato ketchup in their food every day and watch what happens.

    Sounds simple, yes? It is! Try it and observe.

    So if you’re having similar problems with dog urine killing your lawn, now you have a workable solution that you can implement very easily.

  • How To Dog Proof Your Home

    Straying, dog theft and other disasters can really cause untold emotional damage to the unfortunate dog owners who have to experience the aftermath of a dog going missing. In this comprehensive guide, courtesy of our friends at K9 Magazine, we give you some simple, easy to implement instructions on how you can make your home more secure and, as close as possible, dog proof.

    When was the last time your heard a burglar alarm and immediately dropped what you were doing to call the police? More often than not, the shrill, incessant droning of a burglar alarm is the result of somebody forgetting to let the cat out, a large insect disturbing the sensor or simply a power cut. Very rarely are intruders apprehended on the presence of an alarm sounding, so those of us who wish to add an extra element of security to our homes need to think past the burglar alarm systems of old.

    For many of us, our dog constitutes a significant part of what we consider to be our house hold security, but if it is our dog that appears on the shopping list of a burglar the ‘beware of the dog’ sign will only serve as confirmation that the goods are inside. A dog being stolen to order is becoming more common, especially where rare pedigrees are concerned. This does not mean we all need to shell out thousands on hi-tech intruder systems and James Bond style gadgets. Any police officer will tell you that your common sense is your best weapon against crime.

    We also need to be aware that dogs don’t need to be in the garden to be tempted by an escape. A front door left open for a couple of seconds could be enough time for a bored dog to nip out in search of some fun only to get lost or worse, hit by a car.

    Effective home security relies on common sense more than anything. Are points of entry such as doors, windows and skylights blatant adverts to burglars that your home could easy pickings? The most common point of entry in instances of breaking and entering is a ground floor window, at the rear of a property.

    Secure Windows

    Double glazing is an obvious security enhancement, but there is usually one window that provides the weak spot. Does your downstairs toilet have double glazing, or does it have that frosted glass that obscures the view inside? If it does, that is where your burglar will try to get in first. Nine out of ten double glazed windows are as useful as no double glazed windows from a security point of view.

    If a window can’t be easily smashed, it can often be levered or ‘jimmied’ open. John Davies of Everglaze explained why their windows offer an extra element of security. “In independent tests, PVCu used in windows and doors has proven to be the most resistant of materials against break ins. This coupled with state of the art locking systems mean that you can have peace of mind as well as beautiful windows.”

    Doors

    Doors to the rear of your property are also commons means of break ins. Doors with glass panelling are the most popular for thieves, whereas doors with ‘yield’ locks are the biggest deterrent according to Home Office figures. Janette Taylor of Kershaw’s Door Warehouse explained how to pick a secure door for keeping dogs in and thieves out. “A solid timber fire door is the most secure door you can get aside from the steel ones you see on army bases and in prisons.

    The solid timber doors are not that attractive though, but we work by the rule that the door with the least amount of panels is the most secure, a solid timber fire door is one piece of wood, so it has no weak spots. If you want something a little more pleasing to the eye but still relatively tough and resistant, go for a four panel door with mortice and tennon joints.

    These are normal looking doors with reinforced joints at the hinge and handle. As far as keeping dogs inside you could go for a concealed door closer. The tension of the springs governs the time it takes for the door to close, but you are really better off making sure your dog is safely inside before you open the door, some of those door closers snap shut very quickly”

    General Household Security

    Dogs have been known to escape through ground and first floor windows. There are sophisticated locking systems available that allow a window to be partially open and locked at the same time, if you wish to allow in some air whilst ensuring the window will not be nudged open.

    Elaborate camera and panic systems are effective in identifying intruders and alerting the police, but they very rarely ensure your stolen goods are returned. Whilst being effective in improving the percentage of burglars being caught, once your home has been breached any security measures you have taken become redundant.

    Top Home Security Tips for Dog Owners:

    Make your house unappealing to intruders by keeping it well lit.

    Make entry difficult by having solid or at least near solid doors.

    Ensure all ground floor windows are double glazed, or at least have modern locking systems in place.

    Don’t leave tools for a burglar in a place where they are visible. Ladders, house bricks and even skipping ropes have been used to break into houses.

    All of the above are useless if you don’t use your common sense.
    Lock doors, close windows and ensure your house does not become a soft target.

    Dog Proof Your Garden

    One thing that strikes fear into any dog owner is the thought that their dog may escape from the garden. This is why dog owners take certain precautions such as locking the gate, accompanying their dog when he is in the garden and in some cases actually keeping the dog on lead whilst he goes for a quick stretch outside. There are obvious risks and easily imagined worst case scenarios every time your dog scratches at the back to door to be let out.

    With some careful planning and a little elbow grease, your garden can be escape proof and more importantly it can be intruder proof. The last thing you want to do is spend money ensuring your dog stays on the right side of the fence, only for someone to hop over and steal him.

    Your garden need not like a fortress either. Stylish and attractive features can be made out of the most practical and functional elements of a garden. Ensuring that your garden combines security with style and aesthetics is not an easy combination, but it is possible.

    There are three main areas that provide security within your garden, the perimeter (fences and walls), the landscape (the layout, position of trees, ponds and other features) and the lighting (Deliberate lighting such as motion activated security lights as well as strategic positioning of trees and walls to allow for more light). Each of these three areas provide focal points for any garden, adding character and charm as well as serving a practical function.

    The Perimeter

    A determined dog can dig under a fence or even negotiate his way over one. Since an overly tall fence may look displaced in some gardens, consider making access to the fence less tempting to a dog. Water features such as ponds and waterfalls can prevent a dog getting sufficient access to a fence to facilitate an escape. Bushes and shrubs can perform a similar function whilst being cheaper and providing colour.

    If you want to keep your dog away from certain parts of the garden, a fence with weld wood panels (From £92.25 for 1.2 metres) is a good option. Louise Tomlin of Jacksons Fine Fencing explained “The weld-wood panel fences are an excellent idea for dog fencing. They don’t make your garden look like an industrial site and are a great plant support providing an easy surface for climbers to grow”

    It imperative for the secure garden that the fence goes far enough into the earth to prevent a dog from digging out.

    The Landscape

    Restricting a dog’s access to points of exit is key to achieving a secure garden. A well positioned pond or rockery can be more effective than an imposing fence or wall. Combined with an effective wall they can be doubly effective. The trick is to think like a dog. How would your dog try to escape? A rockery elevating a dog half way up a fence can do more harm than good in preventing an escape, and can also allow for ease of access for any would be intruder.

    Tall trees provide an extra element to your perimeter. But they also reduce the amount of light getting into your garden. A dark, concealed fence is an ideal entry point for an intruder, whereas a pond positioned underneath the lowest point of any fence or wall provides an extra obstacle for any intruder or potential escapee.

    The Lighting

    Lighting is a key element to the security of both house and home. Placing motion detecting lights strategically around your garden (the cost of which obviously depends on the size of your garden) can ensure that any intruders are deprived of the cover of darkness. Lighting does little to prevent a determined intruder, but it is often used as a deterrent to the opportunist.

    Clever lighting adds style and beauty to any garden. Consider placing upwards pointing spot lamps underneath a tree or in a border. Make your garden look twice the size by arranging your lighting in the corners of your garden or at any elevated points such as a rockery or raised decking.

    —
    You can get more helpful (potentially life saving) tips, advice and resources like this by joining the thousands of grateful dog lovers with a K9 Magazine Premier Membership.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jTrtOGdJ7Q

  • How to Commission a Dog Portrait

    Wow, it’s a real tricky decision all right.

    You decide to commission someone to draw or paint your beloved pooch and woe betide the man or woman who takes up that assignment and….gets it wrong!

    We all know what our dogs look like. But there is that undoubted intangible factor of ‘capturing their personality’.

    [sws_toggle1 title=”Capture Your Dog’s Personality Forever – CLICK HERE”] Ever thought about protecting your pet’s memory for eternity by way of a beautiful pet portrait?

    Then check out…. Pet Portraits by James Arguile

    Beautiful drawings and paintings made from photographs, by artist with over ten years’ experience.

    Ideal for a special gift: why not commission a unique portrait today?

    * A4: £50 (Extra portraits within same sheet of paper: £20 extra per head)

    * A3: £70 (£30 per extra)

    * A2: £150 – £200 (£50 per extra)

    Contact Me at jamesarguile@googlemail.com with any requirements and once your portrait is agreed, I will start work.

    I also create custom family portraits.

    You can telephone me on: (UK) 07816 124094

    James Arguile Pet Portraits

    [/sws_toggle1]

    If you’re looking for a professional to draw or paint a portrait of your dog – or if you’re one of those kind hearted souls who’s decided to commission a piece of art as a gift for the dog lover in your life, you have a few options when it comes to selecting your artist.

    1. Take a look, if you can, at their portfolio of work.

    2. How does it make you feel?

    3. Would it take your breath away if you were the owner of the dogs depicted?

    4. Is there a distinct style, unique to the artist?

    5. Is the dog’s character captured on canvas?

    6. Are there any testimonials from happy customers? If not, would the artist be willing to supply some?

    7. Is the pricing within your budget.

    Choosing the artist for your dog’s portrait should be fun, memorable experience. Receiving the finished artwork can be an emotionally overwhelming experience – pick the right artist and you can ensure the emotion will be all for the RIGHT reasons!

  • Is It Safe to Let Dogs Lick Your Face?

    Is It Safe to Let Dogs Lick Your Face?

    Rare is the dog owner who’s pet has never given them a canine kiss.

    Sloppy, wet dog kisses – it would seem – could hand in paw with the dog ownership experience. But can dogs pass on germs when they lick your face? One of the more commonly asked questions we get here at DogTips.co is whether dogs can pass on germs to humans, particularly by licking…

    Dogs use their long tongues for mopping up lunch crumbs, removing mud from their feet, and cleaning their privates. And yet, when they give our faces sloppy licks, there’s something endearing about it. Apart from occasional attempts to retrieve bits of glazed doughnut from our chins, dogs lick us because they like us. It isn’t a kiss, but it’s close.

    Almost as soon as they’re born, dogs experience the soft warmth of their mothers’ tongue, which bathes them with maternal affection. The licking never really stops after that. Mothers take advantage of their puppies’ relative immobility during nursing to lick them clean. They also lick their bottoms to jump-start their impulses to relieve themselves.

    Puppies do their share of licking too. They lick older dogs’ chins and faces to greet them and show respect. And when they’re hungry – and puppies are perpetually in search of something to eat – licking their mother will sometimes stimulate her to regurgitate a meal, which the puppies regard as an appetizing lunch.

    As dogs get older, they lick each other less often, but they never quit entirely. At the very least, in the absence of hands and hairbrushes, they do each other’s hair with their tongues.

    A Show Of Respect

    Dogs don’t lick people because they’re hoping for a hot meal. They lick because we’re their parents, or at least the head folks in the house. Even when dogs are old, gray, and grizzled, they see themselves in some ways as being our children, and a lick shows how much they respect us.

    You can tell a little bit about your dog’s personality by how much licking she does. Dogs who are very bold or independent are restrained with their licking because they don’t feel as though there is anyone they have to win over. Outgoing, sociable dogs, on the other hand, lick everyone all the time.

    We play a role in all this licking too. It doesn’t take dogs very long to learn that laying a wet one on the cheek is a great way to get cooed over and rubbed the right way. So in a way, the instinct to lick is both ancient and immediate; dogs do it naturally, and we en- courage them to do it more.

    People are never sure how to react to licks. The first emotion is generally “Aw, that’s cute,” closely followed by “Yuck.” Imagine where that tongue has been! But it’s not as unhygienic as it seems. At worst, dog licks are like wiping your face with a slightly dirty washcloth. Not exactly cleansing, but hardly worth worrying about. In fact, there’s some evidence that it may be good for you.

    So whilst a dog lick on the face might not be to everyone’s taste, judging by the millions and millions of dog owners who’ve received a dog lick to the chops, it’s not going to kill you (or your children!).

  • Tips For Moving Home With a Dog

    Tips For Moving Home With a Dog

    Moving house is one of the most stressful experiences known to man and, unless a pet’s individual needs are considered, it can be a testing time for them too.

    A new home environment means new territory, new smells and probably new neighbours, and all of this can be unsettling for an animal, quite aside from the journey from one property to another.

    People move house more often nowadays. Here are a few hints and tips moving success for dog owners:

    · Make sure your dog is identifiable in case it gets lost en-route or before it has settled into its new home. Dogs, cats and many other animals, including birds, can be microchipped. Dogs, even if microchipped, should always wear a collar and identity tag with the owner’s name, and address clearly marked on it when in a public place.

    · In the days before the move, keep to your dog’s usual routine as much as possible.

    · Keep dogs in a quiet room with their bedding and favourite toys while your belongings are taken out of the house. Secure the door and hang a “Do not open – pets in here” sign.

    · Talk to your vet about ways to make the journey less stressful for dogs who suffer from severe travel sickness or anxiety in a car. NEVER leave pets of any kind in a car as the car can quickly become very hot.

    · Don’t pack all of your dog’s food in the removals van. If it’s a long journey, you may need to stop and feed it. Schedule in walks on the lead for your dog en route. Make sure that plenty of water is available for your pet at all times.

    · When moving a small dog, use a secure basket. Leave the carrier around for a few days before your move, so the dog becomes used to the sight and smell of it. Put your dog inside the basket before the removal men arrive.

    · When in the car, secure larger dogs with a car safety harness and keep smaller dogs in a pet carrier securely fitted to the seat or in the foot-well. Do not put pet carriers in the removal van or the boot of your car and n ever let your dog put its head out of the car window.

    · As soon as you arrive at your new home put your dog in a secure and quiet room with their familiar bedding and toys, and provide them with food and water. It’s important to establish a routine so before you move in, work out where your dog’s feeding station will be and if your dog is used to eating from wall mounted bowls or a dog bowl holder, make sure they’re in place ready to begin your new adventure.

    · Keep dogs on a lead when you take them out in the garden for the first few days and check your boundary fencing to make sure that it is secure and free from any gaps before letting your dog run free.

    · As you settle in to your new home, remember to walk your dogs regularly to help them adjust to their new surroundings. Give your dog sufficient, but not excessive, amounts of food and attention. A regular routine will help during the adjustment period and small frequent meals will give you more contact with them in the first few weeks, helping them relax.

    · If you wish to move your dog overseas, contact worldwide pet relocation specialists. Inform your removals company well in advance. For more information, it is also worthwhile contacting DEFRA for advice on the latest laws and regulations.

  • How Can I Become a Dog Trainer?

    How Can I Become a Dog Trainer?

    If you haven’t yet had the chance, we highly recommend you have  a look at K9Magazine.com’s – How to become a dog trainer – feature.

    Reason?

    Well, if this site  is anything to go by, lots of people are interesting in learning what it takes to become a professional dog trainer so it appears to be quite the popular question from dog lovers keen to pursue what is for many, a dream job working with dogs.

    Extract:

    The best way to become a dog trainer is to observe how people are trained by the best trainers and to do some yourself.

    Dog training courses will help you consider things like plans, structures,

    You also need to decide WHAT exactly you want to do and how to achieve it.

    Dog training is less about dogs and more about people, training dogs is simple, demonstrating to others the best methods to employ for the required results is not quite so straightforward as few attendees have dog training as their sole agenda when they come to classes.

    Read the article in full: How to Become a Dog Trainer

    Also worth a look if you’re keen on a dog training career or looking for a job working with animals – check this out.

  • What To Do If Your Dog Goes Missing Abroad

    It’s probably happened to all of us once. You notice the back gate flapping suspiciously in the wind and your heart rate doubles. You check under the beds, behind the settee, even in between the car and the garage wall, and just as you are about to panic you the spot him bounding bashfully back with ‘that’ look on his face.

    He couldn’t have been gone for more than five minutes. A lucky escape you may think, and you promise yourself you will fix the latch on the gate, but your curious friend doesn’t have a clue about the highway code, or the perils of big, sheers drops, he was just having a nosey about the neighbourhood.

    More often than not these incidents, although undesirable, have a happy ending. This is often due to helpful neighbours mucking in with the search, familiar locations for dogs to navigate with and ease of communication. Take all of these factors away and it could all turn out very differently.

    With the popularity of the Pet Passport Scheme, more and more people are able to holiday abroad with their dog for company, so by definition, it is a possibility that our dogs could do the dreaded disappearing act as a far away as Italy or Spain.

    The most popular places for people to holiday with their pets are often rural and are often within the UK. If you holiday in Wales for example, and you have the misfortune of losing your dog, you will not necessarily be at as much of a loss as you would be if you were in rural Italy or France. For a start you would have a common language and you would be familiar the law. The initial panic that would set in would be lessened slightly by your ability to communicate your problem to someone, in a country with a language that you don’t speak; your predicament will only be intensified by your inability to communicate your problem.

    If you are travelling on holiday, the best ways to ensure that if you lose your pet you can get them back are as follows:
    have your pet fitted with a microchip. This is compulsory if travelling under the Pet Travel Scheme abroad;
    whilst travelling abroad your pet should wear a collar containing details of:
    a United Kingdom address; and
    a United Kingdom telephone number; and
    a contact point within the country in which you are travelling.

    If your pet is lost whilst travelling you should notify the local police and make enquiries with local vets

    Rule 1. Make sure you are taking your dog on a holiday that is suited to him. Ensure it is a holiday that allows you to keep an eye on your dog, and one that allows you to keep him from boredom, the main reason that dogs go walkabouts by themselves.

    Prevention is the key here, once your dog is out of your sight, you cannot control his fate, nor can you control his actions. Ensure that when out in public, the dog is always on leash (this is demanded by law in many popular holiday resorts) and when he is alone it is imperative that he is secure. This does not just mean locking the hotel door behind you as you leave to play beach volleyball, a careless cleaner or porter could make it all too easy for your dog to escape. If you do leave your dog on the premises, give instructions to all who may have contact with the dog to ensure he is secure before they leave.

    Rule 2. Take all practical steps to ensure that it is not made easy or tempting for the dog to wander off.

    If you provide the dog with the option of going off alone for a stroll, he may well just do that. If it is not a viable option, the thought won’t enter his head. Not many dogs ‘escape’ in the sense that they have tried to get out of a property or garden, more often it is an opportunity offered to them on a plate, such as an open door or slack lead loosely tied to a lamp post (opposite a butcher’s perhaps).

    No matter how careful a dog owner is, there is always an element of misfortune involved in a missing dog holiday saga.

    If fate and destiny conspire together and you still find yourself on holiday minus your dog, there are a few things that you should have done before you left home just in case. Tim hall of pet exports, (www.petexports.co.uk) offered these pieces of advice.

    1.Take a recent photo with you. Descriptive words in a foreign language are often hard to come by in times of panic, and not everybody knows what a Dandy Dinmont Terrier looks like.
    2.Change the ID tag on the collar before you leave. Even if someone does find your dog wandering the Costa Brava, they won’t know where to start if the only information available is ‘If lost please return to 34 Bloom Street, South Shields or phone 821 445’. Put the address and phone number of the hotel at which you are staying, and remember to put any instructions in the right language. You should always leave the UK address on there as well, in case you have to leave the country without your dog.
    3.Be aware that different countries have different attitudes towards dogs roaming freely. The Spanish have a particular dislike for stray dogs, your dog will look like just another stray, so for a busy Spaniard to make the journey across Marbella with your beloved Deerhound is expecting an awful lot.
    4.Know who to contact. The local police station is a good start. Perhaps straight after that you should contact the council and any kennels near by. Do not contact the British Embassy or the consulate; to be frank they have bigger fish to fry than your lost dog, such as terrorism and international relations.
    5.Tim’s strongest recommendation is this. Don’t take him off his lead or let him out of sight.

    Take a recent photo with you. Descriptive words in a foreign language are often hard to come by in times of panic, and not everybody knows what a Dandy Dinmont Terrier looks like.

    You may know how to ask for a cappuccino in Milan and a baguette in Paris but do you know how to ask for a Doberman in Dortmund or a Rottweiler in Rotterdam. We have taken the languages spoken in the most popular holiday resorts in Europe and provided useful translations of helpful ‘lost dog in Europe’ phrases.

    En Francais.

    Excuse me, have you seen this dog roaming freely?
    M’excusez-vous, avez-vous vu ce chien errer librement?

    Do you know the way to the nearest kennels?
    Vous savez le chemin vers les établissements les plus proches?

    I wish to report my dog missing.
    Je voulais rapporter mes disparus de chien.

    He is a big/small/medium dog with long/short hair of dark/light colour. His/her name is Dotty.
    Il/elle est un grand/petit/moyen chien avec de cheveux longs/courts de couleur légère/foncée. Il/elle s’appelle Dotty.

    Thank you so much. Where can I pick him up? I owe you big style pal.
    Merci tellement. Où peux-je le prendre? Je vous dois le grand modèle mon amis.

    Italiano.

    Excuse me, have you seen this dog roaming freely?
    Lo scusate, avete visto questo cane vagare liberamente?

    Do you know the way to the nearest kennels?
    Conoscete il senso al canile più vicino?

    I wish to report my dog missing.
    Desidero segnalare i miei missing del cane.

    He is a big/small/medium dog with long/short hair of dark/light colour. His/her name is Dotty.
    È un cane piccolo/medio/grande con capelli corti/lunghi di colore chiaro/scuro. Suo il suo nome è dotty.

    Thank you so much. Where can I pick him up? I owe you big style pal.
    Grazie così tanto. Dove posso prenderlo? Vi devo lo stile grande mia compagno.

    en español

    Excuse me, have you seen this dog roaming freely?
    ¿Me excusa, usted ha visto este perro el vagar libremente?

    Do you know the way to the nearest kennels?
    ¿Usted sabe la manera a las perreras más cercanas?

    I wish to report my dog missing.
    Deseo divulgar a mis desaparecidos del perro.

    He is a big/small/medium dog with long/short hair of dark/light colour. His/her name is Dotty.
    Él es un perro grande/pequeño/medio grande con el pelo corto/largo del color ligero/oscuro. El suyo su nombre es dotty.

    Thank you so much. Where can I pick him up? I owe you big style pal.
    Muchas Gracias. ¿Dónde puedo tomarlo? Le debo estilo grande mi amigo.